Sprocket Nut

[BonnySlope]

Hi, started a new post on my Howard HR10, got a good deal and I'm still having fun. As you can see chain has a little slack in it and out of adjustment bolt length with jam nut. I was thinking, could that be the sprockets getting worn! If I length the adjustment bolt (.50 jam nut thickness), would that be enough for limited use. As you see the chain doesn't touch when tensioner slid over. If I was to put new sprockets on, I would measure length of chain (20B-1) and if needed replace also.
Sorry, main question is I have Howards part number 647821 (Z=16) tiller lower sprocket and 647822 (Z=11) upper drive sprocket. spanner nut size for Z16 is M40 for M35 for the Z=11. Would on call Ag parts house found on Net. My search comes up with racing sprockets and others that look completely different. Any thoughts,

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If your asking if the tensioner can be adjusted up enough to work, yes it will be fine, it does not need to be tight.

Is this what you're looking for?

Amazon.com

 

[BonnySlope]

If your asking if the tensioner can be adjusted up enough to work, yes it will be fine, it does not need to be tight.

Is this what you're looking for?

Yes, sorry for being long winded. I was planning on putting a 1/2 longer tensioner bolt so I can use jam nut.
If someone can suggest how one may locate sprocket with the information I posted?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes, sorry for being long winded. I was planning on putting a 1/2 longer tensioner bolt so I can use jam nut.
If someone can suggest how one may locate sprocket with the information I posted?

My local farm store has quite a few sprockets and chain.
Looking at you're sprockets they don't look worn.
I'm betting the chain is worn and stretched more than the sprockets.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

OP, you may want to check for 'play' in the bearings, also. I could be wrong, but it looks like that chain has been running dry to me.

 

[mikester]

I like the rust on the chain and sprockets, was that an option?

 

[DustyRusty]

I was taught that if the tips of the sprocket are pointed then it is time to replace the sprocket. More often than not, the chain has stretched. Chain is inexpensive, especially if you buy a 10' box and a bunch of repair links. I lubricate chains like that with bar and chain oil, however, a friend of mine has suggested motorcycle chain lubricant, but, I have yet to try it.

 

[Motion]

Consider taking out a link and putting a half link.

 

[bird dogger]

Yes, sorry for being long winded. I was planning on putting a 1/2 longer tensioner bolt so I can use jam nut.
If someone can suggest how one may locate sprocket with the information I posted?

Bonny, on my old Howard Rotovator that I inherited and needed rebuilding: Parts, such as the drive gears were no longer available. But were easily replaced by using "weld on hubs" with the same size "weld on sprockets".

I'm sure I have pics somewhere that I can post for you. Also, if I rmember right, the factory welding that connected the drive sprocket and shaft to the main tube that all the blades were bolted to....was so poor that the weld had broken loose and the drive shaft just spun inside the main tiller's tube. Something to check on your machine, maybe.

My chains and sprockets were terribly worn and stretched. I replaced them, along with some bearings and seals at the same time. They were all generic sizes and easily avilable at a bearing and drive store or online.

I think I even posted a thread on that somewhere here on OTT. Will look for that as well.

David

 

[BonnySlope]

My local farm store has quite a few sprockets and chain.
Looking at you're sprockets they don't look worn.
I'm betting the chain is worn and stretched more than the sprockets.

I was thinking about the crowns on the sprocket, and they didn't look to bad but, I hadn't worked on roller chains and sprockets for a while. I have a replacement chain on the shelf. I was figuring if I needed to pull sprockets to shorten or replace chain I'd take care of them at the same time.
When I open up C. cover again and lay chain side by side, I'll get an idea how much they stretch.

 

[BonnySlope]

OP, you may want to check for 'play' in the bearings, also. I could be wrong, but it looks like that chain has been running dry to me.

When I opened it up was oil and water. I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and when I sealed it, I filled with a quart of hydraulic oil to make sure rotor seal didn't have oil pouring out. I'm aware that operating creates more pressure.

 

[BonnySlope]

Consider taking out a link and putting a half link.

I was thinking that, but I still need to pull sprockets. When I compare link count and length with new I'll have a better idea.

 

[BonnySlope]

Bonny, on my old Howard Rotovator that I inherited and needed rebuilding: Parts, such as the drive gears were no longer available. But were easily replaced by using "weld on hubs" with the same size "weld on sprockets".

I'm sure I have pics somewhere that I can post for you. Also, if I rmember right, the factory welding that connected the drive sprocket and shaft to the main tube that all the blades were bolted to....was so poor that the weld had broken loose and the drive shaft just spun inside the main tiller's tube. Something to check on your machine, maybe.

My chains and sprockets were terribly worn and stretched. I replaced them, along with some bearings and seals at the same time. They were all generic sizes and easily avilable at a bearing and drive store or online.

I think I even posted a thread on that somewhere here on OTT. Will look for that as well.

David

Thanks, in advance for pic's. I have an HR10. Like mentioned in my original post, too good to pass up. My plan is to put in a small feed strip on the edge of my field a little clover and some native and other grasses, oh and to see how my BX likes it's new toy (to it)

 

[BonnySlope]

I was taught that if the tips of the sprocket are pointed then it is time to replace the sprocket. More often than not, the chain has stretched. Chain is inexpensive, especially if you buy a 10' box and a bunch of repair links. I lubricate chains like that with bar and chain oil, however, a friend of mine has suggested motorcycle chain lubricant, but, I have yet to try it.

Have roller chain on shelf, lots of oils and yes grease can be used when installing new gears or chain that are good for clinging to until the oil can be slung thoroughly. IMO, I only have Red line synthetic grease, which will be fine.

 

[BonnySlope]

I like the rust on the chain and sprockets, was that an option?

Yes, it's called Brake clean

 

[bird dogger]

Thanks, in advance for pic's. I have an HR10. Like mentioned in my original post, too good to pass up. My plan is to put in a small feed strip on the edge of my field a little clover and some native and other grasses, oh and to see how my BX likes it's new toy (to it)

See Post 9912 here....that prompted the rebuild of my Howard J rotovator. Crappy welds on the main drive shaft had finally broke...alowing the drive shaft to just spin inside the main tiller tube.

See Post 9972 for my repair job on that broken weld on the main drive stub.

Here's some additional thumbnail pics of the weld on sprocket/hub combination and drive stub repair & reinstall.