Overheating and now stalling - I don’t feel good about this.

[dinman]

I’ve been mowing about 4-5 acres of fields. Lots of wildflowers and things that really clog up the mesh screen in front of the radiator. It seems that every year, the tractor (B3300SU with 415 hours on it) tolerates this less and less and heats up way too quickly and too hot. When it heats up I clean the grill very well and let it cool down.

I’ve been following some other posts about this same thing trying to figure out the problem. Today though, I think I waited too long and it got too hot. Once it hit the red I stopped but when I turned off the tractor I could hear it boiling. Coolant was pouring out of the tube hanging out of the reservoir tank.
I let it cool down and when I checked the radiator it looked empty. It was full when I started.
Went out to buy some more and then didn’t have anything labeled “green” but had a Penzoil that is supposed to work in anything so I filled it up with that.
Started to drive off to my field, no PTO running and then the tractor starts to stall. Putters down in RPMs and doesn’t quite die but wouldn’t move. Turned it off and back on and it started doing it again so I left it where it was. Don’t want to do any more damage if this is a serious problem.

So my first question is this, the coolant is in a contained system right? If the wrong coolant was added, it couldn’t cause the engine to stop running after about 2-3 min of just slow driving right?

Next question is, did I overheat it that much that I really toasted something in the engine?

I’m tempted to start it up again and see what it does but am wondering if I need the Kubota dealer come tow it away. $$$$$

Help! Please!

 

[Shotgun Merwin]

did you blow the actual radiator out too? fine dust finds its way down there, even with the screen, and will block the fins up eventually.

 

[dinman]

did you blow the actual radiator out too? fine dust finds its way down there, even with the screen, and will block the fins up eventually.

Yes, I take the screen out and have been blowing it with a shop vac but today used an air compressor and really got down in there.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Very likely you have either cracked the head or blown the head gasket.
Was there any smoke when it ran bad?

 

[old and tired]

Just adding that when I'm mowing tall weeds, if I can get two or three acres done, I need to blow out the radiator. I've had boiling once, now I keep an eye on the temp gauge... when it hits halfway, I run to the house to clean things up.

 

[jaxs]

No way of knowing what is going on from this distance but it doesn't sound good. I've been pooh-poohed and compared to Chicken Little for saying a single event can do catastrophic damage to a diesel engine. I see people hanging 5 and 6 foot mowers on compact tractors but if your mower is any larger than 48" on that 25hp @ pto you are already behind the 8-ball. I'd have the dealer check it out.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I’ve been mowing about 4-5 acres of fields. Lots of wildflowers and things that really clog up the mesh screen in front of the radiator. It seems that every year, the tractor (B3300SU with 415 hours on it) tolerates this less and less and heats up way too quickly and too hot. When it heats up I clean the grill very well and let it cool down.

I’ve been following some other posts about this same thing trying to figure out the problem. Today though, I think I waited too long and it got too hot. Once it hit the red I stopped but when I turned off the tractor I could hear it boiling. Coolant was pouring out of the tube hanging out of the reservoir tank.
I let it cool down and when I checked the radiator it looked empty. It was full when I started.
Went out to buy some more and then didn’t have anything labeled “green” but had a Penzoil that is supposed to work in anything so I filled it up with that.
Started to drive off to my field, no PTO running and then the tractor starts to stall. Putters down in RPMs and doesn’t quite die but wouldn’t move. Turned it off and back on and it started doing it again so I left it where it was. Don’t want to do any more damage if this is a serious problem.

So my first question is this, the coolant is in a contained system right? If the wrong coolant was added, it couldn’t cause the engine to stop running after about 2-3 min of just slow driving right?

Next question is, did I overheat it that much that I really toasted something in the engine?

I’m tempted to start it up again and see what it does but am wondering if I need the Kubota dealer come tow it away. $$$$$

Help! Please!

Dont jump to conclusions. Boil overs happen a lot with no long term catastrophic results. One thing for sure - the type of engine coolant you added is of ZERO concern.

First thing I would do is check and top off all the fluids and try to get it started again. If it wont start and run then a trip to a service provider for diagnosis is warranted. At a minimum a compression test should be run to screen for a leaking head gasket or cracked head.

If it will start and run with normal power you need to address the overheating behavior. Make sure the radiator fins and screens are clear. Sounds like you have already been on top of that and it was not helping.

That would immediately lead me to suspect a malfunctioning thermostat - e.g. stuck, sticking, or not fully opening. Or possibily a gradual loss of coolant from a leaking head gasket, hose, or pressure cap. Conduct an engine compression test and cooling system pressure test to screen for them.

Stay cool (no pun intended), eliminate the easy things first, and leave the hand wringing to last.

Dan

 

[BAP]

Just because you blew out the radiator, doesn’t mean that you actually got it clean. Unless you look through it closely, radiators can be deceiving as to whether they are actually clean or not. Also, if the radiator gets dirty and plugged, then it is almost certain, that the air filter is very dirty. A dirty air filter will both make the engine not run well and contribute to heating by not enough air flow.

 

[chim]

Just because you blew out the radiator, doesn’t mean that you actually got it clean. Unless you look through it closely, radiators can be deceiving as to whether they are actually clean or not. Also, if the radiator gets dirty and plugged, then it is almost certain, that the air filter is very dirty. A dirty air filter will both make the engine not run well and contribute to heating by not enough air flow.

You betcha. Scurrying off for a quick episode with a leaf blower doesn't really do that much. In my case, I've used an air compressor with wands for years thinking it was a good procedure. While it's much more effective than a leaf blower, it was surprising to see how much more crud came out with a good wet cleaning:

My, What dirty fins you have

The goal today was to clean the radiator and condenser fins. Funny how tasks have a way of increasing in scope. It was a successful day though. What really surprised me was just how dirty the fins were. I do use compressed air and the two tools shown in the first/second photos and felt my...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[dinman]

It occurred to me last night that I did have an episode once before of it sputtering and stalling. That time it was the air filter so this morning I took a peek and sure enough it was totally full of milkweed fluff. Pretty happy that I found that, cleaned it out, started the tractor and it stalled after about a minute of sitting still at idle. Not good. And now it won’t start at all.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

From reading these forums it seems if the tractor doesn't have a cab and is operated in dusty conditions the filters on "small" tractors need frequent cleaning and the radiator needs a washing occasionally.

I keep the filters [overly] clean and joints [overly] greased and the tractor has been mostly awesome.

 

[TheOldHokie]

It occurred to me last night that I did have an episode once before of it sputtering and stalling. That time it was the air filter so this morning I took a peek and sure enough it was totally full of milkweed fluff. Pretty happy that I found that, cleaned it out, started the tractor and it stalled after about a minute of sitting still at idle. Not good.

Did it overheat? Will it stay running at higher RPM? I would not be giving up this easy.

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

I don't have much to add other than some anecdotal experience. The first year I cut my friend's field using the MX6000 and flail it was very hot and heavy/slow going. I'd been cutting for six or seven hours with the A/C running and would stop on occasion to blow out the screens, radiator and condenser due to build up of chaff. I'm fairly sure that I was cutting in M range rather than L range which may or may not be relevant.

Late in the afternoon the engine got very hot in the part of the field shown below, and the coolant expansion tank overflowed. The engine stalled at one point and it took a few minutes before I could restart the engine. I put it down to the perfect storm of a very hot day, the engine working hard due to the thickness and height of the vegetation, the A/C working hard due to the lack of insulation in the roof of the cab, a build up of chaff on the radiator screen, and the ECU shutting down the engine to prevent a bigger problem. I have a couple of hundred hours of trouble-free operation since that time and haven't had a repeat event.

 

[dinman]

Update. Invited a neighbor over yesterday to take a look and I started it up for him and it ran about 3 minutes before sputtering and stalling.

Called the shop today and their booking home visits a month out and I’m looking at about $250 for a one-way trip for them to come get it.

With that in mind I thought I’d keep poking at it. Came home today and started it. Usually starts right up but it struggled today with what seemed like excessive white exhaust. It did start though and ran fine for almost 10 minutes before I shut it down. I didn’t run the PTO but pulled forward a bit and put it back in the barn.

if I hadn’t been having all these issues I’d say that it’s fine right now but I’m still baffled at what happened, or what’s continuing to happen.

I talk a lot but do want to leave this with a question. Some of you are worried that I’ve got a cracked head after overheating it. If that’s the case, what would I be seeing now?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Update. Invited a neighbor over yesterday to take a look and I started it up for him and it ran about 3 minutes before sputtering and stalling.

Called the shop today and their booking home visits a month out and I’m looking at about $250 for a one-way trip for them to come get it.

With that in mind I thought I’d keep poking at it. Came home today and started it. Usually starts right up but it struggled today with what seemed like excessive white exhaust. It did start though and ran fine for almost 10 minutes before I shut it down. I didn’t run the PTO but pulled forward a bit and put it back in the barn.

if I hadn’t been having all these issues I’d say that it’s fine right now but I’m still baffled at what happened, or what’s continuing to happen.

I talk a lot but do want to leave this with a question. Some of you are worried that I’ve got a cracked head after overheating it. If that’s the case, what would I be seeing now?

You might see a loss of power and coolant. Possibly water in oil.

If its running OK do a compression check. If compression is good and no water in oil you are probably good to go.

Dan

 

[D2Cat]

Might go to your nearby auto supply and "rent" a leak tester for your radiator cap and cooling system. Put the pressure that your cap allows into the system and see if it holds pressure. That will clarify issues with your cooling system.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Might go to your nearby auto supply and "rent" a leak tester for your radiator cap and cooling system. Put the pressure that your cap allows into the system and see if it holds pressure. That will clarify issues with your cooling system.

Great advice and test the cap as well.

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

Might go to your nearby auto supply and "rent" a leak tester for your radiator cap and cooling system. Put the pressure that your cap allows into the system and see if it holds pressure. That will clarify issues with your cooling system.

Bubbles coming to the surface in the radiator (cap off) can be indicative of a cracked head too.

 

[Trimley]

did you blow the actual radiator out too? fine dust finds its way down there, even with the screen, and will block the fins up eventually.

This is my assumption as well. Fine particals get packed in and compress, forming to the fins, slowly choking the air flow.

I always use my leaf blower from a distance, and from both sides of the radiator. Seems to do the trick.

 

[D2Cat]

To actually clean the radiator to it's full potential without removing and rodding is to get the big stuff off with air or water, then spray with something to set and soften the built up dirt. like purple power or something similar. Let the cleaner set for 5-10 minutes then wash it off. Then it's clean!!