RC54 deck rebuild

pigdoc

Active member

Equipment
G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
209
43
SE Pennsylvania
Hi Folks,

I thought I'd summarize the RC54-G20 deck rebuild I just completed in a separate posting here.
You'll thank me for posting thumbnails instead of the full-size images! Just click on the thumbnail for an enlargement.

I started this rebuild a week ago, after finding the spindle bearings fried on all 3 spindles. I ordered a complete set of bearings, seals, and the internal snap rings from HD Switch on eBay. The kit was listed as for the RC60 deck, but after some careful scrutiny of part numbers for both decks, I was pretty certain that the parts would fit the RC54. And, I was correct.

After disassembly, I cleaned up the deck shell, which had some surface rust starting under an accumulation of wet clippings. Here is the deck shell after prep, and prior to epoxy paint:
1662905609692.jpeg

By far, the most difficult part of rebuilding the spindles was removing those HEAVY 2" internal snap rings which position the bearings. Here's a tip: Any consumer grade snap ring pliers (costing less than $20) are NOT up to the task! Another challenging part of the rebuild was pulling the pulleys off the spindles. One of them popped right off, but I had to use a gear puller on the other two. Tapered shafts would have been nice...

Here's a pic of the two outer spindles, showing the newly installed lower bearings from the bottom side:
1662903628381.jpeg
I show this pic so you can see the slight recess to receive the lower seal. It's important to get the lower seal driven in deep enough so that it is in that recess, or the blade boss will rub on it. One of the seals that I removed was incorrectly installed at the factory, and it was quite torn up by the blade boss. I used PVC couplers as a cheapie bearing and seal drivers. The other thing I did is toss the cleaned up spindles in the deep freeze overnight. Before installing them on the spindles, I put the bearings in a 200F oven for a half-hour. They dropped right into place, just a light drive to seat them.

Here are the outer spindles with seals installed. I bedded them in a tiny bit of Ultra Black silicone sealant (between the outer edge of the seal and the housing):
1662903555730.jpeg
I wire-wheeled the surfaces of the hubs that contact the deck - they were quite rusty. When I reinstalled them, I put a thin layer of grease on that surface to preserve it. Also did the same for the Holder Plates that go on the top of the deck and which the 4 mounting bolts go through.

Here's the deck with everything installed, finished:
1662904154257.jpeg
The pivot on the tensioner was rusted up so that it was pivoting on the bolt, trying to wear a hole through the deck. This, due to lack of grease. Punched out the bushing and cleaned up the bearing surfaces with fine sandpaper. I ended up replacing most of the grease zerks. Had no luck finding these grease zerks in the aftermarket - they're a special thread. Not 1/4-20, not M6. Close to $3 each at the Kubota dealership! Yikes.

A few words about the gearbox. Once you pull the blade boss off the lower end of the center spindle, the gear box assembly easily pulls right out. I found the inside pristine, even though there was evidence of leaking oil. Someone had recently topped up the gear oil, not too late. The two seals were both about half worn-out, so I replaced both of them, but the bearings were all in fine shape.

And now, some comments on parts and part numbers. The bearing kit I bought included 6 bearings, but the center spindle on my deck only ever had one bearing near the bottom. So, I ended up with an unused new bearing. That's OK. Three of the four bearings in the gear box are the same as the spindle bearings.

The original spindle bearings were Koyo brand, part number 6205. The replacement bearings had no markings on them, but they fit perfectly.
The original upper seals were NOK brand, part number BE1878E. The replacement upper seals were marked HD/S, part number 4120.
I could not make out any markings on the original lower seals, because they were all badly torn up. The replacement lower seals were marked HD/S, part number 5528.

I purchased the two seals for the gearbox from the Kubota dealership. $24 each! Yikes. They were NOK brand, part number AE1377H.
As I mentioned above, the input shaft bearings (2) and the lower output shaft bearing in the gearbox are the same as the spindle bearings.
The original upper output shaft bearing is Koyo brand, part number 62/32.

Let me know if you want me to post Kubota part numbers for this deck, I have the Parts List for it. Interestingly, the Parts List shows two spindle bearings in the center spindle housing, but my deck was built with only the lower one, and there was no snap ring groove that would position an upper spindle bearing.

Can't wait to get mowing! But, it's going to rain here all day...

-Paul
 
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leveraddict

Well-known member

Equipment
2017 BX23S 60" LP BoxBlade 54" mower 60" BackBlade EA 12" 1 bottom plow & Forks
Apr 1, 2019
907
589
93
NEPA
Nice work and writeup!
 
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Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
680
386
63
Bahama, NC
Nice work!
What kind of epoxy paint did you use?

I've come across this youtube video for a product (I haven't tried it yet) that looked interesting.
There are so many products out there for rust prevention and sticking grass it will make your head spin.
Fluid film, Woolwax, and dozens more.
Has anyone tried this product on anything?


 

pigdoc

Active member

Equipment
G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
209
43
SE Pennsylvania
There are dozens of products out there for use in auto restoration. Typically known as "chassis paint". Many of these are epoxy based.

I cheated. This is a product that I encountered years ago at Tractor Supply, and is still stocked:
1662988764725.jpeg

The first two words on the back of the label are "CONTAINS POLYISOCYANATES". It's basically like Super Glue. You can mix a small amount with any oil-based paint, let it react for 30 minutes and it turns into a sort of epoxy. I have used it a lot when I'm not concerned about the surface quality of the finish. And, I just needed a few ounces of paint for my little job, so I wasn't ready to spend $100 on a special chassis paint purchase. I brushed the paint on my deck! This stuff is a little spendy: $22 for a half pint. But, a little goes a long way. Mix it at 1:16. So, that half pint will catalyze a gallon of paint.

-Paul
 

pigdoc

Active member

Equipment
G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
209
43
SE Pennsylvania
Ya...
As far as consumer grades of exterior paint, in my opinion, Rustoleum doesn't deserve the reputation it creates for itself. Just my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

As I was scanning the paint shelves in Tractor Supply and Lowe's last weekend, I didn't see anything that lit me up.

About 5 years ago, I painted a Farmall Cub hood with Majik/Catalyst Hardener. It's spent a lot of time in the sun since then, and it's all chalky now.

It's probably a big ask of any paint brand to stand up to prolonged exposure to UV and weather.

My son is a automotive restoration expert. I'll ask him what his go-to single stage brand is...Stay Tuned.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,205
1,889
113
Mid, South, USA
I took this plunge when I had my G1900/RC54-G20

great mower and great tractor.

The problem, RUST. The top of the deck holds clippings and it holds moisture. So it rusts.

When it rusts, it pits. Rust is corroded steel/iron due to oxidation. Then it flakes off. Material is removed....due to oxidation.....Over the years I noticed during yearly winter servicing that the top of the deck was getting thinner and thinner due to rust. I would fix a crack or hole here or there and eventually even after epoxy coating it, it was just too much work to rebuild the entire top of the shell. I sold it and haven't looked back.

Yes you can paint it you can coat it, seal it, whatever but when it gets pitted up, material has been removed and at that point your shell is getting thin. At some point you'll have to deal with that as I did. When I turned the deck on, you could watch the gearbox flexing the top of the deck. Working for a conglomerate that owned several Kubota dealers, one would think that I'd be able to find a deck shell. NOPE. Not available new, and nobody had one on their yards, at least not that wasn't trashed. Bent I can handle but rust was the biggest issue, I'd find one a couple states over but then when I get there the top was rusted just as bad if not worse than mine. Probably why there ain't many to be found they all rusted out?
 

pigdoc

Active member

Equipment
G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
209
43
SE Pennsylvania
Thanks lugbolt,

I enjoy reading your threads and comments for the knowledge and experience you impart.
I'm right with you on the 'rust never sleeps' discussion. I should have converted the rust with phosphoric acid before painting, as I have done on many other restoration projects. That's about the only way to slow down the pitting. Paint alone won't do it. Pitted steel is porous and lets moisture in, below the surface. There was actually very little pitting on my deck shell, it was mostly just loosened factory paint. The worst pitting was actually under the Holder Plates that are through-bolted to the spindle housings. I coated those surfaces with grease on assembly. That should help some...

After seeing what 20 years of neglect did to that AYP deck on the Craftsman, I'm committed to being diligent in cleaning the RC54 up regularly, especially given your warning about the scarcity of these deck shells. And, my G1800 will always have a roof over it, so I can prevent water ponding on the top of the deck. I think my G1800 was kept in a shed most of its life, until it was traded in and sat outside for a couple of months at a dealership.

I read with interest your message from 2017 where you were doing battle with the front axle pivot on your G1900. That's next on my list with my G1800: jack up the front and make sure that pivot is well-greased. Interestingly, the same situation was occurring with the tensioner pulley pivot on my deck. There's a groove around the inside to distribute the grease, but no good way for the grease to be pushed all the way to the ends of the sleeve. Lucky for me, the sleeve was an easy drive to remove, and I polished the sh*t out of it to gain a little clearance for the grease. Probably should have taken a triangular file and made a longitudinal groove to let the grease move...Unlike a front axle pivot, that tensioner pulley arm could be easily fabricated from scratch, if worse comes to worse... but I don't think my RC54 ever got greased after it left the dealership new...

What I love about this list is the insight into 'gotchas' in the engineering that need to be dealt with proactively to cheat Father Time!

When I removed the deck, I pulled the two pins on the lift arms, flipped the front lever, took the shaft off the PTO, and then, placed a couple of short (22") planks as ramps for the front wheels, one end on the ground, the other end on the top of the deck shell. Then, I just backed the tractor up, over and off the deck. I'm working on that system to make deck removal for cleaning and maintenance less of a chore!

Thanks,
-Paul
 

Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
680
386
63
Bahama, NC
Ya...
As far as consumer grades of exterior paint, in my opinion, Rustoleum doesn't deserve the reputation it creates for itself. Just my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

My son is a automotive restoration expert. I'll ask him what his go-to single stage brand is...Stay Tuned.
@pigdoc I'm not sold on Rustoleum so if you and your son have better options, I am ALL ears! Thank you
 

pigdoc

Active member

Equipment
G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
209
43
SE Pennsylvania
Some follow-up.

Yesterday, I removed the rebuilt deck from the tractor to check some things out. It had 2 hours of use on it since installing the new bearings and seals. I was driven to do a follow-up check because I noticed that the pulleys get quite hot after an hour of use. Too hot to hold your finger on them. And, I thought the WHIRR coming from the outer spindles was too loud.

To me, one possible explanation is that the belt driving the spindles is too short thus causing the tensioner pulley to make it too tight. When I removed the tension spring, I used a fish scale to see how many pounds of tension were on it. Somewhere between 70 and 80 pounds. That seems like a lot. So, I installed one chain link between the tensioner spring and its attachment point to, in effect, lengthen it. This added about 1-1/4", and resulted in a tension of about 40 lbs. I should add that it has an aftermarket belt on it. I have seen warnings that these are a bit too short.

If I ever end up building a deck from parts, I'm going to change the tension spring mount so that I can have a machine screw eye in there to adjust the belt tension.

While I had the belt off, I checked the outer spindles and they are both still nice and tight, smooth and with no sideplay. Not too tight, though. If I give the pulley a spin, it will turn about 1 turn before stopping. So, I was somewhat relieved that the Chinese High Speed Steel bearings seem to be holding up...for now (more on that below).

Next, I checked the oil level in the gearbox. I had some mild concern because the deck was coated with gear oil below the gearbox after 2 hours of use. Oil was still up to the mark and a nice clear golden color. Just some weepage from the gearbox, I guess... It kind of needs a vent, so that when it gets warm, the increased internal air pressure has somewhere to go without pushing oil out.

Finally, I put the grease gun on it. The zerks all needed only about 2 pumps. I'm using lithium grease.

Put the deck back on the tractor, and mowed the yard. I think now, the belt is a bit too loose, because it screeched for a couple of seconds when I engaged the PTO. But only the first time, when it was stone cold. It didn't slip at all while mowing, but there wasn't much grass to cut either. I'm going to 'adjust' the belt tension again, to add a bit more (use a shorter chain link). Pulleys were just warm to the touch after an hour of use, so I am attributing the prior excessive heat to excessive belt tension. Still plenty of "WHIRR", but a bit less than before.

In retrospect, I should have sourced the spindle bearings from Kubota. On Messick's site, they're only $10.37 each. I surfed eBay for Timken bearings, and they're widely available for about $10...but only in the UK. Lots of US suppliers are backordered on the 6205 now. Strange. BTW, the 6205 spindle bearing is a 'stock' bearing. Everybody makes them and they're widely available. Different shielding and such, but it's not hard to find the right ones. I'm going to put 8 or 10 quality bearings on the shelf for next time. No more Chinese bearings!

BTW, I'm getting practiced at R&Ring the deck. Takes me about 2 minutes now. I've found that by parking the tractor on a 20% slope with the front end uphill, it's easy to roll the tractor backwards off the deck by placing a couple of short ramps between the front wheels and the front edge of the deck. Hard to do on flat ground, because the rear tires can't get the grip they need to pull the front wheels up onto the deck. And, as soon as the lift latches are all let loose, the deck rolls backwards until it hits the rear tires. Do the front latch last. If you have the PTO shaft loose, that deck roll pulls it right off. Helps to have the PTO shaft 'latch' and splines well lubricated, too.

It might seem like I'm being anal about this deck. But, I want to do everything I can to prolong its life!
They are hard to find in good condition!

-Paul
 
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