RPMs

[random]

Just curious: what RPM do you use for what sort of tasks, and why? I'd say the PTO stuff is pretty clear, but what about for loading, scraping, plowing, etc - what RPM, what gear?

 

[Tornado]

Just curious: what RPM do you use for what sort of tasks, and why? I'd say the PTO stuff is pretty clear, but what about for loading, scraping, plowing, etc - what RPM, what gear?

This is likely going to start a big debate. We cant even offer suggestions to a guy on what the best 3pt. implement is to maintain his driveway without it running down a bunch of rabbit holes and nonsensical debates. Typically though, you're gonna wanna work on the upper end of the RPM throttle. Lot of people are going to say run wide open all the time, others will say no need to do that if not necessary, and that is likely to be the big debate points here. The owners manual tends to suggest putting the RPM at a level that does the job comfortably. Tractor engines tend to work better when opened up a bit - just keeps the oil flowing at a near max rate. I think one thing that we can MAYBE all agree on is that you definitely don't want to work at too low of RPM's to where the engine is choking down. That is not good on a diesel engine.

I think sometimes people tend to not want to run an engine at wide open RPM because there is the impression that you are stressing the engine by doing so, as if yo uare revving up a gasoline engine to high RPM's and holding it there. As a new tractor owner I think this is kind of a natural instict to think that way, but form what Ive come to learn, these higher RPM's in tractor engine are where it feels most comfortable and operates the best.

Personally, on my L2501 I tend to work around 2000 to 2100RPM, just shy of full throttle. If I am really working hard like pulling my disc harrow in my garden plot I will go full throttle as that is a good work out for my little L2501.

 

[mcfarmall]

Wide Open Throttle...as soon as the engine fires off at startup, advance the throttle to the end of the lever's travel and leave it there until the job is finished.

 

[DogHandlerMN]

This is likely going to start a big debate. We cant even offer suggestions to a guy on what the best 3pt. implement is to maintain his driveway without it running down a bunch of rabbit holes and nonsensical debates

I almost fell out of my chair laughing.

I tend to run mine in the 1800-2000 as well, depending on the work. Sometimes less, sometimes more if I want the speed or power. I’ve always understood that lower RPM can lead to more buildup in the dpf and require regens more often.

 

[85Hokie]

Wide Open Throttle...as soon as the engine fires off at startup, advance the throttle to the end of the lever's travel and leave it there until the job is finished.

Dayyyyyum ...... direct and simple.......... but I digress!

I too laughed!

Tornado said it damn well ! No need to input more!

 

[Henro]

I almost fell out of my chair laughing.

I tend to run mine in the 1800-2000 as well, depending on the work. Sometimes less, sometimes more if I want the speed or power. I’ve always understood that lower RPM can lead to more buildup in the dpf and require regens more often.

Same here. Max PTO rpm when using the brush hog. Maybe 2200 or a bit more when doing loader work and wanting to get done...Normally 1800 RPM or so, most of the time...

 

[Nicfin36]

I tend to run wide open much of the time because the L2501 runs lower RPMs anyway,

 

[Old_Paint]

I feel like I'm babying mine now. If I'm puttin' around in the yard with the trailer or moving light loads with the loader, I may not raise it above 1500. It's all I need for nearly max lift power, and I'm not racing with anyone when I climb on. If I need more, I give it more. I think I've barely gone through 5 gallons of diesel since I've owned it. For general purpose stuff like the box blade, though, typically around 1800 and use Low Range so I can control the speed and depth easier without making more bumps than I'm cutting. Lil' O ain't old enough yet for WOT, so just maintaining limits (<2100 RPM according to the Kubota bible) until the break-in period is done. This thing is stoopid strong at 1800. Can't imagine needing WOT, well at least not until I'm a lot more comfortable with the power. If I want higher RPM, I'm probably shifting to a lower range. RARELY put in it in H. Definitely not interested in competing with Space X for the first launched tractor. Might have the first adjustment when I get my stump bucket, though. Pretty well figuring on higher RPM for better lifting/pushing/chewing on roots.

 

[RCW]

random - - interesting thread....been debated here many...many...many times.

PTO RPM, WOT (wide open throttle), or BTTW (balls to the wall) were/are common responses. All good, because the last last thing you want to do is lug down a diesel engine.

Often folks would run one RPM for mowing (PTO), and maybe a lesser RPM for backhoe or loader work. Many compact tractor owners are novice operators for the hydraulic implements attached. Lower RPM made operation slower and more even.

In recent years with Tier IV emissions/electronic controls, those answers from years ago changed.

With an L3301 with Tier IV DPF engine, you need to maintain a certain RPM all the time. While it may not be PTO, WOT or BTTW, it needs to be significantly higher than a non-tier IV, even if towing a small trailer picking up leaves.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: Wide Open Throttle...as soon as the engine fires off at startup

good way to kill an engine.... especially if it's sat any length of time. No oil where it should be, so stuff gets scored and destroyed. HSTs need to be warmed up as well.
Usually the manual will say what the 'warmup' period should be and it'll vary from tractor to tractor

 

[RCW]

re: Wide Open Throttle...as soon as the engine fires off at startup good way to kill an engine.... especially if it's sat any length of time.

Good point, Jay. I blew snow tonight. Light 3+ inches.

About 28F. Idled for about 10 minutes to warm up, and got to about 2,500 RPM half way through.

I didn't need 3,200 RPM...easy work. I did need enough to do it.... If my BX were a DPF, I couldn't do it that way

 

[Tornado]

in reference to wide open as soon as the engine starts - I wouldn't personally do that. When a tractor first fires up, the engine is cold, the oil is cold, the hydraulic fluid is cold. When these fluids are cold they dont flow as easily, they are a little thicker, and thus dont lubricate as well. Because of this, you should always warm up a tractor before you go working it. The L2501 owners manual, if I recall correctly, suggests taking throttle to half way for warm up. Let it warm up a few minutes before working. Oil will be flowing better, and hydraulic fluid is warmed up and flowing, thus protecting all your internals. From that point on, if you want to work at 1800 or 2200 wide open RPM then its not really a big deal either way I think.

 

[Shadetree03]

Depends on working or playing. Retired now and not as much a rush to "get er done". Was around lots of big VT-12 Cummins back in the day running at 2100 RPM for hrs at a time turning out 600 BHP and doing a good job. Liked to see them work, but happy when they got idled back down.

For the little L2501 I'm happy to start it up at 1200 rpm, let it warm at 1400-1500 and cruise easy down the drive to warm up the HST- and only pull the throttle back to 1600-1800 (past peak on the torque curve) when I need it. When the weeds grow high again, I might open her up a little.

Just glad to have a non DPF as its noisy enough for me now

 

[BobInSD]

With my other tractors (all gas) I aimed for the 540 PTO speed, even when not using the PTO. But I would also cheat to get the speed I wanted in a particular gear. My JD had a throttle stop I set at PTO speed, but you could pull the knob out and "go to 11". I don't think I ever did that (other than when tuning it up) as my high HP needs (snowblower) would be defeated by increasing ground speed.

Depending on what I read here, I'll probably go with PTO speed on the Kubota also.

After warm up, of course.

 

[random]

This is likely going to start a big debate. We cant even offer suggestions to a guy on what the best 3pt. implement is to maintain his driveway without it running down a bunch of rabbit holes and nonsensical debates.

Definitely didn't want to start a debate! Was just wondering what others did. Personally I tend to run around 2000 for most tasks, and adjust as necessary depending on how the tractor responds.

 

[NHSleddog]

In order to save the planet, they want diesels running WOT all the time.

It was quite the salesman to sell the concept that running diesels at WOT all the time will save the planet while BURNING billions more gallons of oil. Hey if you can get them to swallow that, how about we talk them into burning millions of gallons of ANOTHER product sold in plastic bottles to save even more of the planet. - SMH

Manufacturers - WIN; more product more development and a LOT more service.
Big Oil - HUGE WIN; Billions more gallons needed to run WOT/DPF/DEF etc.
Retailers - WIN; Walmart etc. selling all the DEF and associated fluids.

Environment? I just don't see how.

I am all in favor of clean running diesel engines, I just think the current method was designed by oil companies and approved by their owned politicians.

 

[Freeheeler]

I throttle according to need. I don't have a dpf on mine (on purpose) so running full throttle all the time is senseless and expensive on fuel. I let it warm up for about one minute, that will get engine oil to where it needs to be. I let it warm up about 5 minutes before doing any heavy lifting since hydraulics work better with warm oil. As far as backhoe work, the more delicate the moves need to be, the slower the rpms, otherwise around 2100. I'll ramp up to 2500 or so if I need to tear out a root, rock, or just need that extra pressure. If I'm tooling around to get where I need to be and I'm not in a hurry, I generally run around 14-1600. Everyone will have a different opinion but that's what I do with my tractor. I also don't run full sprint to the mail box and back, I just walk normally. If I get chased by something bigger than me, I'll sprint ; )

 

[85Hokie]

Definitely didn't want to start a debate! Was just wondering what others did. Personally I tend to run around 2000 for most tasks, and adjust as necessary depending on how the tractor responds.

RPM's is a broad "range" question - so simply asking or saying what RPM should an engine be placed in to do a job is dependent on TOO many variables.

If we look at gasoline mowers - 95% of the time the throttle is placed in a "notch" that is almost 100% WOT - very rarely do we move a lawn mowers throttle once we start the cutting. Choke it and go!!

On a chainsaw - fire it up, let it idle a bit and then pull the trigger - again WTF open - max throttle! (Yeah I know, towards the end of a cut we might slow down - I do it all the time)

On cars - we vary the throttle to achieve a certain speed - Never hitting WOT. Well - rarely!

Now tractors are different gas and diesels engines - point noted, HOWEVER - the engine DESIGN are different across the board - the number associated with RPM is useless in a debate!

BUT the RPM percentage wise is what is more important - As a BX owner - the MAX WOT is 3300-3400 and I have been there many times, but there is a nice a fuzzy feeling between 2800-3000 - I find that 2200 is almost useless - so at 3000 RPM's I am using about 90% of the max RPM.

On the L2501 as mentioned several times in this thread the WOT is something like 2200 - Much larger engine than BX - and tuned down a bit to stay under the magic 26 hp EPA rating ..... so running around at 1900 RPM is about 85% of WOT.

SO the RPM's are meaning less - the real question should be - what % of WOT do you run your machine???

We cannot compare old style NON EPA engines to newer DPF and REGEN engines - they are on another level all together and cannot be "treated" in the same discussion due to the ability to run the engine cleanly.

AND the true answer is - where every it seems to work best for YOU !!!! (without babying it!)

I do find that those parts that are hydraulic in nature do not work well down near idle - and sometimes they can be too "fast" at WOT (swinging a boom/pivot on a hoe) - there is a "nice" range - but again the notion that one specific percent of WOT is best for all is ............ well - that can be debated all you wish - but again it simply boils down to the mindset of the operator!

And we know a mindset is terrible thing, once a notion is planted! Was I talking about diesels?

 

[bmblank]

In order to save the planet, they want diesels running WOT all the time.

It was quite the salesman to sell the concept that running diesels at WOT all the time will save the planet while BURNING billions more gallons of oil. Hey if you can get them to swallow that, how about we talk them into burning millions of gallons of ANOTHER product sold in plastic bottles to save even more of the planet. - SMH

Manufacturers - WIN; more product more development and a LOT more service.
Big Oil - HUGE WIN; Billions more gallons needed to run WOT/DPF/DEF etc.
Retailers - WIN; Walmart etc. selling all the DEF and associated fluids.

Environment? I just don't see how.

I am all in favor of clean running diesel engines, I just think the current method was designed by oil companies and approved by their owned politicians.

You forgot a line;

Consumers - LOSE

 

[BobInSD]

But "it's for the children" dontcha know?