Multimeter question

[jaxs]

I'm a tool guy and don't mind buying tools that save time and money but I don't feel the need for a load tester. The guy that owned gas station where I worked as a kid on Saturday did lite mechanic work. He blew two batteries up while testing them. He must have expected problems because he always wore googles and a rubber apron. IDK if what he used was carbon load but I recall that it hummed when attached to posts. After that if I suspected a battery was going bad I put it on charge. If it fails to reach 12.6v I take it to retailer for testing. I've never had one fail to reach 12.5 then pass load test. If it reaches 12.5v I leave it sitting overnight without neg cable attached and if voltage falls I replace battery.
Early on I tried running batteries that charged but didn't hold overnight and they always went belly up before long. I never trusted cheap load testers and couldn't justify buying a quality one.
After seeing what a split rim truck wheel did I've not messed with them either since so I might just be a candy butt.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Best digital voltmeters I used in the late 70's had NIXIE tube readouts ($$$$) Made 'line-of-light' voltmeters back then as seven segment LEDs were $$$ ! Analog Devices were nice, $250 a unit, 2VDC basic meter....
Get a 'charger-maintainer-conditioner' style battery charger. They have a 'rejuvenate' button or some fancy name. If battery doesn't perform after that, odds are it's kaput........

Finally sold the forklift that had split rims , last year...AFTER putting $1500 in new rubber on it.

 

[Tractor Gal]

I'm a tool guy and don't mind buying tools that save time and money but I don't feel the need for a load tester. The guy that owned gas station where I worked as a kid on Saturday did lite mechanic work. He blew two batteries up while testing them. He must have expected problems because he always wore googles and a rubber apron. IDK if what he used was carbon load but I recall that it hummed when attached to posts. After that if I suspected a battery was going bad I put it on charge. If it fails to reach 12.6v I take it to retailer for testing. I've never had one fail to reach 12.5 then pass load test. If it reaches 12.5v I leave it sitting overnight without neg cable attached and if voltage falls I replace battery.
Early on I tried running batteries that charged but didn't hold overnight and they always went belly up before long. I never trusted cheap load testers and couldn't justify buying a quality one.
After seeing what a split rim truck wheel did I've not messed with them either since so I might just be a candy butt.

This makes sense, jaxs, especially charge to 12.5v, remove negative cable and check voltage the next morning. Thanks for the thoughts.

TG

 

[Tractor Gal]

Best digital voltmeters I used in the late 70's had NIXIE tube readouts ($$$$) Made 'line-of-light' voltmeters back then as seven segment LEDs were $$$ ! Analog Devices were nice, $250 a unit, 2VDC basic meter....
Get a 'charger-maintainer-conditioner' style battery charger. They have a 'rejuvenate' button or some fancy name. If battery doesn't perform after that, odds are it's kaput........

Finally sold the forklift that had split rims , last year...AFTER putting $1500 in new rubber on it.

A charger-maintainer-conditioner style battery charger is a thought. I need a 6v/12v and finding that has been "iffy." There are some and I have a regular charger but it's not automatic. Too much trouble to monitor! Thanks for the idea.

TG

 

[GreensvilleJay]

you can put two, 6 volt batteries (of the same type/size ) in series and use a 12 volt charger

 

[jaxs]

you can put two, 6 volt batteries (of the same type/size ) in series and use a 12 volt charger

That's a fact and I also indorse Greenjay's recommendation to use a charger-maintainer. . A charger-maintainer pays for itself in extended battery life,not to mention not having to keep watch to prevent overcharge A bit of info about charging two 6 volt batteries with 12v charger. "IF" batteries are identical (which they should be) and one doesn't reach same state of charge as it's mate the battery has one or more weak cells and should be replaced. Weak cell(s) is reason 12v battery fails to reach 12.5 and/or loses charge overnight as mentioned above.

 

[Dustball]

I bought a TOPDON battery tester off Amazon a few years ago and it's been pretty handy for me.

https://amzn.com/dp/B07DDDDSK9

 

[Tractor Gal]

you can put two, 6 volt batteries (of the same type/size ) in series and use a 12 volt charger

You could if you had two 6v batteries! That's not the case here. Actually, with the cost of batteries, I'm doing well to have one! Thanks for trying.

TG

 

[Tractor Gal]

I bought a TOPDON battery tester off Amazon a few years ago and it's been pretty handy for me.

https://amzn.com/dp/B07DDDDSK9

View attachment 121581

I've seen that brand so it's good to know that it works. There are two problems with taking the battery somewhere for a test. It's not convenient...and they make mistakes. So, while I think investing in a costly tester, it may be wise to have something. At least it would be a start when the tractor isn't cooperating to start.

TG

 

[jaxs]

You could if you had two 6v batteries! That's not the case here. Actually, with the cost of batteries, I'm doing well to have one! Thanks for trying.

TG

What do you have with a 6 volt battery?

I've seen that brand so it's good to know that it works. There are two problems with taking the battery somewhere for a test. It's not convenient...and they make mistakes. So, while I think investing in a costly tester, it may be wise to have something. At least it would be a start when the tractor isn't cooperating to start.

TG

If you can't afford both I can tell you with certainty a multimeter is a far better start when the tractor isn't cooperating to start than a load tester. I'd estimate 90% of starting problems raised on OTT are caused by things other than battery.

 

[Tractor Gal]

What do you have with a 6 volt battery?

If you can't afford both I can tell you with certainty a multimeter is a far better start when the tractor isn't cooperating to start than a load tester. I'd estimate 90% of starting problems raised on OTT are caused by things other than battery.

I have a Ford 2N that is still 6V. Changing to a 12v never made sense to me so it has remained 6v. This is a wonderful tractor...been in the family for years...and still is like a Timex...takes a lickin' but keeps on tickin'. I use it for some tasks and it is great. There is no loader or backhoe so that was the lure of the used Kubota. I'm actually happy to have both!

The idea of a load tester resonates with me because of a recent experience. Tractor wouldn't start. It had a full charge...according to my multimeter. I went through the whole gamut of troubleshooting...check connections, clean terminals, etc. I finally took the battery to be tested and was told it was good. Apparently, that person did not know how to load test. After additional headaches, I had a second load test and learned that the battery was bad after all. A new battery solved the problem. If I had had a load tester, I may have been able to forego some of the aggravation. Then again...maybe not!

TG

 

[fried1765]

When my old 6v battery was tested as good at Batteries Plus but it really wasn't good, I had thought about getting a load tester. The thought never went to action. Reading this thread has renewed my interest. In looking on ebay, there are TONS of these things...cheap. That gives me pause. Cheap stuff is rarely good and, believe me, I've bought plenty! So fried1865 references a "$30 carbon pile battery load tester." What in the world is that and how to find one.

Tractor Gal

PS Just went back to ebay and entered carbon pile load tester. Voile, there they are! Thanks for answering my own question! Maybe it will help someone else.

Being an aged "tool-a-holic", I actually have a 500 amp. carbon pile load tester, but for most auto/tractor size batteries, a cheap 100A tester should be adequate.
Carbon pile load testers ARE old school, but they are simple, they work, and they are cheap.
A 500A carbon pile tester costs less than $70.
Most auto supply stores have the 100A units, and will load test your batteries for free.

 

[jaxs]

I hear what you are saying about the 2N,they don't makeum like that anymore. I have an 800 the family traded a 600 for they traded a 9n for. My 800 was originally 6 volt but I've used 12 volt batteries on it for over 20 years. It still has original 6v generator that isn;t connected. I added 12v coil but lights and starter work fine. I don't smoke but added a lighter plug to facilitate connecting tender charger while sitting in barn. I've used it for days a few times without recharging because I was working in remote areas. 6 volt batteries are hard to find and expensive.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I found it cheaper to 'soft-convert' all my 6 volt tractors to 12 volt. I used CS130 alternators($20 or free...) Big bonuses are everything is negative ground for easy jumping if needed, cheap LEDS for lights, addon 12V winches.