Slip clutch on rotary cutter - does it still " slip" -See pics.

Drifthopper

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2000 L3710 HST w/ Woods 1012 FEL. LandPride FDR2572, 60" Brush Hog: Need 60" BB
Apr 22, 2022
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Western New York
See pictures.
Brush Hog 5' / 60" rotary cutter with the top chain from back to the 3 pt arm.
Dad was using the brush hog some years ago, lifted it up, ( i don't know how he had the top link set ) the bolts on the slip clutch caught the chain and bent the bolts.
( and with his old Jimna china tractor, the shaft was too long for that 3 pt and pushed the gears out of the back of the gear box.... so that is why the plates & threaded rod are there surrounding the gear box... to keep everything together and inside..... buy.... hey.... it still works. )

I got my L3710 last spring and used this cutter as is, cut about 7-8 acres of our property.
The area that I cut last spring / summer was already cut a few years ago, so other then some heavy brush, it was " easy " cutting. I didn't hit anything hard.

Now...... I want to expand what area we want to keep open.
And cut some areas that have not been cut in a very long time.

So..... what i'm asking... from what is pictured.... Do you guys think this slip clutch will still " slip" ....?

Are they Re-build-able..?

I don't want to be cutting an area that hasn't been cut before and hit something hard, and this thing does not slip and it takes out the PTO in my tractor.
 

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Elliott in GA

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LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
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Why not test it the way you a supposed to every year. Mark the clutch pack with a paint pen (a line across the plates). Loosen the bolts an even amount; the manual will tell how much or experiment. Engage the mower several times with nothing to cut. Then see if the plates moved relative to each other. If they move, retighten per manual or enough to prevent slippage under no load
 
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Russell King

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Could you replace the bolts?

I think it is rebuildable if you can find the parts
 
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Drifthopper

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2000 L3710 HST w/ Woods 1012 FEL. LandPride FDR2572, 60" Brush Hog: Need 60" BB
Apr 22, 2022
71
58
18
Western New York
Why not test it the way you a supposed to every year. Mark the clutch pack with a paint pen (a line across the plates). Loosen the bolts an even amount; the manual will tell how much or experiment. Engage the mower several times with nothing to cut. Then see if the plates moved relative to each other. If they move, retighten per manual or enough to prevent slippage under no load

Manual...???.... what manual..?

This brush hog is probably 25 yrs old..... maybe older.

And... I don't think those bolts will loosen up in the condition they are in.
 

D2Cat

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Remove the bolts and replace with new, straight bolts. There are fiber disc between the plates. Make sure they are there and clean. Assemble and adjust as others have mentioned,

Walk the unmowed area not only looking for items above grade, but holes also. Know what you are driving into before starting.
 
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cthomas

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Every year I have to take my slip clutch apart and free up the discs and pressure plate(hit with a zip wheel) then I tighten to 48 foot pounds(if I remember correctly) as that was the torque at the measurement of the threads per the manual. A = Measured length of each spring before disassembling the slip clutch. Use 1 3/32" (28 mm) for “A” dimension if measurements were not taken. ( A is the spring compressed) Here is the Land pride manual (page 44) https://cdn-assets.greatplainsmfg.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/326-047m.pdf

Page 44
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Will it work like it is, highly unlikely!
Cut the nuts off the bolts, replace all the bolts and nuts (lock nuts) and set them loose, spin the disk a few times to break off the rust, then set it light.
 
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Motion

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You may want to address that loose chain issue, I willing to bet when it first happened it caught your dad's attention! Interesting gearbox supports,
 

rbargeron

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I'd like to compliment your dad's effective repair - pretty clear to me he has a clever and practical eye for things mechanical. Although the clutch face may have become stuck with rust, I think it is still a usable device.

The bolts are likely only soft grade 2 material - and can be bent back to look better if it suits you. Find a 2-3 foot length of steel pipe and a plumbing tee for the end that will slip over the springs. Then rotate the bolts so they bend outward, and cold straighten the bolts with the tee lever, bending them toward the center. Your dad knew it wasn't really necessary - I'd leave it as is to respect his work ;)!

As others have said its good to take it all apart once in a while to free it up so it will work when needed. Take care, Dick B.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I'm with the 'camp', cut off the bolts, replace with new. If you know the make + model of the cutter, you can find a parts manual online even if company is out of business. Odds are good the manufacturer used springs and bolts on several models. A 'mechanical hardware' store can easily figure out springs (diameter of rod, coils,length) to replace them. I would add washers under both head of bolt and the nut.
Other option is to find another complete PTO shaft. Check local scrapyards,ask to be called if one comes in.
 
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old and tired

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L2800 HST; 2005; R4
How is the slip clutch attached to the gear box? Mine is a bolt on a smooth shaft, NOT splines, and I run a low grade (2 or 5) in there and never even think about the slip clutch doing anything... been that way since I bought it in 2005... I've gone through breaking about 5 bolts in that time.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
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curious was i...
found this site...


kinda figured out 'how-it-works'...
the 'driven disc' is attached to the cutter
some 'friction discs' on both side and the springs supply the tension
enough to transmit power but not a 'solid' connection?