Rear Remotes, Top/Tail

[NCL4701]

L4701 has no rear remotes. Just starting to consider putting rear remotes on mostly to accommodate a hydraulic top link and side link. Am thinking it would be useful for box blading (which I do a lot more of than anticipated when purchased) and at times a hydraulic top link would be useful for brush hogging as it could be set to float and also used to tilt up to back over saplings.

I will admit I haven’t done a ton of research but with some of the A/M systems seems like it results in valves in odd places and it is attractive to have the OEM controls in the blank slots over by the lift control instead of stuck on a bracket on the ROPs or somewhere. Of course whether it’s worth a price difference depends on how much it is.

So to the main point. Dealer quoted: $1000 for first remote, $500 each for next two, $1000 for cylinders and associated hoses and hardware for top link and side link; $3000 total for three rear remotes, top and tail including all parts and labor. That’s the exact same price they quoted a couple years ago when I bought it but was too cheap to add it then. Financing is not involved.

They have all the stuff for the remotes in stock and will do float option, detent for continuous flow, or forward/reverse without float or detent, or any combination thereof for the same price. They’d have to order the cylinders and said it might be two to four weeks to get them in. Seems like most of the $3K is parts but I could be wrong, thus the question.

At the risk of sounding lazy, if there isn’t significant savings doing it myself, it is attractive to do zero research sourcing parts, drop it off one day after they get all the parts in, and pick it up the next day finished and ready to work.

Good deal or no?

 

[old and tired]

Depends on if you have the money to pay for the convenience of getting it done quickly and getting a VERY clean install. I wish my install was more professional looking but it's not. Not by a long shot but mine was about a grand including my used bucket grapple ($350), Top and (used) side link.

It was also a long drawn out process for me... I had good luck on my side with finding the grapple and side link. I did not want it mounted to the ROPS. If I had to do it all again (after knowing what I know) $3k might not be too bad of a price for this cheapskate!!

Also, you'll love it for a Box Blade...

 

[NCL4701]

Depends on if you have the money to pay for the convenience of getting it done quickly and getting a VERY clean install. I wish my install was more professional looking but it's not. Not by a long shot but mine was about a grand including my used bucket grapple ($350), Top and (used) side link.

It was also a long drawn out process for me... I had good luck on my side with finding the grapple and side link. I did not want it mounted to the ROPS. If I had to do it all again (after knowing what I know) $3k might not be too bad of a price for this cheapskate!!

Also, you'll love it for a Box Blade...

I do have the money, it’s just painful to part with it (which might be why I still have it). If it was something for my wife or son, I wouldn’t think twice about dropping $3K on it. Probably something I should talk to a therapist about.

Appreciate the viewpoint of someone who went the DIY route. Thank you.

 

[foobert]

Can’t speak for the valving, but $1k for a pair of cylinders and hoses is probably double what you can source yourself.
For example, Northern Tool has 16”x2.5” cylinders for $130. 4’ x 1/2” hoses are $25 each. All rated for 3k PSI. Add a few elbows and couplers and you’re easily under $250 per.

Specific cylinder size makes a notable price difference, so, hard to say without more details.

 

[swpflipper]

Its always about time vs money. I have a shop at my disposal with mechanics on the payroll and I still had the dealer install the remotes and the top n tilt. I figure the time it takes for us to run down parts and learn the install we could do the work we are familiar with.
If I had a bunch of time, I would do it myself. It should be fairly straight forward.
I liked the; drop it off one day and pick up the next and it was done.
If your doing a bunch of box blade work, you are going to love having top n tilt.

 

[GeoHorn]

Tractor innovations is the solution I chose. A single (for toplink) was $500...free shipping, and a discount was offered for a second, which could be used for tilt.
I am very happy with it, and with Andy’s helpful advice. My loader joystick forward/Aft movement controls toplink Up/Dn. The joystick left/right could control tilt left/right If a second unit were installed.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just as an FYI, Kubota rear remote valves are known for having internal leakage issues which Kubota refuses to address. So while they look nice and neat, there is a good chance that there will be issues with them and you may end up having to constantly be readjusting the cylinders to keep the implement out of the ground.

 

[NCL4701]

Tractor innovations is the solution I chose. A single (for toplink) was $500...free shipping, and a discount was offered for a second, which could be used for tilt.
I am very happy with it, and with Andy’s helpful advice. My loader joystick forward/Aft movement controls toplink Up/Dn. The joystick left/right could control tilt left/right If a second unit were installed.

So if I understand correctly, you can’t use your loader and the rear remotes simultaneously?

 

[NCL4701]

Just as an FYI, Kubota rear remote valves are known for having internal leakage issues which Kubota refuses to address. So while they look nice and neat, there is a good chance that there will be issues with them and you may end up having to constantly be readjusting the cylinders to keep the implement out of the ground.

That doesn’t sound good at all. One of the things I do like about the turnbuckle links is when you set them, that’s where they are. I’d rather stick with those or go A/M than have leaky valves.

Do you (or anyone else) have the Kubota valves and have first hand experience with them?

 

[old and tired]

So if I understand correctly, you can’t use your loader and the rear remotes simultaneously?

That is correct but it's either the curl or the lift circuit. The other one will still work... very rarely do you use both the FEL and rear hydraulics. The problem is that's $500 for just one feature (after losing another feature).

Things I do like about my ugly valve is I have one valve for top link, another for the grapple, and finally the last one for the side link. (could have added a fourth for another $50 but you have to stop somewhere...) I've added a needle valve to be able to fine tune each valve.

As for leaking valve, MtnViewRanch has been a top notch poster that I respect... I would investigate more into that. $3k for leaky valves would be a NO-GO....

 

[ayak]

I just enjoy working on this stuff so decided to get the kits ordered in from Kubota and do it all myself, albeit slowly. I’m happily on Brian’s (Fit-Rite) waitlist for the two cylinders, but I’m looking forward to getting it all put together. I did notice the Kubota kits have all been updated now, compared to what you find on YouTube. There’s a gentleman named Neal who gives a really good overview of what’s involved, just keep in mind the kit #s have changed in some cases to a new Lxxxx number, and a few even on a second or third version (first position kit initially had no letter at the end, but it’s now ending in ‘B’ as of February.

 

[NCL4701]

That is correct but it's either the curl or the lift circuit. The other one will still work... very rarely do you use both the FEL and rear hydraulics. The problem is that's $500 for just one feature (after losing another feature).

Things I do like about my ugly valve is I have one valve for top link, another for the grapple, and finally the last one for the side link. (could have added a fourth for another $50 but you have to stop somewhere...) I've added a needle valve to be able to fine tune each valve.

As for leaking valve, MtnViewRanch has been a top notch poster that I respect... I would investigate more into that. $3k for leaky valves would be a NO-GO....

After some research seems like the cylinders should ideally be purpose designed and include check valves to address the leaky valve creep. Not necessarily right fit for the L4701 (or maybe it is) but as an example: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...MImsPA3erq7wIVRMDICh2Kxw8tEAQYBCABEgK5ZvD_BwE

Glad it was mentioned. Definitely something to be addressed up front. Check valves seem to be good things in top/tilt.

 

[NCL4701]

Just as an FYI, Kubota rear remote valves are known for having internal leakage issues which Kubota refuses to address. So while they look nice and neat, there is a good chance that there will be issues with them and you may end up having to constantly be readjusting the cylinders to keep the implement out of the ground.

Thank you. Upon some rudimentary research it seems check valves on the cylinders are advisable. I wouldn’t have thought of that had you not mentioned leak creep. Do you think the cylinders designed with check valves specifically to be used as top/side links would resolve that issue?

 

[UpNorthMI]

I’d have the dealer do the 3 sets of rear remotes. It will be a nice tidy install. I have Kubota rear remote valves on all my tractors and have no issues or leaks. Make sure you tell your dealer what size connectors you want, my dealer put 3/8” on both my L series even though the written work order states 1/2”, this happened on separate occasions!

for top and tilt I would spend some time looking around. I put hydraulic top links on my L series tractors for about $250 each, L3901 and L3200.

 

[ayak]

Brian has a nice write-up on check valves on his website:

checkvalve

 

[NCL4701]

Brian has a nice write-up on check valves on his website:

checkvalve

Thanks. Lots to think about. Check valves take care of the leak creep (good) but delete the float option on the top link (bad for mowing).

 

[old and tired]

....at times a hydraulic top link would be useful for brush hogging as it could be set to float....

I see you just mentioned this... When mowing, I don't hook up the top link. Any rocks that I hit, raising the arms get the blades above where I need them to be...

 

[PaulL]

Thanks. Lots to think about. Check valves take care of the leak creep (good) but delete the float option on the top link (bad for mowing).

I'm never clear whether the float option allows a fast enough response to be useful for things like mowing - or whether a chain to replace the top link is the right option in that situation.

 

[NCL4701]

I see you just mentioned this... When mowing, I don't hook up the top link. Any rocks that I hit, raising the arms get the blades above where I need them to be...

Good point.

Never heard of anyone else doing that but in some of our areas I do the same. Unless you pick it up it isn’t doing anything anyway. Figured that out one day after the top link to brush hog pin rattled out and I realized I’d been mowing just fine for probably hours with the top link just laying on top of the mower hitch. (Obviously I clip it up out of the way when I disconnect it intentionally.)

 

[Crash277]

Tractor innovations is the solution I chose. A single (for toplink) was $500...free shipping, and a discount was offered for a second, which could be used for tilt.
I am very happy with it, and with Andy’s helpful advice. My loader joystick forward/Aft movement controls toplink Up/Dn. The joystick left/right could control tilt left/right If a second unit were installed.

that is amazing.