Was on hiatus for a day and didn't realize how many replies I got haha. I'll try my best to address all points and feedback. I also didn't realize how much of a PITA it was to multi-quote here (or maybe I'm doing it wrong)... I find myself having to click reply on each message individually
IMO, great choice on the tractor! I have 11 acres and feel it is just the right size for me. It has been a beast for clearing downed trees which was main reason for purchase. With a grapple I can do in an hour what would take me a day without……all whilst not straining my back.
It sounds like you did great on the price! I got mine about a month and a half ago and paid a bit under the pricing on the Kubota site. My dealer wanted a premium for any add-on so I just went with the loader and did the 3rd function and grapple on my own.
Did you have to order of was your tractor available? Be sure to post some pics when you get it and put it to work!
(edit…..just saw your last post with the ETA. Oh, and congrats!)
Shekkie, I was checking out a few of your posts on the LX before I 100% committed to pulling the trigger and some of your info helped solidify my choice. I actually lucked out and noticed that the dealer I went to had two crated LX2610 units out back along with an LX2610SU for me to check out and a used LX2610 to test drive - I think I lucked out. They also had a ton of Ls and a few Bs on site too so the boss and I looked at their offering and decided on the LX. I REALLY wanted the L because I am a fan of overkill, but it would have been uncomfortable to maneuver on my property... maybe in the future if I end up with 20 acres I'll pick up a 2nd tractor
Hopefully they don't cost 100k by then. I also ordered a third function kit to be on the safe side, how much of a PITA was it to install?
My dealer was a 'hole in the wall' and not a 'Messick's-type shop' with the General manager, one admin, one sales guy, and parts/service team. The smaller, the better. Being this is a Kubota and there's a dealer on every corner, I'm not concerned with getting decent service anywhere I go.
You are in the right track. In my opinion forks are more versatile than a grapple. Grapples don’t haul pallets so well. But forks can haul brush and logs. Have you Considered some lifting straps, shackles and hooks for your bucket and / or forks.
Yeah I think I'll stick with the forks for the short-term and if I find my woods work to be a PITA with it, I'll upgrade. The grapple would be real nice to pick up all the smaller branches and crap that accumulates on the ground though... Either way, I'm going with the Kubota third function kit just in case. I saw a video on the differences between land pride and Kubota OEM and the Kubota is well worth it for the ~$100 price difference (hard lines in the front, more organized hydraulic hoses, refined, OEM). I do plan on going with bolt on hooks and shackles, I forget who the vendor was but they are like $30 bucks a pop - a bargain compared to having to screw around with the welder and taking paint off my loader bucket when I don't have to.
I don't have any specialized straps besides ratchet straps - I'll have to look into those. I am like a kid in a candy store looking at tractor 'mods' now
I am REALLY looking forward to being able to unload my truck bed without asking the wife to come outside and give me a hand
sounds like a 'good deal'. I'd let the dealer do the 50hr oil + filter changes . It's the most important one.
get your buddy to make the toothbar, super easy with a LASER and a LOT cheaper. Made mine from
'dumpsterdive' steel, yes, have to sharpen the teeth 2-3 times a year...only takes 10-15 minutes.
Glad to hear it! I do all my own vehicle service at home besides the new 'computerized' transmission flushes. I've also got a fluid extractor and plenty of room in the garage, is this something I could DIY relatively easily? I want to upgrade to the Mobil fluid at some point and stick with OEM filters and just do my full changes every 50 hours to err on the side of caution. What do you all recommend for engine oil? Mobil? Rotella synthetic?
Thats a good point on the toothbar, I could probably have one cut and welded for less than $4-500 EA or Pirana want. I'm sure Alro will have similar high-wear resistance steel to use as well.
It is truly "comical" ....... when one does not comprehend the difference between digging and moving dirt!
A tractor loader is certainly suitable for moving dirt, or stone.
A tracked loader/CTL/dozer/BH is intended for digging dirt.
The OP specifically states that he intends "to do some digging", with a small tractor loader.
A very poor idea,..... and certainly not "comical" at all!
Sorry, let me rephrase, I'm using the term 'digging' loosely and can probably chalk that up to inexperience. Elliot pretty much captured what I'm trying to do - basically loosen up areas that need levelling/cutting with a box blade, make piles at the end of my runs, and using the FEL to 'scoop/scrape' the loosened material and dump/grade other areas of the property (or dump it in the woods). I
do not intend on using the FEL like a backhoe and 'engage/curl' the bucket while lifting the front wheels off the ground to move dirt directly out of an undisturbed area like scooping ice cream - I have access to a buddy's Ford 12XX series CUT with BH for heavy digging/trenching work if I ever need and I've used a larger bobcat in the past to do what I'm describing much quicker, however, it costs $5-600/day to rent one of those units and I have to haul it to my house and haul it back and account for weather (and destroy my lawn in the process).
Well, the OP does not really specify what he means by digging, but he does say he only has 1 acre of land.
Digging could just involve leveling some spots that are within a foot or so of level - no problem for a compact tractor with FEL and box blade (even bigger differences depending on soil conditions would be fine). Unless, the OP has some big work to do (such as removing a large multi-foot high hump) bigger equipment should not be needed.
With my LX 2610, I have leveled two sites (30x30 and 30x16 foot) that had about a foot of difference in red clay soil with frequent softball sized rocks. Leveled each site to within an inch (rotary laser level), and then I spread gravel over each before the sheds were installed.
You got it Elliot! That's exactly what I'm looking to do - levelling areas and scooping the unnecessary material and placing in other areas of my yard to spread rock/slag sand and lay pavers and back fill/grade the surrounding areas after paver barrier gets placed.
That's a comical statement, and wrong on many levels. Anything with a bucket was made to move dirt or stone. Efficiency is a different topic.
To the OP enjoy your new tractor I'm sure it will do everything you need it to and more. Tooth bars are great as well.
Thank you sir! I am excited to finally work smart and not hard. Being in my mid 30's and shovelling/wheelbarrow'ing material my entire life has gotten real old real fast.
Had my LX2610 for a little over a year now. 1 acre, lots of trees. I went with the 2610 expressly because of the lack of a DEF system. Could I have used a 3310? Sure. I could also use an excavator, but my 2610 fills ALL the bills that I have. Enjoy your new purchase.
Hallelujah! I'm glad I'm not the only one going with a bigger machine for wooded acre. I was really eye'ing SCUTs for practicality, but bigger is better and I'd rather buy once and cry once haha. I agree with you on the DEF - while the new systems seem to be pretty refined, I don't want to have to work around regens/DEF stuff and have to deal with an ECU on a machine I plan on keeping for many years.
. I lucked out too, the supposedly backordered Kubota OEM third function kit arrived weeks earlier than anticipated and the dealer was able to install that as well. I did notice my 54" bucket didn't have a cutting edge bolted on it, more reason to go with the pirana I guess. I also did go with the KTAC as well, cost an extra few grand but worth it if anything happens.
