Recovered B8200 - Found abandoned

[Russell King]

There is a copper crush washer underneath the injectors that should be replaced if the injectors are removed. The injectors need to be tightened to the correct torque value so you need a deep socket.

There are some rubber hoses between the injectors that may be age rotten

The glow plugs have no sealing washer on them on my tractor so doubt that yours would.

Kubota USA dot com has the illustrated parts list.
Kubotabooks dot com may have the workshop manuals

 

[D2Cat]

The copper washers can be annealed and reused. Heat until red hot and cool slowly. I'm sure you can find a Youtube video on the details.

 

[Talkstogoats]

I've got that same tractor sitting in the barn... Bought it new in 1981 and it's still going strong.
The fuel tank is metal, easy to get to and easy to remove for a good cleaning....
Outside of that, and a new fuel filter, you should be fine...
The switch turns left to heat the glow plug (you'll see it turn color in the view hole) and right to start. Make sure the decompression knob is pushed all the way in.
Pull it out to shut off as the switch doesn't control the running.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

I think addressing the fuel system first would be advised. If the tank isn’t too difficult to remove I’d pull It, empty and clean. I’d replace fuel filter too (fill the new one with diesel and install if possible). You will need a good battery and possibly a jump pack, it’s probably going to take a lot of cranking to get fresh fuel through the system. Don’t overuse the starter, allow it to cool off between cranking, you don’t want to burn it up. I’d research the fuel system, watch some YouTube videos of people bleeding diesel tractor fuel systems. Hopefully someone with a similar tractor can give you pointers. Some diesel tractors use a “lift pump” before the injection pump, (small electric pump) or a manual primer pump, I have no experience with your model tractor so I can’t advise if you have either.

Mike

Mike great minds think alike. I had done this back a week ago. I follow Diesel Creek on YouTube and he just went thru this on a subcompact tractor. I plan to pull the tank and clean it then replace all the fuel lines up to the fuel pump and the return lines back to the tank. I was then going to prime everything up to the injectors, and try to flush out anything that was in the lines before firing up.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

Plot thickens….

Just got home and moved her closer to the “shop” with the Kawasaki Mule Pro to get ready for the examination. Found the transmission dipstick. Nothing showing on it.

I do see oil stained leaves where I had it parked BUT I was spraying a bunch of PB Blaster in various areas so not sure what’s going on.

I guess I should go get a bucket of hydraulic fluid before starting. What do you guys recommend? I have O’Reillys and Auto Zone in area.

 

[DustyRusty]

I would recommend getting it running first, and if it fires up, then put the hydraulic oil into the tractor. You don't have to keep it running, but if it fires up, then shut it down, and get the hydraulic oil. In fact, I wouldn't spend the money on new lines, unless they are rusted through. There is a good chance that they are fine. Unlike brake lines, the fuel lines don't usually rust out from the inside.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

I would recommend getting it running first, and if it fires up, then put the hydraulic oil into the tractor. You don't have to keep it running, but if it fires up, then shut it down, and get the hydraulic oil. In fact, I wouldn't spend the money on new lines, unless they are rusted through. There is a good chance that they are fine. Unlike brake lines, the fuel lines don't usually rust out from the inside.

Got it.
The fuel lines are rubber hose. The return lines are cracked and need to be replaced prior to running or they are going to spray everywhere I think.

 

[DustyRusty]

Thought that you were referring to replacing steel lines. Replace all rubber even if it looks good. Saves you a lot of time looking for leaks later on.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Reasonably priced and fully compatible hydraulic fluid would be Mystik JT5.
DO NOT use cheap generic hydraulic fluid, you'll only have issues down the line.
I agree with getting it running first then adding hydraulic fluid.

If you added Acetone / ATF to the exhaust, remove the glow plugs not the injectors.
For one because it's far easier, but it also will allow all the fluid to safely come out of the cylinders.
The injectors do not directly go to the cylinders, they go to a pre-chamber then to the cylinders.

Clean the tank and replace all the rubber lines.
Leave the line loose from the side of the injection pump, fill the tank and it should allow you to gravity feed from the tank through the filter, through the lift pump then out, connect that line leaving the Jet start valve open that is on the inlet fitting to the injection pump.
Crack all the injector lines at the tops of the injectors, you will need to bleed all the air out.
Set the throttle to high and crank in short runs till you get good fuel flow then tighten the line.
The shut off to kill the tractor is on the right hand side under the dash.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Make sure the decompression knob is pushed all the way in.
Pull it out to shut off as the switch doesn't control the running.

Really crazy that you've been stopping it since new with the decompression knob.
You should NOT be using the decompression knob to stop the engine.
You should be using the stop knob on the right lower side of the dash.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

Reasonably priced and fully compatible hydraulic fluid would be Mystik JT5.
DO NOT use cheap generic hydraulic fluid, you'll only have issues down the line.
I agree with getting it running first then adding hydraulic fluid.

If you added Acetone / ATF to the exhaust, remove the glow plugs not the injectors.
For one because it's far easier, but it also will allow all the fluid to safely come out of the cylinders.
The injectors do not directly go to the cylinders, they go to a pre-chamber then to the cylinders.

Clean the tank and replace all the rubber lines.
Leave the line loose from the side of the injection pump, fill the tank and it should allow you to gravity feed from the tank through the filter, through the lift pump then out, connect that line leaving the Jet start valve open that is on the inlet fitting to the injection pump.
Crack all the injector lines at the tops of the injectors, you will need to bleed all the air out.
Set the throttle to high and crank in short runs till you get good fuel flow then tighten the line.
The shut off to kill the tractor is on the right hand side under the dash.

Thank you for the details here. I was sure on the fuel line bleeding but this helps a lot!!

The cables with knobs on the lower dash are both messed up. The stop engine knob is broke and 1/2 gone. The decompression knob and cable are froze up. Both will get replaced if she runs and is worth keeping. For the time being I’ll just manually pull the engine stop arm on the engine.

 

[woodman55]

Considering it's been sitting outside unused for who knows how long. I think I would crack all the drain plugs and see what comes out, just a few drops to see if it's decent oil, or something else like water, sludge, etc.

 

[mike0000]

Considering it's been sitting outside unused for who knows how long. I think I would crack all the drain plugs and see what comes out, just a few drops to see if it's decent oil, or something else like water, sludge, etc.

That’s a good point, water will separate from the oil and typically settle to the bottom over time.

 

[Talkstogoats]

Really crazy that you've been stopping it since new with the decompression knob.
You should NOT be using the decompression knob to stop the engine.
You should be using the stop knob on the right lower side of the dash.

That's the one.... The very same knob that the dealer called the "decompression knob"...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's the one.... The very same knob that the dealer called the "decompression knob"...

The decompression knob is normally top left in the dash.
Note: Very few B8200 came equipped with the decompression option, they had already started to do away with them very early in production.
Also a lot of B7100's don't have that option either.
It wasn't needed with new battery tech of the time.

If in doubt look at the rear of the valve cover, if it has decompression it will have a lever out of the back of the cover, with a cable attached to it.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

The decompression knob is normally top left in the dash.
Note: Very few B8200 came equipped with the decompression option, they had already started to do away with them very early in production.
Also a lot of B7100's don't have that option either.
It wasn't needed with new battery tech of the time.

If in doubt look at the rear of the valve cover, if it has decompression it will have a lever out of the back of the cover, with a cable attached to it.

Mine has one! I’ll post a pic tomorrow. It’s on the lower left corner under dash. Also has or shall I say HAD a red pull knob for engine shutoff.

Manual discourages the years of the decompression knob to shut off the engine.

 

[morecoffeeplz]

 

[Talkstogoats]

Well according to that, I've been pulling the "stop knob".
There is no knob on the left on mine.
In 1981 when I bought it new at the dealer, he called it a "decompression" knob... I lost the manual shortly after purchase when we moved to a new place.
That little tractor has been going pretty much year round since 1981.... no notes, but it has averaged at least 200 hours each year.
Fluid changes, a couple new batteries, a new water pump - that's been pretty much it....

 

[morecoffeeplz]

Well according to that, I've been pulling the "stop knob".
There is no knob on the left on mine.
In 1981 when I bought it new at the dealer, he called it a "decompression" knob... I lost the manual shortly after purchase when we moved to a new place.
That little tractor has been going pretty much year round since 1981.... no notes, but it has averaged at least 200 hours each year.
Fluid changes, a couple new batteries, a new water pump - that's been pretty much it....

Ok makes sense.
Any pics of yours to share?

 

[Talkstogoats]

LOL .... not really, back in the 80's I was putting everything on slides.
Old girl is looking pretty rough these days. If I take her picture now she might stop talking to me.
Editing to tell the world I am such a maroon... (purposely spelled wrong, so as not to trigger all the other morons out there...)
my dash is exactly as that manual illustration shows. I do have a bottom left actual decompression knob (that I have never used).
I was thinking of the empty hole bracket to the inside of that when I said I didn't have one.
Duh....
41 years and I can't visualise my own machine....
Guess that happens when everything is such that you just jump on and go.
Ol girl got a good hour warm up running a scratch harrow around busting up horse apples in the pasture today....
Now... Back to the OP...
Get that new find running and put her to work!
Good luck!