Stump grinder build

[bmblank]

I see what looks like grinder marks! I'm gonna ignore the fact that it's probably just from removing paint BEFORE welding...

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[Yooper]

Damn dude, you need to teach welding classes- sign me up!
Keep it coming, really interesting thread.

I've probably taught a dozen people how to weld over the years and its fun to watch them progress and some turned into better welders than me!

 

[Yooper]

I see what looks like grinder marks! I'm gonna ignore the fact that it's probably just from removing paint BEFORE welding...

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Oh yes! Any weld likes clean metal, but TIG welding is not very forgiving with dirt. I used 309 stainless filler rod on this.

 

[Yooper]

Got the 3PH main frame jetted out and formed along with the reinforcing cross member. Tacked it up and tried it on for size. Found the top link didn't have enough clearance, but that is an easy change. Over all, I'm pleased with the way it looks along with the OAH dimensions I just took a good guess at. Going to proceed with fitting up the cylinders for up and down and swing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How high off the ground are you able to lift the bottom of the frame?
And are the teeth going to extend even lower when it's done?
Flat ground it's not much of an issue but any hills, grades, or dips, it could leave you "high centered".

 

[cviola2005]

yeah, strictly a guess, but i'd say it needs about 4-6 inches cut off the bottom. Unless your 3ph can go up about 6-8 inches higher

 

[pacer]

Lift height on the 3ph jumped up and bit me on my grinder - got the impression they made the lift points on the grinder to be for 'multi-use' hitches, maybe a series 1 and 2. With the BX's small wheels the hitch wouldnt even lift it high enough, barely would clear on level ground. We fabricated 2 other lift points 4" down and 4" over from what the mfg had. I could've gone another inch lower easily...

 

[Yooper]

You guys might be right or the picture may be deceiving. Right now it's 10.5" from the floor to the bottom of the frame. The bottom 'teeth' plate will add another 2"- 3". My thinking was when the frame was planted on level ground, the bottom 3PH arms would be parallel. Right now without the bottom plate, the arms would be parallel. I'll post some pictures tomorrow from a better angle and your opinions would be very much appreciated!

 

[cviola2005]

OH! That explains it! You are right, the pic is very deceiving. I thought it was sitting on the floor.

In case I haven't said it yet, you do very very good work. I am very impressed.

 

[Yooper]

You guys got me thinking on this. Right now, the 3PH frame sits 10.5" off the ground, which is the lowest point of my tractor. (draw bar bracket) It might be advantageous to have the lowest point of the grinder equal to or above this height, thinking that there might be a situation where the best way to get to a stump would be to straddle it. What do you people think?


[In case I haven't said it yet, you do very very good work. I am very impressed.]
Thanks for the nice compliment, cviola!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My Opinion is higher is better, I like to see a least a foot of height.
Front wheels go up a grade and an attachment will closer to the ground in a quick hurry.

 

[cviola2005]

You guys got me thinking on this. Right now, the 3PH frame sits 10.5" off the ground, which is the lowest point of my tractor. (draw bar bracket) It might be advantageous to have the lowest point of the grinder equal to or above this height, thinking that there might be a situation where the best way to get to a stump would be to straddle it. What do you people think?

Here are my thoughts, what I would do to figure out the height dilemma:
(with nothing on 3ph)
1. lower 3ph to lowest setting, measure height to center of left pin hole.
2. raise 3ph to highest setting, measure height to center of left pin hole,
3. measure lowest part of tractor (drawbar, probably) to center of left pin hole.
4. compare those two measurements. Make it as high as possible while still allowing contact with ground while the 3ph bars still have about 3-4 inches to go before they are at their lowest.


Very good point, you may be in tight enough quarters somewhere that you might have to straddle a stump to get the grinder to it.

[In case I haven't said it yet, you do very very good work. I am very impressed.]
Thanks for the nice compliment, cviola!

You're welcome. Honestly, if I had your skills and a shop like your's, that would be my money maker!

 

[Yooper]

I decided to shorten the frame a few inches, so while I'm waiting for the new one to be cut out and formed, thought I'd take apart the swing cylinder and thread the end for a 3/4 rod end. First time ever taking a cylinder apart with the retainer clip that you 'roll' out of a slot. Was surprised at how slick this works! Wish I would have had the right spanner wrench, though. Two roll pins and large pliers did the work OK.
Chucked it in the 3 jaw with brass plates to protect the rod surface and threaded the end so it was a fairly tight fit to the rod end. Reassembled the cylinder,then cleaned the threads and used blue Loctite to thread the rod end on the cylinder.

 

[GEP]

This is going to be interesting to see what you do. I have a homemade one as well that was first built for using on the 3 pth of a MF 1655.I then made it fit and work on a MF GC 2300 on the snowblowers quick hitch . Of course I now have it set up to work on the front quick hitch of my Kubota BX. So I'am really interested to see what you do. I have some pics of it when it was first for a cat 0 3pth then when I made it fit onto the front of the Massey. Sorry no pics of it on the Kubota. BTW not sure what the angle gear box came from.

I would like to find out about the gearbox you are using Is there any way you could get info on it ? How bout the debris and wood chips do they come back on you ? It seams a large shield or guard would be good.

 

[Lil Foot]

I decided to shorten the frame a few inches, so while I'm waiting for the new one to be cut out and formed, thought I'd take apart the swing cylinder and thread the end for a 3/4 rod end. First time ever taking a cylinder apart with the retainer clip that you 'roll' out of a slot. Was surprised at how slick this works! Wish I would have had the right spanner wrench, though. Two roll pins and large pliers did the work OK.
Chucked it in the 3 jaw with brass plates to protect the rod surface and threaded the end so it was a fairly tight fit to the rod end. Reassembled the cylinder,then cleaned the threads and used blue Loctite to thread the rod end on the cylinder.

Nice work, as usual. So many people skip the simple things that improve the job tremendously, such as the brass plates. (one of my pet peeves is tool marks on parts- from jaws, pliers, channel locks, pipe wrenches, etc.)

 

[Yooper]

I would like to find out about the gearbox you are using Is there any way you could get info on it ? How bout the debris and wood chips do they come back on you ? It seams a large shield or guard would be good.

I bought the drive from Surplus Center. The image shows the type I have, not sure if that is the exact model number.

I plan on making a rubber skirt similar to the one in the image. I'll design it towards the end of the build.

 

[Yooper]

Working on the cylinder swivels here. Decided to machine the surfaces where the bearing will sit. Pretty easy operation that didn't take much time. When these are done it will be on to the main frame and start welding that up.

 

[Yooper]

Just putting the details on the swivels such as the grease fittings and pins.

 

[cviola2005]

2nd pic, right side swivel mount. The grease fitting on the swivel won't hit on that thing anywhere, will it? Looks tight

 

[Yooper]

2nd pic, right side swivel mount. The grease fitting on the swivel won't hit on that thing anywhere, will it? Looks tight

Good eye! It doesn't hit but it is close. I joked to myself that I'll know when the pins are worn when the fitting breaks off. Its on my list to put them back on the mill and recess them before final assembly.