Multimeter question

RMS

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Please forgive my lack of electrical knowledge, but I have this pocket multimeter and am wondering if it is able to check the battery on my lx. For the totally unitiated it does not appear yo have a 12 volt test setting. If it can be used where would I set the pointer to?
 

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Runs With Scissors

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Set the white dot to point to the orange "50" in the orange "V DC section"

Then touch black to the negative terminal, and the red to the positive terminal.

Then read the black set of numbers that ends with 50.

That will tell you how many volts the battery is at, but it will not "load test" the battery.


I think those other "battery settings" are for 'hand held" batteries.
 
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Elliott in GA

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You would select the 50 VDC, and then read the scale for your voltage.

However, your meter's scale may not be precise enough (tough to tell from a photo) to give much useful information. Add to that, the resting voltage of a battery is not the best indicator of the battery's true health. You need to have it load tested (usually free) at an auto parts store or with your own load tester (about $75 at an auto parts store).
 

85Hokie

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Scissors nailed it .

With this you can see if the battery is somewhat "good" but more importantly you can see if the alternator is charging by the slight movement of the needle.

For the cost, you may want to go ahead and buy a LED meter, they are very cheap. Some less than $15.

1706027432786.png
 
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RMS

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set the white dot to the orange 50 V DC.

Then touch black to the negative terminal, and the red to the positive terminal.

Then read the black set of numbers that ends with 50.

That will tell you how many volts the battery is at, but it will not "load test" the battery.
Thanks.





Set the white dot to point to the orange "50" in the orange "V DC section"

Then touch black to the negative terminal, and the red to the positive terminal.

Then read the black set of numbers that ends with 50.

That will tell you how many volts the battery is at, but it will not "load test" the battery.


I think those other "battery settings" are for 'hand held" batteries.
Set the white dot to point to the orange "50" in the orange "V DC section"

Then touch black to the negative terminal, and the red to the positive terminal.

Then read the black set of numbers that ends with 50.

That will tell you how many volts the battery is at, but it will not "load test" the battery.


I think those other "battery settings" are for 'hand held" batteries.
Thanks, I just went out and checked. Looked close to 12 volts. It's strange, i keep the battery on a tender, but it was dead this morning. I jumped it from my truck and it started. I put a regular charger on it after and it appears to be charging.
It did this to me once before during a real cold spell last winter and I took apart and cleaned all of the connections at the battery and frame and it seemed to be good. This last cold spell the battery tender never showed past 80% charged and this morning both the red and green lightz were blinking. I hadn't seen that before.
 

Edke6bnl

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A real good test would be to check the voltage while the tractor is cranking, LOAD Testing, not just static voltage. Should not drop below 9.5 volts. For a good battery. The battery can have 12.6v but not be able to start a vehicle if load test is below the 9.5 volts
 

Runs With Scissors

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I agree with @85Hokie and @Elliott in GA

That is a pretty dated model that can/(should?) be replaced with a vastly superior newer version for just a few bucks.

But I suppose it's better than nothing.


Just an FYI about "multi meters" in general.

You typically set it to an "expected range" just above what you expect to see, not a specific setting.

For instance, if you were testing for voltage in a wall plug outlet, your expected reading would be about 120V so you would set it to something like 250 V AC in your case (or in the case of 85hokie's pic a setting of 200V AC would be the appropriate setting for a typical American wall outlet)


Hahahahah.....I can still hear my High School "electronics" teacher Mr. Matteson, yelling at us for "pegging out" the meters...."You DAMN kids got no respect...just wait till your ass is paying for it".........hahahaha
 

GreensvilleJay

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'battery tender' is the fancy 'new name' for a very low current 'trickle' charger. They are designed to keep a fully charged battery 'full'. they are NOT a medium to high current CHARGER that you typically think of as a 'charger'. Yes, battery tenders will 'shut off' when battery is 'full', something every SCR based charger has done for decades.
 

jaxs

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Your question has been answered but I don't agree with some comments. If a meter is capable of accuracy to the first decimal (which OP;s isn't) it can be a very good indicator of battery health and state of charge. Not 100% conclusive but I give it 90% which I'd love to enjoy with everything I undertake.
 

jaxs

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'battery tender' is the fancy 'new name' for a very low current 'trickle' charger. They are designed to keep a fully charged battery 'full'. they are NOT a medium to high current CHARGER that you typically think of as a 'charger'. Yes, battery tenders will 'shut off' when battery is 'full', something every SCR based charger has done for decades.
I respectfully submit that you are talking about Harbor Freight which should never be mentioned in the same sentence as Deltran. ;)
 

RMS

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Scissors nailed it .

With this you can see if the battery is somewhat "good" but more importantly you can see if the alternator is charging by the slight movement of the needle.

For the cost, you may want to go ahead and buy a LED meter, they are very cheap. Some less than $15.

View attachment 120872
Thanks for the advice, i just ordered one.
 

GreensvilleJay

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no, 'battery tender' is a trademarked name of Deltran.
I don't consider a 3 amp 'charger' to be anything BUT a 'trickle charger', with auto shutoff. While they have dozens of 'chargers' , the term 'battery tender' has been used to describe low current chargers with auto shutoff. Similar to asking for a 'xerox' when you mean you want a photocopy of something.

Now if you want to get into the 'details' , post actual model numbers so I can download their schematics, parts lists and operating algorithms ( the computer code that runs it ).

BTW Depending on the battery type, size, chemistry, etc. you require a MINIMUM charging current to maintain a 'fully charged' status. That info is easily obtained from the battery manufacturer. Also the method of HOW a battery is charged is SPECIFIC to THAT battery type and ratings.
 

DaveFromMi

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Nice old Sears multi-meter. Fairly accurate. You could sell it on Ebay as a vintage tool. I have one that I bought from Radio Shack ~1983.
Meter.jpg
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Nice old Sears multi-meter. Fairly accurate. You could sell it on Ebay as a vintage tool. I have one that I bought from Radio Shack ~1983. View attachment 120876
Thats cool as hell.

Having the box is makes it 10X better.

Brings out the "inner pack rat" in me..............hahahah
 

NCL4701

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Nice old Sears multi-meter. Fairly accurate. You could sell it on Ebay as a vintage tool. I have one that I bought from Radio Shack ~1983. View attachment 120876
That’s pretty cool. My father had one exactly like that, so that’s what I grew up with. Seems like I saw it, with box, when we were cleaning out his stuff last year after he passed. It was a pretty decent piece of equipment for general work.
 
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jaxs

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Nice old Sears multi-meter. Fairly accurate. You could sell it on Ebay as a vintage tool. I have one that I bought from Radio Shack ~1983. View attachment 120876
I have that same meter from "The ShacK". It still works fine so I use it on the bench (too larger and fragile to carry in tool box). Actually it is superior to a digital Fluke for condenser tests. I sure miss Radio Shack because there was always one nearby when parts were needed quick. After they closed , Frys opened stores with even bigger and better inventory but now those have closed so no more running to get parts for quicky job. 😭
 
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bird dogger

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Please forgive my lack of electrical knowledge, but I have this pocket multimeter and am wondering if it is able to check the battery on my lx. For the totally unitiated it does not appear yo have a 12 volt test setting. If it can be used where would I set the pointer to?
Rms, Instead of just telling you which scale to use….here’s some basic helpful info that might save you from blowing too many fuses on your meters during your learning curve. Especially since your OTT handle is RMS, which in the electrical measurement department stands for “Root Mean Square”.

V DC = Volts Direct Current
V AC – Volts Alternating Current
mA DC = milli amps (1/1000 amp) Direct Current (not to useful for general tractor troubleshooting but good for blowing meter fuses!)
BATT = checking common AA, D, C, 9v flashlight batteries, etc.
Ohm x 1K = Ohms resistance x 1000
Ohm ADJ = For adjusting the ohm reading to “Zero” when you short the test leads together.

Example for V DC: The settings of 10, 50, 250, are the maximum full scale reading in volts that can be safely read in each of those selections. If you were expecting to read 120 Volts DC you would select the 250 VDC setting because 120 volts falls within that range. Your tractor battery is in the 12 to 13 volts DC so you would select the 50 VDC setting to check your tractor battery voltage.

If you’re unsure of a voltage that you want to check, select the highest range first. Then when you see which range the voltage would fall into….then select the proper lower range for better resolution of the reading.

Note the meter scales are laid out (top to bottom) OHMS, Volts (250, 50, 10) etc.
Each meter scale corresponds to the respective setting you have chosen on your meter.
If you select the 50 VDC range to read your battery voltage, you will be using the middle scale (Volts) that has the 50 at the full scale range on the right side of the meter face.

If you are measuring ohms. You would be using the top scale. And since the meter shown has the ohm scale x 1K…..that means you would multiply the reading by 1000 to get the actual resistance value.

Selecting too low of a scale on this meter you will likely “Peg” the needle to the far right and may damage the meter movement and may also blow a fuse. That’s why if the value to be measured is unknown, you start with the highest scale and work your way down to the proper scale.

On your new electronic meter, if the value being measured is “out of range” (improper scale selected) you will most likely see an “OL” or other indication on your LED display. Depending on the meter, it might be more forgiving of making mistakes. You may still blow an internal meter fuse, but they’re easily replaced.

As an example of choosing the right scale and seeing the better resolution: select the 250 VDC scale and read your tractor battery voltage. (remember to read it on the 250 FS (Full Scale) range (top scale).

Then select the 50 VDC range and read the voltage on the 50 FS (Full Scale) range. This will give you a much better (more accurate) resolution.

Do Not select the 10 VDC range as that is usually below your battery voltage. You will peg the needle to the far right of the movement and possibly damage the movement if your battery is fully charged.

However, if the previous scales show that your battery is bad or discharged to a lower level than 10 Volts….then you can safely use this scale to more accurately read any voltage below 10 volts.

As a new user of a multi meter, you should not try to measure resistance with your meter when the battery voltage is present in the circuit. Especially with this analog meter (needle movement vs the LED meter). Until you become more familiar with taking circuit readings with your meter, you’d want to measure resistance with the device completely disconnected from the circuitry.

These are just some very basic “how to’s” in helping you get started in understanding those different settings. It would be a shame to damage that nice little vintage analog meter!!

Hope it helps a little!!
David
 
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johnjk

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(y) It's just a warm feeling to watch the analog swing that is lacking in digitals.:giggle:
I do have quite a few DVM’s ranging from cheap Radio Shack up to a couple Flukes. They see most of the action these days but I do like the old analog meter and my tube AM radio