Starter Solenoid wiring B7001D

[Viscount]

Thanks for welcoming me on board.

Have a small problem - well quite a large one really - with a B7001D acquired a couple of months ago with a flail mower to cut my paddocks. It had been working well, starting on first turn of the key and generally doing its' job well. Last weekend I used it for two hours cutting and put it away in a shed - all was well. Until I tried to start it again a couple of days later. Turn the key, oil pressure light up as normal, key to warm glow plugs and glow plugs warmed fine - turned to far right to engage starter and - zilch. Not even a flutter from the started solenoid. Lights working OK, indicators working OK, in fact all OK except apparently the connection to the starter motor solenoid.

Open bonnet (sorry, that's hood to you I believe as I'm on the other side of the pond ) and I find three disconnected wires laying there on the back of the panel. Honestly. Can only think that something vibrated free when I last used the tractor which didn't affect the running, but sure affected the starting. Two cables with female spade connectors one Blue and White and the other Red/Blue. Plus what looks like an Earth connector and a bolt hole that looks recently used. Now whilst I can find a bolt and put that back in place, I have no idea where the Blue/White and Red/Blue wires (which come out of the main loom bundle) connect to, as there no obvious place that they've come from.

I've attached a couple of pictures. If you have a B7001 could I ask that you have a look for me and let me know where these go please? Many thanks for your help.

John

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to the OTT forum John.

Kubota calls it a bonnet in their manuals. Must be some British influence somewhere.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Forget about the loose wires they are optional add on connection, for flashers, directional signals, and horn.

On that model there is only 3 places to check:
Off of the key switch is a White / Black wire that goes to the Clutch safety switch then on to the starter solenoid.

Use a simple test light, Turn the key to crank, and check for power:
Check at the Key switch at the White / Black wire.
Check both sides of clutch safety switch, with pedal in (with pedal out the will only be power on the in line).
Then with pedal in, check at the starter solenoid.

If you have power going to the starter solenoid, you have either a bad connection on a cable or the starter (bad ground), or a bad solenoid.

 

[Viscount]

Thank you very much for this guidance. Fortunately, being of an age where I used to run a VW Type 2 Bay Window, I have a 12v bulb and probe - about the most sophisticated measuring instrument that I possess.

Taking the spare wires out of the equation certainly helps.

However the White Black wire tested positive at the back of the key switch when moved to far right to crank (other end of lead to negative - on battery). It also tested positive, with the switch to crank, at the starter solenoid end of the cable, but worryingly whether or not the clutch was depressed indicating that the safety switch was either stuck or didn't exist. At that point my expertise evaporates; there is a fat black wire attached to the starter motor which runs back to the + battery terminal, plus a number of other wires, all secure and disappearing rearwards. Not sure how to check the grounding arrangements for the solenoid. Apart from returning to my dealer (who is a couple of hundred miles away :-(), any ideas of what I could do next please?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Jump from the large terminal on the starter to the small terminal (solenoid) and see if it will crank, Make sure it's in neutral.

 

[torch]

What year B7100? 4-bolt front rims or 6 bolt?

That will determine which service manual you want and the wiring diagrams are in the service manuals.

 

[85Hokie]

What year B7100? 4-bolt front rims or 6 bolt?

That will determine which service manual you want and the wiring diagrams are in the service manuals.

Torch --- he has the ol grey market ....7001D ....almost same as 7100 - alike in many ways (wiring probably same or close)

 

[85Hokie]

Viscount.....

NIW mentioned the clutch "switch"

I bought a "used" B7100 ....and got it home....

Went to start - dead stick!!! I called the guy - he had bypassed the clutch switch by joining the two wires together......they came loose, I joined them a little better and fired right up !!!!

Switch is right at the clutch pedal .....unplug both and plug them together and see IF anything changes.

 

[torch]

Torch --- he has the ol grey market ....7001D ....almost same as 7100 - alike in many ways (wiring probably same or close)

Oops, my bad. Just got off a 24 hour shift, guess I'm due for some sleep 'cause I read it as B7100.

From what I've read, the two are almost identical, so the last two pages of this manual should be pretty close to your wiring, if not identical:

http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...df&AutoIndex=96729f116459fcfee4d8931140980fcc

 

[Viscount]

Jump from the large terminal on the starter to the small terminal (solenoid) and see if it will crank, Make sure it's in neutral.

As it's still in warranty, I think I'll leave this to my dealer or his agent just in case physical damage could result. As my dealer is a couple of hundred miles away, I'm just trying to get a diagnosis or low risk simple fix if one exists, at the moment - your advice is valuable.

 

[torch]

As it's still in warranty,

Wait, what? They're still making those? Wow.

Or is this some sort of used vehicle warranty provided by the vendor or an insurance company?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What year B7100? 4-bolt front rims or 6 bolt?

That will determine which service manual you want and the wiring diagrams are in the service manuals.

I'll be posting some pictures that will make you scratch your head, I have a New Model B7100 with a New model front axle with 4 Bolt hubs.

 

[Viscount]

Wait, what? They're still making those? Wow.

Or is this some sort of used vehicle warranty provided by the vendor or an insurance company?

Used vehicle warranty provided by the vendor as he trades as a business - a guarantee is provided under English Law and the item has to be "fit for purpose".

 

[Viscount]

Well, further tests indicate that it's the starter motor that is at the root cause of this. Jumping direct off the battery, as suggested earlier, produced no response, but checks that full voltage was flowing down the solenoid trigger wire when the crank switch was closed were good. Battery is showing 12.77volts.

So new starter motor being couriered down to me for fitting next week. Being an absolute beginner (but learning fast!) my understanding is that this involves taking off the wires, undoing two mounting bolts at the back end, pulling off the old unit; then fitting the replacement by doing the same in reverse. Is this about right and anything to watch out for/hints and tips? Thanks.

 

[85Hokie]

JUST make sure you take your battery connections off first! I know - sounds simple, but I have seen many a person take a starter off while the battery is "hot" and turning that wrench creates a spark show if not extremely careful !

 

[Viscount]

JUST make sure you take your battery connections off first! I know - sounds simple, but I have seen many a person take a starter off while the battery is "hot" and turning that wrench creates a spark show if not extremely careful !

Got that one thanks!

 

[D2Cat]

Since you mentioned "an absolute beginner" another tip on removing the battery wires.

Remove the negative wire first. That way if your wrench touches another part of metal there will be so spark. If you remove the positive terminal first and your wrench touches some metal, you get a spark! When reinstalling put the negative on last.

Also, since you have the starter removed, take some emery paper and clean the surface area the starter bolts up to. There will probably be so light rust, etc there. This assures you get a good ground at the starter.

 

[Russell King]

Take pictures of the wiring BEFORE you begin and verify that it is the same after you have completed the swap.

Or mark them clearly before you remove them if you know what they connected to


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Viscount]

Take pictures of the wiring BEFORE you begin and verify that it is the same after you have completed the swap.

Or mark them clearly before you remove them if you know what they connected to


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Like this? Digital cameras are wonderful. In the old days you would have to wait two weeks before you could finish the job whilst you waited for the prints to arrive in the post!! The other thing that is wonderful - provided you can sift out the genuine material from the rubbish - is YouTube. Like having someone walk you through before you have a go yourself. Whatever did we do before the interwebby.......

 

[Viscount]

Thanks for all your help and advice on this one. The seller sent me a reconditioned Starter motor/solenoid assembly. I tested this and then fitted - and having rehearsed it well the fitting was even more straightforward than I could ever have imagined. Just rather glad that I still have a full socket set with extension bars to reach the mounting bolts.

Removed the old unit and found that the gears that engage with the flywheel (Bendix?) were jamming in the extended position. Fitted the recon unit and all is well.

Now ...... I have this tinkling sound coming off the front end......any ideas?