When it comes to a snow blade, I'm cheap. No point in buying new when so many used ones are out there. This time of year, lots of people wan to unload their used ones,Wow!!!! These things are spendy. They must be pretty proud of them.
Pro's and con's of front snow blade's
- Thread starter Dae06
- Start date
baronetm
Member
Equipment
L3901HST w/FEL, 3rd fnct. BH77 BH, 5' Bushhog, 6' BBL, 42" Forks, WoodMaxx WM-8H
I have a Dodge diesel with an 8’ fisher plow, a walk behind snow blower, a Simplicity 4x4 tractor with a snow blower and my Kubota with the back blade and now a SSQA mounted Fisher snow plow. I find in thawed ground using the back blade backwards works well even over finished lawn where my snow piles are made with much less spring cleanup and repair.
I made my own snow plow for my L3901HST w/3rd function. I’m too cheap to spend the dollars to purchase one already made and I need projects to take up my spare time.
I acquired a well-used 7-1/2” Fisher snow plow from my son’s friend for zero dollars and removed the pusher brackets from an old 1970 Scout I have. I attached it to a Titian SSQA plate, added some scrap steel, fasteners and some welding. I purchased two Hyd hoses, quick couplers and pins for a total expense of about $225 bucks. I made the plow assembly with a stiff hitch for back dragging, pull the pins and it fully floats.
There it a learning curve, some instances the tractors loader float functions works well, in others it does not. I find the more forward tilt I have to scrape the surface the more the float function does not work well. The float function seems to work well while angling the plow since the cutting edge is covering more forward travel distance, rather than parallel to the direction of travel. Soft earthen driveways are and issue with every mode of snow removal, before spring comes I am going to modify the disk shoes on the plow to triple there foot print in an attempt to float the plow on softer ground.
I always push the first passes straight to the end then I finish by angling the plow to clean up the spillage and edges. Front chains may help the front end from skidding but I also plow a paved drive and do not want to damage the coated surface with chains.
I made my own snow plow for my L3901HST w/3rd function. I’m too cheap to spend the dollars to purchase one already made and I need projects to take up my spare time.
I acquired a well-used 7-1/2” Fisher snow plow from my son’s friend for zero dollars and removed the pusher brackets from an old 1970 Scout I have. I attached it to a Titian SSQA plate, added some scrap steel, fasteners and some welding. I purchased two Hyd hoses, quick couplers and pins for a total expense of about $225 bucks. I made the plow assembly with a stiff hitch for back dragging, pull the pins and it fully floats.
There it a learning curve, some instances the tractors loader float functions works well, in others it does not. I find the more forward tilt I have to scrape the surface the more the float function does not work well. The float function seems to work well while angling the plow since the cutting edge is covering more forward travel distance, rather than parallel to the direction of travel. Soft earthen driveways are and issue with every mode of snow removal, before spring comes I am going to modify the disk shoes on the plow to triple there foot print in an attempt to float the plow on softer ground.
I always push the first passes straight to the end then I finish by angling the plow to clean up the spillage and edges. Front chains may help the front end from skidding but I also plow a paved drive and do not want to damage the coated surface with chains.
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I see you are as 'frugal' as I am. Have not used mine as of yet as there has not been any snow to speak of. Not an issue for me actually. I'll keep in mind the forward tilt as I'm sure there is a learning curve involved. My '3rd function' was added on via a set of rear remotes.
Dang thing is just ugly black. Next year a 5 gallon finish is in order along with 2 PA cylinders, one is weeping.
Have not used mine as of yet as there has not been any snow to speak of. Not an issue for me actually. I'll keep in mind the forward tilt as I'm sure there is a learning curve involved. My '3rd function' was added on via a set of rear remotes.Dang thing is just ugly black. Next year a 5 gallon finish is in order along with 2 PA cylinders, one is weeping.
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In reality, adding a quick attach plate and some angle iron gussets is pretty elementary welding and cutting stuff. Anyone with a buzz box and a hacksaw can build one pretty quick.
I'm gathering pieces for a front blade right now. Everything is falling into place for a tentative start later this week. The design will follow Wildfire / Paul Short's design but at this point the blade may be suspended with chain like the one that TractorNH on another board made. A picture of his is below.
The blade I'll be using is also a Fisher with the bottom edge trip. Since the A frame is higher with that design, the rear set of skid shoes that Paul has on his shouldn't be necessary.
The SSQA plate was delivered to the shop (at work) late last week and the tractor is in my BIL's barn here at home. After reading about another poster's Titan SSQA plate that didn't fit, I plan to bring the plate along home tomorrow to check it before beginning any fab work. While it would be a shame to find it won't' fit now, it'd be a CRYING shame to discover it after getting it all welded up.
The blade I'll be using is also a Fisher with the bottom edge trip. Since the A frame is higher with that design, the rear set of skid shoes that Paul has on his shouldn't be necessary.
The SSQA plate was delivered to the shop (at work) late last week and the tractor is in my BIL's barn here at home. After reading about another poster's Titan SSQA plate that didn't fit, I plan to bring the plate along home tomorrow to check it before beginning any fab work. While it would be a shame to find it won't' fit now, it'd be a CRYING shame to discover it after getting it all welded up.
Attachments
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
You will like the Fisher Snowplow with the cutting edge trip, they are great plows. Mounting the attachment plate directly to the plow rigidly is the simplest way to do it, but unless you are plowing a flat, blacktop driveway, it takes a lot of work to keep it following the contours of the ground. I put together 2 of them, 1 for my B2920 and 1 for my fathers B7500. I took 7-1/2’ Fisher Plow and cut it down to 6’. I mounted ears on top of the A-Frame just behind where everything pivots and used pins to mount the quick attach adapter. Then used the original chain to hitch to the top of the plate. This way the plow has flexibility to follow the ground if you keep slack on the chain.
I bought a PA snowplow from Jenkins Iron.Wow!!!! These things are spendy. They must be pretty proud of them.
It is in all specs a better plow than the QA and at least $1k less money
Great customer service too
Check them out.
GBJeffOH
Active member
Equipment
L4060, EA Grapple, 6' LP Brush Hog, 8' snow plow, 6' LP tiller, EA Forks, Spraye
I have a L3540 with a 8' quick attach blade.
The blade is way out front so it tends to steer the tractor a lot.
I have chains on all 4 wheels. It pushes a lot of snow. You can pile it up high.
With the under mount blade you have to store the FEL somewhere.
If I had to do it over again I would do the same thing.
The blade is way out front so it tends to steer the tractor a lot.
I have chains on all 4 wheels. It pushes a lot of snow. You can pile it up high.
With the under mount blade you have to store the FEL somewhere.
If I had to do it over again I would do the same thing.
