Speaking of shed upgrades...

PHPaul

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Finished strapping the ceiling joists and installed the framing for the winch trolley. Ran a 2x6 down the centerline right below the vertical members, nailed at each joist. Then I ran 2x4's above the joists where I could get them on the centerline and ran a piece of threaded rod up through and snugged it up. Bottom is countersunk so the barn door track the trolley runs in will be flush to the 2x6.

The load of drywall that was supposed to be here today didn't show (3rd screwup out of 5 deliveries...) and is re-scheduled for tomorrow. It better DAMN well show up because I've got equipment rented and help scheduled for the weekend.

If they screw it up again, someone is going the get the benefit of a good old-fashioned U.S. Navy CPO ass-chewing.
 
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PHPaul

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They musta heard me. The drywall showed up before 9AM this morning AND the power company sent me the forms I need to get power hooked up.
 
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PHPaul

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Door showed up this afternoon, and I picked up $200 worth of EMT fittings for the electrical @ Deep Homo. I think I'm good for the weekend... :D
 
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PHPaul

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#1 Grandson came down for another work day and we got the major portion of the drywall hung. Just some narrow strips on the ceiling and a couple pieces on the lower part of the wall.

#2 Grandson is coming down tomorrow and we'll install the double man door. After that it's mud, paint and electrical.
 
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WFM

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That looks great. Lots of hard work and $%^* ton of money with todays prices.
 

PHPaul

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To frame the ceiling, insulate walls and ceiling, cover everything with drywall, install a double entry door, install a service entrance, get connected to utility power, wire for outlets, lights, welder and air compressor and install a free furnace and oil tank will run about $6000. And that estimate may be low by as much as $1000 as I don't have a price on getting a pole set and don't have the bill from the electrician that installed the service entrance yet.

Just the approved chimney for the oil-fired hot air furnace is going to be around $500.
 
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PHPaul

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Got all the drywall up, did a quick-and-dirty tape job (hey, it's just a shop...) and slapped a coat of primer on everything.

Rolling the ceiling about killed my shoulders, REALLY not looking forward to applying a second coat.

Hope to get #2 Grandson down this weekend to get the door installed and then it's on to the electrical.
 
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PHPaul

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Think you need to get the grandson to do the painting too ;):LOL:
Too true, but I want to save him for when I REALLY need him. He works 5/6 days a week and only sees his daughter on weekends so I don't like to take up too much of his time.
 
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BAP

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Make sure you that when you think you have installed enough electric outlets and lights, you install a few more. It’s amazing how what you think is enough quickly become not enough. Shop is looking good.
 
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PHPaul

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Make sure you that when you think you have installed enough electric outlets and lights, you install a few more. It’s amazing how what you think is enough quickly become not enough. Shop is looking good.
The plan is double-duplex outlets every 5-6 feet down the walls, a row of ceiling outlets for daisy-chained LED shop lights, a 220 run for the air compressor and a welder outlet.

All in surface mount boxes and EMT so if changes/expansions are needed, it's easy to do.
 
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PHPaul

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When I insulated The Shop To Be, I put R5 blue board between the rafters just under the tin roof, R19 batts in the ceiling joists and R15 rock wool in the stud bays. 1/2" dry wall on walls and ceiling.

It is 92° in the shade outside, and not a cloud in the sky. In my essentially uninsulated garage with the overhead doors open, it's 86°

In TSTB, with no windows and the door closed, it's 70° Started on the electrical as it was so comfy in there. Too freakin' hot for this old Yankee to be doing anything else.

If it keeps the warm in this Winter as well as it's keeping the hot out now, I'll be a happy camper.
 
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RCW

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Paul - - 70 degrees is a great indication...should be easy to heat.

Looks like a wonderful project coming together just fine!
 

PHPaul

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B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
Apr 2, 2015
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Downeast Maine
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Conduit, boxes and wire run for outlets on the walls.

The up-and-over on the old breaker box is because it's my only source of power until the utility company hooks me up. Plus I'd have had to re-run a bunch of romex. Easier to just leave it.

I'll run it as a sub-panel off the new box once it's hooked up. Then I can pull the direct burial wire that feeds it now and put that last piece of drywall up.

Waiting on the LED shop lights to arrive, then I'll run the conduit, boxes and wire for them.
 
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JimmyJazz

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Conduit, boxes and wire run for outlets on the walls.

The up-and-over on the old breaker box is because it's my only source of power until the utility company hooks me up. Plus I'd have had to re-run a bunch of romex. Easier to just leave it.

I'll run it as a sub-panel off the new box once it's hooked up. Then I can pull the direct burial wire that feeds it now and put that last piece of drywall up.

Waiting on the LED shop lights to arrive, then I'll run the conduit, boxes and wire for them.
Why weren't the wires and and outlets installed in the wall as you had it opened up? It don't know much about this stuff and am not being critical of your efforts. Looks great.
 

PHPaul

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Jimmy, I did it that way because it's easier to modify if changes are needed down the road. Also, I don't have to worry about wiring in the wall being damaged when I hang shelves and such. Plus, it makes insulation much easier to do and more efficient as you don't have to work around wiring and boxes.

Houses are wired through the walls for aesthetics - most industrial wiring is done in conduit.
 
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