New (to me) BX and to the forum

[dirtydeed]

Any reason to never use it on a paved surface? I know the turning radius suffers, where it will skip, at least that's how my truck's 4 wheel drive system works. I think the only time I'd want to use the 4x4 on a paved surface, is when using the snow blower. Maybe I've reading too much in to the word 'never'?

Congrats on your new machine...

You can add the word "never" to dry pavement only. Snow, ice you'll be fine on pavement in 4x4

One more trick you can use when trying to slip them in and out of 4x4 when all else fails is to simply lift the front wheels off the ground with the loader. Then do your 4x4 change. It works like a charm every time.

 

[ve9aa]

I've mowed the (2 acres of) lawn before in 4WD.......I did notice the front axle got pretty warm.
By and large, my lawn is fairly flat but here and there it's hilly, so I used to switch it in
and out of 4wd all the time. (small pita) Now I just leave it in.

I don't think it hurts anything.

Comments?

 

[johnjk]

May want to do it yourself if you have the time and skills. I would do all fluids and filters to get a level set going forward. Bought my BIL’s B1700 a few years back and he had a stack of paperwork showing all maintenance. Well I did the full fluids and filters and found 3 o rings jammed in the fuel filter. Had to cut that filter apart to get it off. The other thing was the front axle oil was way low and dark and thick. Judging by the lack of witness marks on the drain plug, my BIL paid for several services on the front axle and got none. For comparison my B3200 is several years old and just closing in on 200 hrs. The oil is clean and clear. Probably the same on that fuel filter since it took me almost 30 min to remove it.
Anyway it’s a great way to familiarize yourself with your new tractor. I’d check all the grease fittings and lube those as well. Finally check your battery and make sure the terminals are clean and tight. Welcome to the forum

 

[GreX]

May want to do it yourself if you have the time and skills. I would do all fluids and filters to get a level set going forward. Bought my BIL’s B1700 a few years back and he had a stack of paperwork showing all maintenance. Well I did the full fluids and filters and found 3 o rings jammed in the fuel filter. Had to cut that filter apart to get it off. The other thing was the front axle oil was way low and dark and thick. Judging by the lack of witness marks on the drain plug, my BIL paid for several services on the front axle and got none. For comparison my B3200 is several years old and just closing in on 200 hrs. The oil is clean and clear. Probably the same on that fuel filter since it took me almost 30 min to remove it.
Anyway it’s a great way to familiarize yourself with your new tractor. I’d check all the grease fittings and lube those as well. Finally check your battery and make sure the terminals are clean and tight. Welcome to the forum

I have the time and the skill, but I want the dealer to take a look at everything on the tractor and help me feel better about buying used. I will be doing the maintenance on the tractor moving forward, as I don't want to pay them $75 just to come pick up/drop off the thing + the $110/hr labor they're going to charge. And to be fair, these things are quite simple compared to the vehicles in my garage.

As for the zerks, all of them were cleaned and lubed by me, including the ones on the attachments. Once the tractor is back from the dealer, I'll check the battery terminals, as that is one thing I didn't do, I did clean inside the battery area, just didn't think to check the connections. I also need to check torque on the wheels, as that was another thing I didn't do before they took it.

 

[xrocketengineer]

Here is one more thing to check on your tractor before making any big plans: Propeller Shaft Boot

 

[GreX]

Here is one more thing to check on your tractor before making any big plans: Propeller Shaft Boot

Eek, that doesn't look like a fun job, but an engine hoist is pretty cheap to rent or buy used, so doable, but I've never removed an engine, could be a good project to give it a go though. But in reality I'd likely just pay someone to have it done

One thing in that thread that was talked about was KTac insurance, but when I looked around, that seems to be a 'home owners' insurance add on for a tractor (from Kubota) but only for folks who are financing their tractors, is that something that you can add after the fact on a fully paid for tractor? Or am I better off just letting my insurance know I have a tractor now?

 

[xrocketengineer]

Eek, that doesn't look like a fun job, but an engine hoist is pretty cheap to rent or buy used, so doable, but I've never removed an engine, could be a good project to give it a go though. But in reality I'd likely just pay someone to have it done

One thing in that thread that was talked about was KTac insurance, but when I looked around, that seems to be a 'home owners' insurance add on for a tractor (from Kubota) but only for folks who are financing their tractors, is that something that you can add after the fact on a fully paid for tractor? Or am I better off just letting my insurance know I have a tractor now?

It is not that bad of a job on the 80 series since there is a removable spacer between the pulley and the shaft. So, no engine shifting required, see entry #8. Besides the same spacer needs to come off in order to replace the alternator belt.
As far as the insurance goes, I do have it since I bought the tractor new but it is for mishaps and not for mechanical breakage.

 

[GreX]

It is not that bad of a job on the 80 series since there is a removable spacer between the pulley and the shaft. So, no engine shifting required, see entry #8. Besides the same spacer needs to come off in order to replace the alternator belt.
As far as the insurance goes, I do have it since I bought the tractor new but it is for mishaps and not for mechanical breakage.

Got it, I had a bit of a hard time following that thread, as some said they were able to do it without moving the engine out of the way, thanks for clearing that up for me. Makes me much less intimidated than I was 24 hours ago

Makes sense, I'll just let my insurance know I now have a tractor.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[JeremyBX2200]

Congrats on the new BX. I got my first one almost 3 years ago shortly after I purchased my new 5 acre property that had been completely neglected. It is one of the best purchases I have made.

Even thought the BX is small as far as tractors go you will find it is very capable.....it will just take longer to do things that a larger tractor would do quickly.

I would recommend looking in to a way to have rear ballast if you will be using the FEL. I use my box blade.

 

[GreX]

Congrats on the new BX. I got my first one almost 3 years ago shortly after I purchased my new 5 acre property that had been completely neglected. It is one of the best purchases I have made.

Even thought the BX is small as far as tractors go you will find it is very capable.....it will just take longer to do things that a larger tractor would do quickly.

I would recommend looking in to a way to have rear ballast if you will be using the FEL. I use my box blade.

Luckily I only have a chunk of property that's just under 1 acre, and if you remove the house/driveway/garage, I think I'm left with about .45-.5 acre to maintain, so the BX should be more than enough. I do have a bunch of trees with mulch beds under them, so mulch will be one of the main things I need to haul around with the loader. As you have said, I do need to come up with a solution for ballast weight, since I do have some decent slopes. I'm hoping the power bagger/hydraulic hitch for that thing will be enough weight to help (along with the 60" mower deck), since that has to weight somewhere around 250 lbs, I could be wrong, but I can't lift the power bagger setup, and the mower deck seems pretty heavy as well (I know thats in the middle, but should really help with center of gravity).

 

[Henro]

I will also have to ask/call around and see if we have anything like an off road fueling station, given that diesel fuel is $5.95/gal here in the Portland (Maine) area.

A mistake I made when I bought my first Kubota was buying off road fuel at a low turnover place. Plugged my fuel filter up pretty quickly.

Learned my lesson and afterwards only bought fuel at a high turnover location. But there was no good place to buy off road fuel close to me, so I quickly learned it was cheaper in time and money just to buy on road fuel given the amount I use every year.

Keep this in mind and avoid the problems I had 18 years ago.

Edit: Time flies by. I think that was 20 years ago now...LOL...

 

[JeremyBX2200]

Luckily I only have a chunk of property that's just under 1 acre, and if you remove the house/driveway/garage, I think I'm left with about .45-.5 acre to maintain, so the BX should be more than enough. I do have a bunch of trees with mulch beds under them, so mulch will be one of the main things I need to haul around with the loader. As you have said, I do need to come up with a solution for ballast weight, since I do have some decent slopes. I'm hoping the power bagger/hydraulic hitch for that thing will be enough weight to help (along with the 60" mower deck), since that has to weight somewhere around 250 lbs, I could be wrong, but I can't lift the power bagger setup, and the mower deck seems pretty heavy as well (I know thats in the middle, but should really help with center of gravity).

The place I moved from was about an acre and a BX would have made my life easier there too.

It is quite possible the power bagger could provide enough ballast. As you use the BX you will figure out what items will benefit you and what won't.

I am lucky that a place by my work rents attachments. I can rent a tiller for $85 as apposed top buying one for $2000. For an attachment I use 1-2 times a year rent is the way to go.

For me a box blade was a must have. I needed to maintain my gravel drive plus be able to level/move dirt around a bit.

For you a 3pt carry all type might work well. You would be able to lift a pallet with it and could transport landscaping supplies/equipment at the same time you use the FEL for the mulch.

 

[fried1765]

Eek, that doesn't look like a fun job, but an engine hoist is pretty cheap to rent or buy used, so doable, but I've never removed an engine, could be a good project to give it a go though. But in reality I'd likely just pay someone to have it done

One thing in that thread that was talked about was KTac insurance, but when I looked around, that seems to be a 'home owners' insurance add on for a tractor (from Kubota) but only for folks who are financing their tractors, is that something that you can add after the fact on a fully paid for tractor? Or am I better off just letting my insurance know I have a tractor now?

As I understand it, KTAC insurance is only available on new tractors financed by Kubota.
I have never bought a NEW Kubota!
If you want to insure your Kubota, you can likely do it inexpensively as an add on to your homeowners policy.
If you do not specify replacement value coverage, you tractor may be seriously depreciated for age, if a loss occurs.
Your HO policy will then cover you for fire and/or theft, but only on your own property, and not for breakage of the machine, or parts.
From what I can determine KTAC insurance is an excellent value, but neither you nor I are eligible for it.

 

[GreX]

As I understand it, KTAC insurance is only available on new tractors financed by Kubota.
I have never bought a NEW Kubota!
If you want to insure your Kubota, you can likely do it inexpensively as an add on to your homeowners policy.
If you do not specify replacement value coverage, you tractor may be seriously depreciated for age, if a loss occurs.
Your HO policy will then cover you for fire and/or theft, but only on your own property, and not for breakage of the machine, or parts.
From what I can determine KTAC insurance is an excellent value, but neither you nor I are eligible for it.

I called them today, since its not for a business purpose, they cover the tractor and attachments up to $20k for no additional cost to the homeowner's policy - they said they can add coverage for the new replacement cost of ~$28k with all the attachments, but since I bought it used, I don't feel I need to do this. I'm fine with covering my own breakages and parts, since that seems to be the price of admission for owning a vehicle/tractor.

 

[fried1765]

I called them today, since its not for a business purpose, they cover the tractor and attachments up to $20k for no additional cost to the homeowner's policy - they said they can add coverage for the new replacement cost of ~$28k with all the attachments, but since I bought it used, I don't feel I need to do this. I'm fine with covering my own breakages and parts, since that seems to be the price of admission for owning a vehicle/tractor.

What you did makes sense!
I bought my TLB used also, but I have a replacement value rider on my HO policy.
I was really not suggesting replacement coverage for just your tractor, but replacement value for everything under your homeowner policy.

Example: you loose a 15 year old living room sofa in a fire:
Policy will pay depreciated value.....maybe $50?
If you have replacement value coverage.....policy will pay you $3,000? to buy a new sofa.

If you can, I would get something IN WRITING, about how they would ACTUALLY determine the PAY OUT value for your tractor in a loss situation.
Insurance companies are sleazy in most every respect!

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I do need to come up with a solution for ballast weight, since I do have some decent slopes.

I use my backhoe mostly, but there's also the carry-all and IBC tote option. Pretty cheap, as ballast goes. Used with the bottle (the plastic container) and liquid, it's really cheap. Downside is that your ballast sloshes around. Maybe not so good on slopes. Used with just the cage and [insert random heavy objects] it works great and is stable. Used with the bottom of the bottle filled with dirt, works great and is stable.

IBC totes are all over Craigslist. You don't need food grade, so keep an eye open and you'll probably find a good deal. A couple of years ago i scored 16 of them at $20 each, and one of them came with about 50-ish gallons of good quality, new, antifreeze!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I use my backhoe mostly, but there's also the carry-all and IBC tote option. Pretty cheap, as ballast goes. Used with the bottle (the plastic container) and liquid, it's really cheap. Downside is that your ballast sloshes around. Maybe not so good on slopes. Used with just the cage and [insert random heavy objects] it works great and is stable. Used with the bottom of the bottle filled with dirt, works great and is stable.

IBC totes are all over Craigslist. You don't need food grade, so keep an eye open and you'll probably find a good deal. A couple of years ago i scored 16 of them at $20 each, and one of them came with about 50-ish gallons of good quality, new, antifreeze!

If after cheap and want to use a tote, you don’t have to use liquid…cut the top off and use whatever….concrete, blocks, sand, rocks, etc. still a cheap option and should not slosh and can also remove depending on the use…if not done carefully the objects could shift though on your hills?

 

[ve9aa]

Luckily I only have a chunk of property that's just under 1 acre, and if you remove the house/driveway/garage, I think I'm left with about .45-.5 acre to maintain, so the BX should be more than enough. I do have a bunch of trees with mulch beds under them, so mulch will be one of the main things I need to haul around with the loader. As you have said, I do need to come up with a solution for ballast weight, since I do have some decent slopes. I'm hoping the power bagger/hydraulic hitch for that thing will be enough weight to help (along with the 60" mower deck), since that has to weight somewhere around 250 lbs, I could be wrong, but I can't lift the power bagger setup, and the mower deck seems pretty heavy as well (I know thats in the middle, but should really help with center of gravity).

In the fall there's a short time where I have taken off the mower, but still use the FEL.
I really notice the 225-250lbs (or whatever it is) missing when the mower deck is removed.

After one scary event just trying to lift a roll of fencing with my pallet forks,(rear wheels off the ground!)
I always use rear ballast with the FEL.

The only exception to using rear ballast might be when I'm doing "smoothing out" of the mixed gravel driveway (mostly scraping and backdragging) on a flat surface, before winter hits, I don't think I need ballast for that. (nothing much, if anything, in the bucket.)

All it takes is once!

 

[GreX]

The tractor does have loaded rear tires, I'm not sure how much weight that adds? And reading above about totes, I wonder if you could fill one with concrete (let harden) and use that as a big block for weight, shouldn't have to worry at all with anything moving/sloshing around.

I will say, when the mower deck gets pulled, the snow blade goes on, at least on my small riding mower, which I will likely do the same with this tractor - mostly for storage space, but seems it will help with ballast as well.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

And reading above about totes, I wonder if you could fill one with concrete (let harden) and use that as a big block for weight, shouldn't have to worry at all with anything moving/sloshing around.

That should work. You could decide how much you need and pour that amount. Find the weight of cured concrete online. You could even mix it right in the tote. It really won't need any strength. You could use the post-setting stuff and skip the rebar.


BTW, an oscillating tool with a scraping blade or a serrated blade works well for cutting the plastic, and doesn't leave a snowstorm of plastic particles the way a regular saw blade will. I found out that's pretty messy.