Rear Remotes For a BX23S
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TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Not hard or expensive. Plumb a monoblock valve into the loader power beyond and stick some couplers on it. For two sets of remotes maybe $400 - $500 in parts.
Dan
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It may be easier plumbing wise to run them directly off the pump feed that comes out the rear? Using the hose that feeds the backhoe, just disconnect backhoe and hook up to your valve(s)? Power beyond from them to the loader valve?
Especially if you already have a 3rd function/diverter valve?
The loader valve is under the right fender, easier access at the rear.
I have zero experience doing this, I'm just familiar with how the plumbing runs.
I have a LandPride 3rd function kit on the tractor, so that eliminates the joystick controller. I also have an enclosed hard cab witch further complicates things.
Do you want the rear remotes to function at the same time the backhoe functions?
Will the backhoe be on the machine when you are using the added rear remotes?
Will the backhoe be on the machine when you are using the added rear remotes?
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Why?
Landpride third function is fed by power beyond port on joystick and returns via the T port on tje third function to the point normally used by the loader Valve.
For remotes you simply remove the third function return and pick up that feed at the T port on the third function. The remoted then return to the same point the third fibvtion was using. That is standard Kubota plumbing on most of their tractors.
Dan
TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
If the thought is the "simplist solution" is plugging into the backhoe outlets I would disagree.
Dan
On my B2910, the backhoe is powered by a PTO pump. But the remotes I added are powered by the hydraulic circuit which includes the loader. Kubota sold a hydraulic block that provided the way to insert the new remotes into the existing hydraulic circuit. This has worked absolutely perfectly well for me for 20 years.
I don’t need to use the remotes when I’m using my backhoe. So it seems to be like if a person is asking for an easy way to hook up remotes, if they’re not using their backhoe and it won’t be on the machine at the time, that might be the simplest and most painless way to make it happen. Granted one would need to determine how to run a return to tank line from the remote valves.
So I guess what I’d like to know is why would this be something you would disagree with, Dan. Something similar has worked perfectly well for me for 20 years and I don’t have any complaints at all. Frankly, I wouldn’t do it any different in MY case
That doesn’t mean I know anything…
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
First off if I understand your install it is exactly what I am advocating. He already has the "block" and its just a matter of connecting three hoses to the existing plumbing.
Whether you need/want remotes at the same time the backhoe is mounted is a personal preference. I would but others might not.
The real deciding factor in my opinion is that its easier. far more convenient, and no more expensive to permanently plumb the remotes in ONE TIME and never ever have to touch them or the hoses again. No loose hoses floppingvaround when the hoe is being used.
Dan
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For one thing that I want the rear remotes for is to add a hydraulically operated thumb to the hoe.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
How would I do that? Please remember that I am a bit challenged by some of these things that I have never experienced before. 
fried1765
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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Time to sell now,.... and buy a new machine that has a hoe WITH a thumb!How would I do that? Please remember that I am a bit challenged by some of these things that I have never experienced before.
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Purchase a single spool valve for the thump and mount it on the hoe itself. If using an electric valve and sywstick button control it can go just anywhere. If using a manual valve with lever it needs to be mounted where you can access the lever when you need to operate the thumb. Plumb it as shown below on a BT600. An electric valve will not have a power beyond (PB)_ port so you use the T port for power beyond and you dont have the blue tank circuit used with a manual valve.How would I do that? Please remember that I am a bit challenged by some of these things that I have never experienced before.
Dan
On my BX24, I added dual remotes that plugs into the backhoe connections and can be used with or without the backhoe mounted. I use the remotes to operate my homemade thumb. The valve is from a JD garden tractor. I enlarged the ports from -5 to -6 and had to machine the body to accept a power beyond sleeve which I also made. It was quite a bit of extra work but the valve only cost me $20 at a swap meet.
There's not a lot of real estate on the 23S. Especially if you have a third function kit plumbed into the loader valve already, there's not a lot of space under there to run lines away from moving /hot parts. Not to mention extra fittings potentially needed to get around things.
I would think you would want the valve(s) by your side. Shortest/least complicated distance is from the pump output (where the backhoe connects)
If you mount and connect the valve(s) in the rear there's no need to mess with extra hoses every time, or have loose hoses.
When the backhoe is removed you have to disconnect 3 fittings and reconnect one anyways.
You should be able to plumb the valves in so there's no extra work.
With the backhoe removed there's 1 flexible line and 2 hard lines.
The flexible line is the pump output. This is normally attached to the fitting which feeds the loader valve.
Remove the fitting from the hard line, attach that fitting to the P port on your valve(s).
This becomes your one connection when the backhoe is removed; attach the pump output hose to the fitting.
Attach the power beyond port on your valve(s) to the hard line. This always stays connected.
Your tank return can be plumbed into the existing backhoe tank return line.
The hard part is finding where to mount your valve(s). The above picture won't work on the BX23S, the seat rotates directly through the area those valves are mounted.
Thumb for the backhoe would obviously be a different story.
You'd want that separate anyways I would think, and completely on the backhoe.
You know how you have 3 connections with the backhoe removed?How would I do that? Please remember that I am a bit challenged by some of these things that I have never experienced before.
The fitting on the left side of the center link mount is the tank return for the backhoe (T)
The flexible line is your pump output (P)
The fitting on the right of the center link goes to the loader valve and is the power beyond output (PB)
On the backhoe itself
Remove the P line. This connects to the P port on the valve for the thumb.
The PB port on the valve connects to where the P line used to connect.
The T port on the valve gets teed into the T line on the backhoe.
You'll have to figure where to mount the valve so it's usable when you're running the backhoe.
Then you'll need to get lines long enough to run from each port on the valve to the correct spot on the backhoe. And fittings to connect.
Depending where you mount the valve you may be able to reuse the hose for the P port.
This is how much space is on the left side when the seat is rotated.
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I added some pictures and fixed a couple of things in the above post.
There's actually a decent amount of room on the right side of the ROPs to mount valves.
You should be able to attach a mount to the ROPs so the valves are a little closer to the side of the seat for easy access.
There's actually a decent amount of room on the right side of the ROPs to mount valves.
You should be able to attach a mount to the ROPs so the valves are a little closer to the side of the seat for easy access.
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