Guys I need some ideas on how to fill the gaps between concrete slabs in front of the garage. When they were poured they had what I think was celotex spacers between each pour. And yes they are all gone the grass has eaten them. Soo I need some ideas how to fill the gaps maybe 1/2 inch wide
Smart guys
- Thread starter skeets
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Hey Skeets, fill them with salt. Then the grass won't grow!
Go to your Home Depot and look up concrete crack sealer. Get it in a bucket, or caulking tubes.
Go to your Home Depot and look up concrete crack sealer. Get it in a bucket, or caulking tubes.
CaveCreekRay
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Len beat me to it!
I used foam seam filler, punched it down an inch and then shot the cheapest silicone tubes I could find. Took a few but I washed out the crack with a hose and let it dry a couple of days before foaming and caulking. I brushed it off with a small brush to get rid of particles and the silicone bonded well to the stem wall and the concrete drive. The silicone has yellowed a tad but not bad. Doing a great job of keeping the rain out.
I used foam seam filler, punched it down an inch and then shot the cheapest silicone tubes I could find. Took a few but I washed out the crack with a hose and let it dry a couple of days before foaming and caulking. I brushed it off with a small brush to get rid of particles and the silicone bonded well to the stem wall and the concrete drive. The silicone has yellowed a tad but not bad. Doing a great job of keeping the rain out.
Russell King
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I did a similar thing as above. Clean out as much debris as you can. Be careful since there may be old rusted nails sticking out of the concrete into the crack. Wash out with a jet nozzle on end of the hose and let dry.
I bought backer rod and some black plastic low pressure irrigation tube. Installed the black tube across the drive to use for wireway or irrigation in future (installed caps on ends). Then installed the foam backer rod as needed to limit how much sealant was used.
If the crack is fairly level I recommend self leveling sealant from Sika. It comes in various colors and some are more expensive than others for some reason. It comes in tubes like caulking and you can pump it into the crack. I recommend leaving it a bit lower than the top or it will flow over and create other problems. It looks better if it is about an eighth to quarter inch low.
Cover it with tape or paper until it cures or junk will get stuck on it.
I used plumbers putty to seal the ends of the crack before I filled the crack.
If they are not level cracks I believe they make thicker material and then you have to tool it to be smooth. Look at brick buildings and then vertical expansion joints or window to brick joint for example.
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I bought backer rod and some black plastic low pressure irrigation tube. Installed the black tube across the drive to use for wireway or irrigation in future (installed caps on ends). Then installed the foam backer rod as needed to limit how much sealant was used.
If the crack is fairly level I recommend self leveling sealant from Sika. It comes in various colors and some are more expensive than others for some reason. It comes in tubes like caulking and you can pump it into the crack. I recommend leaving it a bit lower than the top or it will flow over and create other problems. It looks better if it is about an eighth to quarter inch low.
Cover it with tape or paper until it cures or junk will get stuck on it.
I used plumbers putty to seal the ends of the crack before I filled the crack.
If they are not level cracks I believe they make thicker material and then you have to tool it to be smooth. Look at brick buildings and then vertical expansion joints or window to brick joint for example.
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Can you still get solid tar/pitch? You know the stuff you have to melt in a galvanised bucket over a fire. That's what I'd use. No need for any packing material, just pour it in.
Russell King
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Lil Foot
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Back in the late '60s early '70s, local block/brick/cement/mortar dealers sold a thin replacement board heavily wrapped with saran wrap. You cleaned out the old board, unwrapped this new stuff, dropped it in, and watered it. It then expanded to fill the joint better than the original. It was great stuff, but no one today has heard of it.
CaveCreekRay
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Bill,
That's because you are making it up.
(Why has all the good stuff disappeared? Remember when they trued tires? Lol...)
That's because you are making it up.
(Why has all the good stuff disappeared? Remember when they trued tires? Lol...)
Glad to see these suggestions, I have a few missing expansion joints to fix/fill. [emoji1303]
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self leveler is what I'd use. It's what they use in warehouses to fill cracks and holes where solid tire forklifts run 100's of times a day. I think it's 8500 psi compared to regular 2500-3000 we use for driveways. It's pricey so you may want to pack the seams with a crushed lime rock or road base first. Leave just a 1" to fill.
Plan be would be use 1x P.T. to fill the voids. Ground contact of course not the blue stuff for indoor use.
Plan be would be use 1x P.T. to fill the voids. Ground contact of course not the blue stuff for indoor use.
