Solar Electric Fencer

[WFM]

I'm looking at getting a solar electric fencer to keep the bears off my side deck on the house. I see the electric power is measured in Joule. So I assume a fencer with a Joule power of .04 is way less then one that has a joule power of .10 joule.
I do have the power outlet close by so it doesn't have to be solar but our power here in Maine has doubled in price so I'd like to not plug it in if possible. BUT, if the house current for the charger will allow me to buy one that will burn the eyeballs right out of that sob if he gets on the wire then I'd go that route.
Any fencer advise is appreasited.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Rubber Buckshot has worked for me. Sends them into the next county.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

deer slugs get them into your freezer.....

but yes, more Joules the better... most don't use a lot of energy, they 'pulse' and only use real energy when they 'zap' something.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Rubber Buckshot has worked for me. Sends them into the next county.

OH, up here that would only give the bear a reason to make you wear the gun as a tie!
If you shot one up here you better be shooting a BIG round!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm looking at getting a solar electric fencer to keep the bears off my side deck on the house. I see the electric power is measured in Joule. So I assume a fencer with a Joule power of .04 is way less then one that has a joule power of .10 joule.
I do have the power outlet close by so it doesn't have to be solar but our power here in Maine has doubled in price so I'd like to not plug it in if possible. BUT, if the house current for the charger will allow me to buy one that will burn the eyeballs right out of that sob if he gets on the wire then I'd go that route.
Any fencer advise is appreasited.

Plug in fencers have a lot more bang for the buck, and it will rebound quicker.
Most of the big solar chargers require a car battery to run them, so there is that cost.
Warning a pissed off bear, can be a really dangerous pissed off bear!
Your bears are a lot smaller then ours, the bears I've seen would floss with the hot wire!

This might work!

Cyclops Boss, 32 Joule, 110V AC Powered Energizer | Free USA Shipping

Order Here! The Cyclops Boss, 32 Joule - 110V / AC Powered electric fence charger / energizer / fencer. Very high power output. Best Price and Free Shipping!

cyclopsfence.com

Sorry you wanted solar!

Cyclops Super Solar, 12 Joule Energizer Kit | Free USA Shipping

Order Online Here! The Cyclops SUPER 12 Joule Solar. The most powerful solar powered electric fence kits available. USA Made. Best Price and Free Shipping!

cyclopsfence.com

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I'm looking at getting a solar electric fencer to keep the bears off my side deck on the house. I see the electric power is measured in Joule. So I assume a fencer with a Joule power of .04 is way less then one that has a joule power of .10 joule.
I do have the power outlet close by so it doesn't have to be solar but our power here in Maine has doubled in price so I'd like to not plug it in if possible. BUT, if the house current for the charger will allow me to buy one that will burn the eyeballs right out of that sob if he gets on the wire then I'd go that route.
Any fencer advise is appreasited.

absolutely... the higher the joule rating the strong the energizer.

the largest I have ever used was a PW (Power Wizard) 18 joule energizer good for about 250 MILES of fencing!!

google fencing energizer and you will find hundreds of sizes and options.

 

[DaveFromMi]

I use an A/C powered TSC charger rated for 50 miles. The output is ~2 joules. With barbed wire and 2-3 strands, it's enough to keep deer and other critters out of the garden. You might need more kick for bears. You will pay a premium for a solar charger.

 

[Tughill Tom]

OH, up here that would only give the bear a reason to make you wear the gun as a tie!
If you shot one up here you better be shooting a BIG round!

Oh, you only put 1 in, in the other barrel is 3" slug.

 

[WFM]

 

[WFM]

I want to slow that up some.

 

[Yooper]

Not sure if this is true or not , but if you use a pistol for bear protection in Alaska they make you remove the front sight. Reason for this is when the bear jams it up your a$$ it won’t cause any damage. Makes sense to me

 

[Elliott in GA]

I have been using two Parmak Solar-Pak 6 models for over two years to deal with some hard headed cows, and I have had no problems. They are well made and fully self-contained (solar panel, electronics and battery). Parmak has been around for about 100 years, and their products are made in the USA.

For bears, you would need to step up to this:

Magnum Solar-Pak 12 - ParmakUSA

Parmak Magnum Solar-Pak 12 Electric Fence Charger

parmakusa.com

 

[top gnome]

I have been using two Parmak Solar-Pak 6 models for over two years to deal with some hard headed cows, and I have had no problems. They are well made and fully self-contained (solar panel, electronics and battery). Parmak has been around for about 100 years, and their products are made in the USA.

For bears, you would need to step up to this:

Magnum Solar-Pak 12 - ParmakUSA

Parmak Magnum Solar-Pak 12 Electric Fence Charger

parmakusa.com

I was losing a hen a day to a coyote I just could not catch in the act so bought this Parmak solar 6 and a few hundred feet of poultry netting and have not lost a hen since.

 

[WFM]

Not sure if this is true or not , but if you use a pistol for bear protection in Alaska they make you remove the front sight. Reason for this is when the bear jams it up your a$$ it won’t cause any damage. Makes sense to me

Lol lol lol
I certainly do carry a 45 colt more then not when outside here. But I need the front site.

 

[WFM]

Just ordered the parmak 12 solar charger above. I'll try it. I don't care if they roam around outside. But keep their distance and off the deck.

 

[JohnDB]

Just ordered the parmak 12 solar charger above. I'll try it. I don't care if they roam around outside. But keep their distance and off the deck.

Make sure you ground it thoroughly - makes a big difference to effectiveness. And if you don't have a directional fence tester, I suggest you get one to confirm voltage and help with troubleshooting when you need it.

 

[CAPT Seabee]

Excellent advice in here. The Parmak 12 is 3.1 joules, which is plenty according to AK F&G. Use 4-5 strands of high tensile steel wire with the top strand at 40 inches. Three ground rods for sure. I have a Solar 12 collecting dust as our short winter days runs the battery out along with the capacity reduced due to low temperature. I got mad at the situation and ran buried 120v out to the fence and put a Zareba 75 (4 joule) in and never looked back. BTW most plug in devices are not weatherproof, so I got creative and got an enclosure, T-post plate/mount and went from there. We have visiting horses, hence the braided top wire (ground) with the hot wire about 8 inches below. Any leaning has immediate response. If your soil conditions are poor for ground, you can add a ground rod or two around the perimeter and connect to a ground strand. You can even add a strobe out on the far side. Added benefit is deer do not like electricity. They sense the pulses and shy away.

 

[WFM]

I've used some 12 1/2 ga high tinsel wire for other purposes over the years but in a straight line. I want to have four "runs" of wire about 12" apart. But at the end of the run go 90* up 12" and head back across. My working with 12 gauge wire it quite stiff. Can it be spliced and just wrapped together and still be effective at carrying the current ?

 

[ctfjr]

I've used some 12 1/2 ga high tinsel wire for other purposes over the years but in a straight line. I want to have four "runs" of wire about 12" apart. But at the end of the run go 90* up 12" and head back across. My working with 12 gauge wire it quite stiff. Can it be spliced and just wrapped together and still be effective at carrying the current ?

If you really want a good connection I would use appropriately sized split bolts.

I don't know if any have had a lightning issue with electric fences but I have. A solar powered unit was literally blown apart by a strike. The solar box was about 50' from the house and all the low voltage cables on that side took a hit in the house.

For improving grounding for your ground rods I dig a 6-10" hole on the top of the ground around the rod. Then fill it with copper sulfate. A little water and you have a good ground.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I've used some 12 1/2 ga high tinsel wire for other purposes over the years but in a straight line. I want to have four "runs" of wire about 12" apart. But at the end of the run go 90* up 12" and head back across. My working with 12 gauge wire it quite stiff. Can it be spliced and just wrapped together and still be effective at carrying the current ?

I used aluminum wire. It is easier to work with, and you are relying on the electric shock not the strength of the wire to dissuade the animal.

I connected my chargers to one corner of each fence. The fence consists of 3 wires with handle clips on each end of the wire; I can drop and re-erect the entire fence in minutes. Each corner is connected vertically; thereby each individual wire is independent of the others. Cut or break a wire (other than the initial leads from the chargers) - the remaining wires are still live. With all of the twisted connections to the handles and the vertical runs, the fences operate without any issues.