Noob looking for a tractor

[rc51stierhoff]

Do need a PTO for at least a Rotary Cutter.
The only thing I can think of needing to move is maybe logs, even those I can probably cut to any size as needed. They would be Ponderosa Pines which are not typically heavy.
Height of lift is not super necessary as well.
Holes would need to be at least 3ft deep to get below frost. Number of holes...not sure as I am just thinking of things I may need.
Snow removal would be nice to have....but I am not up there in the winter as much...but would eventually like to be up there more in the winter or have that option if needed.

My main needs would be for brush and for gravel driveway maintenance and maybe snow removal. The rest would be things that would be nice to have for possible future projects.

Personally as mentioned (runs with scissors) above I am a big fan of forks and I use them more than I do the bucket or grapple. I did not see anything pallet specific to need forks but they are very versatile…you can lift a log with forks but it is hard to lift a pallet correctly with a grapple…grapples are task specific and they are awesome. If you think you might want a grapple or something else on the front that used hydraulics, purchase time is good time to consider a 3rd function on the loader. Likewise if you want to take advantage of hydraulics on the rear to their feature called rear remotes which allows use of hyrdaulics behind the machine to your implements. I’d get those at purchase time if not familiar with hydraulics.
I think from your description you already are sort of in the neighborhood size wise with what you are thinking. But would offer if you can swing it to buy a size larger than you think…it’s common to find out other uses and in a couple years where a little bit bigger goes a long way if you like to buy just once. It’s not my money but I’d recommend buying a size larger than what you think you need. Along with that thought, I’d price many different models as there is a lot of overlap in size and capability and you may be surprised at the price of some larger models where you can get a lot more tractor sometimes for similar or less money.

in your OP it suggested this is first tractor, before buying I’d recommend take a look at tractor mike videos online as well as messicks…tractor mike will have some different safety and operational videos that might give suggestion. iMO messicks is great to share features and comparisons between models.

if a first tractor I’d also consider ballast options prior to purchase (tires, wheel weights, and or other attachments). Tractor Mike will have a video about ballast…it’s worth watching along with his videos on hills if not familiar with a tractor. If not familiar with a center pivot axle watch videos and learn before testing for yourself.

the OEM headlights on a tractor are blocked by a loader/bucket. If you think you may want lights and not do yourself that is another item to consider at purchase time.

Depending on the machine you choose, it would be helpful to ask forum on implement size (width in some cases appropriate for your machine)
ask questions whatever they are…you’ll get lots of thoughts and different options on this site that can help and save you money in the long run.

happy shopping.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

At your altitude, a little extra rated HP will be good. I don't think any of the L's are turbocharged. L3901 should work for you.
FEL with SSQA
4WD for sure
Hydrostatic tranny
Cab, can't help/no snow experience. There is the inconvenience of getting into and out of the cab.
Just stay away from the dreaded orphan, L4701/4802 jk

 

[NCL4701]

Just stay away from the dreaded orphan, L4701/4802 jk

You’re treading on Cathy’s turf there. If you start saying that Cathy won’t have anything to post.

 

[NCL4701]

You may want to consider storage as well since you’re not there full time. If you have an existing structure to store the tractor and implements make sure it fits, particularly if you’re considering a cab. I can fold the ROPs on mine and get through a 7’ high door. ROPs up barely clears a 9’ door (as in about 1” clearance).. You can’t fold a cab. Leaving it all outside at a place you don’t live can be kind of dicey.

Other than that, no need to repeat the good advice you’ve already gotten.

 

[aaarneson]

Thanks for all the help.

I do need to brush hog my property sooner rather than later...so Early September I plan on renting a tractor with a rotary cutter...that should help give me a point of reference of what I may need.

So the L series do not have Turbocharged Motors?

 

[NCL4701]

Thanks for all the help.

I do need to brush hog my property sooner rather than later...so Early September I plan on renting a tractor with a rotary cutter...that should help give me a point of reference of what I may need.

So the L series do not have Turbocharged Motors?

Pretty sure you’d need to step up a couple frame sizes to a MX for a turbo. The L4701/L4802 is slightly larger frame than the L2501 through L3901. The MX is slightly larger frame than the L4701 so it’s a pretty decent step up from the L3901. For loader capacity and pulling power, frame size/weight is at least as important as HP. For PTO work HP is HP regardless of frame size.

Since you don’t live there, if you’re trailering it back and forth, size and weight may be a consideration where more isn’t necessarily better. If the MX series isn’t too large physically and your altitude has you interested in a turbo or you could use significantly more loader capacity, the MX5400 or MX6000 may be worth a look.

 

[aaarneson]

Pretty sure you’d need to step up a couple frame sizes to a MX for a turbo. The L4701/L4802 is slightly larger frame than the L2501 through L3901. The MX is slightly larger frame than the L4701 so it’s a pretty decent step up from the L3901. For loader capacity and pulling power, frame size/weight is at least as important as HP. For PTO work HP is HP regardless of frame size.

Since you don’t live there, if you’re trailering it back and forth, size and weight may be a consideration where more isn’t necessarily better. If the MX series isn’t too large physically and your altitude has you interested in a turbo or you could use significantly more loader capacity, the MX5400 or MX6000 may be worth a look.

Curious if there are any tractors in the 35-40hp range that have the turbo.

 

[Elliott in GA]

Curious if there are any tractors in the 35-40hp range that have the turbo.

Yes - the LX20 series in my previous post (35 and 40 HP with Turbos)

https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/lx20_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=69b0eb03_1

 

[aaarneson]

Yes - the LX20 series in my previous post (35 and 40 HP with Turbos)

https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/lx20_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=69b0eb03_1

Awesome...thanks. Sorry...information. overload

 

[GrizBota]

I prefer to buy used if I can....not a whole lot of options though around me(SW Colorado and Phoenix)....but there are some.

Also why do you say not to have a turbocharged motor? I thought I may need that since I am at a higher elevation...

I’m no not saying not to have a turbo, it’s just that I don’t want one if I can help it. Simply because it’s one more thing to not work. Most folks love turbos and never have any trouble with them. But on the other hand, I really like my L3830 and I’d consider adding a turbo on it if it was easy, so I could get another 10 Hp to run my 5’ brush hog faster in tall grass.

As to buying used nearby, that’s great if you can, but it gets less likely the more specific you are in what you want. But I’m picky, down to the trim line and color and I’ve bought all my cars (used) within 200 miles of home.

Sounds like you know a larger L is an option. You might look at the MX series too. Most of those are 4WD and HST, usually less expensive than a Grand L, probably similar to the Standard Ls. I think the creature comforts between a Standard L and an MX are very similar. If you consider going used, having more viable options makes it easier to find a match.

 

[GrizBota]

Thanks for all the help.

I do need to brush hog my property sooner rather than later...so Early September I plan on renting a tractor with a rotary cutter...that should help give me a point of reference of what I may need.

So the L series do not have Turbocharged Motors?

Standard Ls don’t have a turbo, the larger Grand Ls do. I think all the new MXs have turbos.

My opinion is if you get an LX, turbo or not, you’ll be getting a bigger tractor in a year or two. But hell some folks use BXs and think they are the only way to go.

Download some of the Kubota brochures, LX, Standard L, Grand L, L60 Limited Edition (e.g. Grand L lite, L3560 and L4060) and MX. That last page or two has all the specs, ROPS height, weight, horsepower at PTO, turbo or not, tire size, width, all of it.

BTW, as someone said above, ballast in the tires should be a given. And the extra head lights for plowing is another good one.

 

[aaarneson]

Now I could be reading this wrong but doesn't the direct injection basically mean the same thing as a turbo? This is in regards to the L3301, L3901, L4701

https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/standard_lseries_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=deee519d_2

 

[GrizBota]

Now I could be reading this wrong but doesn't the direct injection basically mean the same thing as a turbo? This is in regards to the L3301, L3901, L4701

https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/standard_lseries_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=deee519d_2

Nope.

Check out the spec sheet for the Grand L series (L60). See the “Turbo with ERG” in the “No. of cylinders/aspiration” row, staring with the L5060. You’ll note all six of the Grand L sizes have direct injection, the first three are “Natural with ERG” for aspiration.

 

[aaarneson]

View attachment 108492
Nope.

Check out the spec sheet for the Grand L series (L60). See the “Turbo with ERG” in the “No. of cylinders/aspiration” row, staring with the L5060. You’ll note all six of the Grand L sizes have direct injection, the first three are “Natural with ERG” for aspiration.

Ok...I see it now. Thanks!

 

[UpNorthMI]

I own both a L3901 and a MX5800, I do not have the altitude like you have but do have over 10 x the woodland acreage that you have. I do not recommend a cab in a woodland environment on a tractor, there are just so many chances of easy damage. I have a track loader with a cab and an excavator with a cab but they are different in how you operate them in woodland.

I quickly learned that for me my tractors all needed third function hydraulics on the loader and 2 pairs of rear remotes for, snow blowers, tilt trailer, hydraulic top link, rear blade hydraulics and many more things, these are not cheap, I recommend you get them day one.

I run medium duty brush cutters, I like the Woods models, 5’ on L3901 and 6’ on MX5800.

I would say a lot depends on your overall financial budget and time you want to spend to get things done. The MX is nice as it has a great lift capacity and masses of HP for your tasks, costs more, more fuel to run. The L3901 is a great tractor, I do find that the lift limits out at about 800lbs of pallet type load if you are using forks or a small grapple. Again it depends on your use and expectations. If I just had 35 acres an L3901 would be a good fit for general use. If you have the money and are concerned about power at elevation I would step up to an MX.

good luck in making a decision.

 

[Vlach7]

I have a L 47 and I live at 5500 feet I find no power issues and it is a TLB, I have both forks and debris forks. I use my debris forks, all the time, and my regular forks about never. The debris Forks save me from having to spend about $3500 for third function and the grapple the debris forks cost about $400.

 

[PaulL]

Now I could be reading this wrong but doesn't the direct injection basically mean the same thing as a turbo? This is in regards to the L3301, L3901, L4701

https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/spec-sheets/standard_lseries_specs.pdf?sfvrsn=deee519d_2

Direct injection means precise fuel metering. Good for fuel economy and power.

Turbo means that it compresses your induction air to a fixed pressure. Which is good at high altitudes, because even though the air starts at 90% or whatever of sea level, the turbo will still pump it up to the same 2 bar or 3 bar or whatever. So a turbo gives more benefit at altitude - a turbo motor will still make rated power even at higher altitudes.

At least, that's my understanding.

 

[ve9aa]

You've been given some great advice so far, so I won't contradict any of that.
If money is a concern and you don't have allergies and a little cold won't bother you, skip the cab.

Also, if you plan to spend a lot of time in the woods, cabs can be expensive (and costly to repair. (trees may jump out at you)_

Also, money-wise, adding a grapple can be expensive and really only good for moving logs. (Oh, sure there are other things, I am sure)

but---forks can do a lot and they're pretty cheap. I waited a year or so to buy forks and now find them my 2nd most used implement. You wouldn't believe the stuff you can do with forks. I even break off the occasional dead tree branch or even dig up small trees with forks, which had never occurred to me before.

#1 use for my toy tractor is snow removal....but if I had to choose the #1 "thing to move stuff" it would be the pallet forks over a bucket or grapple.

Sorry for being long winded. Some good nuggets of advice (above, in others' posts)

 

[aaarneson]

Thanks all for the help.

 

[jdgcolo]

Hi
aaarneson

As mentioned in my earlier post I purchased a used (50 hours) MX5400 HSTC. It was basically new. I filled the back tires with Bioballast and have wheel weights on the back rims. I chose this tractor because I needed the loader capacity and I wanted the hydrostatic drive. The loader on the MX matched up to the SSA loader attachments we had in the yard. The turbo makes a difference at our altitude. The cab makes my wife happy and that makes me happy. She has operated this tractor more than I have. I keep this tractor outside but it does fit under the 9' door into the shop.

With the scrub oak, pinyon, and pine where you live you should buy a grill guard. It can help prevent damage in the woods and when moving logs or brush. There are several grill guard designs discussed on this forum. The cab is a personal choice but was a 7 to 10 k cost depending on the model. As mentioned in other posts, I recommend that you fill the back tires with ballast. For road work and digging you will want to add a tooth/wear bar to the loader bucket. It is almost impossible to dig in our soil without the tooth bar. Search the forum for bar choices and recommendations.