Perfect. Thanks! For $60 all in, I don't think you can go wrong here. Did you use any thing in between the magnet to prevent scratching? I was thinking of something like this:
Nope. I didn't. They really don't move at all. You can force them to move/spin but they really aren't going anywhere easily. Don't get your finger between the magnet and ROPS.
I did have to replace the light brackets once. As you can see in my pic above, I used a nut (as a spacer) between the magnet and the light bracket because magnet stud was too long. The light brackets fatigued/cracked when running the three point stump grinder for three days. The vibration from the grinder was just too much for the light brackets not sitting flush against the magnet base.
The fix was to cut down the studs on the magnet and eliminate the nut "spacer". Now the light brackets sits flush against the magnet base. If you do the same, thread the nut on the stud all the way down to the magnet before cutting off excess stud. The nut will "chase" the threads for you when you back it off. (only added for clarity, some folks have never heard of that before).
I did purchase some additional wire in order to wire it they way I wanted. Its connected to the battery using the wiring harness and relay, with the switch mounted on the dash. Ran the wires along the chassis and up thru the bottom of the ROPS and out the factory hole in the top of the ROPS. It was pretty easy to do.
Wiring it that way, I can turn the lights on with ignition off. The switch included in the kit will glow bright red when the lights are on.
YMMV
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