relocated oil filter and possibly an oil cooler fitment.

[Showmedata]

Thanks for the input.

I have always been a bit concerned about the coolant pump with no stat in it. But it keeps temps at around 85 degrees when under heavy load for long stretches.

as said The oil filter relocation is purely to help make it easy to change it. I will think about a good location where it is away from danger. I found this a better option than butchering the side panels. The tractor has a hydraulic pump at the front with a guard up front as well. I can add to it to protect the filter.

with regards to the oil cooler which is quite small in size, Malta is a bit hot and temperatures are rarely under 15'C I used to give it 15w40 engine oil but I have a drum of 10w40 diesel truck semi synthetic oil which is i could use in the D850 once installed.

i just over think my way through life I know. I need a little project like this because I am growing really dull

Love it. Do what makes you happy.

At my house the temperatures range from -30°C to +35°C, but I don't have to do tractor work when it's too hot

 

[mikester]

My wife has a 2018 Toyota Sienna …that (like a lot of newer Toyotas)…went back to a “cartridge type” oil filter. I HATE THAT DAMN THING!

It’s very messy to change DESPITE the fact they added a special “drain plug” on the filter canister that does NOT work…. THen you must unscrew the canister…which rquires a special wrench because they designed it without a means to grab it without that special tool… THEN you end up with about a full cup of oil running everwhere (your hands, arm, and the ground) that did not drain when you activated that special drain-plug…. THEN they made that canister out of PLASTIC which failed by the second oil change and dumped the entire oil quantity on my garage floor. (This was an oil change performed by the dealer and at the end of a 40 mile drive home. It’s a MIRACLE it didn’t drop all that oil somewhere on the highway on the way home!)

Why Toyota did not continue to use a simple spin-on filter is beyond me !!! (And the cartridge costs just as much as a spin-on but relies upon a separate by-pass valve within the canister that must be carefully re-assembled each oil change.)

There’s an aftermarket METAL canister (by Dorman) with which I replaced that plastic one (similar to earlier metal ones which Toyota used on the vehicles that use the cartridge type.)

There’s also an adaptor which will convert the engine to a spin on filter…but it costs $400 and will add additional seams (opportunities for future leaks.)

Grrrrrr….

The opportunity to create hazards of additional leaks is one reason not to relocate the filter on that Kubota.

Our prius has the oil filter cartridge and I like it. No special drain plug. No messier than a filter - actually one of the better cars for filter access and lack of splatter when removing the filter. The only negative is I had to buy the special filter cover remover tool.

I hate the HST filter on my M59 and ZD326. Hard to reach both of them. Some disassembly required on the M59 to get at the filter.

 

[jaxs]

I think the #1 heat problem in most diesel tractors is trash/hay/blocked radiators. Watch the temp gauge and get on down the row.

So that everyone receives maximum benefit from your experience, does that mean operator error is no concern and factory temperature gauges are reliable?

 

[GeoHorn]

So that everyone receives maximum benefit from your experience, does that mean operator error is no concern and factory temperature gauges are reliable?

If YOU are experiencing it…..perhaps, Mr. Snarky.

 

[D2Cat]

So that everyone receives maximum benefit from your experience, does that mean operator error is no concern and factory temperature gauges are reliable?

Geo. said, " I think the #1 heat problem in most diesel tractors is trash/hay/blocked radiators. Watch the temp gauge and get on down the row."

What he is saying is very true. An operator is responsible for proper maintenance to keep engine running properly which includes proper cooling. If someone has an ongoing problem with engine temperature an infrared thermometer can give data to determine what is/isn't happening.

In my experience Kubota factory gauges are as reliable as any similar product.

 

[JosephGozo]

hello

The adaptors arrived today. the mounting plate looks flimsy but if I push on with the idea (find time) I will fabricate something better. The two bolts at the side are for oil pressure and oil temperature senders Should I decide to install them.

I did fit a pressure gauge but i had to use 6 or so adaptors/reducers to clear the pressure sender away from the exhaust manifold.

I need to study well the way oil circulates within the oil filter to avoid messing up the filtration circuit

The linking lines will probably be metal lines (the sort used in hydraulic systems). Everything will be properly guarded. I have some OCD traits when it comes to these kind of things

In reply to the messages about over heating. It is heavily worked but things like radiator and oil levels are checked regularly

PS... the thread on the filter end looks ok.. filter tightens up well and evenly but on the adaptor that fits to the block it looks off and when i screw them up there is a gap... I guess I just threw away 40Euros doh. will see... will be collected dust
Sorry for the post

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

PS... the thread on the filter end looks ok.. filter tightens up well and evenly but on the adaptor that fits to the block it looks off and when i screw them up there is a gap... I guess I just threw away 40Euros doh. will see... will be collected dust
Sorry for the post

I hate it when I buy a part like this and it has manufacturing issues!

 

[GrizBota]

My wife has a 2018 Toyota Sienna …that (like a lot of newer Toyotas)…went back to a “cartridge type” oil filter. I HATE THAT DAMN THING!

It’s very messy to change DESPITE the fact they added a special “drain plug” on the filter canister that does NOT work…. THen you must unscrew the canister…which rquires a special wrench because they designed it without a means to grab it without that special tool… THEN you end up with about a full cup of oil running everwhere (your hands, arm, and the ground) that did not drain when you activated that special drain-plug…. THEN they made that canister out of PLASTIC which failed by the second oil change and dumped the entire oil quantity on my garage floor. (This was an oil change performed by the dealer and at the end of a 40 mile drive home. It’s a MIRACLE it didn’t drop all that oil somewhere on the highway on the way home!)

Why Toyota did not continue to use a simple spin-on filter is beyond me !!! (And the cartridge costs just as much as a spin-on but relies upon a separate by-pass valve within the canister that must be carefully re-assembled each oil change.)

There’s an aftermarket METAL canister (by Dorman) with which I replaced that plastic one (similar to earlier metal ones which Toyota used on the vehicles that use the cartridge type.)

There’s also an adaptor which will convert the engine to a spin on filter…but it costs $400 and will add additional seams (opportunities for future leaks.)

Grrrrrr….

The opportunity to create hazards of additional leaks is one reason not to relocate the filter on that Kubota.

Hear hear! I have a couple Tundras with that silly engine oil filter cartridge system. Way more problematic than the traditional spin on filter that was good enough for the first 5 decades Toyota imported cars to the US. I sort of think it might have started when Toyota started “making” cars in the US, non-J VINs. I suspect it was a capitulation to the environment front. Somehow the damn cartridges are more environmentally friendly (non counting the roll of papers towels used to clean up the damn mess)?

As to relocating the Kubota engine oil filter, I haven’t seen such a system that didn’t eventually cause a leak that wouldn’t have otherwise occurred.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hear hear! I have a couple Tundras with that silly engine oil filter cartridge system. Way more problematic than the traditional spin on filter that was good enough for the first 5 decades Toyota imported cars to the US. I sort of think it might have started when Toyota started “making” cars in the US, non-J VINs. I suspect it was a capitulation to the environment front. Somehow the damn cartridges are more environmentally friendly (non counting the roll of papers towels used to clean up the damn mess)?

As to relocating the Kubota engine oil filter, I haven’t seen such a system that didn’t eventually cause a leak that wouldn’t have otherwise occurred.

Europeans like cartridges.

I have two 3 series BMWs and one X Series. The filter housings are located on top of the engine just behind the radiator - extremely easy to access and service and totally mess free.

I had two Cadillac Cateras which are psimply rebadged Opels. The cartridges were on the side of the engine down low and a messy PITA to change.

I have a 1941 Ford 2N and a 1951 Ford 8N. The filter housings are on the side of the engine. Easy to service and mess free.

I much prefer the BMW housing location and design over any spin on I ever saw. The ancient Fords are a close second

I also think the return to cartridges is driven by simplicity and cost.

YMMV,

Dan

 

[Showmedata]

I have two 3 series BMWs and one X Series. The filter housings are located on top of the engine just behind the radiator - extremely easy to access and service and totally mess free.

Yep. And with a vacuum extractor you can complete the oil change without ever getting under the vehicle.

The Toyota and VW cartridge housings with a drain feature really do reduce the mess, when properly used.

 

[GrizBota]

Yep. And with a vacuum extractor you can complete the oil change without ever getting under the vehicle.

The Toyota and VW cartridge housings with a drain feature really do reduce the mess, when properly used.

I must need to learn how to do an oil change properly on one of these cartridge filters my Tundra has. I have done 47 oil changes with that system in the last 15 years and a similar number of oil changes with conventional spin on filters in that time frame (and at least that many prior to the last 15 years), so somewhere around 150 DIY oil changes on cars and trucks and probably another 50ish on small engines (some of which have a cartridge). My experience is both systems make about an equal mess, with the engines I’ve done these oil changes on. They both cost about the same as well. Maybe I’ll get better at it in another couple hundred (oil changes or years, we’ll see).

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I must need to learn how to do an oil change properly on one of these cartridge filters my Tundra has. I have done 47 oil changes with that system in the last 15 years and a similar number of oil changes with conventional spin on filters in that time frame (and at least that many prior to the last 15 years), so somewhere around 150 DIY oil changes on cars and trucks and probably another 50ish on small engines (some of which have a cartridge). My experience is both systems make about an equal mess, with the engines I’ve done these oil changes on. They both cost about the same as well. Maybe I’ll get better at it in another couple hundred (oil changes or years, we’ll see).

Griz, do you have a vacuum extractor? I think that's the key to being "mess free and fast".

I ask, because my wife's minivan has a "top loading" cartridge filter, and with that extractor, it takes just a few minutes (with warm oil) and the only mess I have is if I spill some when refilling.

The down side to the vacuum oil extractor is that I don't have to put it on the hoist, so my "preventative inspections' have suffered a little.

 

[fried1765]

More oil seems like a good thing too me, but too much cooling is not IMHO.

As pointed out previously, the oil needs to rid itself of water by warming up, so you might want to take that into consideration.

Edit: I'm not sure if you have a 'split oil pan" or not, but one of these "oil suckers" makes oil changes quick and easy for sure.

I got one for the boat, but quickly found that it works on certain cars as well and makes for a true 5 minute, no mess, oil change if your filter is going to be located on the 'top" of the motor.

There are cheaper options out there, but my buddy owns a marina and this Jabsco one is the one they use.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/jab178...MI6Nma-Kb4ggMV9NTCBB0l6g4hEAQYAiABEgIJ3vD_BwE

12V engine oil drain pump = $24.99 on Amazon
I have used one for years.
Very handy, if car has top mounted filter.

 

[GrizBota]

Griz, do you have a vacuum extractor? I think that's the key to being "mess free and fast".

I ask, because my wife's minivan has a "top loading" cartridge filter, and with that extractor, it takes just a few minutes (with warm oil) and the only mess I have is if I spill some when refilling.

The down side to the vacuum oil extractor is that I don't have to put it on the hoist, so my "preventative inspections' have suffered a little.

I do, a HF manual one. I’ve never made bigger messes in my life than I have with that thing. But it’s when I use it to install fluids in shallow containers and it bubbles after all the fluid is delivered. I just don’t use it for that any more.

As to messy oil changes, most of it is from the filters. The clean up gives me a good excuse to wipe down everything else with in reach.

I do my own oil changes for two reasons, I don’t trust others not to screw it up, it gives me a good opportunity to inspect under the vehicle.

I rotate tires at the same time, so I inspect all the brake and suspension components every time as well. Not too many wear components sneak up on me that way. A minor consideration is that overall, it’s less time than probably two appointments in town. Plus I’ll usually do two rigs back to back. I can rotate the tires on the cars faster than I could drive to town and hand them the keys. Oh and I know someone that understands how a torque wrench works torqued the wheels properly.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I do, a HF manual one. I’ve never made bigger messes in my life than I have with that thing. But it’s when I use it to install fluids in shallow containers and it bubbles after all the fluid is delivered. I just don’t use it for that any more.

As to messy oil changes, most of it is from the filters. The clean up gives me a good excuse to wipe down everything else with in reach.

I do my own oil changes for two reasons, I don’t trust others not to screw it up, it gives me a good opportunity to inspect under the vehicle.

I rotate tires at the same time, so I inspect all the brake and suspension components every time as well. Not too many wear components sneak up on me that way. A minor consideration is that overall, it’s less time than probably two appointments in town. Plus I’ll usually do two rigs back to back. I can rotate the tires on the cars faster than I could drive to town and hand them the keys. Oh and I know someone that understands how a torque wrench works torqued the wheels properly.

Wow, thats surprising. I have never done a cleaner/faster oil change since I got one....

You're clearly very competent, so I guess we chalk this one up to, "different strokes for different folks"

But, I do agree that my tire rotations and other preventative inspections have suffered.

 

[GrizBota]

Wow, thats surprising. I have never done a cleaner/faster oil change since I got one....

You're clearly very competent, so I guess we chalk this one up to, "different strokes for different folks"

But, I do agree that my tire rotations and other preventative inspections have suffered.

I suspect the orientation and location of the oil filters amoungst different vehicle’s probably impacts how big a mess is made when a filter is removed. My brother’s Challenger has the oil filter right on top of the engine (left, rear IIRC). I believe it’s a cartridge style. He said it make no mess at all as the oil drains in to the engine and I think there’s a collar around the assembly to make sure no oil can leak down around the outside of the housing.

 

[Showmedata]

I suspect the orientation and location of the oil filters amoungst different vehicle’s probably impacts how big a mess is made when a filter is removed. My brother’s Challenger has the oil filter right on top of the engine (left, rear IIRC). I believe it’s a cartridge style. He said it make no mess at all as the oil drains in to the engine and I think there’s a collar around the assembly to make sure no oil can leak down around the outside of the housing.

For sure the orientation makes all the difference. My wife's Mercedes had a top-mounted one like the dodge that was flawless. I've done a lot of VWs and Toyotas that aren't as nice, but I find that using the housing drain generally reduces the mess that comes with taking off the housing (or a can filter). My Porsche has a cartridge filter, but it's under the engine and doesn't drain so it's just as messy as a can-style.

I'm no professional, but I do a handful of oil changes on various cars every month helping out with a charity car maintenance program (in addition to my own vehicles).

 

[CGMKCM]

I would love to have a remote mounted oil filter and a remote oil drain installed on my RTV X1140c.