New To Us M8540

[392 Goat]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the help with the buying advice from the few Kubotas we were thinking about.

We ended us buying a M8540 4x4 Cab and loader. Has 2600 hrs. Everything works as it should with no immediate problems.

It does need a new 24x10 6 loop inner ( wont hold much air ) going to try to bend it back but its seen better days, other side is newer but I found one and will order it.

Should I do all the filters and change the fluids? It was a street transportation municipal unit for a city. I bought it from the guy who bought it a few years back. It shows 6-2022 on the belts. Not sure on the filters.

I ordered a manual and it should be here next week. It has a few small leaks, I believe hub seals, one front and back same side and the oil pan gasket may need replaced. We towed it from east Az to Southern Oregon and not much leaks on our trailer.

This is our 1st tractor. I used one for over a year in my 20s for work and we just bought our own. So how concerning are the small leaks? Its i believe a 12' or 13' and it is pre emissions. We are not rich, so i was going to fix things as we went along and when they needed it.

To me, its ready to roll. Drove it and tested it and everything works as it should and no overheating.

So should it change filters and fluids to be fresh now? Keep up on the fluids in the axles and address it later?

Not going to use the tractor much now because its so dry and im not about the be the one to set North Grants Pass on Fire ! Lol

Any advice would be super appreciated. You all are awesome. Ty

 

[Russell King]

If it was me I would change all the fluids (front axle, transmission, radiator, engine oil) so you know when it was done and know what fluids were used. And change the filters (hydraulic, engine and air) also.

It will cost quite a bit to do all of it but I would use Kubota branded filters for sure. The engine oil can be your favorite brand but must be rated for a diesel engine. The transmission fluid should probably be Kubota SUDT2 full synthetic if the tractor is HST drive. But that is expensive.

You also need to grease all the grease points on the tractor and FEL.

Welcome to the Orange family!

 

[JasonW]

Pictures show it’s a hydraulic shuttle. No HST M-series.

How bad are the oil leaks? If you don’t plan on using it right away I would fix the oil leaks as you change the fluid.
No sense in changing the front axle oil to take it all apart in a month to change seals.

I would check/torque all the lug nuts, wheel bolts and loader mounting bolts.

When I bought my M6040 it was almost 1k for fluid and filters to service everything. And that was me doing the work.

 

[Tx Jim]

If frt end loader will be used to load objects on a trailer then I highly recommend installing a front grill/hood guard. I've owned a '11 M7040 hyd shuttle that I purchased used in '12 with a 137 hrs that has 1900 hrs showing on speed/hr meter that has handled many 100's of rd bales, 7 ft rotary cutter & 9' disc cutter. I really like the operation of the hyd shuttle.

 

[BAP]

If the rim is Not cracked or rusted, I would just throw a tube in the tire and keep going.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Good looking rig. I see it has weights on the left rear but not the right, so I'd guess it was used with a side mower.

The first thing I noticed is that the fronts are at their maximum width. Since the front axle pivots in the center, that doesn't really add much to stability. But it does increase the load on the wheel bearings, especially when using the loader. I'd consider pulling those fronts in some.

 

[392 Goat]

Thank you everyone for your input !

Im going to Order the filters and fluids and do it myself. Ill look over the manual and get to know all the points that I need to grease. We are back in Oregon and its off the trailer.

Phew, what a trip lol

 

[PoTreeBoy]

AZ to OR, I'd say so.

 

[392 Goat]

AZ to OR, I'd say so.

Yeah it went fine, still lots of thinking the whole trip ha.

So I did find this Inner Rim ans seems a good price. I need a 24x10 6 loop for that front I want to replace. I asked them if it will fit my kubota but haven't heard back.



Its like $280 or something shipped. Local dealer wanted like $325 for a silver one and $150 to pc it orange.

Also with bringing in the front Axles, Google said i cant do that but can swap the rims or reverse them to bring them in some. Am I understanding this correctly or am I missing something?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Also with bringing in the front Axles, Google said i cant do that but can swap the rims or reverse them to bring them in some. Am I understanding this correctly or am I missing something?

You can turn the inner disk around so it dishes in vs out. Also bolt the rim to the disk on the inside vs outside. The owner's manual shows it.

 

[392 Goat]

You can turn the inner disk around so it dishes in vs out. Also bolt the rim to the disk on the inside vs outside. The owner's manual shows it.

Ok I thought I read that. I ordered a paper copy so I can see it better with my eyes lol. Ill have some fun to ready though when it come in.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

As already suggested, I would change the fluids so you have a “starting point reference”.

The leaks?

I suppose it depends a little on how bad they are, and how “picky” you are.

On my truck, my power steering pump has needed a seal for about 5 years……a 7 dollar can of PS fluid lasts me quite a while, but maybe I’ll get to it next week? (or maybe not )

Either way, “congrats" on the new machine!!!

 

[JohnDB]

It has a few small leaks, I believe hub seals, one front and back same side

That front hub seal leak may be due to the spaced out front rim on that side. I'd pay particular attention to it as it may be a symptom of deeper issues in that area. Like others have said, the tractor may have been used for side mounted mower, so a lot of load on that side, so I'd also try to check the rear bearing condition without pulling everything apart. When you drain those compartments keep an eye out for metal. Not saying that its bad, but to my mind just being prudent.