Couple of things with your design. Try to get the wheel struts closer to the bottom for strength. Lots of leverage there. I like your telescoping design! Nice touch. Minimum quarter inch wall but thicker is better. How far out will it extend? I would reinforce the end of the main tube to prevent it from swaging. Like you see on pickup truck receivers.
My next project probably is a Log Arch
- Thread starter crmorse
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Yea like Yoopers saying, I would shorten up the sides to two foot, and pull the struts all the way to the bottom.
With the way it is in your drawling any resistance on the tire and it's going to bend the legs right over.
With the way it is in your drawling any resistance on the tire and it's going to bend the legs right over.
If you shorten you legs too much the geometry of the struts screws with your largest diameter log you can load. I went thru that when I built mine. It also affects your overall ground clearance so don't go to short with your legs. If the distance between you legs is greater than the length of your legs you are giving up on you overall diameter.
Thanks for that feedback, I ended up shortening the bottom piece from 2'2" to 18". The tires are 25" overall so that gives me about 36" of height which matches the 32" width well, I feel. I want the struts longer/lower too but that's as far as the available material goes. I haven't welded those up yet so I may just go buy something, just not sure what to get. 2" angle seems about right but I'm not sure.
As far as swaging, I solved that by picking up a weld-on 2" receiver tube. It already has the collar and was drilled properly for the hitch pin. It fit nicely right inside my main tube and I welded it in after drilling matching holes. I used the preexisting holes from the hitch mount to add a plug weld from the outer to inner tubes. I think that's going to be solid and won't be a failure point (famous last words).
I don't plan to move them all the way to the bottom due to width clearance but I do have some tubing left that has that 15º bend in it. I was planning to use that so it would kick out a little wider but as stated above, they ended up too short. Jury is still out on this. Ya'll can chime in on the pictures in post below.
I hear ya! I was already thinking I'd build it as light as I figured I could get away with and beef it up if something doesn't feel right in testing. However, I don't even have the struts or wheels on yet and this sucker is already HEAVY. I see now why the LogRite has all that engineering in there's... let's them get away with lighter material.
Not quite sure I follow what you're saying exactly but I get the gist. One thing I did was just weld a grab hook on the back so that I easily adjust the height of my tongs or easily convert it to a cradle style. As of right now I have 32" between the legs (54" outside to match my side-by-side) and ~36" height. I feel like that's going to be a good balance but field testing is required.
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Here’s where I cut iff the original axle spindles and welded them onto the legs. Originally, I planned to weld it centered into the tube but It didn’t quite fit and I saw I had a lot more weld surface if I put it aside. I wasn’t sure how that would work out but while repositioning it for welding it has a nice feel and gives me a little better leverage when hoisting the log.
Here’s the main arch all welded up
My plasma cutter was acting up so I didn’t get to cut out nice triangle gussets for the corners but I think these 1/4” plates will do fine.
Here’s that 2” receiver insert. I’m showing it pre-weld because those were the worst of my welds. I definitely still have a lot to learn.
Here’s the business end of things. I used the 1/4” angle I cut off the running board mounts to reinforce the joint and I seem-welded the tubes before adding these plates. The back plate is also 1/4” and fully welded along all perimeters. Again, some ugly welds in there but I’m pretty sure it’s going to hold ;-)
Lastly, here’s the grab hook and how I plan to use the tongs. I also plan to add a 2nd one above it for choker use. I might add some on the corners as well but I’ll wait to see if I find it necessary to have a crank-up choker feature. I don’t think my logs will require it.
Well, that’s all for tonight. As we always say, I hoped to get further but stuff got in the way.
Next, I try to figure out those pesky struts.
Here’s the main arch all welded up
My plasma cutter was acting up so I didn’t get to cut out nice triangle gussets for the corners but I think these 1/4” plates will do fine.
Here’s that 2” receiver insert. I’m showing it pre-weld because those were the worst of my welds. I definitely still have a lot to learn.
Here’s the business end of things. I used the 1/4” angle I cut off the running board mounts to reinforce the joint and I seem-welded the tubes before adding these plates. The back plate is also 1/4” and fully welded along all perimeters. Again, some ugly welds in there but I’m pretty sure it’s going to hold ;-)
Lastly, here’s the grab hook and how I plan to use the tongs. I also plan to add a 2nd one above it for choker use. I might add some on the corners as well but I’ll wait to see if I find it necessary to have a crank-up choker feature. I don’t think my logs will require it.
Well, that’s all for tonight. As we always say, I hoped to get further but stuff got in the way.
Next, I try to figure out those pesky struts.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Not trying to knock your welding, so please don't think I'm picking on you, just trying to see if I /we can help you out.
Welding is tough, especially when welding dissimilar thicknesses and types of material!
Are you arc, or mig it welding?
Specs like wire size, welding rod number, gas shield or flux core or other, welding helmet and equipment name will help too, and anything else might think of , oh, and indoors or outside, windy or calm.
Just initial observations, again please don't take offense:
Heat is too high on most welds, this could be from a combination of factors.
Your flow on the welds is choppy or broken.
Positive notes: I think it's turning out good so far and should get the job done, and yea I understand the strut situation, as low as you can will help tremendously.
Welding is tough, especially when welding dissimilar thicknesses and types of material!
Are you arc, or mig it welding?
Specs like wire size, welding rod number, gas shield or flux core or other, welding helmet and equipment name will help too, and anything else might think of , oh, and indoors or outside, windy or calm.
Just initial observations, again please don't take offense:
Heat is too high on most welds, this could be from a combination of factors.
Your flow on the welds is choppy or broken.
Positive notes: I think it's turning out good so far and should get the job done, and yea I understand the strut situation, as low as you can will help tremendously.
CMorse, looking good. I used 1 1/4 black pipe for my struts. Your welds look great. I've been using the crap out of my Arch and have hauled about 4 cords of Ash timbers to the edge of my marsh in just the last couple days. This is my second haul in the 10 or so days I've been using my Arch. I've put it thru some hard rides with heavy logs and do a daily insp to check for bends of cracked welds. So far so good. I think you mentioned pulling your Arch with your Capstan. Could you elaborate on that some. It's something I pondered myself but thought that might require a 3rd wheel up front that could be removed.
None taken! That's why I love it here, so much good advice offered for free. Stick welding, 1/8" 7018 rods at 165 amps. I initially tried around 150-155 but I kept getting the stick stuck. I also feel like I'm keeping the arc too short, I'm almost touching the work. But when I open it up I can't control where the weld pool goes and it it ends up all over the place.
I'm welding on a covered back porch so 3/4 inside, 1/4 outside. Light breeze. Decent light until evening. Welder is a Lotos stick/tig/plasma on 220v.
I think I might have my helmet set a little too dark because I have trouble seeing the weld pool itself (but I don't want to let too much arc in and damage my eyes). Honestly, I'm not sure where I should be watching, the arc or the leading edge of the pool? I feel like I do better when watching the pool but then I often lose focus on the arc and either dip the stick or wander.
So far the most frustrating part has been I've not gotten a good feel for when it's going to be a good bead or not. I can't count the times I finished and thought, "yeah, that's a great one" and then after removing the slag (which is inevitably harder when it's a bad one) see junk. The best weld I did I thought was crap and it ended up being a peeler.
Per dissimilar sizes, that's definitely where I'm struggling. When I butt-welded the too pieces of 3/16" that had chamfers I put down some pretty reasonable passes. Now that 1/4" angle to the rounded corner of the 3/16" tube? Yikes!
I do appreciate any and all advice offered. I've watched a ton of youtube videos on welding but some of the most basics (like what part to watch) they seem to skip over.
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If you're using an AC welder ( buzz box ) like a Lincoln AC-225-S, use E7018AC rods . You really need 'AC' rated rods...makes the world of diference ! I use 3/32 /40 amps for rider deck repair, 1/8" @105A for tube welding.
As for the 'struts' from the axle stubs to as far forward is best. 1" black pipe or square tubing should be fine, may need to be bent up front to accomadate big logs though....
looking good so far !
As for the 'struts' from the axle stubs to as far forward is best. 1" black pipe or square tubing should be fine, may need to be bent up front to accomadate big logs though....
looking good so far !
Check out the video on LogRite's page. They just have a pull ring mounted on the end of the tongue and set the tongs location on the log so that when the rope is taut it lifts the log and when it goes slack the log sets back down making an automatic brake, of sorts.
Here are a few tips: 1) grind all the surfaces to be welded to a shiny clean finish. Can not emphasize this enough. 2) 7018 is a rod that is a hard starter. If you stick it and the coating breaks off a significant amount change to a new one. Runs best on DC reverse polarity. Never tried the AC rods but that might be the only option if your welder only has AC. 3) 7018 requires a tight gap. Almost have to drag this rod so what you are doing is correct. 4) Hook the ground cable directly to the part instead of the table. Grind a spot clean for this of course. 5) With 7018 watch the leading edge of the pool. You will not see it as much as 6013 because the slag covers it up quickly. Practice will make you better. 6) I would have my amperage at 130-140. Use two hands when welding. Steadier hand equals better starts and nicer looking beads. Good luck and keep your posts coming!
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Wow, I never took any notice of their fetching arch. Interesting. Modifications to my Arch may be ahead. Lol
Thanks for the welding tips guys. That helped a lot. I was using the welding table as ground. Moving the clamp to the piece solved the sticking problem. 130 turned out to be the magic number. Took me a couple of beads to get used to the slower deposition rate but once I did, I managed to even get a few that aren’t half bad.
I ended up picking up some 1”x2” tube from my local steel supplier. Cutting the odd angle double-miter was fun. I just took my time and worked slowly and ground it down to the final fit.
I ended up going with straight pieces because even a max width log will fit between the struts thanks to the geometry.
So we’re all ready to go now for it’s first trials if it’ll ever stop raining here. Flooding already and another 2-4” forecast for the next 2 days. Assuming it lifts and pulls nice and there’s no adjustments to be made, I’ll start building the trailer tongue next.
I ended up picking up some 1”x2” tube from my local steel supplier. Cutting the odd angle double-miter was fun. I just took my time and worked slowly and ground it down to the final fit.
I ended up going with straight pieces because even a max width log will fit between the struts thanks to the geometry.
So we’re all ready to go now for it’s first trials if it’ll ever stop raining here. Flooding already and another 2-4” forecast for the next 2 days. Assuming it lifts and pulls nice and there’s no adjustments to be made, I’ll start building the trailer tongue next.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Looking good, great welds. I cut with a dewalt chop saw and angle grinder and the angles can be especially challenging. I used black pipe on my struts and cutting round stock is pretty much grind to fit for me. I drug in another Big Assed Ash yesterday with a beautiful drop between several trees. I had two hangers previously which I had to bust my Ash to get down. Felling in the forest is an adventure.
Aye, roger that. I've got a 25" DBH x 50'+ white oak that is dead, bark falling off up on the knee of a slope that I've got to try and get down. Not many other big trees near it which means a) full overlapping crowns and b) since they're the only big ones left I want to try and preserve them.
Now I have to decide if I want to try and drop it uphill where the other trees are thinner but will make retrieving a little harder or downhill into a dense stand of 1-3" saplings.
If this rain will ever clear out I plan to fly the drone around it to try and get a better view of leans and weights. The goods though is if I can get it down, it's just a few yards from one of my biggest roads so pulling it home will be easy-peasy.
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Finished initial build today! Still need to test it but I played with a log in the backyard and it seems to work well.
For the removable tow tongue I took a standard 2” drop hitch and cut off the flat part and then flipped it over and welded it back on at the same angle as the drop (plus a LOT of grinding, of course). I then cut a piece of 2”x4” tube from the donor trailer at at 35d angle to mate up to it.
For the ball hitch I took a piece of the 2”x3” tube and welded a plate on the back and notched into the main tube. Drilled it for the hitch mount and done. Ended up turning the welder down to 120 and got the best weld of this project.
The hitch tongue easily removes and can be replaced with this simple pull ring. Taking all that weight off the front makes it pretty maneuverable.
@mike paulson I didn’t do so well at keeping the weight down. I tested picking it up from the side like if I was setting it over top of a log and that’s a NOPE. Definitely a two-man operation there (either at the start or a Dr afterwards...)
Rain still continues so likely no road test until after the weekend.
For the removable tow tongue I took a standard 2” drop hitch and cut off the flat part and then flipped it over and welded it back on at the same angle as the drop (plus a LOT of grinding, of course). I then cut a piece of 2”x4” tube from the donor trailer at at 35d angle to mate up to it.
For the ball hitch I took a piece of the 2”x3” tube and welded a plate on the back and notched into the main tube. Drilled it for the hitch mount and done. Ended up turning the welder down to 120 and got the best weld of this project.
The hitch tongue easily removes and can be replaced with this simple pull ring. Taking all that weight off the front makes it pretty maneuverable.
@mike paulson I didn’t do so well at keeping the weight down. I tested picking it up from the side like if I was setting it over top of a log and that’s a NOPE. Definitely a two-man operation there (either at the start or a Dr afterwards...)
Rain still continues so likely no road test until after the weekend.
I didn't know Four Winns made Log Archs, LOL! I brought in two more decent size Ash this morning which I dropped yesterday. Gonna take a break for couple days. Stomach muscle strain acting up from humping my Arch over log ,rocks and what not.