Interesting ... 10 hours of driving each way though.I have a nearly new Land Pride 60” for sale in that for sale section…pics and price.
Thank you for this detailed reply. This is really helpful. And anybody who uses the word "tertiary" is immediately going to get my attention.I love all the thought that is going into this. I am technically new to tractors (<2yrs) but as an automotive Master Tech i have to know how everything works to be able to diagnose and fix it, so I didn't just buy a tractor.. I looked at damn near everything that was out there, tried to reverse engineer how every thing worked, bought a tractor, and then proceeded to test every bit of 'conventional wisdom' I could to find the holes and what people are missing. It's been a fun journey so far!
Anyway, my box blade experience is very relevant here because I pull a 60" box blade with a B6100, which is smaller and lighter than most of the BX series and has only a 500lb 3pt lift capacity.
Width: With 4wd, FEL adding its weight to the front tires, rear diff lock, and a gear transmission that can spin all 4 tires without stalling the engine or going into pressure relief, I can pull a 60" box blade with this tiny tractor. However, it DOES require constant attention and can be finicky. As you alluded to, a smaller box blade would require less operator interaction or a lower level of it to function and therefore could be more or less fun depending on whether you enjoy being challenged as an operator, or are just trying to get something done. I personally would be loathe to go all the way down to 48". I think 54 would be a sweet spot.
Weight: I can see two main uses for weight of the box blade. The obvious one is ripper penetration. The less obvious one is how far you have to roll at the beginning of a 'pass' for the rear blade or rippers to 'feed' into the ground and begin to cut. I have not looked up the spec but i believe my 60" blade is in the 300-350 lb range. I had no problem with its function at that weight, however.. I added a 113lb 54" loading dock bumper to the back (the thing made out of old tires that semis bump their trailers into at loading docks) so it is now in the 400-450lb range. It DOES function better on both the points above. However, it's brought me perilously close to my 3pt lift capacity. Before I added the weight, there would occasionally be times I couldn't lift a full box blade to dump it because enough material was 'stuck' to the box that it was way over my capacity, in which case i'd have to back up while lifting on the 3pt to release the material and be able to raise the box. After adding the weight, I'm hitting that point a lot more often. Since I modify everything i plan to increase the 3pt capacity instead of removing the weight, but that may be a path you have no intention of going down, in which case I would err towards <350lb blades to give you more 'headroom'. You can always add weight to it later, like i did. I do feel like a curved 'moldboard' rear wall of the box could be useful here because the churning of the material against the back wall would discourage as much material adhering to the box as you try to lift it.
Side wall thickness: I don't think it matters a lick unless you plan to use the thing on rock/gravel for a LONG time, in which case you can wear away the bottom front of the side walls in a number of years, in which case thicker would be better. But I personally don't see it as an issue. Plus, you can make 'skids' for the side walls out of some lightly modified pieces of angle iron, and if you wanted to bolt them to the side walls i'd rather be drilling through 3/16 side walls than 1/2 side walls.
Number of Shanks: I feel that 5 is better than 4. I only feel this way because with 5 you have the option to run ONLY the center shank lowered and use it as a rock/root ripper, or a tiny trencher, and have more intuitive 'placement' of it and load the 3pt evenly when trying to pull up and pry a rock out or rip a root. If you are running all the rippers down, then with a BX or something tiny less rippers would be better in the sense that you can run less rippers deeper, where you would have to run more rippers more shallowly before running into traction/pulling limits of the small tractor. So i would say 5 is good, 3 is probably just as good as 5 if not better for such a tiny tractor, and 4 is fine but minorly complicates the fringe use case of using only one ripper as a '3pt prybar in the dirt'.
Clevis vs Pin: I see it as a non-issue when pulled by the size of tractor we're talking about. I have stalled my tractor (movement, not engine) with my box blade many many times. Sometimes many times in the space of 20 feet. I have never distorted those mounting points. I don't think my tractor can pull hard enough to do it. PLUS, here's the kicker... I had one of my rockshaft arms fail (due to a loose bolt backing out, nothing to do with box blade weight etc) while travelling FULL SPEED (9-11mph for me) and drop one side of the box blade in the dirt like dropping anchor in the dirt. That was a hell of a test of the box blade construction, and my pin mounts STILL weren't damaged in any way. I think it's a non-issue on a tiny tractor.
3pt frame attaching to rear wall: I agree that it's preferable to have the 3pt frame not JUST attach to the ripper bar and also attach to the rear wall, but i also suspect it is a non-issue on this small of a tractor. One tertiary issue of whether the 3pt mount extends all the way to the rear wall is it might make it easier or harder to build YOUR OWN stuff in that area. IF you wanted to build some kind of weight rack, tool carrier/box, etc in that space, it may be simpler if it was wide open, or it may be preferable to already have some structure there you could attach to. So that minor factor just depends on whether you think you'd modify the box blade down the line.
I don't care about country of origin. I'd rather buy from China than feel like I am being priced out of a middle-class lifestyle, and that feels like a constant threat lately.
Lastly.. GET A POWER TOP LINK!! It takes a box blade from a bit of a hassle, to a very fun mental challenge. Rather than run another hydraulic circuit I installed an electro-hydraulic actuator as a top link (hydraulic cylinder with onboard electric pump) but that's an issue for another thread. But, GET A POWER TOP LINK
I've read that thread multiple times and have done online searches for Bobcat and nothing came up in my area. One thing I'm starting to wonder about is if there are farm supply places out there that sell products but don't have an online presence. I don't frequent these places so I have almost zero familiarity with what's out there.I didn't see Bobcat brand on your list, and I'll throw it out there for consideration. I have a thread I made recently about the quest to purchase a boxblade for my B2650, and the winning element of the Bobcat was that they were available.
Bobcat box blade? Or Titan or Southern?
Bobcat is owned by Dooson in South Korea. Daedong in South Korea builds Bobcats for Dooson and they are also known for making good products such as Kioti tractors here in the US. South Korean manufacturers have a good reputation for quality and I would expect them to subcontract implements to...www.orangetractortalks.com
I finally used it for the first time this last weekend, and I am OVERALL pretty pleased with it. I hope to update that thread today with the details. But it has a lot of the quality items you are looking for with it (clevis, scarifier numbers, no clips).
Oh this makes me laugh. Researching the crap out of it and then buying something from Harbour Freight. I acknoweldge that this could be a potential outcome for me. But as I said in my original posting, I want to know what I bought, and why I bought it. If I buy something cheap then I want to actually know what made it cheap.@ejb11235 I too was in the same boat as you, flipping across all the different brands and wondering what I needed (staying up all night and researching during the day at work). Then Princess Auto (Like a Harbour Freight in the States) had a 60" Box Blade, last one left and I snagged it for cheap. I was worried that my BX2380 wouldn't be enough but when you but it in low gear, 4x4, and shanks down, I've been very surprised. Sure a 48" would probably be a little better however I have zero complaints on the 60" and I've done my 2" down gravel driveway and graded my clay property with zero hesitation. I think the unit is ~400lbs and very well built (for the price). Is it a Land Pride or EA.. probably not but I could probably have this thing for 10 years before I'll need to ever replace it.
I may have pulled the trigger a little quick because I could barely use my loader without any counterbalance, however I'm not disappointed. It may not say LandPride or Kubota on the side, but at least it doesn't say Frontier and painted green. lol
I found it by Facebook marketplace. I was looking for a used BB, but that one kept popping up.I've read that thread multiple times and have done online searches for Bobcat and nothing came up in my area. One thing I'm starting to wonder about is if there are farm supply places out there that sell products but don't have an online presence. I don't frequent these places so I have almost zero familiarity with what's out there.
I'd be interested in that other thread.....Lastly.. GET A POWER TOP LINK!! It takes a box blade from a bit of a hassle, to a very fun mental challenge. Rather than run another hydraulic circuit I installed an electro-hydraulic actuator as a top link (hydraulic cylinder with onboard electric pump) but that's an issue for another thread. But, GET A POWER TOP LINK.
I found a local seller of new Titan Implements (not Titan Attachments) box blades, and they are definitely a contender.I found it by Facebook marketplace. I was looking for a used BB, but that one kept popping up.
Again, I use my 1260 PERFECTLY FINE.You are gold. I didn't even know that existed.
BX Series: https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/lp-pdfs/01-bx-series-lp-implements.pdf
B Series: https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/lp-pdfs/02-b-series-lp-implements.pdf
Here's a screen shot on the box blades section. This is money. Very surprising that they go up to a 66" box width ... but I'm not going to ignore what people have said here. But that they go up to a weight of 370 is extremely interesting.
The below identified implements are either manufactured by Kubota or have received an Engineering Release approving use by Kubota, and thus meet the performance matching requirements for the specified power machines for normally anticipated operating conditions. The specifications below are intended for general application; unusual soil, terrain, or severe operating conditions may not allow for the use of a specific implement under those operating conditions. The use of implements which are neither manufactured or approved by Kubota for use with the specified power machines and which do not meet the below specifications may result in malfunctions or damage to the power machine, damage to other property and/or injury to the operator or to others. Any such malfunctions or damages are not covered by the Kubota express limited warranty. The power machine, implement, and operating conditions need to be evaluated and monitored by the operator to be sure that the conditions are within a safe operating envelope for general use.
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Thanks for the youtube link. I watched that video and a couple of others. I'm giving a lot of thought to my intended uses, because as you say, I think that's really important. If I were only going to be touching up existing driveways I would go on the wider side. I really like the idea of the box extending outside of the wheels. On the other hand, for digging up fresh soil, especially with roots and rocks, a narrower box would be better.Really the main thing you have to remember weather a 48 inch or 60 inch, is what you are going to do. Remember you have a SMALL tractor and you dont have the weight to get super aggressive with any 3pt attachment. Will the BX series work hard, darn right it will, will it do things that make people say HUH yes it will. Remember it is not a 988, it is a little tractor! Think each job through, be it with a Box Blade or back blade.
My list of box blades is nowhere near complete, but I have the following 54" wide box blades:I did not realize they made a 54", is this only Land Pride?
Yeah, the clips on the Landpride are almost a showstopper for me. They can be replaced with rods, but I would be hard pressed to pay for a new one only to have to immediately fix something that should never have seen the light of day. If I found a used one for a good price then I would suck it up. Note that the bigger blades don't have them.Just something else to consider. If you are going to be using the shanks frequently, the Landpride that you are looking at have spring clips to hold in the shanks. We have the 48" Landpride that uses the spring clips. If I had to do it over again, I would have purchased a BB that used pins to adjust the shanks.
Other than that, I like the Landpride, no complaints.
He said it was so you could drop just the middle scarifier and use it like a bulldozer ripper blade. So you've got one tooth you can rip with that's lined up with the center of your tractor.Ok, I'm in the process of shifting gears from educating myself to identifying my actual options and making a purchase decision. One last (maybe) question ... on a 4' box, what do you think of 3 scarifiers instead of the more common 4? One of my top contenders has only 3. One person mentioned that having an odd number of scarifiers can be good because it allows you remove all of them except the middle one, but I can't remember exactly why he said that would be useful.