but if that's all you have, 2 of them work... you get about 2-3 INCHES at a pull,one then the other, very,very slow but can be done. YOU will get a real good upper body workout !
Recommendations for Chain and Binders or Other Tie Downs for Tractor Transport.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Those straps look good. I suppose if one doesn't have that style, perhaps it's possible to buy or make short sections of chains with hooks. I have four of these and I'm guessing that I've had them and used them for around 20 years! They're still in great shape.
That depends on where on the vehicle the straps or chains are connected. Is strap stretch "designed in" or an artifact of the properties of the material from which the straps are made?
Biggest mistake I see when strapping down side by sides or Jeeps is attaching the straps to the body or frame of the vehicle, then cinching the suspension down. Straps should ALWAYS be attached to axles or the wheels themselves.
I've many thousands of miles towing my Can-am Defender - I bet I've towed at least 1000 miles in the past month alone. I use heavy duty 2" wide "Snappin Turtle" brand ratchet straps attached to axle straps wrapped around a suspension component, as close to the tire/wheel as possible, and never have one loosen after being snugged down. Straps are designed with a bit of "stretch" built in and the straps must be tightened down enough to stretch - that keeps them tight as the vehicle moves around on the trailer. Guys I ride with also use the webbing that goes over the wheel itself and they seem to work very well also.
Fwiw, Polaris disagrees.
Hi All,
Again thanks for all the help and discussion! I ended up giving my uncle a call and he is more than happy to tow it on a 19 foot flatbed/carhauler he has that he uses for logs, it even has a winch! He told me not to worry about the tie downs as he has some heavy duty straps he will use. I’m gonna be picking some extra ones up in the meantime just in case, and I have those chains bookmarked so if I ever do start towing more I’ll pick those up.
Thanks again!
Again thanks for all the help and discussion! I ended up giving my uncle a call and he is more than happy to tow it on a 19 foot flatbed/carhauler he has that he uses for logs, it even has a winch! He told me not to worry about the tie downs as he has some heavy duty straps he will use. I’m gonna be picking some extra ones up in the meantime just in case, and I have those chains bookmarked so if I ever do start towing more I’ll pick those up.
Thanks again!
Well, I read that article and it also mentions tying down the Ranger with rope?????
Watch some of Matt's Off-road recovery videos and see where they attach straps when hauling out a disabled side by side on a trailer.
I not sure what is wrong with rope.
Obviously, do what you want and believe what you want. Matt mostly transports disabled SxS at low speed and attaches a lot different ways Including using his wrecker. I don’t think he’d say do everything he does.
It also says
6. If transporting the vehicle in a non-enclosed or open trailer, the vehicle must FACE FORWARD or the roof must be removed. Failure to comply may allow airflow, vibration or other factors to separate the roof from the vehicle and cause an accident, resulting in serious injury or death.
Most all car haulers now strap around the tire, letting the suspension move ...
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Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
I prefer regular old J hook ratchet straps. Never owned a chain binder. My first set I bought from the dealer I got my trailer from cost $30 apiece and had CHP DOT RATED stamped on them. I still have and use them but I also have a set I bought from Home Depot for $10 apiece and cut down so I don't have to wrap up 27 feet and deal with the excess every time. Both work fine.
I think there's some confusion here about what's being discussed. A tire is not sprung mass relative to the trailer. My earlier point is that ideally there's no movement between the deck of the trailer and the tie down point on whatever is being towed. If securing a car to a trailer using straps that run over the tires, there is little movement of the tire relative to the trailer. There could be a little deformation of the side walls of the tire given the mass and inertia of the vehicle being towed, but not a lot.
The scenario I was referring to and that I've seen more than a few times, is when the strap or chain is attached to a point on the vehicle that has the suspension system bracketed between the deck of the trailer and the tie down point. This is referred to as sprung mass. For example, a situation where straps are attached to tie down points on the front and rear bumpers of a Jeep. This is not an ideal way to secure a vehicle when towing and it's a good way to have straps or chains loosen up while towing. The M-1078 I sold had a feature (that I never used) where the suspension could be compressed and locked in place via steel plates in preparation for being loaded into a C-130. Basically sprung mass is being changed to unsprung mass.
Great points @McMXi …I would add though that tires are still part of the suspension…there is still some wiggle there.
as far as initial thread regarding chains tie down binders etc..
couple points I would share:
1. I think the choice between straps and chains depending on frequency of use and application. I say this as I started with straps, and have use the wheel straps…they are generally fine…they do suffer from abrasion over time and elements. They are very light weight easy to carry when rolled up nice and tidy
2. On the other hand, with chains, if driving multiple hours it increases chances of inclement weather…sure they are heavier, but also more durable, last longer, they also don’t take on moisture and much faster / quicker to put away versus rolling up a strap - when it’s raining out that’s a big benefit, not to mention not rolling up a wet strap and storing in a dark box. Chains stretch a whole lot less.
3. If going for binders, the speed binders sure look sweet, I think if frequency of use makes sense probably worth the money.
I have and use both, but I prefer chains for the tractor and straps for the implements. If it look like rain then it’s chains all the way and I cut some holes in old socks as a sleeve to protect the implements.
Id think the speed binders would be a good thing Christmas list if loved ones looking for ideas.
I’ve had very positive results with USCARGO Control for straps and chains/binders and they normally offer USA made options if that matters to you. Their USA made products also have a very clear placard of the spec limits. Maybe that does / doesn’t matter to everyone, but does to me and especially for SWLL items. YMMV.
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I wasn't confused, I was agreeing with you about vehicles with suspension are not normally in the commercial trucking world held down by the frame, compressing some/most of the suspension ... Yes, a tractor tire has a little give to it, but I generally can see the tire squat a bit under tension.
I do see some of the military vehicles like the armored cars and mraps cinched down TIGHT, but that's a whole different situation
The Kubota's OM for my RTV-XG850 has similiar instructions. Tie to the frame, not the tires