Hell yeah, thanks Shekkie! Any tips on draining? I think I can probably get away with funnel and hose without making a mess. Plan is to dump everything that comes out right back into the radiator.
New Member New CUT
- Thread starter radas
- Start date
No tips really. I have a giant drain pan I put underneath after I made sure it was washed out. My tractor was unused by me at that point so still clean. I dumped it from the drain pan into a jug through a paint filter then back into the radiator.
The nice thing about the petcock location is that you only drain as much as you have to to swap in the heater since the drain is only maybe an inch lower. I opened it, took the radiator cap off, went inside for dinner, came back out and it was no longer dripping. Easy peasy.
She showed up today, got to drive her around for a bit and let my son get some seat time long enough to snap a few photos. I love this tractor! Going to break it in this weekend by moving a whopping 1 yard load of 6A limestone for our standby generator base 
I ordered a cutting edge from a local Kubota dealer for the 54" bucket for general duty for $120 to arrive by this weekend and plan on ordering a pirana or EA toothbar for future projects (4-5 week lead time). More mods and implements to come soon.
I ordered a cutting edge from a local Kubota dealer for the 54" bucket for general duty for $120 to arrive by this weekend and plan on ordering a pirana or EA toothbar for future projects (4-5 week lead time). More mods and implements to come soon.
Congrats on the new tractor! When you do the block heater you will need a 17mm hex bit socket the factory plug is tight probably on the order of 100 ftlbs. The block heater takes a 1 3/8" socket to install and even with thread sealer it needs to be very tight. I had to get mine to at least 80 ftlbs to stop it from dripping.
If you use Amazon the hex bit is oemtools 22843 $5.98 the socket is DeWalt demt19289b $4.00
Are the numbers for the tools
Some of the things I have added to my LX are in these posts....
www.orangetractortalks.com
www.orangetractortalks.com
If your doing much clearing in the woods there is not anything that works as good as a grapple. I have the EA Wicked 55 for mine but I had to wait 5 mounts for it to come....
If you use Amazon the hex bit is oemtools 22843 $5.98 the socket is DeWalt demt19289b $4.00
Are the numbers for the tools
Some of the things I have added to my LX are in these posts....
LX2610 Hydraulic side link fabrication total cost $271.00
Hydraulic side link fabrication. This was more involved as I could not find a cylinder that was more or less a bolt on option at an affordable price. I ended up modifying a cylinder. As well as buying a spare side link to cut the mounts off of. Total cost for this project was $271.60 plus my...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Affordable hydraulic top link option for LX series without waiting 6 months.
I just got a hydraulic top link from Spare parts Holland https://sparepartsholland.com/product/hydraulic-top-link-cat-1-1-with-locking-block-460-670-mm-with-2-x-hose/ It's also available on Amazon and on E-bay took about 4 days to arrive. For just a few buck more and without any risk of the fees...
www.orangetractortalks.com
If your doing much clearing in the woods there is not anything that works as good as a grapple. I have the EA Wicked 55 for mine but I had to wait 5 mounts for it to come....
You are the man! Thanks for the socket size and hex sock sizes - would I benefit from having a long reach 17mm hex socket or were you good with the clearance of the normal length 17mm? I've added both of these to my Amazon cart along with a Proto 1/2 drive torque wrench.Congrats on the new tractor! When you do the block heater you will need a 17mm hex bit socket the factory plug is tight probably on the order of 100 ftlbs. The block heater takes a 1 3/8" socket to install and even with thread sealer it needs to be very tight. I had to get mine to at least 80 ftlbs to stop it from dripping.
If you use Amazon the hex bit is oemtools 22843 $5.98 the socket is DeWalt demt19289b $4.00
Are the numbers for the tools
Some of the things I have added to my LX are in these posts....
LX2610 Hydraulic side link fabrication total cost $271.00
Hydraulic side link fabrication. This was more involved as I could not find a cylinder that was more or less a bolt on option at an affordable price. I ended up modifying a cylinder. As well as buying a spare side link to cut the mounts off of. Total cost for this project was $271.60 plus my...
Affordable hydraulic top link option for LX series without waiting 6 months.
I just got a hydraulic top link from Spare parts Holland https://sparepartsholland.com/product/hydraulic-top-link-cat-1-1-with-locking-block-460-670-mm-with-2-x-hose/ It's also available on Amazon and on E-bay took about 4 days to arrive. For just a few buck more and without any risk of the fees...
If your doing much clearing in the woods there is not anything that works as good as a grapple. I have the EA Wicked 55 for mine but I had to wait 5 mounts for it to come.... View attachment 77845
I already pulled the trigger on a Diesel Jerry can (need one more later) and the block heater ($10-20 cheaper than Messicks on Amazon).
What are you guys using for fuel treatment?
I used a 12" or so extension with the breaker bar to get out where I had more room. When you install the block heater I removed the drain petcock so the socket had room. Also I flushed out all of the factory green coolant with distilled water and used a nitrate free extended life antifreeze. This is the one I used NAPA carries it. https://www.valvoline.com/en/zerex-nitrite-free-extended-life-antifreeze/
When you go to unscrew the plug for where the heater goes you might need a pipe on the flex handle I think the factory used a impact to screw it in!
I have an acre. Previously had a BX1880 and wound up upgrading to a B2601. The BX could do most everything I wanted, but found it overwhelmed in a few instances. After seeing the LX up close it was just too big for my needs and property. We are looking to buy a couple acres from neighbors that will need some work, but the B2601 will still be more than enough.
Think you did pretty well pricewise and will be happy with all you can do with it. I was around $24k OTD for my B2601 with a similar setup.
I had a piranha bar on my BX and went with the Wicked toothbar for the B2601. Either is a good option.
If you plan on doing dirt work, get yourself a hydraulic top link to go with those rear remotes.
Think you did pretty well pricewise and will be happy with all you can do with it. I was around $24k OTD for my B2601 with a similar setup.
I had a piranha bar on my BX and went with the Wicked toothbar for the B2601. Either is a good option.
If you plan on doing dirt work, get yourself a hydraulic top link to go with those rear remotes.
Much appreciated! I may also do that flush as well. I've run nitrite free in a few vehicles in the past. I wonder if the paint has anything to do with how difficult these are to remove... Lol
I appreciate the feedback. I also thought the B/BX would do everything I needed it to but decided to upsize to the LX just to have some piece of mind and I tend to go overkill with tools/equipment to scale with changes in our lifestyle (& the pricing was favorable lol).
I think I'm going to go with the EA toothbar based on your feedback and that I plan on grabbing a 54 or 60 Box Blade and pallet forks from them.
I did pick up a straight Kubota cutting edge (showed up in one day) to use for some short-term projects (material handling) before moving towards the toothbar for dirt work.
I have Daferris's Holland top link in my cart ready to go - just gotta recover a bit before I pull the trigger haha.