To 4WD or Not To 4WD

jyoutz

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We are so tired of concrete cracking, main reason plus cost for rock drive idea. Everybody has always said to me, ' The only thing certain about concrete is its certainly going to crack".
True, and asphalt is a perpetual maintenance headache. One that’s hard for DIY. Gravel is easy to maintain with a blade.
 

HVACRoger

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True, and asphalt is a perpetual maintenance headache. One that’s hard for DIY. Gravel is easy to maintain with a blade.
So true!!
I believe my Mom had a close family friend that lived near your area but can't think of the city/town. He owned a large pecan grove I was told, was a trucker also.
 

jyoutz

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So true!!
I believe my Mom had a close family friend that lived near your area but can't think of the city/town. He owned a large pecan grove I was told, was a trucker also.
I live in the northern half of the state (Great Plains/Rocky Mountains). If he had a pecan grove he was in the warmer southern part of the state, probably in the Rio Grande or Pecos river valleys.
 

RCW

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Roger - - good luck with your project. Many of us can appreciate keeping “peace in the valley..”

Here’s my last couple driveway re-works.

I always work up the base with my box blade. Then, re-grade as needed

Not sure what this stone is, but it’s not what I expected when I ordered it. Much smaller than anticipated. The error here was my own.

F286DDE4-83DC-4C65-883F-F1006AE0092A.jpeg


B05D9A21-1128-495A-812B-1F19C7446E0B.jpeg


This is crusher run last year. We obviously have a slope. Road is downhill to right, similar to your house. I have noticed some of the fines washing out of it.



96456C85-B873-4FE7-9F1B-146B4EF25165.jpeg
 
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HVACRoger

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Roger - - good luck with your project. Many of us can appreciate keeping “peace in the valley..”

Here’s my last couple driveway re-works.

I always work up the base with my box blade. Then, re-grade as needed

Not sure what this stone is, but it’s not what I expected when I ordered it. Much smaller than anticipated. The error here was my own.

View attachment 73302

View attachment 73300

This is crusher run last year. We obviously have a slope. Road is downhill to right, similar to your house. I have noticed some of the fines washing out of it.



View attachment 73301
It looks good!! I will keep an update on how things go. Wife said she will shoot a couple video’s and pictures as we progress to post here.
 
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RCW

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It looks good!! I will keep an update on how things go. Wife said she will shoot a couple video’s and pictures as we progress to post here.
Look forward to it.

I always used a washed stone, as the grade would wash fines out. Thinking that more for your house than the garage/shop.
 

HVACRoger

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Look forward to it.

I always used a washed stone, as the grade would wash fines out. Thinking that more for your house than the garage/shop.
I never got into the different types fo stone, rocks, etc. because I always contracted the work out and took what I was told I needed. I just took my 63 Ford 2000 and drug the drives. The drive in front of the house is a half circle. Where you see the truck are two live springs that are piped underground to the ditch by my sign. My contractor did all this work around 1994, he passed last year. Maintenance is now due so hoping I can handle the work. With the help from you guy in this forum I think I can.
 

RCW

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Hey - - that 63 Ford 2000 is modern....great tractor.

Mine's a '53, and no 3 point hitch. Started driving it at 6 or so. Magicman says it's an honorary Kubota. ;)

BB62842C-F299-4F85-BA38-E14EF89A76F7.jpeg


I never thought I would want a backhoe. Last couple years been looking at 100 little jobs around my place just like yours...

I still don't have a backhoe. Not that I can't upgrade, just haven't gotten there. When/if that happens, a backhoe will be attached to it.

I would likely upgrade from my BX2360 to a B2601. An LX is likely a little bigger than I want for mowing.

You'll do fine with your gear. ;)
 
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HVACRoger

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Hey - - that 63 Ford 2000 is modern....great tractor.

Mine's a '53, and no 3 point hitch. Started driving it at 6 or so. Magicman says it's an honorary Kubota. ;)

View attachment 73303

I never thought I would want a backhoe. Last couple years been looking at 100 little jobs around my place just like yours...

I still don't have a backhoe. Not that I can't upgrade, just haven't gotten there. When/if that happens, a backhoe will be attached to it.

I would likely upgrade from my BX2360 to a B2601. An LX is likely a little bigger than I want for mowing.

You'll do fine with your gear. ;)
I have seen many tractors like that, JD, Allis, Oliver, Ford but never MM, looks to be in excellent condition. Is that a PTO on the side just behind the loader? Also what is the round thing just behind it?
 

Weekender

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Since I'm not running in a swamp land like area didn't know if the task would require the 4WD. I think eipo & Borane4 on to something. You summed it up well!!
As noted above, there is no need not to if you need it. If the job requires alot of sharp turns than that could require you to jump in and out if 4WD and would be a real pain. As a general rule of thumb, I use 2WD when traveling long distances or if the job can get by without it simply because I don't want to have to think about how I'm turning. If I'm carrying large loads either on the front end or back end, I always use 4WD. If the ground is soft and graded, I will use 4WD then as well since it tends to avoid me tearing up the ground by slipping the back tires. I always use 4WD in my corn field.
 

RCW

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I have seen many tractors like that, JD, Allis, Oliver, Ford but never MM, looks to be in excellent condition. Is that a PTO on the side just behind the loader? Also what is the round thing just behind it?
Roger -

The first cover is over what could be a belt pulley.

I believe that correct, but this tractor never had one on it. I think the loader precluded the belt pulley.
We had other tractors with pulleys in the same spot.
The cover behind that is the wheel brake.
 

HVACRoger

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As noted above, there is no need not to if you need it. If the job requires alot of sharp turns than that could require you to jump in and out if 4WD and would be a real pain. As a general rule of thumb, I use 2WD when traveling long distances or if the job can get by without it simply because I don't want to have to think about how I'm turning. If I'm carrying large loads either on the front end or back end, I always use 4WD. If the ground is soft and graded, I will use 4WD then as well since it tends to avoid me tearing up the ground by slipping the back tires. I always use 4WD in my corn field.
Thanks for the advise!
 

HVACRoger

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Roger -

The first cover is over what could be a belt pulley.

I believe that correct, but this tractor never had one on it. I think the loader precluded the belt pulley.
We had other tractors with pulleys in the same spot.
The cover behind that is the wheel brake.
That wheel break caught my eye, just thought if that was a moving part might be something that would eat a pants leg.
 

Old_Paint

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Thats was my thinking but never have had a FEL or 4WD before. On solid ground but with that weight, a lot of turning, concerned me about the stress on front axle in 4WD. I know to the experienced this is probably dumb reaction on my part.
Why would you think that Kubota would put a loader on that tractor that the front axle cannot carry with the bucket fully loaded? 4WD isn't gonna hurt anything on unpaved surface other than chewing up the grass a little if you turn too sharp. I always use 4WD when pushing or pulling. Why risk spinning the tires? Spinning tires is for drifting, not tractoring. The front wheels, tires, and axle ratio are all designed so that the front end is trying to outrun the back end just a little. That's how it actually helps the rear tires. Not by enough so that it's constantly digging, but if you run 4WD on pavement a lot, you'll start to see accelerated wear on the front tires. Rule of thumb, if you're working on dirt, 4WD. IF you're cutting grass, or on pavement, 2WD. Gravel is just very grainy dirt.

Looking at that photo, I'd have had the drive done at the same time as the new slab for the garage. As flat as that is, it would have been simple to set the forms and do the grading and prep work yourself. That would have knocked out a big portion of the cost. It dropped the price of my slab for my shop from as high as $15K down to $3300. Plus, the lumber that I did the forms with was mine to repurpose in the shop construction. I'm a stingy tightwad, and it's more about saving the money, but if I don't have to spend more on structural lumber, that's eco-friendly too.

You're completely right to worry about gravel/sand on the tires on a sealed floor. That makes me wonder about the futility of putting an epoxy coating on that floor with a gravel drive approaching it. Concrete makes a lot more sense, especially if you want a squeaky clean garage floor. You cannot stop sand/dirt/rocks from coming in with your cars with anything other than a paved or concrete drive. Even then, you're going to get some sand/mud. Traction is what your tires are for, and better traction means they can hold bigger rocks. The tires on my truck (BF Goodrich All-Terrain) will pick up #47 gravel. Don't get too close behind me.
 

Biker1mike

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The old man graded and back bladed his gravel driveway in 2WD because that is all he had. I use my little front plow blade to back blade my gravel/dirt in 4WD because that is what I have and it works .
I mow my hill in 4WD as it is close to 30 degrees and 2WD has a real problem with that.
 

HVACRoger

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Why would you think that Kubota would put a loader on that tractor that the front axle cannot carry with the bucket fully loaded? 4WD isn't gonna hurt anything on unpaved surface other than chewing up the grass a little if you turn too sharp. I always use 4WD when pushing or pulling. Why risk spinning the tires? Spinning tires is for drifting, not tractoring. The front wheels, tires, and axle ratio are all designed so that the front end is trying to outrun the back end just a little. That's how it actually helps the rear tires. Not by enough so that it's constantly digging, but if you run 4WD on pavement a lot, you'll start to see accelerated wear on the front tires. Rule of thumb, if you're working on dirt, 4WD. IF you're cutting grass, or on pavement, 2WD. Gravel is just very grainy dirt.

Looking at that photo, I'd have had the drive done at the same time as the new slab for the garage. As flat as that is, it would have been simple to set the forms and do the grading and prep work yourself. That would have knocked out a big portion of the cost. It dropped the price of my slab for my shop from as high as $15K down to $3300. Plus, the lumber that I did the forms with was mine to repurpose in the shop construction. I'm a stingy tightwad, and it's more about saving the money, but if I don't have to spend more on structural lumber, that's eco-friendly too.

You're completely right to worry about gravel/sand on the tires on a sealed floor. That makes me wonder about the futility of putting an epoxy coating on that floor with a gravel drive approaching it. Concrete makes a lot more sense, especially if you want a squeaky clean garage floor. You cannot stop sand/dirt/rocks from coming in with your cars with anything other than a paved or concrete drive. Even then, you're going to get some sand/mud. Traction is what your tires are for, and better traction means they can hold bigger rocks. The tires on my truck (BF Goodrich All-Terrain) will pick up #47 gravel. Don't get too close behind me.
I have recieved, like yours, great advice pertaining to the use of the 4wd. I have had 4wd trucks for a long time, I am familiar with not driving them in 4wd on highway(without snow, etc.) and what sharpe turns do to them in that situation. I have been using a 60 year old tractor, no 4wd, for past 15+ years for minor duties such as gardening, dragging 300’ of driveway. I have a new tractor with 1 hour on it, unlike anything I have ever owned, so thought it to be wise to ask / present what I want to do with it for this project. Inexperience can be dangerous to self or equipment, so I try to be educated, not afraid to admit my weaknesses. I don’t consider myself dumb but may be perceived that way by some of my questions. Had a teacher in community college that always said “The only dumb questions are the ones not asked”. Did I think Kubota would put an axle, gears, 4wd on that tractor with a loader that couldn’t handle its intended purpose? NO! I do know there are intended procedures Kubota expects you to follow. I can read their owner manual, videos, which will not cover all situations. I much rather get my eduction from the folks on this site that have been there, done that, If they are willing to offer just as your self. Your knowledge is invaluable. As to the drive, we had 2 estimates to redo it before the economic boom (Thank you President Trump) both were in the $5k range including removal of old concrete. Landfill is 10 miles from our location. Contractor that poured our pad was asked to estimate doing the driveway before pouring pad. He stated his work was backed up so badly he would come back later and do the drive. He never contacted us, so I called to ask for the estimate and how back logged he was now. That’s the $17k estimate and was ready to start next day. I took it he is still backed logged with work, really didn’t want to mess with it at a reasonable price. Again, educated here on gravel, have had so many doors opened to materials. Looking at #57 to #67, supposed to take wife to meet hopefully next weekend with stone supplier, she can see the opinions. Sorry for the ramble, hell you may not even be reading it at this point!
 

DDCD

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That's nuts on the rock pricing. I was getting ripped off until I found an honest hauler that gives me 18 tons for $240. He paid $7/ton for crusher run and showed me the receipt. So he made about $100 to haul five miles. I'm not sure how it works where you are at but all of our haulers are independent from the quarries. I found my guy on Facebook. If they can sense you are a rock noobie you will get ripped off. I did.
 

HVACRoger

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That's nuts on the rock pricing. I was getting ripped off until I found an honest hauler that gives me 18 tons for $240. He paid $7/ton for crusher run and showed me the receipt. So he made about $100 to haul five miles. I'm not sure how it works where you are at but all of our haulers are independent from the quarries. I found my guy on Facebook. If they can sense you are a rock noobie you will get ripped off. I did.
Quarry spokeslady said all their haulers are independent owners but they paid them $180 for a delivery of my distance. I think NCL4701 nailed the issue in NC in an earlier post. With all these cost increases, I guess I can take solace in the fact that my house has increased in value nearly 300% since I purchased it in 09
 

RCW

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That wheel break caught my eye, just thought if that was a moving part might be something that would eat a pants leg.
Had a bunch of my wife’s running friends here a while back for a cookout.

Two men were enamored with the Moline. One has a brand new Kubota BX23S. Neither are tractor guys. I appreciated their honest interest in my tractor. They were perplexed by the hand clutch and wheel brakes. The narrow front end was of interest too .

They both seemed astounded by the lack of safety features. I literally told them machinery of the era wouldn’t allow second chances; they can and will maim or kill you on the first opportunity. Deserve respect and understanding…..😉

I had many friends and community members that didn’t get that second chance…..
 

HVACRoger

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Had a bunch of my wife’s running friends here a while back for a cookout.

Two men were enamored with the Moline. One has a brand new Kubota BX23S. Neither are tractor guys. I appreciated their honest interest in my tractor. They were perplexed by the hand clutch and wheel brakes. The narrow front end was of interest too .

They both seemed astounded by the lack of safety features. I literally told them machinery of the era wouldn’t allow second chances; they can and will maim or kill you on the first opportunity. Deserve respect and understanding…..😉

I had many friends and community members that didn’t get that second chance…..
My grandpa’s were very poor small farmers, one passed just shortly after I was born and the other passed when I was 15. One had 28 acres and other 30 acres. Mostly tobacco, corn and cotton. I believe to this day had they not passed when I was so young I would be farming today but there is a lot of back story. I have the utmost respect for the farming community. My Dad tried it a couple years but said to hell with it, couldn’t make money. His last year we had a horrible drought (mid 60’s) said after harvest of crops and paying all bills he made $75 for all his hard work. He went to the city got a job as an electrician spent many of his years working in the shipyards in Norfolk. He supported his mother, 2 sisters , and 2 kids. Anyway, he had a single head corn picker that I was amused with, can’t remember brand it was orange. I was intrigued with all the exposed sprockets, chains, belts, etc.. I drove him crazy trying to keep me away from it. My uncle bought the farm years ago, that picker was still sitting under a dilapidated tobacco barn shelter Under large vines that had grown through it. I begged my wife to no avail to let me salvage it and put in our back yard for lawn art. Uncle dug a hugh hole bulldozed barn in it and pushed picker in the woods. I haven’t been there since this was done but my Dad said he probably torn it up badly.
 
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