Quick hitches, adjustable widths, or Cat1 adapted to a bit narrower than Cat1 ?

[icehorse]

I've got an L3901 and a QH15 quick hitch. They seem to fit together fairly well, but not perfectly. When the QH15 is attached, the lower links are canted in a bit. In other words, the ends of the lower links are not square with the tractor, they are pointing towards the center a bit. This means that the ball joints at the ends of the lower links are also at an angle to the lower links. Nothing is quite geometrically true. (Sorry, I'm struggling with the lingo here a bit.) The inner width of the QH15 is about 27".

I've got a few implements that need a much narrower inner width, like 25". With these implements I can't use the QH15 (it's too wide), and when I attach these implements directly to the lower links, the canting problem gets really severe. Several times I've struggled to detach the implements because the ball joints have been spun so far out of true.

I'm wondering if there are any sort of width adapters, or variable width quick hitches? The goal is to be able to use these implements while keeping the lower links closer to true.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

if we are talking true/traditional cat 0 (about 20") vs cat 1 (about 25") then there are hitch extension kits for this.
If though you are talking about non standard equipment that is off maybe only an inch or two then I think a Red Green solution is called for.

 

[icehorse]

if we are talking true/traditional cat 0 (about 20") vs cat 1 (about 25") then there are hitch extension kits for this.
If though you are talking about non standard equipment that is off maybe only an inch or two then I think a Red Green solution is called for.

My landpride QH15 is listed as a cat 1, and it's inner width is 27". I think my L3901 would be true, at a width of maybe 29" or 30" ? And the implements I'm struggling with need around 25".

So can you give an example of a red green solution, I don't know what that means?

thanks

 

[torch]

I've got an L3901 and a QH15 quick hitch. They seem to fit together fairly well, but not perfectly. When the QH15 is attached, the lower links are canted in a bit. In other words, the ends of the lower links are not square with the tractor, they are pointing towards the center a bit.

Any chance the left and right lift arms are swapped?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I've got an L3901 and a QH15 quick hitch. They seem to fit together fairly well, but not perfectly. When the QH15 is attached, the lower links are canted in a bit. In other words, the ends of the lower links are not square with the tractor, they are pointing towards the center a bit. This means that the ball joints at the ends of the lower links are also at an angle to the lower links. Nothing is quite geometrically true. (Sorry, I'm struggling with the lingo here a bit.) The inner width of the QH15 is about 27".

I've got a few implements that need a much narrower inner width, like 25". With these implements I can't use the QH15 (it's too wide), and when I attach these implements directly to the lower links, the canting problem gets really severe. Several times I've struggled to detach the implements because the ball joints have been spun so far out of true.

I'm wondering if there are any sort of width adapters, or variable width quick hitches? The goal is to be able to use these implements while keeping the lower links closer to true.

The ball joints are there for a reason.

Dan

 

[icehorse]

Any chance the left and right lift arms are swapped?

Seems unlikely but... at the ends of the lower links, they curve towards each other, not away from each other.

 

[icehorse]

The ball joints are there for a reason.

Dan

Yup, and I've been using them. But I prefer not to take things to the limits of their ranges, and when these narrow implements are on, those ball joints are kind of maxxed out.

And it seems like if one of those ball joints gets damaged that probably means a whole now lower link

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yup, and I've been using them. But I prefer not to take things to the limits of their ranges, and when these narrow implements are on, those ball joints are kind of maxxed out.

And it seems like if one of those ball joints gets damaged that probably means a whole now lower link

Thats the nature of your tractor and your "narrow" implements.

Dan

 

[icehorse]

Thats the nature of your tractor and your "narrow" implements.

Dan

Which is why I'm wondering if there is some sort of adapter or some such. Because my tractor and these implements are not coupling very well.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Which is why I'm wondering if there is some sort of adapter or some such. Because my tractor and these implements are not coupling very well.

I think the solution is widen the implements.

Dan

 

[icehorse]

I think the solution is widen the implements.

Dan

Yeah, I've been looking into that. I tried getting some high quality steel and making longer "pins" for the attachments, but the leverage is pretty strong and even the high quality steel bent.

I brought this up because sometimes folks on this forum have seen products that others haven't been able to find...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Euro hook draft link ends. They allow for lots of articulation

 

[icehorse]

Euro hook draft link ends. They allow for lots of articulation

That's interesting. Several years back I got a set of the pat's thingies. tried them for a while, didn't like them. But I know some bigger tractors have lower links that have quick attach ends built in. THAT seems like a really good idea. I'd consider getting a pair of those if they exist.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

My landpride QH15 is listed as a cat 1, and it's inner width is 27". I think my L3901 would be true, at a width of maybe 29" or 30" ? And the implements I'm struggling with need around 25".

So can you give an example of a red green solution, I don't know what that means?

thanks

to get a decent Red Green'er i would either need more detailed measurements or be there in person but let me throw out some long distance / ignorant things that may work for you.

1. Can you shim the implements using large washers or spider shims, etc to get arm straighter to your liking assuming the pin holes are held off enough? either over the pin itself between the implement and the lift arm OR take the pin off the implement and shim between the pin and the frame of the implement.

2. adj width pins / extra long lift pins and these give you lots of flexibility to shim.

3. holeless lift pins shimmed and drill hole where needed
4. extra long lift pins shimmed

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That's interesting. Several years back I got a set of the pat's thingies. tried them for a while, didn't like them. But I know some bigger tractors have lower links that have quick attach ends built in. THAT seems like a really good idea. I'd consider getting a pair of those if they exist.

The issue with Pat's QH is the small if any amount of articulation.
The Euro hook ends can be welded onto any draft link end or extendable end.
So, yes they are available for your tractor.
The balls have 50* of articulation plus or minus a degree or two.
I'm relatively sure that your implements would not be an issue.

 

[icehorse]

to get a decent Red Green'er i would either need more detailed measurements or be there in person but let me throw out some long distance / ignorant things that may work for you.

1. Can you shim the implements using large washers or spider shims, etc to get arm straighter to your liking assuming the pin holes are held off enough? either over the pin itself between the implement and the lift arm OR take the pin off the implement and shim between the pin and the frame of the implement.
View attachment 154225 View attachment 154227

2. adj width pins / extra long lift pins and these give you lots of flexibility to shim.
3. holeless lift pins shimmed and drill hole where needed
4. extra long lift pins shimmed

A while back I got some grade 8 steel bolts to try to make longer pins, as you're suggesting. They bent pretty quickly when I put them in use:



I've had one welding lesson, so I'm probably not going to become a good enough welder in time for this hay season. But perhaps I could bolt onto the outer sides of the implements thick pieces of steel to support longer pins? It seems that the pins can't be too far from their support.

The picture below is of one of my "narrow" implements (a drum mower). I think that putting washers or some sort of shim between the outside of the implement and the wide part of the pin, would only "kind of" support the pin. But maybe if I bolted a piece of steel to the outside of the implement, and ran the pin thru that steel as well, that would truly support the pin, and I could extend the pin. Drilling holes in steel is (barely) in my skillset.

 

[Old Machinist]

to get a decent Red Green'er i would either need more detailed measurements or be there in person but let me throw out some long distance / ignorant things that may work for you.

1. Can you shim the implements using large washers or spider shims, etc to get arm straighter to your liking assuming the pin holes are held off enough? either over the pin itself between the implement and the lift arm OR take the pin off the implement and shim between the pin and the frame of the implement.
View attachment 154225 View attachment 154227

2. adj width pins / extra long lift pins and these give you lots of flexibility to shim.
View attachment 154228 View attachment 154229





3. holeless lift pins shimmed and drill hole where needed
4. extra long lift pins shimmed
View attachment 154230

I had a non standard disc harrow once I used this method on to fit my CAT1 quick hitch. I stacked lock washers on to space out the pins.

Not sure what to say on your arms. The tractor isn't optional CAT2 is it?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Not sure what to say on your arms. The tractor isn't optional CAT2 is it?

No - its an L3901. Just Cat 1 and the ends of the lift arms turn inward.

Dan

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

If longer pins won’t solve it, call Harold.

I called Harold a while back and between him and Red and myself we came up with a solution…

Cat 1 to Cat 2 Potato Plow

Finally finished adapting the potato plow to work with either tractor. Took to a buddy’s shop for the welding. Certainly not cost efficient compared to just using the bushings that I’ve been using, but it will work with both machines and pats as well as QH20 on the big girl…and that was the...

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