lmichael… I “get” what you are saying….and don’t dispute that synthetic lubricants have longer lives than conventionals…. BUT…. how long do you think the average owner lives…. or his equipment lives? Example: I had a ‘92 Jeep Cherokee with a straight six. I loved that car.Bottom line there is no valid reason to NOT use QUALITY synthetic lubricants. (Note QUALITY). Just slapping a synthetic label on Billy Bob's XXw-XX oil does not make it "quality" anymore than slapping "professional" or "commercial" on some POS appliance makes it "better". It's a sadly overused "buzzword".
However the benefits of it FAR outweigh the cost. Unless of course the engine (or equipment) the lubricant is going into is not worth it. I have been using synthetics like stated earlier since the early 70's when Mobil first introduced it. My engines have remained spotless internally and wear pretty much non existent. Actually I have yet to be able to "wear out" a vehicle/engine/transmission. Rust and corrosion thanks to our environment has always taken it's toll long before useful life due to wear was reached.
On my G2160 it's had synthetic all it's life (Amsoil) prior to me buying it. Right now it uses Shell Rotella T-6.
Yes conventional oils have gotten light years better than they once were as well, but good synthetics are light years better even than they are.
I did not continue with Amsoil only because it's hard to get and WAY more $$$$ than any possible benefit over a known great product like Rotella T6
I don't say this based only on "opinion" but on solid anecdotal and evidential experience over the course of close to 50 years experience using these products and working on MANY vehicles.
But bottom line everyone is free to do as they please. This is how "I please"
I don’t know about the relevance…but I run ordinary AeroShell 100W which is conventional oil. Full Synthetic oil was tried in aircraft reciprocating engines and it resulted in engine failures….because aviation gasoline contains “lead” and synthetic oil does not scavenge lead and certain other contaminates well. (MOBIL is who tried the full-synthetic aviation oil and lost million$ in the subsequent lawsuits. They pulled the product off the market. The only synthetic oils for aircraft reciprocating engines are “blends”…. and that makes absolutely Zero difference in oil change periods….I.E. no extended oil change is allowed due to that.)
Folks I am lucky! My neighbor of over 40 years just happens to be a senior petroleum engineer for over 45 years and he owns a Kubota. When I asked which oil I should be using in my tractor I got a lecture that was interesting but about 10,000 feet above my paygrade. Here are the takeaways from what I learned;
So he recommends a non-Kubota 15w40 in an area where temps go well below freezing and contrary to Kubota's guidelines.
But none of those oils he tested in the 50-60s are the same as what is currently available
Dan.... I can't speak to that because my oil question was focused on my area.... the midatlantic region. However your question is a good one.
My question was aimed at your area. Rising Sun is less than an hour from me - it gets too cold for a 15W oil.
My wife's BMW has an oil level warning system. When the light comes on it is a quart low. I will not tell her it is still safe to drive because if I do she will ignore it and let it get a lot lower. Better she thinks its an urgent situation and deals with it pronto.
Thats smart. I bought a used R1150 GS a few months ago. Its my second GS. I have been trying to work up the courage to remove the battery and put it on a tender for the winter. Its a quite involved process. Rides like magic carpet might. Delightful.
