SSQA mod

[pokey1416]

One poster suggested connecting the levers together with chain. I bought orange chain at Lowe’s to do that but ended up using it on my BH stabilizers.

 

[nbryan]

Personally, I have never had an issue with them coming loose.

Great! I hope you are not caught by surprise like I was the other day. I ended up with a bent ssqa frame. As has another ott member mentioned here. We'll take care of it. I'm likely to post an update here with pics of my "hopeful" solution!

 

[nbryan]

One poster suggested connecting the levers together with chain. I bought orange chain at Lowe’s to do that but ended up using it on my BH stabilizers.

I thought of that. But the chain connection will only keep the bars from spreading apart. That allows the levers to rotate upwards well far enough to release the pins before the chain stops them spreading any further.
It has to be something that will pin them down, solidly. And soon, as once the temps moderate abit in a few days I'll be heading into the back 80 to clear that bush trail some more.
I'll carry around the question today as I go swap out some empty firewood crates for full ones with the pallet forks. I enjoy these kind of challenges, actually!
But now more and more needing a welding rig around the homestead. Tractors and implements, and welding, make a great team.

 

[NCL4701]

If you really don’t like SSQA you could opt for pin on, Euro/Global, or John Deere Quick Attach. I’m aware Euro is used on big tractors but not CUTS and SCUTS, at least in the U.S. so implement sizing might be a problem. Also know John Deere system is used on John Deere but the plates are available and there are plenty of JD compatible attachments in smaller tractor appropriate sizes. There really are suppliers who provide various conversion plates such as:

Quick Attach Adapter Brackets from Worksaver

Worksaver offers adapter attachments for converting your loader to the Universal Skid Steer quick attach system or Euro/Global standard attaching system.

www.worksaver.com

.

Understand why SSQA is a potential problem in theory, but as others have pointed out it’s extremely clear it’s not a problem in practice. So long as I restrict the use of my loader to actual use instead of theoretical use, I’m OK with SSQA.

 

[pokey1416]

How about this for locking down levers? There’s a treaded stud adjacent to each lever I’m assuming for the hydraulic lever option. A thin cable with loop on one end big enough to fit over lever and attached to, or through, the threaded hole.

I tried it with a zip tie just to show location. As soon as I started to unlatch the lever it broke the tie - indicating this might work.

Here’s a few pics of the concept.

 

[BigG]

Find 2 pieces of pipe that will allow the smaller one to slide inside the larger. Cut them to length so that you can place them on one handle and still close the levers. Once the levers are in place spread the pipes apart so that they are covering as much of the handles as possible. Drill a hole where the 2 pipes are overlapped and place a hitch pin in the hole to keep the pipes extended. The two pipes will keep the levers locked without the chance of a stick to force the levers open.

 

[OrangeKrush]

How about this for locking down levers? There’s a treaded stud adjacent to each lever I’m assuming for the hydraulic lever option. A thin cable with loop on one end big enough to fit over lever and attached to, or through, the threaded hole.

I tried it with a zip tie just to show location. As soon as I started to unlatch the lever it broke the tie - indicating this might work.

Here’s a few pics of the concept.

View attachment 52558
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Some type of a solid made J hook with a hole drilled in bottom straight part of it making it a snug fit with a pin through it would work decent. I also think the original poster has a good idea and/or the bungee. Never hurts to be re-assured!

 

[nbryan]

Find 2 pieces of pipe that will allow the smaller one to slide inside the larger. Cut them to length so that you can place them on one handle and still close the levers. Once the levers are in place spread the pipes apart so that they are covering as much of the handles as possible. Drill a hole where the 2 pipes are overlapped and place a hitch pin in the hole to keep the pipes extended. The two pipes will keep the levers locked without the chance of a stick to force the levers open.

Thx for the pics! My loader's ssqa doesn't have those threaded tabs adjacent to the levers. They would be possibly handy to have to make a locking tab of some sort. And the ziptie solution does not work for me. Not when I change out the forks and bucket sometimes multiple times in a day.
My goal is to have a lever locking mechanism that locks easily into place and will not come loose until a specific manual action allows them to move again.
After today's session, I took a look again, and haven't yet zeroed in on an idea to try.
But thanks, and whatever works for you!

 

[nbryan]

Find 2 pieces of pipe that will allow the smaller one to slide inside the larger. Cut them to length so that you can place them on one handle and still close the levers. Once the levers are in place spread the pipes apart so that they are covering as much of the handles as possible. Drill a hole where the 2 pipes are overlapped and place a hitch pin in the hole to keep the pipes extended. The two pipes will keep the levers locked without the chance of a stick to force the levers open.

This idea has my attention, I had been visualizing something along this line. Also like the idea of linch pin locking, a standard worth designing around. So now my daily visual filter will include items in my misc metal pile (substantial) that may fit together this way. And no welding, just pipe cutting and hole drilling, which I can manage!
The key will be to make it hold the levers stiffly down, no play upwards.

 

[xrocketengineer]

This idea has my attention, I had been visualizing something along this line. Also like the idea of linch pin locking, a standard worth designing around. So now my daily visual filter will include items in my misc metal pile (substantial) that may fit together this way. And no welding, just pipe cutting and hole drilling, which I can manage!
The key will be to make it hold the levers stiffly down, no play upwards.

One long pipe and a short pipe and the long one with a kink in the middle perhaps?

 

[gas man]

i've popped my grapple off so many times now, that i chain it on and use a bolt to tighten it up. i will admit that it is not a kubota piece as i bought the chinese latch plates off from amazon. i can pop it off by simply closing the lid on something that puts pressure on the latch pins. i can also pop the forks off if i put much pressure on the fork tips. after looking at some of pic's online i'm thinking maybe the bevel of the pins is to steep allowing them to slide easily up and out off the socket. i could easily grind them down if this is in fact the issue. does anyone have a measurement of the length of the bevel on the latch pins? i'd hate to take off to much and have to buy new ones.

 

[D2Cat]

Before you start grinding, look at post #26 in this thread. It's simple, takes very little time, and works!

 

[gas man]

that would work great, but my handles stay right where they're supposed to. its just the pins pushing up. i can watch them push right up while the handles stay still. it drives me crazy as i only have a b7100, not exactly a high hp machine.

 

[D2Cat]

Can't you adjust the tension on the springs?

 

[nbryan]

Before you start grinding, look at post #26 in this thread. It's simple, takes very little time, and works!

Didn't take me long to decide that such a bungee would not be strong enough to hold back something like a stout stick pushing up against the lever while backing up. And if it didn't break, it would at least allow the lever enough movement as it stretches to allow the pin to easily pop out - it only takes about 1-2 inches of lever movement to pull the pin actuator head away from the stopper that keeps it from pushing upwards.
I'm going to be looking into using a piece or two of metal pipe and some linch pins to fashion something solid to keep those levers in place.

 

[MSG H]

Didn't take me long to decide that such a bungee would not be strong enough to hold back something like a stout stick pushing up against the lever while backing up. And if it didn't break, it would at least allow the lever enough movement as it stretches to allow the pin to easily pop out - it only takes about 1-2 inches of lever movement to pull the pin actuator head away from the stopper that keeps it from pushing upwards.
I'm going to be looking into using a piece or two of metal pipe and some linch pins to fashion something solid to keep those levers in place.

Something like a telescoping stabilizer for the release bars? Why can’t a guard be fabricated around the pins, something like a piece of angle iron covering them.

 

[nbryan]

...Why can’t a guard be fabricated around the pins, something like a piece of angle iron covering them.

My loader bucket has great protection around the pins where they protrude. See my earlier post #50 this thread with pics. The pallet forks, none. But the issue is to hold the levers in place when locked. The pins won't be able to push up more than 1/2" when the lever is fully down. There's a stout steel block there for that reason.
I'm needing to stop the levers from budging when locked. And have the system easy and quick to operate the locking. Ideal would be a built-in latch that snaps into place when levers are locked down, and a spring loaded trigger or button of some sort to release it for unlocking the ssqa. QUICK attach, still. Just an extra button/lever to operate or even a linch pin.

 

[nbryan]

Weld a solid steel bar. That should do it. Personally, I have never had an issue with them coming loose.

If I had a welding rig my approach would be different, for sure.
But so I don't have to go pay a welder equipped neighbor to fabricate something, for now it's my metal saw, grinder, and drill, and my old metal etc. scrap pile.

 

[MSG H]

Weld a solid steel bar. That should do it. Personally, I have never had an issue with them coming loose.

A piece of flat bar stock bolted twice or welded on one handle with two hitch pins on the other handle for quick operation with no tools. Locking both bars horizontal

 

[nbryan]

A piece of flat bar stock bolted twice or welded on one handle with two hitch pins on the other handle for quick operation with no tools. Locking both bars horizontal

I like the idea! The only thing is that the levers, when moved up from locked down to a horizontal position (pointing at each other) they pull the pin away from the ssqa frame where the pin stopper is, so the pins can be raised/pushed up past the stopper.
A flat bar solid extension on one handle connected by one bolt allowing it to pivot on the handle, and with the levers locked down, drill aligning holes at the other handle for a linch pin. Once pinned, as long as the linch and swivel pivots are a snug fit, should stop the bars rising as the add-on bar would hopefully prevent the levers lifting. That motion makes the levers just a bit closer together before going past horizontal.
I'll take some measurements of how much closer the levers are from locked down when they're both raised up to horizontal/parallel to each other. If there's an inch or more of tightening the space, that should be stoppable by a solid bar between.
Connecting the extension solidly to a lever, instead of a one-bolt swivel, will create problems when they're opened and you're trying to hook up my pallet forks - it will hit the forks frame above the ssqa and push the lever down as you try to hook it up. This already happens a bit with connecting the forks. Got used to it, but adding a solid length to a release bar will make that a real problem.