I was looking through some HF adds, and looked at their solar panels. Knowing very little about the technology, I was wondering, 2 different types of panels, some with all the stuff and other with no controllers and stuff, at the same rating and the same price almost. What is the difference, between them? Years ago we had a wind turbine set up at camp for nothing more than shyts and giggles that charged a 12 volt battery, why I have no idea, who set it up or why. It was damaged from a winter storm and scraped. But now I want to try something different, since the power company at camp is some what less than reliable any more. I know HF stuff might not be top shelf but a place to start, a learning curve if you will
Smart guys, SOLAR
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You need to give more info skeets, where are you planning on installing it and what and how much are you needing it to run with it? If it's a your home and I'm thinking we're close to the same age it may not be feasible. When I looked into it a few years back they told me it wouldn't' be worth it because of my age, (yep the one two punch) however everything is changing fast now so best to check into it.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Some are at household 115V and others are at 12 or 24 volts. The solar panels are all DC power output and can be arranged for different (12 or 24) DC output. For AC power you will need some electronics (inverter) to get to AC and increase the voltage.
If all you want is lights then I would use some 24 volts LEDs, a suitable 24 volt solar panel(s) and some 12 volt batteries (lithium ion) wired to 24 volts. There are some electronics needed to protect the batteries and solar panel but that is basically a battery charger (but for 24 volts). That is basically what I use for my gate opener with some signal lights involved.
If all you want is lights then I would use some 24 volts LEDs, a suitable 24 volt solar panel(s) and some 12 volt batteries (lithium ion) wired to 24 volts. There are some electronics needed to protect the batteries and solar panel but that is basically a battery charger (but for 24 volts). That is basically what I use for my gate opener with some signal lights involved.
Depends on what your looking to power up. I had one that ran a 12 water pump to my camp and another that ran a 120v inverter for lighter charging loads and radios.
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Grok knows more than me.
Depends on how much power you want, how much you want to spend, and how reliable you want it. I'm playing with 10-550 watt bifacial panels on a trailer, a 12000 watt EG4 inverter and 45 kw of 48 volt batteries now. Started off as a replacement for our 12kw gas generator due to many power outages and now supplies half our house power. I have it in a shed. Diysolarforum.com has good information to get started. Black Friday will have great prices on most lithium batteries. Remember that lower voltages require bigger wires.
Yep I would never live long enough to recoup the out lay of a home system thats for sure. So basically, enough to charge a couple batteries, for a couple LED lights, maybe a laptop, and charge the handy talkies and an inverter for a AC broadcast radio. I just dont want to haul a generator up and back and the new one is going to stay home! And the Coleman lamps work but get to be a PIA at my age. So no big draw for power, just a few little things
xrocketengineer
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BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
Just to give you an idea, I put this together in a hurry for my sister after hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico in 2017 so that she could run her fridge, charge phones and have a few LED lights. I did not know anything about solar power so I watched a bunch of Youtube videos and read anything useful about the topic from the internet. She was without power for over a year.
I could get everything but the batteries in the main land. The 4 panels were 136 watts each and measure 216 in. long X 1.5 in. wide.
They were originally intended to be installed (bonded) on metal roofs but they were shipped rolled up and that made it perfect for direct shipping to PR. The AGM batteries were obtained from a Batteries plus store in PR, luckily, since it was next to impossible to source things locally after the hurricane.
The Epever MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) Charge controller and the 2000 Watt inverter were delivered to me so that I could prewired them before shipping (kind of like a kit with instructions). Then my nephew in PR could connect the panels and the batteries. It worked right off the bat! The whole thing was a little over $2000.
I could get everything but the batteries in the main land. The 4 panels were 136 watts each and measure 216 in. long X 1.5 in. wide.
This was my first cart that I built to play with solar that has run the lights in my shop for over a year. Also ran fridge, freezers, internet, and tvs during outages. 5 kw battery and a little sun worked great.
This is the trailer I modified for the panels to keep them portable.
This is converting my wife's golf cart to run on solar. Haven't had to charge it in 2 years
A little sunshine can run a lot of things
This is the trailer I modified for the panels to keep them portable.
This is converting my wife's golf cart to run on solar. Haven't had to charge it in 2 years
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xrocketengineer
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Lifetime Member
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BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
On the other hand, a Solar Generator might be the ticket for you. It is portable, it can charge with AC, it can charge with the car and from solar panels. All is integrated, battery, battery charge controller and inverter. The only thing that you might want to add are solar panel extension cables, to keep the unit in the shade and the solar panels use standard connectors.
I own one of these units, however not like like this one with the latest LiFePO4 batteries that have a longer life.
I own one of these units, however not like like this one with the latest LiFePO4 batteries that have a longer life.
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That is a really good idea! Thank you for pointing out that type of system, I know they exist but would have never thought of suggesting it but it sounds just about perfect.
I guess the panels could be roof mounted with the other part in a lean to at the side of the cabin so it could be connected to the cabin wiring by plugging into the correct points. I assume it could be inside also but not sure if hooking it to solar panels and charging inside the cabin would be a good deal.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Nice use of those old sh1tty scuba weights in your top pic!!!!!……
After accidentally dropping one on my SIL’s toe, I scrapped them all and bought the soft weights.
I hate those damn things.
Thank you, Sir that is, pretty much what I had in mind. If I may ask, where did you source the system ?
I was thinking the same thing, some place I think I still had a mold for themNice use of those old sh1tty scuba weights in your top pic!!!!!……
After accidentally dropping one on my SIL’s toe, I scrapped them all and bought the soft weights.
I hate those damn things.
Ya know, sometimes you guys simply amaze me. There is so much diversity of knowledge in here at times it is mind boggling. The Golf Cart is pretty cool, and the set up on the roof is pretty much what I was thinking. I know looking at it, there is much more than meets the eye. Nothing is as simple as it first looks!
xrocketengineer
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Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
I had to acquire the parts from Amazon or Ebay. The panels are probably no longer available since the company was out of business back then. But you might get lucky:
Panels These do not have any connectors. The ones I bought had MC3 connectors but today MC4 is the standard.
Controller
Inverter
Batteries These days you might be able to get a longer life Lithium-Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) battery than these.
On top of that you are going to need a fuse between the battery and the inverter similar to this. A breaker/switch to connect/disconnect the solar panels. Y cables to connect the solar panels in parallel. Extension cables to reach between the solar panels and the controller. Plus you might need some miscellaneous cables and hardware that you will see that you need as you go.
Good Luck.
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Remote power for small needs is where solar shines. You are on the right track. Just do DC for most of it, and run an inverter for the AC needs. Much simpler. Anything you run off the inverter won't be efficient, but in this scenario, you really don't really need to worry about efficiency. It's intermittent use, once in a while. It's a perfect place for a DC solar setup.
12v LEDs will provide al the light you need.
If you can find a 12v adapter for your laptop, that's good to go, otherwise charge from the inverter.
The walkie talkies might have a 12v supply available, depending on the price point and brand. Otherwise, again the inverter will do.
The very first thing to do is to determine how much power you need. Do yourself a favor - figure out yoru best generous estimate, then double it.
BTW, on inverters.... A decent one will run at its rated power. Just not for long. Figure your load, and go 2-3 times bigger if you want a long life out of it.
JRHill
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Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
Couple thoughts on the HF kits:
1- Panel type. Of Mono and polycrystalline type panels, HF uses the cheaper, lower power and shorter lifetime type, poly;
2- Generation efficiency. I bought several of these kits for use in the event of needing 12dc light at a couple of outbuildings. They were in full sun and connected to a known good starting battery. When I would go to use them the batteries were always very low or dead. What was happening is they would produce power in the daytime but the 12vdc charge controller would draw more parasitic power over night than it charged the battery in the day. So the batteries were depleted in a time and were slowly being ruined.
In order to make this work I would have to go to each outbuilding each night to disconnect the batteries and then reattach them in the morning. No way. $300 failed experiment. BTW, we are off grid and completely solar powered. I know solar. For 2.5x the cost of the HF unit I could buy a decent panel and small charge controller and have something that worked.
1- Panel type. Of Mono and polycrystalline type panels, HF uses the cheaper, lower power and shorter lifetime type, poly;
2- Generation efficiency. I bought several of these kits for use in the event of needing 12dc light at a couple of outbuildings. They were in full sun and connected to a known good starting battery. When I would go to use them the batteries were always very low or dead. What was happening is they would produce power in the daytime but the 12vdc charge controller would draw more parasitic power over night than it charged the battery in the day. So the batteries were depleted in a time and were slowly being ruined.
In order to make this work I would have to go to each outbuilding each night to disconnect the batteries and then reattach them in the morning. No way. $300 failed experiment. BTW, we are off grid and completely solar powered. I know solar. For 2.5x the cost of the HF unit I could buy a decent panel and small charge controller and have something that worked.
This is the best beginning place to start for getting info on diy/ small scale solar.
Also the forum has more info...
