New (to me) BX and to the forum

[GreX]

Hello-
I've been lurking these forums for about a month, and recently took delivery of a 2019 BX2380 with 89.5 hours on it. I've never owned a proper tractor, I've been using a Ryobi riding mower for most tasks (mowing, seeding, detaching, aeration, and snow removal), so this thing seems massive to me. I'm excited to see the capabilities of the machine, as it does seem WAY more capable. The tractor came with a 60" mower deck, front loader (quick connect), rear snowblower, and the power bagger for mowing (they also threw in a trailer as part of the deal). The previous owner said that the 50 hour service was completed, but by a friend of his.

All this to say, I have a couple of questions. First off, any big things I should be focused on to ensure this thing will last for years to come? I've cleaned it throughly (it appeared this thing sat outside for most or all of its previous life, as it was filthy), lubed all zirks, replaced the air filer, and purchased a few extra goodies for ease of use.

When I was cleaning the rear end, I checked the transmission fluid level, and the dipstick was dry. I picked up some transmission fluid at tractor supply (Kubota dealer is closed on Sunday's), and started with 1/2 a quart, and still nothing on the dipstick.. I added the full quart, and finally there was a level of reading on the dipstick, which was about midway between low and high in the hashed area of the dipstick. I also noticed a little puddle of fluid below the drain plug, so I tightened that as well. Is this a known issue with these transmissions? I'm hoping to come out tomorrow and see no fluid below the drain plug, but who knows.

The other question, when I was cleaning the front of the tractor, I checked the engine oil, and if the oil only has 40 hours on it, should the engine oil look very black on the dipstick? These two things make me wonder if the 50 hour service was actually completed? Both the engine and transmission filters are white, which I believe are aftermarket, but are there any other things I can check to 'prove' if the service was actually completed?

I will be reaching out to the dealer to see what they'd charge for a piece of mind 50 hour service (at 90 hours) just to be sure, but I'm wondering if I inherited someone's problem child? Any tips, tricks, advice on these items would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Edke6bnl]

Diesel engine oil can turn dark real fast. You will be getting a lot of feedback soon on not using the special Kubota hyd. Oil. Not here for a fight picked mine up with no hyd oil sitting outside for 8 years, threw in Universal tran/hyd for the last year. Does have a small leak but has not needed any fluid in a year. That new, don't do like me and put in the correct utd fluid. Enjoy?

 

[hagrid]

this thing seems massive to me.

thats what she said!

 

[GreX]

thats what she said!

Oh I know, says it all too often

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Welcome. Sounds like you got a nice package of stuff there. Personally, I’d get the manual and read it (same for your implements). After that, decide you want to do the service yourself or not? Even if not doing yourself, read the manual to understand what should be done so you can check that it was completed. If it were me, I’d have all fluids and filters replaced and torques checked…and then I would not have to look back. It’s not my money though. Just MHO. If you decide to change the fluids, don’t forget the torques…if previous owner did not change the oil or keep filled (low oil level to me is a flag), then I would bet they did not check wheel bolt/lug torque…for piece of mind check it. With your implements if they take oil / grease, same thing as above.

From your info it looks like you are in Maine? Maybe consider a block heater…if taking in for the service add it to the bill…if it were me I would. I have block heaters on both my current machines and on the BX I used to have.

Also I’d recommend you read about ballasting a tractor…as you use it you will find it has more capability than you imagined…read about ballasting and maybe also about rigging your f that is unfamiliar to you. You will find the loader to be very helpful, but research how to safely.

And don’t be afraid to ask…Either way good luck and welcome.

 

[GreX]

I have read the manuals several times, all the stuff seems pretty easy to do, especially compared to new(er) vehicles - I need to drop three different skid plates to change my truck's oil. I mostly wanted piece of mind that the dealer did it correctly, but if that is more of a 'smoke & mirrors' thing, then I'll just get the stuff to do it myself. Stated above, why would I NOT go with the factory oils? If I can simply go with something like a Mobil 1, at a 5w40, then it sounds like I should just go this route, as I know the quality will be great. Again, I've never had a tractor, or a diesel engine of any sort, so I don't know what I don't know, other than what the manual says, and that's using Kubota branded stuff. If I am to go the non-Kubota route, is there a preferred transmission oil as well, or just any ol' 80 or 90 weight? Should I also get new engine and transmission drain plugs (and of course crush washers) to ensure everything is as it should be?

As for the block heater, that doesn't seem like a thing I need, given the tractor will be living in a heated garage.

And I've for sure read about ballast weights, the rear tires are loaded, which I know gives it a bit more capacity, but I'm looking at a 3-point hitch setup so I can add even more, but could be overkill since it will likely only be used for mulch and a bit of dirt moving.

 

[fried1765]

I have read the manuals several times, all the stuff seems pretty easy to do, especially compared to new(er) vehicles - I need to drop three different skid plates to change my truck's oil. I mostly wanted piece of mind that the dealer did it correctly, but if that is more of a 'smoke & mirrors' thing, then I'll just get the stuff to do it myself. Stated above, why would I NOT go with the factory oils? If I can simply go with something like a Mobil 1, at a 5w40, then it sounds like I should just go this route, as I know the quality will be great. Again, I've never had a tractor, or a diesel engine of any sort, so I don't know what I don't know, other than what the manual says, and that's using Kubota branded stuff. If I am to go the non-Kubota route, is there a preferred transmission oil as well, or just any ol' 80 or 90 weight? Should I also get new engine and transmission drain plugs (and of course crush washers) to ensure everything is as it should be?

As for the block heater, that doesn't seem like a thing I need, given the tractor will be living in a heated garage.

And I've for sure read about ballast weights, the rear tires are loaded, which I know gives it a bit more capacity, but I'm looking at a 3-point hitch setup so I can add even more, but could be overkill since it will likely only be used for mulch and a bit of dirt moving.

If you do nothing else.....use Kubota SUDT-2 hydraulic oil for the hydraulic/transmission system.
Kubota has their hydraulic oil formulated with additives that they claim are unique to their Kubota branded equipment.
Many oils will claim to be "equivalent", but there is just no way to prove equivalency.
You have a multi thousands of dollars valued piece of machinery.....do not try to cheap out on oils and filters.

For the engine, you can use any Dino diesel rated oil such as DELO, or Rotella, though many here will recommend pure synthetic, especially since you live in the cold North land.

My L48 TLB originally came from Union Farm Equipment in Union, ME., though I bought it from a private party.

Many on here have mentioned that the front axle oil (SUDT-2) level should be checked...... even with a new tractor purchase.

 

[GreX]

If you do nothing else.....use Kubota SUDT-2 hydraulic oil for the hydraulic/transmission system.]
Kubota has their hydraulic oil formulated with additives that they claim are unique to their Kubota branded equipment.
Many oils will claim to be "equivalent", but there is just no way to prove equivalency.
You have a multi thousands of dollars valued piece of machinery.....do not try to cheap out on oils and filters.

For the engine, you can use any Dino diesel rated oil such as DELO, or Rotella, though many here will recommend pure synthetic, especially since you live in the cold North land.

My L48 TLB originally came from Union Farm Equipment in Union, ME. though I bought it from a private party.

Many on here have mentioned that the front axle oil (SUDT-2) level should be checked...... even with a new tractor purchase.

Sounds good on the transmission oil, and all suggested oils are MUCH cheaper than Mobil 1, so not trying to cheap out at all, I agree, I paid a good chunk of change for the machine and would like it to last. Thanks for the insights.

I also forgot to mention I did check the front axle oil, and that was well within the normal levels - and the fluid looked nice and clean.

 

[Nate77]

Filters are painted Kubota gray from the factory, so I’m sure the 50 hour service was completed. The hydraulic oil was probably low due to not replacing what was lost during the hydraulic filter change.

 

[GreX]

Filters are painted Kubota gray from the factory, so I’m sure the 50 hour service was completed. The hydraulic oil was probably low due to not replacing what was lost during the hydraulic filter change.

Thanks, that's kind of what I thought with the white filters. I do think the transmission was low, as there does appear to be an actual leak from the case.. I cleaned it off the best I could yesterday, and there was a new little puddle under there this morning, and it's clearly seeping from the rear side of the transfer case, seems like the seal wasn't done properly - hopefully a warranty issue, since its only 3 years old and well under the 2,000 hour mark (at 90.1 today).

 

[Snowman7]

Have fun and since you are new to tractors take every precaution so you NEVER put gasoline in your diesel tractor. I sold fuel for 14 years and yes it does happen. It is a terrible look on someone’s face when they walk in the store and tell you they just put 10 gallons of gas in their new Duramax before they realized.

 

[GreX]

Have fun and since you are new to tractors take every precaution so you NEVER put gasoline in your diesel tractor. I sold fuel for 14 years and yes it does happen. It is a terrible look on someone’s face when they walk in the store and tell you they just put 10 gallons of gas in their new Duramax before they realized.

Ooff - that's gotta hurt.. I only have battery operated yard equipment (until now), so should be pretty easy to not put the electrodes in the diesel for fill up but, thanks for the information.

 

[fried1765]

Have fun and since you are new to tractors take every precaution so you NEVER put gasoline in your diesel tractor. I sold fuel for 14 years and yes it does happen. It is a terrible look on someone’s face when they walk in the store and tell you they just put 10 gallons of gas in their new Duramax before they realized.

That is not a BIG problem........unless/until they start that Duramax!

 

[JimDeL]

Grex said: " is there a preferred transmission oil as well, or just any ol' 80 or 90 weight? "

DO NOT use 80/90 weight gear oil in your transmission! It uses hydraulic oil - preferably the Kubota Super UDT. Gear oil will likely ruin your whole transmission and hydraulic system.

Kubota does allow use of 80/90 weight gear oil in the FRONT AXLE ONLY. I've stuck with the UDT in mine.

 

[JimDeL]

BTW, if you're going to use the tractor with the mower deck removed (snow removal, woods use, etc.) be sure to get an aftermarket skid plate for it. BXpanded is a good one.
There's a plastic fan under there that's for cooling the hydraulics, and it's exposed to damage from sticks, rocks, and debris without a mower deck or skid plate installed. Replacing the ($29.00) fan is a 4~6 hour repair job - so about $500 at your dealer. Skid plate is under $200, so worthwhile.

Another tip: You've said you greased everything. Dis that include the fitting that's under the floor mat, adjacent the forward/reverse pedals? There's a small flap in the mat that lifts up to expose that fitting.

 

[GreX]

BTW, if you're going to use the tractor with the mower deck removed (snow removal, woods use, etc.) be sure to get an aftermarket skid plate for it. BXpanded is a good one.
There's a plastic fan under there that's for cooling the hydraulics, and it's exposed to damage from sticks, rocks, and debris without a mower deck or skid plate installed. Replacing the ($29.00) fan is a 4~6 hour repair job - so about $500 at your dealer. Skid plate is under $200, so worthwhile.

Another tip: You've said you greased everything. Dis that include the fitting that's under the floor mat, adjacent the forward/reverse pedals? There's a small flap in the mat that lifts up to expose that fitting.

Thanks for the information about the gear oil, I'm having the Kubota dealer come pick up the tractor and do an oil change as well as see what is leaking (hopefully under warranty), which I'll have them change the transmission fluid as well - I'd like to start off with this thing having 'factory' settings (at 90 hours).

And the skid plate was something i was wondering about, when I was under there cleaning and wiping things down, I saw the said fan, and how exposed it is, I'll be picking one of those up.

Lastly, for the floor flap, yeah, got that one, I actually removed the full floor mat (popped all 8 or 9 clips off) and cleaned under there as well.

 

[WhatnxtBX]

One other issue that you might have the Dealership look at is a leaking Quick Release fitting for the FEL. Many have had leaking issues and have had the Dealership update the fitting.

 

[GreX]

BTW, if you're going to use the tractor with the mower deck removed (snow removal, woods use, etc.) be sure to get an aftermarket skid plate for it. BXpanded is a good one.
There's a plastic fan under there that's for cooling the hydraulics, and it's exposed to damage from sticks, rocks, and debris without a mower deck or skid plate installed. Replacing the ($29.00) fan is a 4~6 hour repair job - so about $500 at your dealer. Skid plate is under $200, so worthwhile.

Another tip: You've said you greased everything. Dis that include the fitting that's under the floor mat, adjacent the forward/reverse pedals? There's a small flap in the mat that lifts up to expose that fitting.

Was just under $190 shipped, if anyone else is looking for the skid plate. Thanks again for the brand name.

 

[GreX]

One other issue that you might have the Dealership look at is a leaking Quick Release fitting for the FEL. Many have had leaking issues and have had the Dealership update the fitting.

I'll make sure to have them take a look at that, should I simply say I've noticed a bit of fluid coming from the quick connector?

 

[WhatnxtBX]

I'll make sure to have them take a look at that, should I simply say I've noticed a bit of fluid coming from the quick connector?

That would be good.

This connector, it helps to rock it back and forth to seat it well. Make sure everything is clean. Slowly engage the connector lever. It is easy to get it not seated flush.