Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Recovered B8200 - Found abandoned
- Thread starter morecoffeeplz
- Start date
Wow thanks for the awesome contributions. You guys are great.
I’m one of those don’t ask don’t tell guys but if the outlay in bringing this little gal to life looks substantial I’ll check around on title.
i’m down here in the state of Texas, and this definitely qualifies as abandoned property. As best I can put together it was left on the owners property for around eight years.
i’ve looked it over numerous times, pondering what happened to it over the last eight years and it appears that the owner pulled the battery and the keys and left it. Someone came along and fold around and took off the fuel tank cap and it rained in the tank. so I think it was driven to where it’s at and left.
I am concerned a little bit about rainwater that might have gone down the muffler, and possibly into the header or the valve ports. Not sure what impact that has on tractors as I’ve never owned a tractor before. Just run them.
Plan to start wrenching on it tomorrow (12/20). Will post updates and maybe a video when she gets lit up.
Here’s my current “tractor”….she needs a little orange friend to help out.
I’m one of those don’t ask don’t tell guys but if the outlay in bringing this little gal to life looks substantial I’ll check around on title.
i’m down here in the state of Texas, and this definitely qualifies as abandoned property. As best I can put together it was left on the owners property for around eight years.
i’ve looked it over numerous times, pondering what happened to it over the last eight years and it appears that the owner pulled the battery and the keys and left it. Someone came along and fold around and took off the fuel tank cap and it rained in the tank. so I think it was driven to where it’s at and left.
I am concerned a little bit about rainwater that might have gone down the muffler, and possibly into the header or the valve ports. Not sure what impact that has on tractors as I’ve never owned a tractor before. Just run them.
Plan to start wrenching on it tomorrow (12/20). Will post updates and maybe a video when she gets lit up.
Here’s my current “tractor”….she needs a little orange friend to help out.
A couple of things. 1. There are no title for tractors, so don't bother looking. 2. Many of the tractors had a small hole in the bottom of the exhaust manifold. This allowed moisture build up (rain in the exhaust) to drain out. If you're concerned about moisture in the cylinders you might make a mixture of 50/50 auto trans. fluid and acetone and pour it down the exhaust pipe. If it doesn't run out the bottom it will go the same place the water did and help free it up.
The fuel cap was probably removed by some body just messing with the machine, being mischievous!
You're running some nice equipment!!
The fuel cap was probably removed by some body just messing with the machine, being mischievous!
You're running some nice equipment!!
If water got into the cylinders, and rusted the rings and cylinder walls, you would be better off not running it until you took the engine apart and honed the cylinder walls, and installed new rings. It might start and run for a while, but the rust will take out the rings and ruin the engine. A lot depends on what you feel comfortable doing. If you have the time and the knowledge/inclination to pull the head, that is what I would do unless you are willing to take the chance that the tractor might be scrap iron if the engine peters out. I have dealt with old cars that have been left in damp storage for years, and have learned that it is faster to do it correctly the first time than it is to repair it after the damage is done that could have been prevented originally. If you have a bore scope, you might be able to get a lot better idea of the condition without a lot of work first.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I agree with you.
Borescope cameras with light that hook up to phones are pretty cheap nowadays.
Well crud...the idea of inspecting the engine internals before firing up is bothersome. I hate to tear it down just to find out. A borescope would get me into the exhaust manifold but not much further. I could pull the exhaust manifold and take a look at the ports.
Any recommendation on borescope? I bought one off Amazon a few years back that connects to your phone and it was junk.
I really want to just light her up and see to be honest. I noticed an engine rebuild kit on ebay is like $500. I leaning toward just firing it and seeing of she works out over some period of time. If not, and if all other systems work out, then I'd probably rebuild the motor.
Can you guys help me read this hour meter? I'm reading 306 hrs. There are only 3 counters and then fraction of hour counter. If it''s 306 there is no way to tell how many times it's rolled past 999?
Engine decompression linkage is bound up and the engine shutoff cable is broke off and 90% gone.
Not seeing any kind of exhaust pinhole for water to leak out. Bummer...
Any recommendation on borescope? I bought one off Amazon a few years back that connects to your phone and it was junk.
I really want to just light her up and see to be honest. I noticed an engine rebuild kit on ebay is like $500. I leaning toward just firing it and seeing of she works out over some period of time. If not, and if all other systems work out, then I'd probably rebuild the motor.
Can you guys help me read this hour meter? I'm reading 306 hrs. There are only 3 counters and then fraction of hour counter. If it''s 306 there is no way to tell how many times it's rolled past 999?
Engine decompression linkage is bound up and the engine shutoff cable is broke off and 90% gone.
Not seeing any kind of exhaust pinhole for water to leak out. Bummer...
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
I am not sure I'd be too worried about the whole borescope thing. Will it roll over by hand or using a wrench?
THAT would be the first thing I'd do.
Nice find. That would never happen here - - or if it did, it would be a dark reddish brown flakey mess and could very well take a mechanical coroner to ID it as a tractor.
THAT would be the first thing I'd do.
Nice find. That would never happen here - - or if it did, it would be a dark reddish brown flakey mess and could very well take a mechanical coroner to ID it as a tractor.
May have been used to bury a mafia body or two thoughPrice was right and I will bet a fair amount of money its not stolen or ever used to smuggle narcotics
Dan
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
A compression test would tell you more than a borescope would. If you are set on a borescope, there is an economical borescope that is common in the rifle world. I would have to look it up to remember the brand name.
Dump the acetone/AT fluid mixture in the exhaust and let it soak while you working on the other items. When ready, remove glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand. This will tell you if the engine is free and blow out the "juice". Then crank it with to battery to fire it off.
Hours are probably the 306 on the hour meter. Just rode hard and put to bed wet!!
Here's my neighbor's old Allis D17. It set for years with uncovered exhaust and rusted up exhaust pipe. We put the mixture in it and let it set for a few weeks. He turned it over with a wrench/cheater bar (with spark plugs removed) and finally for it to fire off. It's been running for 2 years now. Here he is washing it after mowing.
Attachments
I’m
The thanks D2Cat. I’ll give this method a try. It turns over with a break over bar easily.
Have you checked the oil for water? Since it’s turning over easily with a breaker bar, I’d be inclined to move forward with attempting to start it. If you add any type of lubricant to the cylinders just be sure to spin the motor over without the injectors to clear them out, you don’t want a hydro lock.
Mike
Mike the dipstick shows full and black. No evidence of water. Needs a change if she runs but no water.
I’ve never worked on diesels. Just gas. That is one reason I want this little guy to run. Good opportunity to learn. Is pulling the injectors as simple as it sounds? Any replacement seals or o-rings needs in advance once you crack the fuel lines open and start pulling injectors?
HOPEFULLY this week is my opportunity to work on the project. Work and family gatherings are done so time to get crack’n.
I’ll post up some pics for sure.
I’ll post up some pics for sure.
I'd leave the injectors alone until it's running and you can evaluate how it's running. May not need to mess with them if the hour meter is correct.
You can remove the glow plugs to clear the cylinders of any fluid before starting.
You can remove the glow plugs to clear the cylinders of any fluid before starting.
I agree with not removing the injectors ( my suggestion to remove was only if a cylinder lubricant was added).
Mike
I think addressing the fuel system first would be advised. If the tank isn’t too difficult to remove I’d pull It, empty and clean. I’d replace fuel filter too (fill the new one with diesel and install if possible). You will need a good battery and possibly a jump pack, it’s probably going to take a lot of cranking to get fresh fuel through the system. Don’t overuse the starter, allow it to cool off between cranking, you don’t want to burn it up. I’d research the fuel system, watch some YouTube videos of people bleeding diesel tractor fuel systems. Hopefully someone with a similar tractor can give you pointers. Some diesel tractors use a “lift pump” before the injection pump, (small electric pump) or a manual primer pump, I have no experience with your model tractor so I can’t advise if you have either.
Mike
Mike