relocated oil filter and possibly an oil cooler fitment.

[JosephGozo]

Hi.

Has anyone considered installing a remote engine oil filter kit on a B7001 tractor?
Not to advertise but I have ordered this:

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.ie

I would like to located the oil filter in front of the radiator and possibly add a small 15cm x 8 cm motorbike engine oil cooler like this:

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.ie

I have toyed with this idea for years to make it easy to change oil filter. 100hrs of work for me clock up fast and sometimes I have to change it within less than a month. It could also add as a cooling benefit.

thoughts?

I do not have many loved ones so If it reaches me before Xmas I may spend some times messing about with it to test it on the worn D750 before I transfer it to the thermosyphon D850 along with the automotive water pump.

joseph

 

[GeoHorn]

Thoughts?

Well…. I think they make some ridiculous and unsupported claims. I’m not sure how (slightly) lower oil temps cool the fuel to make it more dense…or reduces engine LOAD..(really?) … or lowers combustion chamber temperature..? or cleans combustion, iomproves emissions….blah blah blah

1. Cooling engine temperature, keeps the engine in the normal working temperature range, reduces engine load.
2. Quickly cooling engine oil, reduce engine wear and increase power.
3. Suitable for most motorcycles, dirt bike, ATV 100CC-250CC engines.
4. Professional manufacturing, high performance and durable. Make your vehicle work more efficient.
5. Fuel density is higher, so it is more efficient, more powerful and less expensive.
6. The combustion chamber injection temperature is low, so the load on the engine, injectors, and piston rings is low.
7. Clean combustion, improved emissions, and reduced NOx/HC/CO values.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I'm not against relocating an oil filter.

As a old school atv mudder I have done it in the past to get stock filters more out of the way of danger.

In front of radiator though would have me give a sober second thought as i also run a woodlot and would not want to put the extra oil lines in way of snags and filter in way of stick pokes. Potential of increasing a risk factor / increasing stuff in way of danger for little or no reason?

 

[85Hokie]

Not to throw a wet towel on the thought - but I too do not see the huge advantage of moving the filter. If I am correct, it is very similar if not the same as the US B7100.

Getting the oil filter off is not really a problem on the B7100 - sure there is a bit of mess dripping and cleaning of oil residue.

The only advantage as the filter body said that would be true is that you "could" place a larger capacity oil filter on it.

As for the oil - like all things in the engine - you DO want that oil to get hot, rather hot too, to burn off any condensation that has found its way into the pan. If your oil is getting about 230 F / 110 C and NO HOTTER then you are perfect as it sits.

Now if we were talking about relocated a FUEL filter on lets say a BX ......... shoooot I am ALL IN on that

 

[jaxs]

I'm with those above that are skeptical. Based on experience with diesel trucks operated by greenhorns I believe typical compact tractor owners could be better served by live data (coolant,oil and gear lub temperatures in this instance) and alarms than oil coolers. Overheating as result of improper gear and engine rpm is #1 diesel engine killer. I've preached that to everyone coming here with boiling over problems and those advocating experiments to find cause of boil over. My advice is PULL OVER AND STOP at first sign of overheat and if reason isn't obvious tow it to a pro mechanic or leave it parked. If i were moving the oil filter I would increase filter size at same time.

 

[GeoHorn]

I think the #1 heat problem in most diesel tractors is trash/hay/blocked radiators. Watch the temp gauge and get on down the row.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I can't see you gaining anything from it besides spending money that you don't need to.

Adding a water pump to a thermo siphon system will work in reverse if you don't add a thermostat to the system.

 

[mikester]

I guess if you've been maintaining that machine since 1978 you might have spent 100 hours doing oil changes by now. Whatever floats your boat...

 

[The Evil Twin]

Relocating a filter isn't that big of a deal. If it makes access easier, why not?
I wouldn't add an oil cooler though. If the manufacturer didn't, there probably isn't a need. Besides, without a thermostat to control flow, you could take too much heat out of the oil. Especially after first starting.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

More oil seems like a good thing too me, but too much cooling is not IMHO.

As pointed out previously, the oil needs to rid itself of water by warming up, so you might want to take that into consideration.

Edit: I'm not sure if you have a 'split oil pan" or not, but one of these "oil suckers" makes oil changes quick and easy for sure.

I got one for the boat, but quickly found that it works on certain cars as well and makes for a true 5 minute, no mess, oil change if your filter is going to be located on the 'top" of the motor.

There are cheaper options out there, but my buddy owns a marina and this Jabsco one is the one they use.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/jab17850-1012-jabsco-diy-oil-change-system-w-pump-and-35-gallo.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Nma-Kb4ggMV9NTCBB0l6g4hEAQYAiABEgIJ3vD_BwE

 

[The Evil Twin]

More oil seems like a good thing too me, but too much cooling is not IMHO.

As pointed out previously, the oil needs to rid itself of water by warming up, so you might want to take that into consideration.

Not to go off in the weeds, but more oil isn't necessarily a good thing. More oil means more heat energy. A larger volume of oil holds more heat. A 6.7 Cummins doesnt have 3 gallons of oil because its a good thing. It holds 3 gallons because that is what is needed to suspend the dirt for a reasonable oil change interval. Amongst other things, of course. There are some good articles in Machinery Lubrications web page on this.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

One word of "warning" for anyone that has a Dodge minivan and wants to use the "oil sucker"

On certain year Minivans (mine is an 18) you must "break the filter loose" first, or you will only get 5 quarts out due to there being some "suction" in the filter area.

Buy breaking this vacuum, it releases the last quart of oil in the top of the motor.

Just a friendly FYI

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Not to go off in the weeds, but more oil isn't necessarily a good thing. More oil means more heat energy. A larger volume of oil holds more heat. A 6.7 Cummins doesnt have 3 gallons of oil because its a good thing. It holds 3 gallons because that is what is needed to suspend the dirt for a reasonable oil change interval. Amongst other things, of course. There are some good articles in Machinery Lubrications web page on this.

Hmmm.....That's interesting.

I always "just assumed" that it was one of those things like Ketchup, "If a little is good, more must be better"

 

[The Evil Twin]

Hmmm.....That's interesting.

I always "just assumed" that it was one of those things like Ketchup, "If a little is good, more must be better"

Not Ketchup, but maybe BBQ

 

[Lil Foot]

I had a '95 Tacoma with a poorly placed oil filter, (messy to change) so I bought an oil filter relocation kit from Summit Racing.
It consisted of an adapter that screwed on in place of the oil filter, a pair of hoses, a mounting bracket, and a new boss to screw the relocated filter on.
It leaked all the time, because the hoses were so stiff, that they unscrewed the adapter from the block just enough to allow it to leak.
No amount of tightening would keep it in place for long.
Loctite did not work.
Changed the hoses to a softer compound; did not work.
Finally, after screwing with it for a year, I chucked the whole works in the trash.

 

[D2Cat]

I had an '83 Nissan Maxima diesel that required a contortionist monkey to change the oil filter. I installed a Frantz bypass filter and changed the TP filter every two weeks which took a few minutes standing by the left fender. I purchased a case (96 rolls) from a restaurant supply. Never had any trouble with the setup and sold the car with 365,000 miles still running. I never changed the factory filter after the first time and it was still on the car when I sold it.

I was so intrigued by the system I set up what they called a "triple stacker" that was designed for buses and over the road trucks to filter drained oil and burn in my '86 Ford diesel when fuel was $5 a gallon.

 

[GeoHorn]

My wife has a 2018 Toyota Sienna …that (like a lot of newer Toyotas)…went back to a “cartridge type” oil filter. I HATE THAT DAMN THING!

It’s very messy to change DESPITE the fact they added a special “drain plug” on the filter canister that does NOT work…. THen you must unscrew the canister…which rquires a special wrench because they designed it without a means to grab it without that special tool… THEN you end up with about a full cup of oil running everwhere (your hands, arm, and the ground) that did not drain when you activated that special drain-plug…. THEN they made that canister out of PLASTIC which failed by the second oil change and dumped the entire oil quantity on my garage floor. (This was an oil change performed by the dealer and at the end of a 40 mile drive home. It’s a MIRACLE it didn’t drop all that oil somewhere on the highway on the way home!)

Why Toyota did not continue to use a simple spin-on filter is beyond me !!! (And the cartridge costs just as much as a spin-on but relies upon a separate by-pass valve within the canister that must be carefully re-assembled each oil change.)

There’s an aftermarket METAL canister (by Dorman) with which I replaced that plastic one (similar to earlier metal ones which Toyota used on the vehicles that use the cartridge type.)

There’s also an adaptor which will convert the engine to a spin on filter…but it costs $400 and will add additional seams (opportunities for future leaks.)

Grrrrrr….

The opportunity to create hazards of additional leaks is one reason not to relocate the filter on that Kubota.

 

[Hkb82]

I’m with above on this one. Oil filter relocated sure why not try if your doing them once a month and it’s a pain in the a**. The oil cooler id probably not do. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

 

[Showmedata]

I used a similar adapter to relocate the filter on my MR-2 race car since I was changing the oil after every track day, and I also put an oil temp sensor in that sandwich block.

My oil temp readings were getting crazy high, so I installed a big oil cooler - still didn't solve the problem. It took me far too long to figure out that the aluminum sandwich block holding the temp sensor was right next to the exhaust manifold - so my oil wasn't really 285°, but that darned block sure was!

Once I relocated the temp sensor, I determined I didn't *really* need the oil cooler after all.

So I'm with the others - relocate for convenience yes, but a cooler is probably not called for.

 

[JosephGozo]

Thanks for the input.

I have always been a bit concerned about the coolant pump with no stat in it. But it keeps temps at around 85 degrees when under heavy load for long stretches.

as said The oil filter relocation is purely to help make it easy to change it. I will think about a good location where it is away from danger. I found this a better option than butchering the side panels. The tractor has a hydraulic pump at the front with a guard up front as well. I can add to it to protect the filter.

with regards to the oil cooler which is quite small in size, Malta is a bit hot and temperatures are rarely under 15'C I used to give it 15w40 engine oil but I have a drum of 10w40 diesel truck semi synthetic oil which is i could use in the D850 once installed.

i just over think my way through life I know. I need a little project like this because I am growing really dull