My T1760 has become temperamental when it comes to starting. When I turn the key I can hear a click but often will not start. Sometimes I leave the ignition light on for a while , turn them off and come back a few minutes later and will start. Less of a problem if started daily. More of a problem if sits for a few days.
T1760 Rride-On Mower Irregular Starting
- Thread starter Azza
- Start date
Please clarify "will not start." Does the engine turn over but not fire or does it not turn over or CRANK.
Dave
Hi Dave, engine will not turn over. I turn key, there's a click sound and nothing happens. Other times it cranks and starts ok. Ray
OK, then you need to start with the basics.
Follow the battery ground cable to where it attaches to the tractor chassis.
Unbolt it and polish all mating surfaces. This is a common location for poor connections to develop.
Take a photo of the top of your battery and post it here.
Dave
Do not "polish" those surfaces, clean with sander paper or metal grinder. You want good metal to metal contact. Otherwise yes clean both battery posts and terminals, the ground strap to frame/engine, and the big cable at starter(being careful to not allow it to touch anything else(Or unhook battery, clean starter terminals, then clean battery terminals and then hook back up.
The battery is near new, kept clean including terminals, and fully charged via battery charger( which considerably prolongs battery life). I removed ground from engine block, cleaned block and cable end and refitted. Still not cranking and starting
Likely in the safety switch circuit. Easiest thing is to simply install a helper relay. I got sick of fighting all the PIA wiring and micro switches in the circuit trying to trace all the voltage drops. I installed a 40 amp helper relay that would switch on with as little as 7 or 8 Volts. Tractor fires up 1st time every time now
Generally on those, when I see that complaint (click-click-click-start), I am looking at the starter trigger wire--the smaller wire on the starter. You'll want to check it for voltage, with it still connected. Ideally you want to see battery voltage there when you turn the key to start. If it's lower than battery voltage and I suspect it is, probably a switch issue in one of the other safety switches. Also possibility that maybe there's an issue with the key switch. In the past, as a quick/cheap fix I've installed a #87 relay in the starter trigger, which boosts the voltage back up to battery voltage. This works well. You can make the connections yourself, or run to the JD dealer and pick up part number AM107421 (relay kit). The kit bolts right on.
Outnumbered
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L3901, FEL, BB1260, RCF2060, FDR2572, Titan Forks, Caryall, 5' Tiller
Years ago I had a Cub Cadet that was famous for this issue. I replace the start relay which was located under the battery support. Issue resolved! It cost about$15 for a new one then.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
John Deeres had the same problem, came out with a kit....
years ago, being 'frugal' I made my own SSR (Solid State Relay) for $2,even had an LED 'start' indicator,good for less than 4 volts through the various 'safety' switches.
You can replace all those safety switches with totally SEALED units, that'll electrically last forever.
years ago, being 'frugal' I made my own SSR (Solid State Relay) for $2,even had an LED 'start' indicator,good for less than 4 volts through the various 'safety' switches.
You can replace all those safety switches with totally SEALED units, that'll electrically last forever.
Obviously Outnumbered was not outsmarted
. Interesting that if I connect a battery charger for a couple of minutes it never fails to tart.GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Totally understandable, as you put a 'surface ' charge on the battery which raises the voltage to overcome the voltage drop between the battery and the starter relay.
If you measure the battery voltage just after you disconnect the charger it'll probably be 14.5-15 instead of the nominal 13.2 of a battery 'at rest'. This provides more than enough to overcome the 'pull in ' voltage needed for the starter relay to activate.
If you measure the battery voltage just after you disconnect the charger it'll probably be 14.5-15 instead of the nominal 13.2 of a battery 'at rest'. This provides more than enough to overcome the 'pull in ' voltage needed for the starter relay to activate.
From the various helpful comments it seems that all roads lead to the starter relay ?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
No, it's the things between the Battery and the starter relay that are the problem.
If you jumper the battery +12 directly to the starter relay coil, it'll work as designed every time.
If you jumper the battery +12 directly to the starter relay coil, it'll work as designed every time.
Yeah, and it's why I got tired of pulling connectors, searching for interlocks and pulling my hair out. And even with nearly all interlocks bypassed (except for the brake interlock) as that much is a given. Especially now that with all our cars you have to step on a pedal to start it. Now it's the brake pedal so on the tractor it's only second nature I simply apply the brake every time. As for worrying about the deck blades, since my routine at the end of a mow is I idle the engine back, disengage the deck, and raise it prior to putting away, then back in garage, drop deck to take strain off the lift cylinder. Idle a bit to cool down on hot days, turn off key, pull fuel cutoff knob it's done.