Rear Remote recommendations- Its time

[TGKY]

When I purchased my L4701- I thought-- "I don't need to pay extra for rear remotes"........ bad call....... Fast forward and I wanted to rent a No till drill from the local conservation district, and discovered that it required rear remotes for use.

SO- What are the best options for self install. What are the benefits to Kubota brand and installed at the dealer vs aftermarket and me installed

How much should I be expecting in terms of cost.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[TheOldHokie]

When I purchased my L4701- I thought-- "I don't need to pay extra for rear remotes"........ bad call....... Fast forward and I wanted to rent a No till drill from the local conservation district, and discovered that it required rear remotes for use.

SO- What are the best options for self install. What are the benefits to Kubota brand and installed at the dealer vs aftermarket and me installed

How much should I be expecting in terms of cost.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Kubota remotes:

PROS: well integrated ergonomicslly and neat. Pretty easy to DIY install

CONS: pretty pricey - about $3k for the parts for a three valve setup. Dealet istallation extra

Aftermarket remotes

PROS: Much cheaper - pronsbly 1/3 the cost of OEM

CONS: not as neat and well integrated. You have to find a place to mount the valve. Typical solution is either on the fender or ROPS which looks like what it is - aftermarket wart


Dan

 

[mcmxi]

When I purchased my L4701- I thought-- "I don't need to pay extra for rear remotes"........ bad call....... Fast forward and I wanted to rent a No till drill from the local conservation district, and discovered that it required rear remotes for use.

SO- What are the best options for self install. What are the benefits to Kubota brand and installed at the dealer vs aftermarket and me installed

How much should I be expecting in terms of cost.

Thanks in advance for the help.

When I ordered the MX6000 I opted for three rear remotes. The total cost installed by the dealer for two SCD and one FD valve was $2,031.

The M6060 was on the dealer lot in Sheridan, WY and it came with one SCD rear remote as standard, but the dealership had installed a second which was the FD type and the cost on the invoice was shown as $900. I had the local dealer install a third rear remote, also an FD type, and that cost me $1,209. All of these installations include the valves, hoses, levers in the cab etc., and as @TheOldHokie said, the installation is about as neat and professional as can be and worth every penny to me.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I just priced 0EM remotes for the L4701. Prices vary but these seem representative.

Base kit is roughly $700. You must choose a valve to go with it. There are only two choices;

Float detent valve adds $400
Spring center valve adds $300

Stacking kits for second and third valves are roughly $300 each

For each stacking kit you need to choose a valve and choices are the same as for the base kit.

So DIY - adding three spring center valves worls out to roughly $2200 plus tax and shipping. Plug and play solution.

Dan

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What people seem to usually leave out when talking about the OEM rear remotes is that the factory Kubota rear remotes are known to have excessive internal leakage issues. What this means is that it is common for aux cylinders to drift-extend on their own, leaving you to constantly be adjusting the cylinder-s.
Now this is not all of them, but in excess of 50% and Kubota does not stand behind this issue. In other words, you get what you get and good luck.

They do fit and look nice though. Or build your own, purchase a better quality valve and have it look like a wart, but without the excessive internal leakage issues.

Something to consider. Good luck with your decisions.

 

[TGKY]

I just priced 0EM remotes for the L4701. Prices vary but these seem representative.

Base kit is roughly $700. You must choose a valve to go with it. There are only two choices;

Float detent valve adds $400
Spring center valve adds $300

Stacking kits for second and third valves are roughly $300 each

For each stacking kit you need to choose a valve and choices are the same as for the base kit.

So DIY - adding three spring center valves worls out to roughly $2200 plus tax and shipping. Plug and play solution.

Dan

Thanks for all of the help and replies.

I am completely uneducated on technical aspects of this. What would the difference between the float detent and spring center valves?

Also, what would be some cases where I would need more than the base kit? I am assuming the base kit would allow me to operate a no till drill that uses hydraulics to raise and lower the wheels.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for all of the help and replies.

I am completely uneducated on technical aspects of this. What would the difference between the float detent and spring center valves?

Also, what would be some cases where I would need more than the base kit? I am assuming the base kit would allow me to operate a no till drill that uses hydraulics to raise and lower the wheels.

The base kit contains the valve mounting base, one valve handle, the braket for mounting tje outlets, and one set of outlets. It does not include the valve - you have to purchase that separately.

Float detent is a valve option that gives you a fourth position that allows the cylinder to move freely rather tjan locking hydraulically.
This is just like your loader valve where ypu have a float position that lets the bucket follow the contours of the ground. Some people believe its important for three point implement control - others not so much. You will have no use for float with a grain drill and its unlikely cylinder drift will be an issue.

Spring center is the standard operstion. Center is neutral and the cylinder is hydraulically locked. When you move the handle out of neutral it returns to neutral automatically when you let go.

Now as far as cylinder drift goes ALL spool valves have some level of spool leakage which results in cylinder drift. Some valves leak less than others and I have no experience with the OEM valves which is why I did not comnent on that issue.

The priblem of cylinder drift is well understood and can be eliminated by placing a special check valve in the cylinder lines. Its such a common issue many hydrraulic top links come standard with a check valve. The fly in the ointment with that is you cannot float a cylinder that is equippef with a check valve. So the tradeoff is no drift and no float or float and tolerate whatever drift comes with the valve.

Now personally I purchased a new L3901 a few years ago and was all set to pop for 3 OEM remotes. I changed my mind and canceled that order not because of concerns about valve leakage but because rhe OEM kits had really crappy outlets. Nothing like the nice outlets used on your L4701, Grand L, MX, and M series. They looked like a DIY wart but at OEM prices. I figured I would rather have a much less expensive wart and good outlets. Here is my wart and outlets. The plan is to replace the wart with something much closer to OEM and keep the outlets but health problems have put that on hold.

Dan

 

[MOOTS]

I added 2nd and 3rd positions on my MX. It already had the first installed from dealer. It’s not hard, just a bit space constrained!
Valve stack.

Hoses

Levers

Then I added top and tilt cylinders from @MtnViewRanch.

If you are doing one, might as well do 2 or all 3. They open up more options.

 

[NCL4701]

I have three OEM rear remotes on my L4701; 2 spring center and one float. They rear remotes and hydraulic top/side link are the only things I would have changed in my initial purchase order if I could redo it.

I had reasons for wanting float and have no regrets but if you don’t want/need float and want a hydraulic top and/or sidelink I’d suggest getting the check valved cylinders so any internal valve leakage is irrelevant. Yes, I reach over and bump the side link once in a while to level it up. The valve that runs the toplink has negligible leakage from an operational perspective so no routine checking/adjustment needed.

First position MUST be spring return. Valve with float detent or continuous flow detent is physically larger than spring return and won’t fit in first position. Any of the three types will fit in second and third position.

Worst part of the job is removing the right rear wheel. Mine has filled R4’s and the ballast is over 500lb so the wheel/tire assembly is 500lb plus whatever the wheel and tire weigh without ballast. Not something to be dealt with without some planning. I had dealer install mine. By far the most expensive route. Advantage was I dropped it off one afternoon and picked up the next.

 

[NCL4701]

Not advocating for OEM, but just FYI this is what three dealer installed OEM remotes look like on my L4701. The bigger one in third position (nearest the fender) is the float detent valve. The silver block to the right of the valves (the three rusty looking things) is the base that’s required whether you add one, two, or three valves. Having the three handles all different lengths assists in picking the correct valve by feel rather than having to look at them.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Not advocating for OEM, but just FYI this is what three dealer installed OEM remotes look like on my L4701. The bigger one in third position (nearest the fender) is the float detent valve. The silver block to the right of the valves (the three rusty looking things) is the base that’s required whether you add one, two, or three valves. Having the three handles all different lengths assists in picking the correct valve by feel rather than having to look at them. View attachment 129741 View attachment 129742 View attachment 129743

Now I believe that is the old style kit with the valves mountrd horizontally. . Same setup as used on the smaller L01s.

New style has a different manifold with valves positioned vertically and comes with the stackable push-pull coupler blocks shown below. Basically the same as used on the Grand L's and bigger machines.

Dan

 

[TGKY]

Thanks To all for the great information. I talked to my dealer yesterday and was quoted $1150 for parts. We did not talk about installation at the dealer.
I am really liking how clean OEM looks.

 

[Chad D.]

I added two rear remotes on my B2650, which is quite different than what you have for space. It works well and is all out of the way, just below my right butt cheek. Levers come forward right next to the seat.

Another idea if you’re not going to be using the rear remotes much, and don’t need your loader while using the rears, would be to run lines to your loader valve for the occasional rear use.

A compromise would be to install a diverted valve on your loader lines so you can quickly switch from front to rear.

Full rear remotes are super nice, but there are options if you want to keep it simple and less expensive.

 

[hedgerow]

Thanks To all for the great information. I talked to my dealer yesterday and was quoted $1150 for parts. We did not talk about installation at the dealer.
I am really liking how clean OEM looks.

If you are keeping the tractor for the long haul I would just spend the money and go with the OEM set up and I would do the three valve while I was doing it. I don't have any remotes on my MX6000 as I have a lot of tractors with remotes setting in the shed. Had a buddy a hundred miles away that needed a tractor to do what you want to do and run a notill drill to redo some pasture ground on his acreage. He couldn't find any one to hire in his area to do the seeding so he got a notill drill rented for the seed supplier and hauled my MX6000 to his place. I just made up a set of hoses and unplugged the bucket hoses on the joy stick and he used the joy stick to raise and lower the drill. Worked prefect for a one time deal.

 

[LostTrail]

I just took possession of my MX6000 yesterday, had to opt for backhoe connection and basic loader hydraulics only. I will be adding 3rd function (Summit) and rear remotes in the future. I like the clean look of the 3 OEM rear, but have some questions.

Is the potential for the OEM internal leak down real, drastic, how adverse?

If 3 rear remotes is not enough, how does one add more?

Top & tilt links, 1-2 for flail mower, snow blower, etc.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I just took possession of my MX6000 yesterday, had to opt for backhoe connection and basic loader hydraulics only. I will be adding 3rd function (Summit) and rear remotes in the future. I like the clean look of the 3 OEM rear, but have some questions.

Is the potential for the OEM internal leak down real, drastic, how adverse?

If 3 rear remotes is not enough, how does one add more?

Cant persomally quantify the leakdown behavior of the OEM remotes. Opinions on that seem to vary considerably.

Leakdown can be totally eliminated by adding DPOCV valves to the cylinder but you lose the ability to float the cylinder(s).

Most utility/agricultural tractors well up into the 100 HP range are sold with three or less rear remotes and rhat seems to meet the majority of needs. On your tractor its easy to add additional aftermarket valves - just need to find a place to mount them and the outlets.

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

I just took possession of my MX6000 yesterday, had to opt for backhoe connection and basic loader hydraulics only. I will be adding 3rd function (Summit) and rear remotes in the future. I like the clean look of the 3 OEM rear, but have some questions.

Is the potential for the OEM internal leak down real, drastic, how adverse?

If 3 rear remotes is not enough, how does one add more?

Top & tilt links, 1-2 for flail mower, snow blower, etc.

I've got three factory rear remotes on both the MX6000 and the MX6060 and had three on the open station MX6000 that I sold. In my experience the issue of "leak" down is highly overrated and I don't have an issue or problem with any of the rear remotes that the dealer has installed, or the three 3rd functions for that matter. I park the tractors with the implements on the ground, and have NEVER had a problem running an implement effectively with all of that "excessive internal leakage".

Now would flat face couplers be better .... probably .... but that would be an expensive upgrade. It's my understanding that flat face couplers exhibit less weepage. That's the only annoying aspect of the factory remotes, the wetting around the couplers that attracts dust and dirt. But these are tools, not show ponies, so as long as I can get the work done that's what matters. The aesthetics are way down the list.