Plasma cutter - desirable features

[Paul Allwood]

I'm about to purchase a plasma cutter and hoping that some here who have them might be able to advise good or bad features. I'll be looking for something that can give a clean cut in 12 to 16 mild steel.

Since most here are US-based and I'm in Australia, recommending brands or models may not help. Hence the question about features.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[McMXi]

I'm about to purchase a plasma cutter and hoping that some here who have them might be able to advise good or bad features. I'll be looking for something that can give a clean cut in 12 to 16 mild steel.

Since most here are US-based and I'm in Australia, recommending brands or models may not help. Hence the question about features.

Any advice appreciated.

You've got the plate thickness dialed in so that's going to narrow down your choices. More is better in my experience since it gives you options. Next thing is onboard air or stand alone compressor. I have a HyperTherm 380 that I've had for at least 25 years and probably longer. I run it on 220V and supply it with dry air. It will cut 1/2" plate but it's not a great experience.

You need enough air flow rate and the air needs to be dry. Other than that, there are so many brands out there now and your budget is a factor too. Do you have JASIC in Australia?

 

[DaTow'd]

I have a Miller Plasma Cutter best thing is the consumables are easy to find.
I have a friend that bought a EBay plasma cutter and has a hard time finding parts that fit.
16 years ago we had a flood and the water was 5 feet high on my shop floor and the plasma cutter was under water. I opened the case and found the "guts" are covered in some kind of wax - I hosed it off with fresh water and let it air dry it works like it always did.
I have a air filter for the compressed air

wonderful invention

 

[McMXi]

I have a Miller Plasma Cutter best thing is the consumables are easy to find.
I have a friend that bought a EBay plasma cutter and has a hard time finding parts that fit.
16 years ago we had a flood and the water was 5 feet high on my shop floor and the plasma cutter was under water. I opened the case and found the "guts" are covered in some kind of wax - I hosed it off with fresh water and let it air dry it works like it always did.
I have a air filter for the compressed air

wonderful invention

I'm in the Miller camp as well. My Millermatic 185 is still going strong more than 25 years later. I used Miller, Hobart and Lincoln welders during the 15 years that I worked as a coded welder, but Miller was by far the preferred choice on most job sites and in most fabrication shops.

I don't know enough about all of the cheap welders and plasma cutters that abound today, but I have my doubts about the duty cycle and longevity. Perhaps good enough for most small jobs and that's all that matters to many.

 

[Paul Allwood]

You've got the plate thickness dialed in so that's going to narrow down your choices. More is better in my experience since it gives you options. Next thing is onboard air or stand alone compressor. I have a HyperTherm 380 that I've had for at least 25 years and probably longer. I run it on 220V and supply it with dry air. It will cut 1/2" plate but it's not a great experience.

You need enough air flow rate and the air needs to be dry. Other than that, there are so many brands out there now and your budget is a factor too. Do you have JASIC in Australia?

Thanks. I have a compressor so won't need an on board compressor model. I've never heard of Jasic, just googled and none of the tool suppliers near me stock them.

 

[Paul Allwood]

I have a Miller Plasma Cutter best thing is the consumables are easy to find.
I have a friend that bought a EBay plasma cutter and has a hard time finding parts that fit.
16 years ago we had a flood and the water was 5 feet high on my shop floor and the plasma cutter was under water. I opened the case and found the "guts" are covered in some kind of wax - I hosed it off with fresh water and let it air dry it works like it always did.
I have a air filter for the compressed air

wonderful invention

Easy to find consumables is a good point - probably makes me lean towards the brands that the large local tool suppliers carry.

 

[McMXi]

Ready to find consumables is a good point - probably makes me lean towards the beans that the large local to suppliers carry.

I'd want a Miller Spectrum 875 at best or a Miller Spectrum 625 at worst but they're $$$$.

https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/miller-electric/import/specsheets/file/pc98-spectrum-875875-autoline--english.pdf

But heck, stuff from YESWELDER makes all kinds of claims and they're 1/10th of the cost. Then again, the Miller Spectrum 875 which "only" claims to cut up to 3/4" mild steel plate weighs 50lb, but the mighty YESWELDER CUT-65DS PLUS claims to cut 1" mild steel plate but it weighs less than half at 23lb.

 

[Russell King]

I'm about to purchase a plasma cutter and hoping that some here who have them might be able to advise good or bad features. I'll be looking for something that can give a clean cut in 12 to 16 mild steel.

Since most here are US-based and I'm in Australia, recommending brands or models may not help. Hence the question about features.

Any advice appreciated.

What do you mean by the “in 12 to 16 mild steel.” statement? 12 mm to 16 mm thick?

Please clarify.

 

[McMXi]

What do you mean by the “in 12 to 16 mild steel.” statement? 12 mm to 16 mm thick?

Please clarify.

He's in Australia ... of course he means 12mm to 16mm. He's talking 1/2" to 5/8" plate in the US.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Give us some names that are available for you there.

You want a 60 to 70 amp minimum
You also want pilot arc as it makes starting the cut on thicker steel so much easier and cleaner.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

As per normal, lots of good advice above.

I personally started off by gambling with an "Amazon/Chi-com- hand held special" for a couple hundred bucks.

“For the money”, it is a surprisingly nice little machine, and I am 100% satisfied with it, and would buy another one. I have cut 10mm’ish (3/8 inch) stuff and it did reasonably well.



That one “got me hooked”……...

My next one was/is a RazorWeld that I purchased when I bought my CNC plasma table. I have only cut up to 6mm (.250 inch) with it, but I was happy with the quality of the cut.

Full disclosure: The “main reason” I went with the Razorweld was because it was a “package deal” from the CNC table maker, so I was assured that it was designed to be compatible with the “brain” of my table. (and it’s what I could afford)















If I had “unlimited funds” I would/will step up to the big Hyper-Therm machine for my table mount, but so far I am happy with the Little Razorweld. (Besides…..I am not sure I could lift a 1/2 plate that is 32x48 onto my table….. )

Brand names are kind of a “Snap-On Vs. Craftsman” type of debate…….Hard to say if the extra money is worth it or not?????….

From your project posts that I have seen, you seem to cut lots of “heavy duty” material, so you might benefit by stepping up to a larger amp'd machine. (70-80’ish???)

Air quality is important, and for some strange reason, it uses more air than what I originally expected…..(Don’t know why that is, but it did/does surprise me how long my little Quincy runs for )

Good luck sir, and make sure you post it when you get it!!!!


EDIT: As I was looking at my pictures, I noticed the respirator sitting there….That is one thing that I DID NOT ACCOUNT FOR…….I have to wear it when when cutting, or I get a “wicked sore throat” ….so I am reasonably sure it puts out “lots of bad sh1t”….Also, I have since “walled off” that area of my shop to keep “it” contained.

Just a heads up

 

[Paul Allwood]

What do you mean by the “in 12 to 16 mild steel.” statement? 12 mm to 16 mm thick?

Please clarify.

Sorry, yes, 12 to 16 mm thick mild steel

 

[Paul Allwood]

He's in Australia ... of course he means 12mm to 16mm. He's talking 1/2" to 5/8" plate in the US.

Correct

 

[Paul Allwood]

Give us some names that are available for you there.

You want a 60 to 70 amp minimum
You also want pilot arc as it makes starting the cut on thicker steel so much easier and cleaner.

The 2 brands stocked by the big tool suppliers close to me are Unimog and Cigweld.

Is the 60 to 70 A based on 115 V, and would it be the same as approx 30 to 35 A at 240 V ?

 

[Kennyd4110]

Having one that can use drag and gouging tips is invaluable IMHO. I have an older Hypertherm myself, but I've used a Thermal Dynamics one to.

 

[Paul Allwood]

As per normal, lots of good advice above.

I personally started off by gambling with an "Amazon/Chi-com- hand held special" for a couple hundred bucks.

“For the money”, it is a surprisingly nice little machine, and I am 100% satisfied with it, and would buy another one. I have cut 10mm’ish (3/8 inch) stuff and it did reasonably well.
View attachment 173260


That one “got me hooked”……...

My next one was/is a RazorWeld that I purchased when I bought my CNC plasma table. I have only cut up to 6mm (.250 inch) with it, but I was happy with the quality of the cut.

Full disclosure: The “main reason” I went with the Razorweld was because it was a “package deal” from the CNC table maker, so I was assured that it was designed to be compatible with the “brain” of my table. (and it’s what I could afford)





View attachment 173261


View attachment 173262

View attachment 173263




If I had “unlimited funds” I would/will step up to the big Hyper-Therm machine for my table mount, but so far I am happy with the Little Razorweld. (Besides…..I am not sure I could lift a 1/2 plate that is 32x48 onto my table….. )

Brand names are kind of a “Snap-On Vs. Craftsman” type of debate…….Hard to say if the extra money is worth it or not?????….

From your project posts that I have seen, you seem to cut lots of “heavy duty” material, so you might benefit by stepping up to a larger amp'd machine. (70-80’ish???)

Air quality is important, and for some strange reason, it uses more air than what I originally expected…..(Don’t know why that is, but it did/does surprise me how long my little Quincy runs for )

Good luck sir, and make sure you post it when you get it!!!!


EDIT: As I was looking at my pictures, I noticed the respirator sitting there….That is one thing that I DID NOT ACCOUNT FOR…….I have to wear it when when cutting, or I get a “wicked sore throat” ….so I am reasonably sure it puts out “lots of bad sh1t”….Also, I have since “walled off” that area of my shop to keep “it” contained.

Just a heads up

Thanks for the info. You're right, I do cut up to about 25 mm thick MS, but not too often. Given the step up in cost I think I'd be happy to stay with something that can cut 12 to 16 mm reasonably easily.

And yes, I'll definitely post pics when I get one. Maybe even a video of me trying to use it.

 

[Yooper]

As RWS touched on, you will need DRY compressed air or you are setting yourself up for failure. Not to mention going through a lot of consumables.

 

[McMXi]

Having one that can use drag and gouging tips is invaluable IMHO. I have an older Hypertherm myself, but I've used a Thermal Dynamics one to.

Yes, the ability to gouge out welds is a valuable feature for sure. As in inveterate pack rat when it comes to steel I'm always repurposing stuff that invariably needs to be broken down before it can be built up. It's not a particularly efficient use of time, but there's something satisfying about it.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Yes, the ability to gouge out welds is a valuable feature for sure. As in inveterate pack rat when it comes to steel I'm always repurposing stuff that invariably needs to be broken down before it can be built up. It's not a particularly efficient use of time, but there's something satisfying about it.

Exaclty.
Also make doing some repairs much easier, like replacing these tooth shanks on an small excavator bucket I did many years ago for my wife's cousin.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Sorry, yes, 12 to 16 mm thick mild steel

At that thickness you aren't looking for Amazon Chinese junk. Serious machines cost serious money.

Buy quality and cry once. Buy junk and cry cry cry.