Picked up a finish mower, couple questions

[windetch]

Hey guys
Picked up a used Frontier GM1060R for my L185, it's got Woods stamped on the gearbox.
Deere has it listed as rated for 15 - 40HP, so my 17HP L185 should handle it alright.

I'm a little curious about the chains running down from the top link

Most other finish mowers have solid bars, the chain seems a decent idea as it allows the deck to float a little better.
What's the reason most run solid bars? Cost wise it wouldn't seem to make a big diff.

I flipped the two front wheels so they're not as close to my rear tires, do need a shorter top link...

I mowed a small overgrown field in 3rd (low), did great -- esp considering the blades could use sharpening/replacing.
Tractor didn't bog any, though I def. need weights on the front. With the mower lifted in the air the front wheels were rather floaty. Anyone know roughly how much weight I need? Mower has a listed weight of 600lbs...

Also wondering what gear others mow in,
Guess I'll figure out via trail and error where the tractor is most happy and the mower is still able to maintain a decent cut.

 

[Tooljunkie]

My 60" allis chalmers with new blades works well behind my L1501. I run 2nd high range. Pto in in 1st. That thing is older than the kubota.

Yours is a nice looking mower. Think its heavier duty than mine.

 

[coachgeo]

Hey guys
...
I'm a little curious about the chains running down from the top link

Most other finish mowers have solid bars, the chain seems a decent idea as it allows the deck to float a little better.
What's the reason most run solid bars? Cost wise it wouldn't seem to make a big diff.

I flipped the two front wheels so they're not as close to my rear tires, do need a shorter top link......

I'd also assume it is to help float but I don't know what I'm doing yet lol. Others though have reported swapping out top link for a chain to cause a 3pt float affect.

Question... does your wheels move up and down on those shafts or are they filed with spacers to adjust height?

 

[D2Cat]

The flex in the chain allows the deck to stay on the ground if you go over a terrace, or similar grade.

A mower with metal bars instead of the chains will have a "U" shaped bracket at the top to allow the same flexibility.

 

[Russell King]

Quote "Tractor didn't bog any, though I def. need weights on the front. With the mower lifted in the air the front wheels were rather floaty. Anyone know roughly how much weight I need? Mower has a listed weight of 600lbs..."

The weights that fit are the 55 pound weights and 4 will fit. They are a bit expensive but are the easiest to use. Your local dealer will probably have them in stock.

 

[skeets]

If I may, what did you give for that mower?

 

[Daren Todd]

I have around 320lbs on the front of mine. My rotary cutter and finish mower both run around 500lbs. I run 1st gear high range with the finish mower. But my yards rough in the back yard, and the front yard has a lot of trees to dodge. The rotary cutter, it depends on what I'm cutting. 1st gear hi range if it's field and briers. Slower if it's rough or small saplings


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[Sammy3700]

I think frontier is sold by John Deere however, I am thinking you have a Woods RD (which is rear discharge) what ever width it is. My dad has one like yours and it was bought new as a Woods RD 72 and yellow in color. As far as the chains do not know his has the solid bars. Woods is great about sending manuals if you email them.

 

[Corney]

My 60" allis chalmers with new blades works well behind my L1501. I run 2nd high range. Pto in in 1st. That thing is older than the kubota.

Yours is a nice looking mower. Think its heavier duty than mine.

PTO is 1st? I would have thunk you would want that thing a rotating?

 

[windetch]

Thanks guys

Question... does your wheels move up and down on those shafts or are they filed with spacers to adjust height?

Spacers, 's how you set cut height. There is a little spring there to presumably provide a little give

On a side note, I was looking at Sitrex / Caroni finish mowers and really the only complaint people had on them was that the caster wheel bars occasionally bent. Don't think this deck will have that issue.

The weights that fit are the 55 pound weights and 4 will fit. They are a bit expensive but are the easiest to use. Your local dealer will probably have them in stock.

Thanks Russell, do you know what the retail price is on the Kubota weights?
Been thinking about getting a few Ford/Allis weights off craigslist and making a bracket, based on the responses it seems like 200 - 300lbs should work alright.

If I may, what did you give for that mower?

I gave $900 and had to drive an hour and a half, guy was asking $1,100 and had had it for a while. I think I did okay; it's primary task will be to mow 2.5 acres, figure it'll last me a while.

I think frontier is sold by John Deere however, I am thinking you have a Woods RD (which is rear discharge) what ever width it is. My dad has one like yours and it was bought new as a Woods RD 72 and yellow in color. As far as the chains do not know his has the solid bars. Woods is great about sending manuals if you email them.

Yep, Frontier is JD's implement line, and it looks like Woods made this one (which is why I bought it).
Thanks for the tip on the manual, I also found a copy on Deere's website

PTO is 1st? I would have thunk you would want that thing a rotating?

PTO in 1st is 540, there's a big sticker on the deck not to exceed 540 so 's where I'll likely keep it. Seems to cut fine at rated speed.

 

[coachgeo]

....Spacers, 's how you set cut height. There is a little spring there to presumably provide a little give

.....

The wheel has a long shaft that spacers and that spring sit on. The are the same inner and outer Dimension as the arm that holds the wheel. Judging by the rust lines looks like you have four spacers of various height and one spring. Rearrange the spacers and spring with more on bottom to raise the mower thus raising cutting height. More on top to lower the mower/cutting height.

hmmm... on second thought...... it might also be designed to crank down on the bolt on top to compress or decompress the spring as a means of adjusting cutting height. Though I think this would not give much adjustment. Remove one wheel assembly and see how it is set up. Take pics of course.

 

[windetch]

The wheel has a long shaft that spacers and that spring sit on. The are the same inner and outer Dimension as the arm that holds the wheel. Judging by the rust lines looks like you have four spacers of various height and one spring. Rearrange the spacers and spring with more on bottom to raise the mower thus raising cutting height. More on top to lower the mower/cutting height.

hmmm... on second thought...... it might also be designed to crank down on the bolt on top to compress or decompress the spring as a means of adjusting cutting height. Though I think this would not give much adjustment. Remove one wheel assembly and see how it is set up. Take pics of course.

's actually grease lines, previous owner liberally hit every grease fitting.
There is a bit of rust on this mower (mostly surface rust where paint got scraped off), but the wheel shafts are just greasy.

I set the deck at max height this afternoon so I could mow a somewhat questionable patch (has been mowed in the past, but not for a while). So I took a couple pictures

Short bolt on top compresses the spring, but the bolt bottoms out before the spring compresses all the way

Lifted up the deck till the wheels fell off

Cleaned 'em up, moved the last spacer onto the shaft, bolted it back together and I (apparently) have a five and a half inch cut height.

Which was helpful.

It again did fine, a little rougher cut but again less than ideal blades and def. less than ideal 'grass'
A second pass would have improved it, may do so later.

But yeah. I'm happy with this finish mower, appears sturdy and well built.