Need Advice (Desperately)

[Snakebit12]

@Snakebit12, thanks for this thread. You might very well prevent others such as myself from facing a similar situation.

I am glad to have helped .

I do not want to give the impression that it was parked either uphill or downhill. It was parked on the side of a slope (traverse if you will). Once it started rolling, it literally made a 90 degree right turn (the path of least resistance) and headed for the woods. I usually bury the forks into the ground and back off a bit. Must have backed off a tad too much.

It was a sickening feeling watching it roll away. I've watched runaway hay bales at the same location but we're talking about a $75 bale of hay, not a $35k tractor.

I believe that I have reached the "acceptance" stage.

The insurance companies have been top-notch so far. Although nobody has directly said it, I get the feeling that they will total it. The appraiser comes tomorrow after the monsoon predicted for Virginia today.

I've started looking around for used equipment...need a similar size to run an 8' pull-type Land Pride mower.

 

[GBJeffOH]

I have a 2012 M7040 that ran away from me (unattended) down a hill before crashing into the woods. It stopped when it reached a tree that would not give way.

I had parked perpendicular to the slope of the hill with the parking brake on (it is still on ). Must require some adjustment.

It is not a pretty site (pics attached). The font axle is toast as are both front wheels...they literally are both horizontal The loader and tractor frames (may)/(may not) be bent. Hard to tell in the woods.

It is insured which is good given the cost that will be required to fix this. But that isn't my big concern.

My big concern is how the hell to get it out of the woods without causing even more damage. It effectively created the sole access point - it can only come out the way that it went in. I have a neighbor with a 166hp IH that can probably pull it out by connecting to the back end but I don't know how to deal with the front end given that there is no longer a front axle.

The question becomes...what drags on the front end when it is pulled probably 150-200' uphill before reaching flat ground? The frame? What's left of the front axle? The loader? I am afraid that just hooking on some chains and pulling it out will cause even more damage.

It starts and I have full hydraulics.

Any suggestions?

Signed,

Depressed in VA

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It looks like the front axle is ok. Just broke loose from the tractor. This may be fixable.

 

[Snakebit12]

It looks like the front axle is ok. Just broke loose from the tractor. This may be fixable.

Yes, the front axle broke loose on impact with the trees. Had it moved down to level ground using the loader as a substitute axle so it can be loaded and transported for possible repair. All in all, it survived the journey down the hill much better than I feared.

Starts right up...no warning lights. Hydraulics show no sign of leaking aside from the curl function on the joystick where the hose broke off.

The axle obviously came down the hill on a separate trip.

I really do hope that it is fixable. At a bare minimum, two new front rims and tires plus whatever is necessary with the front axle. I had assumed that it was totaled but now, I am not so sure.

 

[hagrid]

Can you safely get snaps of the area where the front axle mounts to the tractor?

 

[GBJeffOH]

Yes, the front axle broke loose on impact with the trees. Had it moved down to level ground using the loader as a substitute axle so it can be loaded and transported for possible repair. All in all, it survived the journey down the hill much better than I feared.

Starts right up...no warning lights. Hydraulics show no sign of leaking aside from the curl function on the joystick where the hose broke off.

The axle obviously came down the hill on a separate trip.

I really do hope that it is fixable. At a bare minimum, two new front rims and tires plus whatever is necessary with the front axle. I had assumed that it was totaled but now, I am not so sure.

I hope it is good news.

 

[Snakebit12]

Can you safely get snaps of the area where the front axle mounts to the tractor?

Pics Attached.

What I "think" happened is that the right front tire hit a tree and basically stopped. The left front tire kept going and effectively forced a severe right turn which was beyond the turning radius of the tractor.

Something had to give.

There are, per the diagram, two axle cylindrical housings that are part of the Front Differential Case. They fit inside assembly brackets, both front and rear (IMG150). The rear bracket (IMG 151) looks OK. The front bracket (IMG152) still has part of the housing attached. The housing that fit into the front assembly bracket simply snapped off.

I removed the broken housing and placed in where it was on the Front Differential Case before last Saturday (IMG155).

So, at a minimum...A new Front Differential Case and two new front tire rims plus labor. I'll be the luckiest man on earth if that is the extent of the damage.

 

[McMXi]

@Snakebit12, @PoTreeBoy & @JasonW, I'm in your debt. I just got the QH on the back of the M6060, removed the PHD and put on the land leveler in preparation for running up and down the lower driveway a few times this afternoon. I stopped on a very steep hill and decided to test out the holding ability (or lack thereof) of the transmission and hydraulic clutch. They don't do a darn thing in terms of keeping the tractor where it is which is very sobering to be honest. In my head I assumed that the hydraulics were used to disengage the clutch but clearly hadn't put enough thought or effort into understanding the drivetrain.

@Snakebit12, I feel your pain and thanks again for this thread and for the education and reminder. I usually lower the loader all the way and lower the rear implement if present, and put the parking brake on, but I'm going to be more diligent in the future.

 

[Butch]

Holy defecation Batman!

 

[Snakebit12]

OTOH, despite how it looks, if it's a "total loss," buying it back would offer quite a few options, not the least of which is repairing it or parting it out. Since you're not familiar with machines, that may not appeal to you but there may be someone to assist you or "take it off your hands" for a price...if that's allowed by the insurance company.

The owner of the repair shop that towed the tractor approached me about a "buyback". Not terribly familiar with the concept but, as I understand it, the insurance company would write me a check for the difference between the market value (pre-incident) and the salvage value. He suggested that "we" could fix it ourselves.

He has seen the tractor up close and thinks that it is repairable. The insurance company may total it for fear of "hidden damage".

I will cross that bridge should I get there.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The owner of the repair shop that towed the tractor approached me about a "buyback". Not terribly familiar with the concept but, as I understand it, the insurance company would write me a check for the difference between the market value (pre-incident) and the salvage value. He suggested that "we" could fix it ourselves.

He has seen the tractor up close and thinks that it is repairable. The insurance company may total it for fear of "hidden damage".

I will cross that bridge should I get there.

I would run not walk from that idea.

 

[hagrid]

Indeed. The juice isn't worth the squeeze.

 

[Tractor Gal]

Interesting replies from those who know...to run from the buyback idea. In knowing a little of their knowledge and skill, trusting them may be the best thing in this case. Hope you find a good solution, whatever it is.

TG

 

[McMXi]

@Tractor Gal, I like your way of thinking. Once the insurance company has paid @Snakebit12 however much they think the M7040 is worth, they're going to send out the remains to be auctioned off or possibly scrapped, at least I assume they would. If @Snakebit12 has a history with the tractor or wants a project, or wants spare parts for a replacement tractor he could ask the insurance company if he could buy it from them.

With today's crazy prices he might even get a significant chunk of money to put towards a replacement tractor.

 

[Snakebit12]

I have zero experience with this "buyback" concept. When it was 1st mentioned on this thread, I had to Google it just to understand the basics.

I am hoping that it will be a moot point...that the tractor can be repaired.

M7040s were made from 2007-2013. Mine is a 2012 with 1,100 hours.

M7040 ads for a unit in the 1,100 hrs average around 35k...which not so coincidentally is the insured value. The front differential case and new front wheel rims run around $3k. It needs two hydraulic lines and assorted other minor parts. Call it $4k in parrts.

Labor to remove everything from the old case to the new case, install the new case and mount the old tires on the new rims...I don't know. Let's say just for giggles $7k.

That's $11k versus a theoretical total payment of $35k. Even if the loader is sprung (I have no idea if this is the case), that adds another $7k, bringing the total to $18k.

As $18k < $35k, it seems illogical for the insurance company to total the unit unless they are worried about further "hidden" damage. One adjuster told me that they nearly always total any vehicle when the repair cost exceeds 75% of the prior FMV. I don't see that so far.

Am hoping to hear more by Friday.

I do appreciate the comments.

 

[hagrid]

Your tractor is comprised of cast steel components that have undergone shock loads that exceeded their ability to absorb.

We've seen the "ground zero" parts and we all agree they failed. What we can't evaluate are the related components. If you rebuild that tractor you may suffer a failure of the engine block. Then you will be under water.

Take your payout and select a new machine.

 

[McMXi]

Take your payout and select a new machine.

Looking at the photos of the M7040 again, it was in really great shape before the accident so it was well cared for. Such a pity, but hopefully all of the bad feelings fade away with time and a new or used tractor goes to a good home. All the best to you @Snakebit12, and like others I'm looking forward to seeing how this all turns out for you.

 

[Spam Bot]

The insurance company will make an offer, and the adjuster will determine the salvage value. Often, if the tractor cannot be moved easily and the insurance company contracts with a salvage disposal yard to take it, they may determine that they can save a significant amount of money by selling the tractor back to you rather than disposing of it. Most of the time, salvage is a percentage of the payment figure. If they pay you $35,000 for the tractor, the salvage value might be 15% ($5,250) or 20% ($7,000) of the purchase price. Rarely does it go past 25% ($8,750). Most likely, you will be dealing with the insurance adjuster for both the payoff and the salvage. If that is the case, you can haggle with the adjuster on the salvage value. Don't get into the cost of repair with the adjuster. Many times, he/she will have no idea, because even though he is a physical damage appraiser, he also doesn't have that much experience with tractors.
If you buy it back and, after obtaining all your repair cost figures, decide to keep it or find a tractor salvage yard to purchase it from. You can also start looking for tractor salvage yards for used parts. Don't let the naysayers intimidate you. You have to feel comfortable with your decisions in life, and this is just another one of those decisions.