Snowblower Chute Mod-Linear Actuator

[MuttCat]

Merry Christmas All!

I'm actually ahead of the snow game this season...got the blower mounted before the first snow....

This summer I gathered up the stuff to mount an actuator on the snowblower's deflector chute, and the switch and wiring is all good. Now all I need to figure is where to drill the mounting holes on the chute. I keep looking at it and holding the actuator up to it, and generally agonizing over making way too many holes.

Does anybody have any advise? The actuator ram has 4" of travel and I'm guessing mounting the top first would be the way to go.

Thoughts are certainly appreciated.

 

[mrcarnage2]

A picture of the actuator and shute would be great. Ideas without information are not very helpful to the one asking the questions.

 

[Orange1forme]

You need to determine full up and down(extended & retracted) while holding it against the chute and deflector.

This will help determine where you want it. Also, rotate the chute to determine if one position or another will interfere with anything and wire routing.

There are a few YouTube videos on it. Not really that difficult once you think it through.

Measure twice, cut(drill once).

 

[SidecarFlip]

If you have a remote hydraulic valve out back, a hydraulic cylinder is cheaper and easier. Linear actuators can be pricey. I have one on my round baler and it's expensive.

 

[mrcarnage2]

If you have a remote hydraulic valve out back, a hydraulic cylinder is cheaper and easier. Linear actuators can be pricey. I have one on my round baler and it's expensive.

Could be wrong but sounds like he already has one.

 

[chim]

Match the location with the travel needed. I have seen them mounted on the side near the hinge joint to compensate for not having a long enough stroke. Assuming the actuator has auto stops, Mount it so it cannot overdrive the chute.

 

[Orange1forme]

If you have a remote hydraulic valve out back, a hydraulic cylinder is cheaper and easier. Linear actuators can be pricey. I have one on my round baler and it's expensive.

Actuator for me was far simpler and quick.
My weak link is the switch. Unsure of its longevity vs use.

 

[Orange1forme]

One more thing, I mounted mine in the upright position with no issues in 2 years.

I read a post somewhere that suggested mounting it upside down. This was to keep water from getting in and freezing making it unusable.

 

[MuttCat]

I got the actuator from Firgirelli Auto and the switch from Amazon, nothing fancy. The installation of the switch and wiring was simple, and all told everything was pretty cheap. You would think, considering the cost of the snowthrower, that the up and down chute deflection would at least be cable operated. Rotation is hydraulic though.

I have scouted the web for examples and there are many. Lots of vids of guys blowing snow...useless. Several show the the actuator bolted to the side of the chute; some have the actuator ram attached towards the nose of the deflector, others towards the rear. I guess towards the rear would give me the greatest amount of up/down at the front of the deflector given the 4" of ram travel?

I'm gonna mount it upright. My wife will make a canvas wrap with velcro/zip ties to keep the snow and wet off.

 

[thebicman]

At least tell us what blower your putting it on. Hard to give you advise if your not giving us anything to work with. For mine I used one of the factory holes and then figured out the best location for the other based on travel.

 

[Ryno12]

I just installed one on a BX5450 a couple of weeks ago. I wanted to maximize chute travel while not bottoming out on either end of the slots.
Here’s where I ended up mounting the actuator.

 

[Orange1forme]

At least tell us what blower your putting it on. Hard to give you advise if your not giving us anything to work with. For mine I used one of the factory holes and then figured out the best location for the other based on travel.

I did the same when I mounted mine.

 

[skeets]

Nice job

 

[MuttCat]

Ryno12...YOU ARE THE MAN!

You have the same blower as me and your photos are the guidance needed. It looks like you located the actuator pretty much centered up on the chute. I was thinking maybe to drill the top hole just above the existing slot, following the arc, but you've gone a bit forward I see.

No problems you say, great! And thanks for chiming in.

 

[Ryno12]

Ryno12...YOU ARE THE MAN!



You have the same blower as me and your photos are the guidance needed. It looks like you located the actuator pretty much centered up on the chute. I was thinking maybe to drill the top hole just above the existing slot, following the arc, but you've gone a bit forward I see.



No problems you say, great! And thanks for chiming in.

Thanks, glad I could help! I was in your shoes doing this same research not so long ago.

Yes, the bottom bolt is pretty much centered & the top bolt is just to the right of center. When fully open, the top hole is at about 12:30 to the top of the arc.
Of course there’s other areas that will work; this is just where I chose. Everything works well though.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

This is a 4" 250lb actuator mounted "upside down" to keep moisture out. Blower is a B2771.

To address an earlier comment, switch longevity should not be an issue if using a properly-rated switch. The switch I used has 15A contacts while the actuator draws about 1.4A... Switch should last forever.

Those who say installing a hydraulic cylinder is easier or cheaper likely haven't installed a linear actuator - it really couldn't be much easier if you've got any inclination with electrical stuff. As for cost, mine cost me about $150 all in. One doesn't need much hydraulic hose, connectors and cylinder to get up to that level of cost, and that's assuming you already have the control valve in place. From what I've been seeing the cost of hydraulic cylinders around here are about 60% of the price of a comparable linear actuator. A bit of wire is a lot cheaper than hydraulic line. And electric wires don't leak, or burst.

Just sayin'... Sometimes it's worth checking out the alternatives fully before making a decision on which direction to go with your project.

 

[MuttCat]

Really, the toughest part, beside where to drill two holes in thew chute, was where to mount the switch. On my BX, the dash is crowded and not much space that is flat. I finally mounted it on the left hand side just above the screening. I bought a mounting sleeve for the switch and it popped right in nice and clean. I went with 16 ga wire, 5A fuse, and connected to both sides of the battery. The switch centers in the off position, so I don't care about battery. I'm probably into this for $125 or so. I got the wire from NAPA...could have saved a few bucks there.

 

[Ryno12]

Really, the toughest part, beside where to drill two holes in thew chute, was where to mount the switch. On my BX, the dash is crowded and not much space that is flat. I finally mounted it on the left hand side just above the screening. I bought a mounting sleeve for the switch and it popped right in nice and clean. I went with 16 ga wire, 5A fuse, and connected to both sides of the battery. The switch centers in the off position, so I don't care about battery. I'm probably into this for $125 or so. I got the wire from NAPA...could have saved a few bucks there.

Not sure if you have the electric chute rotation or not, but Kubota sells a dual switch housing that clamps right on the hydro lever. This puts the switches in the same location as the raise/lower function.

I know you already mounted your switches but this gives you another option in case you decide to relocate them.

 

[NoJacketRequired]

In my case I used a 12V winch to accomplish chute rotation. This is the second blower which I've modified in this manner. Works a charm, even with the cheapest winch, as long as it is power out / power return. I mount the rocker switch for the winch directly below the hydraulic control lever for the quick hitch. Mounted right beside the winch control is the rocker switch for the linear actuator for chute deflection. Ergonomically it really couldn't be much better. Oh, by the way, I mounted the hydraulic valve on the right fender where its control lever falls perfectly to hand. Check the photo below, reposted from this thread - unfortunately in the photo of the hydraulic valve I hadn't yet installed the electrical switches.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39257&highlight=nojacketrequired

 

[MuttCat]

Way beyond my skill level...nice work.