Need specifics for BX23 TLB o ring for outlet quick connect

[Tractor Gal]

I've checked the parts manual that I have and have checked on Messick's site to find the specifics for o rings for this tractor. There is a slight leak at the outlet connection to the backhoe and I think it just needs a new o ring. These things are generally pretty cheap so I see no point to pay $15+ for shipping even if I could find them! Or, maybe there is a source where shipping wouldn't be a factor.

My problem is that I don't know what to look for! It seems it is either a 113, 70 or it could be 117. Are these measured as ID or OD? No clue.

If someone could direct me, I'm going to Harbor Freight tomorrow and they just may have something. Or, if there is an online source, that would work, too.

Again, I am thankful for the help.

Tractor Gal

 

[Rcflyer330]

Measuring o-rings are a pain but you can do it. You will need a caliper to get your dimensions. You need to measure the O.D. and the I.D. then google an o-ring size chart and find the closest match to your measurement and that should be the one you need. Another option is go to your local hydraulic or automotive parts store and visually match a new o-ring to the old. With auto parts stores call before you go to make sure carry o-rings.

 

[NCL4701]

Leaking Rear Remote Quick Coupler L6060

Anybody got a cure for a leaking rear remote coupler? I have 3 rear remote pairs on my L6060. They are all female quick connects hard mounted to the tractor. ONE of the 6 is leaking like crazy. Can I replace an O ring in it? I sure wish I could just replace the suspect coupler...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Check out the video in the above thread. I believe it was 11:30 where they give the specs for number, material, and hardness.

 

[beckmurph]

Leaking Rear Remote Quick Coupler L6060

Anybody got a cure for a leaking rear remote coupler? I have 3 rear remote pairs on my L6060. They are all female quick connects hard mounted to the tractor. ONE of the 6 is leaking like crazy. Can I replace an O ring in it? I sure wish I could just replace the suspect coupler...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Check out the video in the above thread. I believe it was 11:30 where they give the specs for number, material, and hardness.

Take your o-ring to a hydraulic shop.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I've checked the parts manual that I have and have checked on Messick's site to find the specifics for o rings for this tractor. There is a slight leak at the outlet connection to the backhoe and I think it just needs a new o ring. These things are generally pretty cheap so I see no point to pay $15+ for shipping even if I could find them! Or, maybe there is a source where shipping wouldn't be a factor.

My problem is that I don't know what to look for! It seems it is either a 113, 70 or it could be 117. Are these measured as ID or OD? No clue.

If someone could direct me, I'm going to Harbor Freight tomorrow and they just may have something. Or, if there is an online source, that would work, too.

Again, I am thankful for the help.

Tractor Gal

Classified by ID and cross section. Cross section is easy to measure - ID not so much.

Dan

 

[Tractor Gal]

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions. I did watch the video prior to posting and found it very helpful but not specific enough for me to know for sure. I don't want to take out the damaged one because at least the tractor is usable. Taking it out would cause greater leak, I would think. Leaks drive me crazy...and I don't have far to go.

Whenever I want to do something, there is always another tool to buy! Now I need a caliper. Is this whole thing of owning a tractor a racket for the parts manufacturers?!

Thanks again. I'll figure it out.

TG

 

[NCL4701]

Whenever I want to do something, there is always another tool to buy! Now I need a caliper.

Been true for the 35 years I’ve been wrenching with my own tools, so you might as well give up and get used to it unless you take it to the dealer for every little thing.

And every responsible adult needs a decent caliper IMO.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Whenever I want to do something, there is always another tool to buy! Now I need a caliper.

Been true for the 35 years I’ve been wrenching with my own tools, so you might as well give up and get used to it unless you take it to the dealer for every little thing.

And every responsible adult needs a decent caliper IMO.

You're right, NCL4701...but I've never been accused of being a responsible adult.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions. I did watch the video prior to posting and found it very helpful but not specific enough for me to know for sure. I don't want to take out the damaged one because at least the tractor is usable. Taking it out would cause greater leak, I would think. Leaks drive me crazy...and I don't have far to go.

Whenever I want to do something, there is always another tool to buy! Now I need a caliper. Is this whole thing of owning a tractor a racket for the parts manufacturers?!

Thanks again. I'll figure it out.

TG

By all means get a caliper i- its an invaluable tool and not expensive but dont buy it jusy to measure that o-ring.

SAE O-rings have nominal size like .125x .5 x .75 but the actual measurements will be different. IIRC the cross section of a 1/8 oring os actually .109. Similarly the ID and OD measurements are slightly different than the nominal size. Add to that the possibilty of metric rings. Their nominal size does match thier measured size and they overlap with SAE rings making it difficult to reliably identify exactly what your ring is. Unless you have the ring size in hand from a reliable source best to just pay the dealer for the right one. If you are lucky the package may have the size printed on it and you will know for the next time you need one or somebody asks.

Dan

 

[Tractor Gal]

By all means get a caliper i- its an invaluable tool and not expensive but dont buy it jusy to measure that o-ring.

SAE O-rings have nominal size like .125x .5 x .75 but the actual measurements will be different. IIRC the cross section of a 1/8 oring os actually .109. Similarly the ID and OD measurements are slightly different than the nominal size. Add to that the possibilty of metric rings. Their nominal size does match thier measured size and they overlap with SAE rings making it difficult to reliably identify exactly what your ring is. Unless you have the ring size in hand from a reliable source best to just pay the dealer for the right one. If you are lucky the package may have the size printed on it and you will know for the next time you need one or somebody asks.

Dan

Yes, I have now entered that elite grouping of responsible adults as I purchased a digital caliper today. Amazing little tool, I must say.

And, a second yes about getting the right one from the dealer. However, I called an online Kubota parts dealer to inquire about the o-ring for this particular hose since the o-ring is not shown in the parts diagram. The tech couldn't find it either and then said that the new hoses do not have an o-ring. As a responsible adult, I did not challenge him on this info but I don't believe it. Those fittings would always leak without an o ring...but what do I know?!

Tomorrow, I'll call my local dealer and hopefully there will be some answers. Meanwhile, I'll spend the evening measuring things with the new caliper!

TG

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, I have now entered that elite grouping of responsible adults as I purchased a digital caliper today. Amazing little tool, I must say.

And, a second yes about getting the right one from the dealer. However, I called an online Kubota parts dealer to inquire about the o-ring for this particular hose since the o-ring is not shown in the parts diagram. The tech couldn't find it either and then said that the new hoses do not have an o-ring. As a responsible adult, I did not challenge him on this info but I don't believe it. Those fittings would always leak without an o ring...but what do I know?!

Tomorrow, I'll call my local dealer and hopefully there will be some answers. Meanwhile, I'll spend the evening measuring things with the new caliper!

TG

Welcome to the family

Now I am confused which is not an unusual condition. Hydraulic hoses to not typically have an o-ring but the port fittings used with them sometimes do. Exactly where is this leak and what is the model number of the machine. A picture - not to close up please - of the offending connection might clear up my confusion.

Dan

 

[NCL4701]

Was thinking the same as TheOldHokie. There may be a miscommunication here and with the dealer on which side of the quick connect the leak is on. I’m assuming your machine uses Pioneer style fittings. If not, please ignore the rest of this post. Flat face couplings may be the same; I have no direct experience with those.

If it’s on the threaded side, there’s no o-ring. The tapered pipe threads and appropriate torque creates the seal.

If it’s on the detachable side there’s an o-ring at the bottom of the orifice on the female side that seals against the face of the male side when it is fully inserted and the ridge on the male fitting is locked in properly by the ring of balls in the female fitting. Without the o-ring on the detachable side of the fitting, a Pioneer fitting would leak.

If it’s leaking on the threaded side first step is tighten it. If that doesn’t work, replace the fitting.

If it’s leaking on the detachable side, clean both male and female thoroughly. If that doesn’t work, replace the o-ring. If that doesn’t work, replace the fitting.

If your dealer is telling you “these new hoses don’t have o-rings” they’re most likely thinking the threaded side of the fitting rather than the detachable side.

If this doesn’t make sense, photo of the offending fitting on your machine and where specifically it’s leaking would be helpful. Would likely be helpful to the dealer as well if they’re confused about where exactly it’s leaking.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Welcome to the family

Now I am confused which is not an unusual condition. Hydraulic hoses to not typically have an o-ring but the port fittings used with them sometimes do. Exactly where is this leak and what is the model number of the machine. A picture - not to close up please - of the offending connection might clear up my confusion.

Dan

It's probably my terminology, TheOld Hokie. It's the female side of the quick connect on the hydraulic hose that is the outlet to the backhoe. The tractor is a 2004 BX23 TLB. The hose, for reference, is part #K2591-37530. And, I know there is an 0-ring there because I removed it this evening! Had to use the new caliper, you know.

There has been a slow leak there since the tractor was fortunate enough to become a part of the family here. I kept thinking that I wasn't getting it "clicked in" well enough since it's in an awkward spot under the backhoe platform. There have been other things more pressing to correct on this little tractor but now I'm honing in on this. After watching the video that NCL4701 posted, the light came on and I figured that this must be the problem.

After removing the 0 ring, I didn't really see any damage to it, so maybe that's not the problem. Since it's 17 years old, maybe that o-ring has lost its umph. Anyway, I'll check with the dealer tomorrow. Thanks for inquiring.

TG

 

[Tractor Gal]

Was thinking the same as TheOldHokie. There may be a miscommunication here and with the dealer on which side of the quick connect the leak is on. I’m assuming your machine uses Pioneer style fittings. If not, please ignore the rest of this post. Flat face couplings may be the same; I have no direct experience with those.

If it’s on the threaded side, there’s no o-ring. The tapered pipe threads and appropriate torque creates the seal.

If it’s on the detachable side there’s an o-ring at the bottom of the orifice on the female side that seals against the face of the male side when it is fully inserted and the ridge on the male fitting is locked in properly by the ring of balls in the female fitting. Without the o-ring on the detachable side of the fitting, a Pioneer fitting would leak.

If it’s leaking on the threaded side first step is tighten it. If that doesn’t work, replace the fitting.

If it’s leaking on the detachable side, clean both male and female thoroughly. If that doesn’t work, replace the o-ring. If that doesn’t work, replace the fitting.

If your dealer is telling you “these new hoses don’t have o-rings” they’re most likely thinking the threaded side of the fitting rather than the detachable side.

If this doesn’t make sense, photo of the offending fitting on your machine and where specifically it’s leaking would be helpful. Would likely be helpful to the dealer as well if they’re confused about where exactly it’s leaking.

Yes, NCL4701...it is not on the threaded side but the female side of the quick connect as I mentioned to The Old Hokie. I took a picture but it doesn't really show anything, plus, we've honed in on the female side of the quick connect. I did use some spray brake cleaner on both connecting ends but there wasn't any change.

One thing, though...if it's not the o-ring, you say to replace the fitting. In this case, it would probably be just about the same price to replace the hose as it is only about $20. In addition, getting enough torque to attach the fitting might be a little rough. But, one thing at a time. Thanks for the info.

TG

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, NCL4701...it is not on the threaded side but the female side of the quick connect as I mentioned to The Old Hokie. I took a picture but it doesn't really show anything, plus, we've honed in on the female side of the quick connect. I did use some spray brake cleaner on both connecting ends but there wasn't any change.

One thing, though...if it's not the o-ring, you say to replace the fitting. In this case, it would probably be just about the same price to replace the hose as it is only about $20. In addition, getting enough torque to attach the fitting might be a little rough. But, one thing at a time. Thanks for the info.

TG

The female body has an oring in the cavity. The male tip does not have an oring. If you took an oring off the male tip it is likely the one that should have stayed in the cavity.

Dan

 

[Tractor Gal]

The female body has an oring in the cavity. The male tip does not have an oring. If you took an oring off the male tip it is likely the one that should have stayed in the cavity.

Dan

Yes, it is the female side.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes, it is the female side.

OK - its the coupler not the hose. Id just replace the $10 coupler.

 

[Tractor Gal]

OK - its the coupler not the hose. Id just replace the $10 coupler.

OK, TheOldHokie, that sounds reasonable. From what I've seen, it takes quite a bit of torque to properly get that coupler on the hose. ...Or, maybe I should look and see if the coupler is just threaded on? The threaded section that holds the coupler may be the part that takes a lot of torque? I'll give it a look.

TG

 

[tthorkil]

You might get lucky like I did when the female couplers for my loader on the M9540 were leaking - I just removed the O-rings, cleaned the O-rings and used a swab(long Q-tip) to clean the inside of the coupler where the O-rings seat - lubed the O-rings with SUDt2 - reinstalled the O-rings - put everything back together and no more leaks. I am guessing that at some point something was introduced in the coupler when it was disconnected/reconnected and caused the minor leaks.

 

[Tractor Gal]

You might get lucky like I did when the female couplers for my loader on the M9540 were leaking - I just removed the O-rings, cleaned the O-rings and used a swab(long Q-tip) to clean the inside of the coupler where the O-rings seat - lubed the O-rings with SUDt2 - reinstalled the O-rings - put everything back together and no more leaks. I am guessing that at some point something was introduced in the coupler when it was disconnected/reconnected and caused the minor leaks.

OK, thorkil, that's certainly worth a try. Thanks for the suggestion.

TG