Third B7100 clutch in 4 years!?!?

[Vigo]

The braces in the very middle of the B2 19 subframe that go up to the trans tunnel box are a pretty thin piece of metal that you could easily add yourself to whatever existing subframe you have. it sounds to me like you have a pretty darn good starting point. Post some pictures if you get a chance.

 

[trial and error]

The braces in the very middle of the B2 19 subframe that go up to the trans tunnel box are a pretty thin piece of metal that you could easily add yourself to whatever existing subframe you have. it sounds to me like you have a pretty darn good starting point. Post some pictures if you get a chance.

Below are some pictures I took of the existing kibota b7100 snow plow subframe with my reinforcement due to a few of the engine bolts being stripped out, the black metal carries the orange frames load up to the front "box frame/bumper" sorry for the picture quality I will try and get some better ones in the next few days. I've also started to "mock up" some of my planned loader framing using wood to mess with some of the angles, ordered 1 each of a 18 inch length and a 16 inch length hydro piston to start to figure the geometry for max lift as well as keeping some below grade digging ability. The 18" length is for the boom and the 16" for the curl I'll run 2 of each but right now I could only afford the 2 to start mocking things up, most of my steel should be arriving from Ohio by next weekend, it pays to have family out there where metal recycling yards are far more numerous and those yards prices are very reasonable. This going to be a pretty slow build as time and budget allow but once done I think it will quickly prove its usefulness even without power steeming

Ps my tractor is dirty and isn't going to win any beauty awards it gets used

 

[torch]

Looks like a good start on a subframe. I'd try to add some additional hangars between that frame and the tractor frame somewhere between the bell housing and the mid-point, just to be safe.

 

[Vigo]

So those side rail pieces, as far as i can tell from the pics, are the EXACT same pieces used in the b219 subframe. The differences i can see are that yours have the plow brackets hanging off the front, whereas the b219 subframe has a large angle iron welded across the bottom right under the steering gearbox/pedal area, basically where your 2x4 already is. The uprights bolt down to that large angle. There are diagonal braces from the top of that angle, up to some empty holes in the 'trans tunnel' right underneath the steering gearbox. Those holes have plastic plugs in them (if they haven't rotted away). There's also a slight difference in the diagonal bracing between the 2 side rails, but i would say you already have the entire 'hard part' made, to oem spec, because it's the same piece the oem used for the loader! You would just add the large angle across the bottom for the loader towers, and the diagonal pieces from that angle to the empty bolt holes in your tractor.. those pieces are maybe 1/8" thick 4x12" or so, with 2 simple 45 degree bends you could make in a vise or shop press. Can be seen in the pic Lil Foot posted:

So you're like 80% of the way to having a factory b219 subframe already.

 

[trial and error]

So those side rail pieces, as far as i can tell from the pics, are the EXACT same pieces used in the b219 subframe. The differences i can see are that yours have the plow brackets hanging off the front, whereas the b219 subframe has a large angle iron welded across the bottom right under the steering gearbox/pedal area, basically where your 2x4 already is. The uprights bolt down to that large angle. There are diagonal braces from the top of that angle, up to some empty holes in the 'trans tunnel' right underneath the steering gearbox. Those holes have plastic plugs in them (if they haven't rotted away). There's also a slight difference in the diagonal bracing between the 2 side rails, but i would say you already have the entire 'hard part' made, to oem spec, because it's the same piece the oem used for the loader! You would just add the large angle across the bottom for the loader towers, and the diagonal pieces from that angle to the empty bolt holes in your tractor.. those pieces are maybe 1/8" thick 4x12" or so, with 2 simple 45 degree bends you could make in a vise or shop press. Can be seen in the pic Lil Foot posted:
View attachment 96295

So you're like 80% of the way to having a factory b219 subframe already.

Thanks.Vigo, that is exactly the info I was looking for, the 2x4 in my photos will get replaced by a peice of rectangle tube reinforced with the angle brackets you mentioned, the angle brackets are the only peice of the puzzle I am missing, but based on you advice they shouldn't be too hard to fab up, they don't have to be super pretty just stout.
Since. my welder can't handle welding the rectangle tube to the plow subframe my plan is to weld some heavy duty 3"x3" angle iron to the rectangle tune then put 3 bolts through that to the plow frame, I'm not super thrilled about drilling holes in the frame but I think 6 1/2" bolts, 3 on each slide will be stronger then any weld my machine is capable of and I dont think a few 1/2" holes in the 3+inch wide frame rails are going to be a terrible idea. Feel free to tell me that's an awful idea and I'll come up with another plan but that will likely require me to remove the subframe and have it professionally welded at a shop and for my intents and purposes I hope that would be over kill, I plan to limit my lifting ability by limiting my rear ballast and yes I know everyone says "I'll go easy on the loader" but since this Is the only tractor I have and a replacement is out of budget I have to stick to it. Any thing I dont have to lift by hand with a shovel is a win even if it takes more trips then it should or could if I had a real tractor/loader

 

[Vigo]

I think it will work, but i would actually recommend only 2 bolts per side vs 3. The tensile strength of the bolts will be extremely high, so you should be more concerned about the amount of metal you remove from the main rail for said bolt holes, than having enough bolts! Just my .02 on that.

I have a Yeswelder 205DS which used to be about $370 (not sure now?) which i would absolutely weld that with, and there are probably some cheaper welders which could do it. But i see no big problem with the bolts either.

 

[trial and error]

I think it will work, but i would actually recommend only 2 bolts per side vs 3. The tensile strength of the bolts will be extremely high, so you should be more concerned about the amount of metal you remove from the main rail for said bolt holes, than having enough bolts! Just my .02 on that.

I have a Yeswelder 205DS which used to be about $370 (not sure now?) which i would absolutely weld that with, and there are probably some cheaper welders which could do it. But i see no big problem with the bolts either.

I think the two bolt thing is a good idea if I shear bolts that's an easy fix, if I shear the rail due to too many holes that's a much harder fix, if I had 220 ran from my garage I would be looking into a bigger "chineseium" welder or a stick welder but I'm limited to the 125amp flux core machine I have right now, until I find time and $ to run 220 to the garage approx 60 feet from the panel, I suppose I could use the genny to power a welder, but that's loud and obnoxious I like putting the cart before the horse

 

[trial and error]

I think the two bolt thing is a good idea if I shear bolts that's an easy fix, if I shear the rail due to too many holes that's a much harder fix, if I had 220 ran from my garage I would be looking into a bigger "chineseium" welder or a stick welder but I'm limited to the 125amp flux core machine I have right now, until I find time and $ to run 220 to the garage approx 60 feet from the panel, I suppose I could use the genny to power a welder, but that's loud and obnoxious I like putting the cart before the horse

I started my own thread so I can stop " hijacking"others it is below

Kubota b7100 FEL build on a budget

Yes, I know build and budget shouldn't really be in the same headline but my funds are pretty limited and im tired of not having a FEL on the ol gear drive b7100 which is already tapped for hydraulics and already has a (very) similar subframe to the b219 loader to which a full hydraulic plow...

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