Quick Attach SSQA DIY Fabrication for B7510 LA302 FEL Bucket

[InTheWoods]

Is there interest in another SSQA fabrication thread? I searched through a ton of them, and didn't see one that showed some details that are needed. I have a new (to me) LA302 on my tractor, and want to convert it to SSQA.
There are several goals. First, I like to design/build projects. Second, I want an easy way to switch from forks to bucket and possibly other implements (snow blade?).

I know that the LA302 has limited lift capacity and SSQA will add dead weight, eating in to the useful lift capacity. So, that leads to another goal of keeping my adapter as light as feasible.

I have a set of these in-hand now.

So, the first step seems to be to figure out where to locate the brackets and holes to pin it to the LA302. To do that, I put together a mock-up by tack welding some scrap 1/8" steel to the latch plate, like this:

After a few attempts, it looks like the above is the best location for the pins - it minimizes the pin-to-front-face dimension, which seems like a good goal, but still allows full extension and retraction of the curl cylinders with no colliding parts.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I am always interested in Fabrication threads.

Even if the "project" is redundant, I enjoy seeing how other people do things and I tend to learn quite a bit.

I think more pics are better too.

So in the above project, you are going to convert your FEL a SSQA?

And then convert the bucket to SSQA?

Also, do you already have the SSQA forks that you are going to use?

 

[mikester]

Reminds me I wanted to make a 3ph to SSQA and backhoe QA to SSQA adapters

 

[InTheWoods]

...So in the above project, you are going to convert your FEL a SSQA?

And then convert the bucket to SSQA?

Also, do you already have the SSQA forks that you are going to use?

In reverse order - not sure about the forks. The lift capacity isn't great, so I'm not seeing the need for typical heavy forged forks - I'll probably fab the fork 'system' myself using rectangular tubular steel, after convincing myself it'd be strong enough for this application.

Yes - The existing LA302 FEL and bucket are getting converted to SSQA.

I kind of wanted to go ahead and make the 'real' brackets to weld to the latch adapter plate (instead of the temporary mock-up shown above), but thought it best to slow down a bit and make sure I know beforehand how exactly to mod the bucket itself, as that might necessitate a re-think on the latch adapter. Which brings me to the worst part of the project - removing the original 'tabs' from the back of the LA302 bucket. Not sure the best way to go about that. My little 4-1/2 angle grinder isn't up to the task. The cutting torch is a bit 'messy' - I'd probably burn a hole in the bucket in places I'd rather not and I don't have a plasma cutter. At the moment, the plan is to get a 7" angle grinder and see how that goes,

So, to avoid that lurking dragon, last night I made up the 8 little bushings that'll eventually get welded to the brackets, and receive the 4 LA302 FEL 3/4" pins. They're 1-3/8 mild steel, bored to 0.77" (the same as I measured on the bucket pin holes) and with a 1" shoulder that'll slip into holes in the bracket before they get welded in place. Four of them have cross-drilled holes to accommodate the cotter pins, just like the LA302 bucket has in its original form. A few hours of quality time with the lathe, and voila - the easy part of the project is done.

So, off to HF tools to grab a 7" grinder...

 

[GreensvilleJay]

When I made a self leveling loader for a garden tractor, I used wood to make the patterns. Cutting,drilling ,screwing wood was a lot easier than using steel. Once I got the patterns right THEN I made the set from steel. Bonus was no wasted steel !

 

[InTheWoods]

So a trip to Harbor Freight resulted in this following me home:

I fitted it with some 1/16" x 6" cutoff wheels, and was actually pretty impressed with how well it ate through the brackets on the back of the LA302 bucket. It took about an hour, but one of them, as well as a little bit of the angle iron brace is now off.

There are a few gouges I made in the bucket, easily welded up later. There were a pair of 1/2" 'plug welds' in the center of the bracket - the grinder wouldn't reach them. I decided to just drill them out. So that's why there's a couple of 5/8" holes in my bucket now.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Why didn't you use the existing bucket brackets to hook up the SSQA plates?

 

[InTheWoods]

Why didn't you use the existing bucket brackets to hook up the SSQA plates?

Because leaving the existing brackets on would have pushed the bucket forward by at least 3" beyond the stock setup and the weight of the existing brackets does no good. The simple approach would certainly be to have just welded an SSQA plate over the brackets, but it's not optimal, IMO.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No you don't understand.
Why didn't you use the brackets that you just cut off the back of the bucket to attach to the SSQA latch plates to?
They already has the proper spacing and support for the pins.

 

[InTheWoods]

Oh, I considered that and might have if they came off cleanly. But an angle grinder is a pretty crude tool - they're not pretty, and took a beating getting them off. It'd certainly be possible to do as you suggest if a guy took more time and care getting them off though.

In my case, making new brackets and bushings doesn't seem too hard. (We'll see, I may decide to re-use the cut-off brackets after all.)

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Woods, like me, you appear to enjoy working with metal.

When you can afford it, do yourself a favor and grab this little plasma cutter.

I got one about a year ago and it is a game changer.

I just checked and at $329 (as of now with the instant 20 off coupon) it is about 80 bucks cheaper than when I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052OX876/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


BTW, Nice job so far.

 

[torch]

Is there interest in another SSQA fabrication thread? I searched through a ton of them, and didn't see one that showed some details that are needed. I have a new (to me) LA302 on my tractor, and want to convert it to SSQA.
There are several goals. First, I like design/build projects. Second, I want an easy way to switch from forks to bucket and possibly other implements (snow blade?).

I know that the LA302 has limited lift capacity and SSQA will add dead weight, eating in to the useful lift capacity. So, that leads to another goal of keeping my adapter as light as feasible.

I have a set of these in-hand now.
View attachment 121630

So, the first step seems to be to figure out where to locate the brackets and holes to pin it to the LA302. To do that, I put together a mock-up by tack welding some scrap 1/8" steel to the latch plate, like this:
View attachment 121631

After a few attempts, it looks like the above is the best location for the pins - it minimizes the pin-to-front-face dimension, which seems like a good goal, but still allows full extension and retraction of the curl cylinders with no colliding parts.

I had the same design philosophy when I built my FEL and bucket. In order to keep things as light as possible and as close to the pins as possible (both to maximize payload capacity) I incorporated the bucket itself into the SSQA. Relavent pictures start here: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/yet-another-b7100-fel-build.26262/post-215013

It has worked out well and think you are on the right track. Just make sure you will still have a sufficient height when you are done. The lower pin on the bucket must be high enough that the bottom of your adapter does not interfere with connecting and using the bucket.

Also, I'm not sure about the bottom of that adapter (on the tractor). I would prefer to see a solid wall all the way to the bottom flange, and fear that leaving it floating in mid-air like that will eventually lead to grief when it somehow gets bent upwards.

As for the future forks, I did exactly what you plan, making my own out of hollow rectangular tube: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/ssqa-fork-attachment.33510/ They weight about 100 lbs, are as tight to the pins as the bucket and have easily stood up to the loads I apply (I try to limit weight to 500 lbs and keep it as close to the pins as possible. Video clip:

https://picturehosting.verhey.org/Kubota/forks/forklift.webm

 

[InTheWoods]

...When you can afford it, do yourself a favor and grab this little plasma cutter....

Yeah - a couple buddies with plasma cutters say the same thing. It's on the shopping list. That said, the 6" angle grinder with cutoff wheels was surprisingly adept at this job, falling short only in its ability to get into inside corners. Thanks for the tip on the $300 plasma cutter - I'll ponder it...

 

[InTheWoods]

I had the same design philosophy when I built my FEL and bucket. In order to keep things as light as possible and as close to the pins as possible (both to maximize payload capacity) I incorporated the bucket itself into the SSQA. Relavent pictures start here: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/yet-another-b7100-fel-build.26262/post-215013

Nice build! Thanks for the link.

It has worked out well and think you are on the right track. Just make sure you will still have a sufficient height when you are done. The lower pin on the bucket must be high enough that the bottom of your adapter does not interfere with connecting and using the bucket.

Yep - I had the feeling I might need to adjust the pin vertical position. I'll give it some more thought.

Also, I'm not sure about the bottom of that adapter (on the tractor). I would prefer to see a solid wall all the way to the bottom flange, and fear that leaving it floating in mid-air like that will eventually lead to grief when it somehow gets bent upwards.

Yes - that's the plan - my mockup adapter plate was too short, and I had to lift it up to get the geometry right, but when I make the 'real' plates, they'll extend all the way down to the lower 'lip' on the latch adapter plate and get welded securely.

As for the future forks, I did exactly what you plan, making my own out of hollow rectangular tube

Good to know. Thanks. I see you tapered the ends of the tubing exactly as I was thinking!

I found this site, which I'm planning to use to size the tubing for the intended load:

Beam with hinge ends Calculator | Concentrated load

This calculator computes the bending moment, slope and deflection of a beam with both ends simply supported under action of a concentrated load.

calcdevice.com

It has several useful little calculators for determining deflection in beams.

 

[skeets]

I cant do any of that stuff, I aint smart enough, but I enjoy watching someone that is, and can do things like this

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Just in case you don't have the standard dimensions. This won't help with getting the height and angle correct. I don't think you'll have any problem with the angle.

 

[torch]

Beam with hinge ends Calculator | Concentrated load

This calculator computes the bending moment, slope and deflection of a beam with both ends simply supported under action of a concentrated load.

calcdevice.com

That link took me to a page for beams supported at both ends. Bear in mind that forks are a cantilever.

It may not be obvious in my photos, but the corners of the forks are reinforced with 1/4" thick L shaped brackets on both sides.

 

[InTheWoods]

That link took me to a page for beams supported at both ends. Bear in mind that forks are a cantilever.

Oops - I linked you to the wrong page, It has lots of different configurations - cantilever is here:

It may not be obvious in my photos, but the corners of the forks are reinforced with 1/4" thick L shaped brackets on both sides.

I see that. Good idea!

 

[InTheWoods]

The deed is done - glad that part is over! My bucket now has flat mounting surfaces on the back to accommodate whatever adapter plate I need to put there.

...Just make sure you will still have a sufficient height when you are done. The lower pin on the bucket must be high enough that the bottom of your adapter does not interfere with connecting and using the bucket....

I want to be sure I understand the concern here - Is it that once the bucket is attached and the loader arms are lowered so the bucket is sitting on the ground, I need to make sure I have another few inches of loader arm 'travel' to lower them in order to release the bucket from the adapter?

Here's what I'm thinking. In the picture below, the loader arm sits on a pile of wood blocks - otherwise it could be lowered another 3.5". The bucket is on the ground. So it seems like there would be ample travel to be able to release the bucket.

 

[torch]

3" to 3-1/2" sounds about right. Not only do you need that to release the bucket (even on uneven ground), but you want to be able to dig a bit (with the bottom of the bucket horizontal) too.