My new L2250Dt smoking from engine oil filler & overflow

[Pau7220]

^^^^^

We are talking a minute amount of oil (just enough to provide a seal for worn rings), you aren't going to hydraulic a cylinder that way and certainly not going to fire off the engine with all the glow plugs/injectors removed. Compression testing a diesel engine (just like a gas engine) involves disabling the fuel system. The procedure is in any FSM.

In the OP's case....if a careful retest yields the same results as the first, I'd quit right there and start planning on a rebuild/overhaul. But there are good reasons for wet tests and leak down tests of cylinders.

Where exactly did you read that I said the engine would fire off?

I’ll save the sarcastic reply on disabling the fuel system for a later time.

Minute amount of oil? Couple of squirts with an oil can? Then spin it over with the glow plugs out… now you have oil mist in the cylinder… compression gauge back in and spin engine… oil mist in that cylinder fires off with the first rotation.. gauge goes to 600psi or more. Completely inaccurate reading and nothing learned. Maybe there’s one too many squirts of oil, or it fires way before TDC and bends a rod.
As I said, “there’s no need for it”.… And no risk of further damage.

Not my first rodeo….

Another well respected opinion…

Advice on bad piston rings

Okay guys, Sorry for the long thread but I am trying to be thorough. Here are my engine (S2600-A) tests done. Re: previous thread, post injector ignition knock on M4500DT. Engine starts easy doesn’t run rough, has blow-by, if I remove dipstick some bubbling of oil. Only blows a bit of smoke...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[jhende43]

W

Where did you read that I said the engine would fire off?

Minute amount of oil? Couple of squirts with an oil can? Then spin it over with the glow plugs out… now you have oil mist in the cylinder… compression gauge back in and spin engine… oil mist in that cylinder fires off with the first rotation.. gauge goes to 600psi. Completely inaccurate reading and nothing learned. As I said, “there’s no need for it”.… And no risk of further damage.

Not my first rodeo….

I will not wet test thank you all for the warning I had the oil can squirt bides in mind personally.

for the repeat compression test
1. Bat charger hooked up for testing
2. Leak check after tests with soap spray
Anything else before re test guys?

 

[Pau7220]

Anything else before re test guys?

As NIW said, you can pull the rocker cover off and make sure you have a touch of play in each rocker arm when the valves are closed… just to make sure you don’t have a tight one holding a valve open.

 

[jhende43]

As NIW said, you can pull the rocker cover off and make sure you have a touch of play in each rocker arm when the valves are closed… just to make sure you don’t have a tight one holding a valve open.

Finally pulled the rocker cover off and rocker arms all have slight play as described I turned motor by hand with glow plugs out.

Re compression tested with full battery charge and charger on for test. Compression did go up but still have two cylinders low
275 rear
375 middle
265 front

Soap sprayed each no leaks no bubbles

 

[jhende43]

So after testing I tried to rip into the FEL to detach it went great but got stuck

MANUAL says to disconnect the 3 hoses with quick couplers

Next step is where I’m stuck
After hoses are disconnected then

“reconnect the hose remaining on the front hydraulic block to the out port of the front hydraulic block with quick coupler as shown in the figure.“
PICTURE ATTACHED of figure and instructions

There is no hose remaining it said to disconnect the three quick couplers.. All hoses are now disconnected and hanging freely.

Are my hoses not factory and I SHOULD have another quick couple in middle of a hose to loop the in and out or ?? I hope that makes sense haha

THANKS EVERYONE AS ALWAYS AND HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE ALSO IN THE FUTURE

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can accomplish the same thing as attaching a hose loop by turning the slotted valve in the middle of the block.
Just turn the slotted valve counter clockwise.
You'll know you got it right if the three point works.

 

[jhende43]

You can accomplish the same thing as attaching a hose loop by turning the slotted valve in the middle of the block.
Just turn the slotted valve counter clockwise.
You'll know you got it right if the three point works.

View attachment 95449

Will do Wolfman my wsm mentioned the spool also and said turn To the “o” mark which I couldn’t find no matter how much I de greased and wiped .

Should I start a new forum for the pending rebuild or continue here what’s proper etiquette lol

 

[Flintknapper]

Where exactly did you read that I said the engine would fire off?

I’ll save the sarcastic reply on disabling the fuel system for a later time.

Minute amount of oil? Couple of squirts with an oil can? Then spin it over with the glow plugs out… now you have oil mist in the cylinder… compression gauge back in and spin engine… oil mist in that cylinder fires off with the first rotation.. gauge goes to 600psi or more. Completely inaccurate reading and nothing learned. Maybe there’s one too many squirts of oil, or it fires way before TDC and bends a rod.
As I said, “there’s no need for it”.… And no risk of further damage.

Not my first rodeo….

Another well respected opinion…

Advice on bad piston rings

Okay guys, Sorry for the long thread but I am trying to be thorough. Here are my engine (S2600-A) tests done. Re: previous thread, post injector ignition knock on M4500DT. Engine starts easy doesn’t run rough, has blow-by, if I remove dipstick some bubbling of oil. Only blows a bit of smoke...

www.orangetractortalks.com

The wet test procedure is called out in many FSM's for certain conditions to help determine if the issue is with the piston rings/cylinder or the head (valves) I'm sure you know.

Obviously you don't over-do the amount of oil deposited. Then the engine is spun over 15-20 times BEFORE you install the pressure gauge. That leaves only a fine coating of oil left on the rings and cylinder walls NOT a 'mist'. Mechanics do this all the time with diesel engines.

It can be argued whether or not it is beneficial...but it is not dangerous if you don't screw it up, which some people can do no matter what.

In the OP's case....i think it is clear at the very least....a re-bore is likely needed, or better...re-sleeve it and overhaul everything else.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Will do Wolfman my wsm mentioned the spool also and said turn To the “o” mark which I couldn’t find no matter how much I de greased and wiped .

Should I start a new forum for the pending rebuild or continue here what’s proper etiquette lol

You can do either, which ever you would like.

 

[Flintknapper]

Will do Wolfman my wsm mentioned the spool also and said turn To the “o” mark which I couldn’t find no matter how much I de greased and wiped .

Should I start a new forum for the pending rebuild or continue here what’s proper etiquette lol

Would love to a new/dedicated thread to the rebuild. It would be easy for others to find in the future (using the search function) as it would not be attached and at the end of this one.

Good luck with it.

Flint.

 

[#40Fan]

Didn't we have an engine on here a while back with a blown headgasket that was allowing combustion gases into the crankcase, or was that another forum?

Either way, I'd pull the head first and take a good look at things. If that much compression was leaking past the rings, I'd expect to see a couple torn up cylinder walls.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Didn't we have an engine on here a while back with a blown headgasket that was allowing combustion gases into the crankcase, or was that another forum?

Either way, I'd pull the head first and take a good look at things. If that much compression was leaking past the rings, I'd expect to see a couple torn up cylinder walls.

Kubota's having a "Blown Head gasket" is mighty rare.

I've never seen one that wasn't installer error, EG. Using a spray on head sealer and / or not properly torqueing the head.

If it did have a "blown head gasket" it would almost certainly not run and it wouldn't be a pressure drop between 2 outside cylinders with the middle cylinder having good pressure.

 

[jhende43]

Kubota's having a "Blown Head gasket" is mighty rare.

I've never seen one that wasn't installer error, EG. Using a spray on head sealer and / or not properly torqueing the head.

If it did have a "blown head gasket" it would almost certainly not run and it wouldn't be a pressure drop between 2 outside cylinders with the middle cylinder having good pressure.

Can not argue with an answer that specific, pressure drop with middle cylinder having good pressure is exactly what I have.

I will start a new forum for the rebuild AFTER I tear the head off, inspect pistons and sleeves etc etc, and report back here of course with a few mandatory pictures because if you don’t have pictures it didn’t happen haha.

When Taking the head off anything I should look at, into, or out for ??!!

Thanks ALL as always!

 

[Flintknapper]

When Taking the head off anything I should look at, into, or out for ??!!

Torque sequence for the head bolts when removing the head is a good idea.

I doubt you'll find anything wrong with your Head Gasket...but inspect it carefully. IF there any damage to the fire rings of the gasket check carefully for any flame cutting on the head or block.

Check for any signs of valves that weren't closing completely and if you find any...for burned valves.