Don't be overly concerned about those leaks. They keep the rust down!
Recovered B8200 - Found abandoned
- Thread starter morecoffeeplz
- Start date
Reminds me of the old Harley-Davidson saying "If it ain't leaking oil, it must be out of oil" One of my old service managers determined if it was a warranty leak by 3 drops within a hour on the ground!!!!! She quickly pissed off a few customer's. I would get the tractor running and do a few projects with it before fixing everything as some seals will seal back up with use. Or use degreaser and wash it very good(careful with pressure washer if using(replaced a few fuse boxes due to a inexperienced detailer), then you will be able to see how bad that leak/seep really is. Buddy has a Lexus with 200k that has a leaking VVT camshaft seal leak. Book time was like 16 hours to replace seal, leak was not that bad after that quote to fix.
Loader works! But I have an issue. Do they still sell these steel hydraulic lines?
It looks like one of the previous owners had tied chains around the loader, crossmember and crushed the lines. But just as well it appears that they have been rusty, and eventually gave out.
It looks like one of the previous owners had tied chains around the loader, crossmember and crushed the lines. But just as well it appears that they have been rusty, and eventually gave out.
If they don’t sell these hydraulic steel lines anymore, I may have to get my son to cut and TIG in replacements sections.
On another note… Dot The 3- point hitch does not come up .
Maybe I just don’t know how to work it, but when I lift the crescent wrench lever, it just groans.
On another note… Dot The 3- point hitch does not come up .
Maybe I just don’t know how to work it, but when I lift the crescent wrench lever, it just groans.My guess would be, IF, they are available once you see the price you will decide to fix them.If they don’t sell these hydraulic steel lines anymore, I may have to get my son to cut and TIG in replacements sections.
On another note… Dot The 3- point hitch does not come up .
Basically, I think the problem was that I did not have it completely bled. I must admit it did take quite a bit of cranking. It had fuel returning back to the tank and still it wasn’t bled.
It was throwing me off but it finally cleared up and it runs nicely actually.It took 2 1/2 gallons of hydraulic fluid today just to get it to start to show on the dipstick.
I ended up leaking a quart out while testing the loader.
What leaked little milky, so I suspect that I have to drain the whole thing to get water out of it and refill it.
I noticed that they do have the steel hydraulic lines available on Messicks. It looks like all four of them will run about $700 before tax and shipping. My plan is to find one or two that are currently leaking and just replace those for now. If it turns out to be a permanent fixture around here, I’ll end up replacing the other ones I’m sure.
I ended up leaking a quart out while testing the loader.
What leaked little milky, so I suspect that I have to drain the whole thing to get water out of it and refill it.
I noticed that they do have the steel hydraulic lines available on Messicks. It looks like all four of them will run about $700 before tax and shipping. My plan is to find one or two that are currently leaking and just replace those for now. If it turns out to be a permanent fixture around here, I’ll end up replacing the other ones I’m sure.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I would think it a bad idea to try to "tig in replacements"If they don’t sell these hydraulic steel lines anymore, I may have to get my son to cut and TIG in replacements sections.
On another note… Dot The 3- point hitch does not come up .
A local hydraulics shop could make those lines for you, or depending on your own capabilities you could make them.
Give that leaked oil a day to settle out, this will let you know if the oil was just aerated or actually contains water.
You need to find a shop that has a hydraulic tubing bender and bring them an old one to duplicate. I had a problem with my Mercedes that had hydraulic shocks that were powered by the power steering pump and the pipe was crushed in an accident. The body shop repaired the body damage, but I had to take the car to an MB dealership about 100 miles away that had the equipment to bend the new pipe. MB in their infinite wisdom only provided a straight pipe with the nuts and flair on the ends and needed to be bent to get it into the vehicle.
My B1630 loader was in the same state as this one is - crushed and rusty lines. I'm using this as an opportunity to learn a new skill and to bend and flare some new stainless lines with new fittings. I'm basically rebuilding the loader hydraulics from scratch and reusing the arms, uprights, and bucket.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
"Vevor" pipe/tubing bender ...$130 - Amazon
Will make perfect SS tubing bends.
Well worth the price, compared to paying someone else for hyd. lines.
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Since some of those hard lines meet steel blocks at either end of that middle section, it should be fairly easy to repair those by welding fittings to the steel blocks (which will be much easier to weld to since they have a lot more mass) and then just doing some good old hydraulic flare fittings on some new straight sections of hard line.
Or, to be honest, you COULD just weld fittings to those blocks and replace the middle sections with pre-made hose! You would just want to install a hard cover (4" steel channel is my first thought) to prevent them from being cut by a load falling on them.
And.. honestly.. lol.. you probably could just tap npt threads into those blocks and then just screw in NPT fittings to them instead of welding anything at all!
I love my b8200 loader. It'll be worth it!
Or, to be honest, you COULD just weld fittings to those blocks and replace the middle sections with pre-made hose! You would just want to install a hard cover (4" steel channel is my first thought) to prevent them from being cut by a load falling on them.
And.. honestly.. lol.. you probably could just tap npt threads into those blocks and then just screw in NPT fittings to them instead of welding anything at all!
I love my b8200 loader. It'll be worth it!
UPDATE:::::
Over the past 3-4 weeks progress has been made. I ended up taking the steel lines and related hydraulic hoses, the control the bucket of President scoop and dump functions down to the hydraulic line store and getting them completely rebuilt all new. $700 later and the loader is fully functional and working. About 1/2 of the grease zerts I have tried to live are rusted and locked. Will need to replace these.
I drain the entire hydraulic system, clean the screen, and refilled with all new fluid. So the hydraulic system is working really well. I was able to fix the leak down at the screen by simply tightening the nut fully.
The gear selector boot had dry rotted and cracked, which was what I think caused water to get down inside the transmission. I put a new boot on and have sealed that up.
The steering has a tremendous amount of play in it. Any idea on what I could do to tighten this up? Also, do you know if there is a power steering add on kit?
The only thing that’s not functioning is the three point hitch. I’ve tried everything, and it simply does not come up. It is in the fully down position. I noticed that there is a directional valve nut that you can turn, which seems to control the hydraulics. I played around with it in a matter which way I turn it, it does not lift the three point hitch. I’m not sure where to leave and start to look to start to chase this down. I am only interested in keeping this tractor for mowing if I could get the 3-point hitch to function. Any ideas?
Over the past 3-4 weeks progress has been made. I ended up taking the steel lines and related hydraulic hoses, the control the bucket of President scoop and dump functions down to the hydraulic line store and getting them completely rebuilt all new. $700 later and the loader is fully functional and working. About 1/2 of the grease zerts I have tried to live are rusted and locked. Will need to replace these.
I drain the entire hydraulic system, clean the screen, and refilled with all new fluid. So the hydraulic system is working really well. I was able to fix the leak down at the screen by simply tightening the nut fully.
The gear selector boot had dry rotted and cracked, which was what I think caused water to get down inside the transmission. I put a new boot on and have sealed that up.
The steering has a tremendous amount of play in it. Any idea on what I could do to tighten this up? Also, do you know if there is a power steering add on kit?
The only thing that’s not functioning is the three point hitch. I’ve tried everything, and it simply does not come up. It is in the fully down position. I noticed that there is a directional valve nut that you can turn, which seems to control the hydraulics. I played around with it in a matter which way I turn it, it does not lift the three point hitch. I’m not sure where to leave and start to look to start to chase this down. I am only interested in keeping this tractor for mowing if I could get the 3-point hitch to function. Any ideas?
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Need some pictures of how the loader hydraulics are hooked up to it.
There was a PS add on for that model but it's long obsolete.
There are some things you could add to it, but they are not a simple bolt on unit.
There was a PS add on for that model but it's long obsolete.
There are some things you could add to it, but they are not a simple bolt on unit.
This is a cool thread, been watching.UPDATE:::::
Over the past 3-4 weeks progress has been made. I ended up taking the steel lines and related hydraulic hoses, the control the bucket of President scoop and dump functions down to the hydraulic line store and getting them completely rebuilt all new. $700 later and the loader is fully functional and working. About 1/2 of the grease zerts I have tried to live are rusted and locked. Will need to replace these.
I drain the entire hydraulic system, clean the screen, and refilled with all new fluid. So the hydraulic system is working really well. I was able to fix the leak down at the screen by simply tightening the nut fully.
The gear selector boot had dry rotted and cracked, which was what I think caused water to get down inside the transmission. I put a new boot on and have sealed that up.
The steering has a tremendous amount of play in it. Any idea on what I could do to tighten this up? Also, do you know if there is a power steering add on kit?
The only thing that’s not functioning is the three point hitch. I’ve tried everything, and it simply does not come up. It is in the fully down position. I noticed that there is a directional valve nut that you can turn, which seems to control the hydraulics. I played around with it in a matter which way I turn it, it does not lift the three point hitch. I’m not sure where to leave and start to look to start to chase this down. I am only interested in keeping this tractor for mowing if I could get the 3-point hitch to function. Any ideas?
As for power steering, on my old Fords it became second nature to use the brakes to help steer. A lot of weight on the back helps too.
Thanks. I can get over not having power steering BUT the play in the steering has got to go. From 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock. I don’t have the three point hitch working yet so I’m not able to use it for mowing but I can only imagine what it would be like trying to drive around trees on our property mowing with this much play.
Update…..
I took the little tractor to a local Shadetree tractor mechanic who is strong on hydraulic repairs. We were able to finally get the necessary part to fix the relief valve assembly and the three point hitch is now working. It’s quite a story and I’ll come back and tell it to everybody as soon as I get through the next hurdle….
We’ve noticed that the hydraulic pump produces good volume but there is a lack of power and so I’m looking to replace the hydraulic pump. Any recommendations on where to find a good aftermarket pump if there is such a thing?
Also, still need to chase out the steering play on this B8200 non-hydrostatic tractor if anybody has any experience?
I took the little tractor to a local Shadetree tractor mechanic who is strong on hydraulic repairs. We were able to finally get the necessary part to fix the relief valve assembly and the three point hitch is now working. It’s quite a story and I’ll come back and tell it to everybody as soon as I get through the next hurdle….
We’ve noticed that the hydraulic pump produces good volume but there is a lack of power and so I’m looking to replace the hydraulic pump. Any recommendations on where to find a good aftermarket pump if there is such a thing?
Also, still need to chase out the steering play on this B8200 non-hydrostatic tractor if anybody has any experience?
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