My B2620 mods

[bandaidmd]

Finally got the last fittings to complete my hydro project so I could get the tractor out of the garage and backed up to the box blade to try out my widened quick hitch. OOPs needed more than just widening the hitch to make it QH friendly. Those bolt together braces had to visit with mr sparkey and that spacer just below the toplink hole had to go. So 2 cutoff wheels and a handfull of 1/8" 6011 and all is good my box is QH compatible. forgot to snap a before pic but after i spray some paint on it i will take a after pic.

 

[bandaidmd]

Heres my homemade trailer mover, it was a quickie project a while back so its not a spit and polish job but it works. I had to widen and lengthen it a bit this morning but now its quick hitch compatable. I hooked up to my 26' 7500# camper and relocated it on the property and was amazed at how the 2620 didn't even break a sweat.

 

[jtb51b]

Your rear remote setup is great. This is something I have wanted for a while but havent taken the time to move forward until now. I would love a parts list of the items you used (mostly the smalls) to make this a reality. Please email me at jbelcher@renorefractories.com if you dont mind. I will probably have a few questions for you if you dont mind.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[bandaidmd]

Ask away, you can email me if you want. Its my username at yahoo dot com

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[jtb51b]

Thanks, I sent you an email. I really am just wondering what fittings and valve you used ETC. I can get lines made locally but driving back and forth to the parts house swapping fittings can get fuel costly.

Jason

 

[bandaidmd]

I spend a lot of time waiting on the brown truck to show up

 

[bandaidmd]

Diverter valve is nearing completion !
I capped off the curl and dump hard lines up on the boom where they transition from flex to hard.
Fed the original hard lines from the valve with hose (tapped back in with run tees ) to keep the original hard lines as crossovers.
The cover and its brackets are all made up just have to wait for the paint to cure.

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[Burtonbr]

I looked at the pictures you posted, looks good. A little different though, your going to be able to curl and use the 3rd function at the same time and did you use the through ports on the diverter?

 

[bandaidmd]

the lines that come down the boom go into the front and pass right thru and come out the back unless you send power to the valve.
Once you send power to the valve it diverts to the top ports so its either reg operation or 3rd function, you cant have both at once.

 

[Burtonbr]

RIGHT, RIGHT I see it now, I didn't see the lines going to the front. Very cool !!
get'er wired up and tell me how it works, I've been slack and just now got my fittings I needed.

 

[bandaidmd]

Just need to do the wires on the tractor side.

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[Burtonbr]

Oh yea, the cover is a nice touch!

 

[bandaidmd]

Got a little more done and hooked the loader back up. Oops something went wrong the bucket only dumps with lever to right or left. Swapped the red and blue and alls good. Would have thought having them reversed would have just made them backwards?

It would have worked with the lines the way i had them but i wasnt forceing the control handle over past regen. with the lines hooked up normally gravity will drop the bucket without the handle being pushed hard to the right.

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[bandaidmd]

I decided that a more compact form of rear weight would be handy, the box scrape works good but in a tight driveway pushing snow its way to easy to hit something shiney and expensive.
There was a nice plastic barrel and some pieces of steel that were just begging to become a project.
I might not be qualified to work tying rebar but there should be enough steel to grab the concrete.


There all ready to pour the floor on the new house across the street if I'm lucky the concrete truck will have some extra he needs to dispose of.

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[bandaidmd]

The tilt has now been added to the top, now I need one of those big stick on levels.

 

[bandaidmd]

I decided that a more compact form of rear weight would be handy, the box scrape works good but in a tight driveway pushing snow its way to easy to hit something shiney and expensive.
There was a nice plastic barrel and some pieces of steel that were just begging to become a project. View attachment 8264 View attachment 8265
I might not be qualified to work tying rebar but there should be enough steel to grab the concrete.


There all ready to pour the floor on the new house across the street if I'm lucky the concrete truck will have some extra he needs to dispose of.

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Lucked out and got my barrell filled when they poured the floor across the road ( to bad I didn't have a formed up pad ready he offered me 1 1/2 yards).
I thought my B2620 would lift a full barrell but was mistaken, had to shovel it out to just below the toplink.




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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Is that... or I should say was that a Fence from a table saw that you used for the top bar?

 

[bandaidmd]

Don't be looking at my junk lol

I put a real fence ( biesmier)on my saw years ago and while digging in the junk pile I found it.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's too funny, I use Biesmier fences on my saws and router tables too! They help keep things nice and true.
I just spent 3/4 of my day butchering up some hickory for a 36" door, 2 inch thick with a full light.

Sorry... Thread Hi-Jack Over
Please continue with the tractor mods!

How much weight do you think you have in the barrel?
I was thinking of copying what you did but just using sand, I have a ton of it here!

 

[bandaidmd]

There was prob 60 to 75 lbs of steel in there to start with and the concrete Truck driver said it was 1000 lbs for 55 gallon of concrete which seemed like a pretty high estimate.
kubota says my tractor should lift 1058 @ 24" behind lift point and the center mass of that barell is just about 2' behind the lift arms (i guess the upper lift arms are where they measure from?) so i guess its 900 at least .
You can see in the picture where my new level is.