Rental 3 pt. Auger Question

D2Cat

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If you're going with wood post I'd find hedge (osage orange). I've seen them up to 18-20" dia. used for gates and where fence makes a turn without a corner post. Out last steel, yet it's wood!!

If your really ant to secure a post for a gate, once the post is in the hole dig a trench (that would be perpendicular to the closed gate) on the gate side of the post. Lay a post horizontal in the trench right up against the upright post. That anchors the post from leaning over time.
 

hedgerow

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If you're going with wood post I'd find hedge (osage orange). I've seen them up to 18-20" dia. used for gates and where fence makes a turn without a corner post. Out last steel, yet it's wood!!

If your really ant to secure a post for a gate, once the post is in the hole dig a trench (that would be perpendicular to the closed gate) on the gate side of the post. Lay a post horizontal in the trench right up against the upright post. That anchors the post from leaning over time.
If he was a little closer to me I could set him up with a nice large hedge post to hang that gate on. We can't seem to buy treated post in this area that last and setting them in concrete makes them rot quicker. When I up date gates around here I use twenty foot gates and normally put two in if there is room. That way we never have a issue with any equipment even our combines. I have installed a lot of gates on hedge post with a H system and they aren't going any where. We pack post holes around here with one inch crusher run limestone. Lately we have been using more used drill stem in a H system and concrete the pipe in. I am getting close to being out of hedge logs to make post out of. On pasture fence we use a hedge post ever other one and T post for the rest. We will be using more drill stem instead of hedge going forward.
 
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The Evil Twin

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One trick to keep the gate from becoming drunk.
Near the bottom 1/3 of your post drill a 2" hole and put a piece of schedule 80 pipe though the hole and leave a tails that extends towards and away from the gate, the longer the tails the better.
You can even do a second the goes them the other direction to create and X and that will make a really strong base!
Oooh! Like a Christmas tree stand! Whatcha think about using 1/2" rebar? I have plenty of that, but no sch 80 pipe.
 

McMXi

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Personally I prefer steel posts over wood, but if you're setting wood in concrete, be sure to set the base of the post in gravel and use a membrane to prevent concrete from sealing off the bottom of the post which will cause it to rot. A metal cap on the top of the post can make a big difference to how long the post lasts as well.

I rented a PHD when I built the 10ft x 10ft deck for the hot tub in 2016 (see below) It was a standalone, counterbalanced unit on wheels and it worked well, even on a significant slope. I opted for the 12" auger and dug down at least 36" in order to place sonotubes.

I plan on replacing the POS deck on the house next year and will use steel posts set in concrete, but need to figure out how to get the M6060 and PHD to that side of the house without rolling the tractor.

01.jpg
 
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The Evil Twin

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Thanks all! I'm set. Couple weeks and we'll see if the 2501 can bore a 18" hole in Virginia clay. At least it's the wet season!
 
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JonM

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good luck!! and welcome to the aggravating world of fence posts!!!!
 
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jyoutz

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If he was a little closer to me I could set him up with a nice large hedge post to hang that gate on. We can't seem to buy treated post in this area that last and setting them in concrete makes them rot quicker. When I up date gates around here I use twenty foot gates and normally put two in if there is room. That way we never have a issue with any equipment even our combines. I have installed a lot of gates on hedge post with a H system and they aren't going any where. We pack post holes around here with one inch crusher run limestone. Lately we have been using more used drill stem in a H system and concrete the pipe in. I am getting close to being out of hedge logs to make post out of. On pasture fence we use a hedge post ever other one and T post for the rest. We will be using more drill stem instead of hedge going forward.
Drill stem pipe in concrete is the only thing I use now for gate posts. It’s a long term solution that holds up over time.
 

biketopia

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Thanks all! I'm set. Couple weeks and we'll see if the 2501 can bore a 18" hole in Virginia clay. At least it's the wet season!
The wet season...what weird vortex am I in just down the street from you?? We haven't had squat for rain and all the neighbors ponds are looking pretty low, if not empty.
 

KubotaHawg

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One trick to keep the gate from becoming drunk.
Near the bottom 1/3 of your post drill a 2" hole and put a piece of schedule 80 pipe though the hole and leave a tails that extends towards and away from the gate, the longer the tails the better.
You can even do a second the goes them the other direction to create and X and that will make a really strong base!
Rebar works well too, I do 4 at 90 degree angles as you go up from the bottom one—result is two X’s. Your plan will be more stable but a lot easier to drill 1/2” holes.

Edit: in either case, if the schedule 80 or rebar is touching/wedged into the dirt on the sides of your drilled holes it will be a lot more stable.
 

The Evil Twin

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The wet season...what weird vortex am I in just down the street from you?? We haven't had squat for rain and all the neighbors ponds are looking pretty low, if not empty.
We have been shy of rain, but 12-18" down the dirt is pretty moist. At least here. Nothing like the summer.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Thanks all! I'm set. Couple weeks and we'll see if the 2501 can bore a 18" hole in Virginia clay. At least it's the wet season!
Just remember to “peck” at it, instead of trying to "drill through it", and I think you’ll be fine.

Getting those things “stuck” (especially in clay) can be a major PITA……(BTDT….and got the T-shirt ;) )
 
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