Top and Tilt debacle...A pictorial guide on how to shoot ones self in the foot (Part 1)

[TheOldHokie]

You can use the valve you have.
You put it at an angle to the cylinder.
So 90's off the ports the 90 back to the pivot valve.

And yes I failed art class!

View attachment 104534

I don't think Mr Euclid can fit a 4 inch block and 4.5" port spacing into that geometry.

Dan

 

[#40Fan]

Was it supposed to be cheaper to make them versus ordering a cylinder with them already attached?

 

[cthomas]

It's a build it and they will come kind of project.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

ok, possible bodge ,based upon pix in #22 post

left port of cylinder....90*ftg pointing up, connects to 90*ftg,facing right ,now parallel to cylinder connects to left end valve

right port... 90*ftg points right (towards welded 'arm' with c-clamp', connect to 2nd 90* fitting, pointing up
that fitting connects to 3rd 90*fitting that connects to right end of valve

The sad thing is I could plumb this in 15 minutes in the garage, after 35 years I've collected a lot of 'fittings'..

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Was it supposed to be cheaper to make them versus ordering a cylinder with them already attached?

Nope. I just 'screwed the pooch' when I ordered them.

It's a build it and they will come kind of project.

Probably more of a "pride" thing at this point.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

One quick look but I think that valve is designed to bolt to a flange not hoses. Better double check the technical docs

I just got back from errands and had a longer look. My initial thoughtscare correct - that valve is meant for surface mounting which provokes an interesting thought. It would be very easy to make an aluminum subplate with bottom side ports to bolt to your cylinder with banjo bolts and top side ports to match the valve.....

Dan

View attachment 104542

Dan, I would prefer not to have to make a sub-plate.

What makes it a "surface mount" style?

I am presuming/guessing it is because it has the holes for mounting?

 

[Runs With Scissors]

ok, possible bodge ,based upon pix in #22 post

left port of cylinder....90*ftg pointing up, connects to 90*ftg,facing right ,now parallel to cylinder connects to left end valve

right port... 90*ftg points right (towards welded 'arm' with c-clamp', connect to 2nd 90* fitting, pointing up
that fitting connects to 3rd 90*fitting that connects to right end of valve

The sad thing is I could plumb this in 15 minutes in the garage, after 35 years I've collected a lot of 'fittings'..

Something like that is brewing in my mind too. Hmmm....

 

[Runs With Scissors]

You can use the valve you have.
You put it at an angle to the cylinder.
So 90's off the ports the 90 back to the pivot valve.

And yes I failed art class!

View attachment 104534

I might be able to do this with a smaller DPOCV.

I kind of tried it already with the ones I have, and since I boogered one up, I'm looing for a smaller one to replace it with.

I'm not sure what is wrong with my Google-Fu, but probably 70% of the places I click on for these parts are "over the pond" somewhere.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan, I would prefer not to have to make a sub-plate.

What makes it a "surface mount" style?

I am presuming/guessing it is because it has the holes for mounting?

They are listed as "gasket mount". Look caregully at the drawing. The cylinder ports are not threaded. They seal with o-rings located in a counterbore which must be clamped agsinst a flat surface - e.g face seal. Same arrangement used in CETOP solenoid vakves.

Probably a surplus OEM item designed for a specific application that Burden picked up dirt cheap - hence the price..

Dan

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Look caregully at the drawing. The cylinder ports are not threaded. They seal with o-rings located in a counterbore which must be clamped agsinst a flat surface - e.g face seal. Same arrangement used in CETOP solenoid vakves.

Probably a surplus OEM item designed for a specific application that Burden picked up dirt cheap - hence the price..

Dan

Well Hells Bells Dan, thanks for pointing that out. I had no idea.

The search continues.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well Hells Bells Dan, thanks for pointing that out. I had no idea.

The search continues.

Burden still sells OEM surplus components in addition to standard stock items hence their name and you have to be watchfull.

Look at my subplate drawing. Its compact, solid, neat, and pretty easy and cheap to make.

Dan

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Ok fella's, attached are screen shots of the parts I am thinking of ordering to complete the top cylinder with the one remaining CV I have.

The one question I have is; Since I have a 1/2" od tube going to my CV, will the 1/2" Convert-a-Flare components I am ordering work with the 3/8 JIC flare end of the banjo adaptor I have on the list?

Oh, and does it make any difference between copper and aluminum crush washers? My first inclination would be to get the copper one, as that is all I have ever used in automotive applications.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok fella's, attached are screen shots of the parts I am thinking of ordering to complete the top cylinder with the one remaining CV I have.

The one question I have is; Since I have a 1/2" od tube going to my CV, will the 1/2" Convert-a-Flare components I am ordering work with the 3/8 JIC flare end of the banjo adaptor I have on the list?

Oh, and does it make any difference between copper and aluminum crush washers? My first inclination would be to get the copper one, as that is all I have ever used in automotive applications.

View attachment 106013

View attachment 106014

View attachment 106015

The -08 convert-a-flare tube nut and sleeve will only work with male JIC-8 fittings. To use the JIC-6 banjo you need to convert it to JIC-8 with something like this:

2406-06-08 | 3/8" JIC Female x 1/2" JIC Male

Check out the deal on 2406-06-08 | 3/8" JIC Female x 1/2" JIC Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Dan

 

[Runs With Scissors]

OK, so here is what I have so far, I have the Banjo fittings and bolts with washers.

The Banjo fitting looks to be smaller than I anticipated but we will see, when the other parts get here.

It also appears (at least to me) that the sealing surface will need a little attention.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

So I decide to make a "non marring" scraping tool to quicken things up.

I swear that I had an old scraper that I made from a scrape piece of phenolic way back in the day, but I can't find it.

So I decide to make something real quick just to get the big stuff off.

To the band saw!!!

2 seconds later, we have a makeshift scraper.

Well it didn't do a damn thing.


Now I decide to go "old school' and make a sanding block from a scrape piece of aluminum I have lying around.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I started off with some 400 grit, but that was clogging up too fast and would have taken a thousand centuries.

So I stepped it up to 120

And ever so carefully, I worked that sanding block, trying to keep it level.

after about 10 minutes, I'm creeping up on it.

Now I decide to switch back to the 400. (I don't have anything in-between)

My gut tells me that those imperfections are gonna come back to haunt me, so I keep going.

I think this will be good to go.

I tried to kind of make a "swirling pattern" to avoid any sanding marks that point directly outward and thus leak.

You can kind of see at the top of the pic, there is still some paint due to a recess on the outer edge. I hope that is not problematic. I decide to leave it alone, cause I don't want to take too much off.

The other one was not as bad as this one, so just "rinse and repeat"


If you have read this far, I suppose the saying "In for a penny, in for a pound" is applicable.

Part 2 is linked below.....

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...-to-shoot-ones-self-in-the-foot-part-2.64941/

 

[woodman55]

Seeing things that should have been done is much easier to see after it's been done!

Ain't that the truth, been there done that TOO many times.

 

[animals45]

Just remember experience is something ya don't have til the day after ya need it .

animals45