Piping a grapple from rear remotes - suggestions?

[ctfjr]

While I'm still a long way off from receiving my grapple I thought I'd run the hydraulics to it while I wait.

Here is my goal. The grapple will connect with breakaway couplers mounted on the round tube that goes between the loader arms. From there I would go back on the right side to the area of the fel control valve. There I can take advantage of the existing hose loop that allows for the rotational movement of the arms. At that area I will have another set of couplers jic I ever want to remove the loader.
From those couplers it goes to the back going under the right side foot well, over the hydraulic filter, over the rear axle and up to the remote connections.
Below is the path I'm proposing. I would appreciate any comments on anything I missed or a better way.

Oh, and I marked my arrows backwards I was thinking about it from back to front

Then from under footwell follow hoses to loader valve

then follow the bundled hose loop to get under the fel arm - its somewhere around here I need the coupler set, perhaps a bracket mounted to the 5" loader support tube?

Pop out from under the arm and go to breakaway couplers

Plate with breakaway couplers here for the grapple connection

Well that's the plan, any suggestions?

 

[MOOTS]

Your idea will work, no doubt. But I believe it will be a bit clumsy, for lack of a better word. Imagine trying to grab a log while having to curl at the same time. Right hand on remote lever and left on loader stick. Also, those will be some expensive hoses!

Why not just add a proper 3rd function kit?

 

[ctfjr]

Thanks Matt for the reply. I have heard that before about using two levers while manipulating the grapple. I have 3 rear remotes and am only using 2. So its a fairly inexpensive test to try. If lever use turns out to be a deal buster there is always plan B.
A guy I met a Tractor Supply told me he does it and it just takes some getting used to. We'll see.

 

[BigG]

When I did my MF1528 a small tractor back in 2005 it cost over $200 for the hoses. At that time there was no third function option. If you do follow your plan double check the movement of your 3 point arms will not interfere with the hoses. Have some one watch on your trial runs to make sure there is no problem. Ask me why I warned you. Spread the arms wide and hold them narrow as you raise and lower them to make sure there is nothing rubbing on them.

 

[je1279]

I'm in the process of doing the opposite. I have a 3rd function and wanted to add a rear remote for a hydraulic top link. I believe the hoses, fittings and quick connects were around $165. I ordered the hoses through Surplus Center but I only needed two 7' hoses for mine. Looks like they have 12' 3/8" hoses for around $25 if those will work for you. I also ordered a hose sleeve from Amazon that will cover both hoses end to end.

 

[MOOTS]

Summit hydraulics has a kit for L3200, L3400 and L4600. I’m sure one would work for your L3800. Yea, it’s $550, but I bet you’d be close to that with 2 12+’ hoses.

 

[MattN03]

I was planning to use my rear remotes initially to save costs, but after estimating hose costs at around $200 and operation being clumsy since the valves are near my right elbow on a B3200, I coughed up the money for the WR Long 3rd function. Haven't installed it yet, but I think it'll be easier to use.

A coworker with a much larger New Holland says he uses the rear remotes for his grapple and it's fine. His controls are in a more convenient location so I think that could be the main thing to take into consideration.

 

[m7060]

While I'm still a long way off from receiving my grapple I thought I'd run the hydraulics to it while I wait.

Here is my goal. The grapple will connect with breakaway couplers mounted on the round tube that goes between the loader arms. From there I would go back on the right side to the area of the fel control valve. There I can take advantage of the existing hose loop that allows for the rotational movement of the arms. At that area I will have another set of couplers jic I ever want to remove the loader.
From those couplers it goes to the back going under the right side foot well, over the hydraulic filter, over the rear axle and up to the remote connections.
Below is the path I'm proposing. I would appreciate any comments on anything I missed or a better way.

Oh, and I marked my arrows backwards I was thinking about it from back to front

View attachment 60938
Then from under footwell follow hoses to loader valve
View attachment 60939
then follow the bundled hose loop to get under the fel arm - its somewhere around here I need the coupler set, perhaps a bracket mounted to the 5" loader support tube?
View attachment 60940
Pop out from under the arm and go to breakaway couplers
View attachment 60941
Plate with breakaway couplers here for the grapple connection
View attachment 60942

Well that's the plan, any suggestions?

I die the same thing on my M7060. Works perfect. Cost about $220 for hoses, quick connects, protective sleeve material and zip ties. Considerably less than $1000 for 3rd function. If you are looking to run production then 3rd function is the way to go

 

[Chad D.]

I haven’t looked at pricing, but wonder how much it would be for a simple mechanical diverted valve and shorter lines. If I didn’t already have a 3rd function kit, I’d divert the curl/dump valve to run double duty with the grapple. Keeping it all under one hand would be nice so you can still drive...

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, for the 'plumbing layout' use two old garden hoses as standins for the $$ hydraulic hoses. you can tyrap them in place and drive around,exercise the loader to see what happens.Even use them as templates for proper length.

as for gappling, I suspect you usually get under the log or brush, then 'clamp down', haul away., when done enough times, 'muscle memory' will do the 'sequence' for you, without thinking.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I haven’t looked at pricing, but wonder how much it would be for a simple mechanical diverted valve and shorter lines. If I didn’t already have a 3rd function kit, I’d divert the curl/dump valve to run double duty with the grapple. Keeping it all under one hand would be nice so you can still drive...

A 12v diverter valve is $120 - all you need beyond that is a push button switch on the joystick and some wire. Cheap, clean, and comes off with the loader.

Dan