Maybe a dumb question

Blue76

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Considering a ditch / bank flail mower. However I only have one rear remote. It is possible to control both cylinders with some type of secondary shuttle valve or something else I am not aware of?
Greg
 

McMXi

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Considering a ditch / bank flail mower. However I only have one rear remote. It is possible to control both cylinders with some type of secondary shuttle valve or something else I am not aware of?
Greg
Yes, the "elegant" way would be to add a Summit Hydraulics multiplier connected to your current rear remotes, and control oil flow via a switch box, momentary switch or Scorpion control grip like I did. You could also use some form of diverter but that's not an elegant solution in my world. The last option of course is to add another set of rear remotes.

Ultimately it comes down to what you can live with and how much you want to spend.
 
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Blue76

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Yes, the "elegant" way would be to add a Summit Hydraulics multiplier connected to your current rear remotes, and control oil flow via a switch box, momentary switch or Scorpion control grip like I did. You could also use some form of diverter but that's not an elegant solution in my world. The last option of course is to add another set of rear remotes.

Ultimately it comes down to what you can live with and how much you want to spend.
thanks. Maybe an even dumber question. Is it possible to use the third function as a second remote? For example. Use the rear remote for offset on a ditch bank flail and third function for tilt?

Greg
 

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thanks. Maybe an even dumber question. Is it possible to use the third function as a second remote? For example. Use the rear remote for offset on a ditch bank flail and third function for tilt?

Greg
Yes, you could run hoses from the 3rd function couplers rearwards and connect to a pair of lines on the flail. There's nothing special about the 3rd function. Just another way to provide oil flow in two directions. Not my idea of an elegant solution but it's a solution.
 

Blue76

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The more I researched the summit diverter the more I like that idea. Typically not a cheapo but I am trying to find a way to a bank down the side of my driveway which will happen maybe 3 or 4 time per year. Hard to justify spending $5 grand for a mower and second rear remote.
 

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The more I researched the summit diverter the more I like that idea. Typically not a cheapo but I am trying to find a way to a bank down the side of my driveway which will happen maybe 3 or 4 time per year. Hard to justify spending $5 grand for a mower and second rear remote.
You can add a real valve for the price of the diverter.
 

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The more I researched the summit diverter the more I like that idea. Typically not a cheapo but I am trying to find a way to a bank down the side of my driveway which will happen maybe 3 or 4 time per year. Hard to justify spending $5 grand for a mower and second rear remote.
I run three sets of factory rear remotes on both tractors and have added a 3X multiplier/diverter to the MX and a 4X multiplier/diverter to the M6060 and they work well for my needs. This gives me five pairs of remotes on the MX (I need four) and six pairs of remotes on the M6060 (I need all six).

If you only have one set of rear remotes, adding a 3X multiplier/diverter that runs off those remotes with all three pairs being controlled by one lever can be a cost effective solution, but you might as well go to a 4X for about the same price which will certainly be cheaper than upgrading to two more factory pairs and give you even more options.
 

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Considering a ditch / bank flail mower. However I only have one rear remote. It is possible to control both cylinders with some type of secondary shuttle valve or something else I am not aware of?
Greg
If your considering a ditch bank mower you need to keep it really small for either of the tractors you've listed that you have.
They become unruly really quick.
 
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Blue76

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If your considering a ditch bank mower you need to keep it really small for either of the tractors you've listed that you have.
They become unruly really quick.
I have seen that in some videos. I run a 6' disc mower off the L3600 for more than a decade cutting hay with no issues. It stayed fixed in the extended position. Just raised up and down. Surely, a 48 to 55" wouldn't be much worse than that would it. I really don't want to buy one. I could think of a lot of better things to buy with that money, but I need some way to keep that bank area cleared besides a string trimmer. At 62 the string trimmer is my enemy .
 

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I came up with $550 for the diverter and $1500 for the second valve installed.
$100 will buy a Summit valve to augment your OEM remote. Couplers, hoses, and fittings to connect aftermarket valve another $300.

$250 will buy an additional OEM remote valve plus $65 for the OEM handle. Couplers, hoses, and fittings, to connect the OEM valve to the rear panel another $150.

You can easily do either install yourself.

Dan
 
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I came up with $550 for the diverter and $1500 for the second valve installed.
Since you already have one set of rear remotes, you could install a 2X multiplier from Summit Hydraulics for $550 to give you two sets. You'd just need to have a pair of hoses made up to connect your current remotes to the multiplier which will run around $80 or so.


Personally, I would opt for a 3X in your situation which is $770. The cost of the hoses to connect it to your current remotes would be the same, and you'd have three pairs of rear remotes.


If you wanted to improve ergonomics at a later date you could add a Scorpion controller with momentary buttons that would enable you to operate up to three cylinders off the one lever in the cab/operator's platform. I did that for both tractors and it's pretty slick. Thanks again to @MtnViewRanch for pushing me in that direction.
 

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@Blue76, I've been running a ditch bank 62" flail mower on my MX for four seasons now. I have to say, running the cutting head rotation (angle) and cutting head offset via two momentary buttons on the same lever in the cab is a huge improvement over how I used to run the flail. It's way easier and more ergonomic. I did add flow restrictors from @Kennyd4110 but plan on drilling out the orifices to the next size up, and keep opening up the hole until I like how the flail reacts. It's ok at present but a bit slow and the pump seems noisy.

I have the other two factory rear remotes connected to the top-n-tilt cylinders. There's never a need to adjust more than one cylinder at the same time even though it's possible. The Scorpion control grip shown below has a trigger on the front to control the third pair of remotes on the Summit Hydraulics multiplier/diverter but I'm using the top button for head rotation and the bottom button for offset.

This winter I'll control snow blower chute rotation and deflector angle via the two buttons on the control grip.

13.jpg
 

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Since you already have one set of rear remotes, you could install a 2X multiplier from Summit Hydraulics for $550 to give you two sets. You'd just need to have a pair of hoses made up to connect your current remotes to the multiplier which will run around $80 or so.


Personally, I would opt for a 3X in your situation which is $770. The cost of the hoses to connect it to your current remotes would be the same, and you'd have three pairs of rear remotes.


If you wanted to improve ergonomics at a later date you could add a Scorpion controller with momentary buttons that would enable you to operate up to three cylinders off the one lever in the cab/operator's platform. I did that for both tractors and it's pretty slick. Thanks again to @MtnViewRanch for pushing me in that direction.
This is a standard L with stripped down features.

The OEM valves are $250 each, $65 each for the handles, and $80 for the overpriced studs. Grand total of $710 and simply bolts up. The couplers and hoses are off the shelf items.

Dan
 

Blue76

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$100 will buy a Summit valve to augment your OEM remote. Couplers, hoses, and fittings to connect aftermarket valve another $300.

$250 will buy an additional OEM remote valve plus $65 for the OEM handle. Couplers, hoses, and fittings, to connect the OEM valve to the rear panel another $150.

You can easily do either install yourself.

Dan
Dang... I called two dealers and both told me $1000 in parts and $500 installed. I am sure I could install it. The $1000 threw me off. Maybe I am asking for the wrong parts at the dealer? I simply said I wanted to add a second remote to my L2501.
 
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Blue76

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Oh ... so not a fancy L3600 with cab! 😂😂 Come on! How cool is this tractor?

View attachment 156676
I used to wish for a cab on my L3600 back in the hay field days... Tractor still runs good but pretty much everything else is worn out. It is relegated to bush hog duty most of the time.

I would mow, Ted and rake with the 3600 and my father in law would show up with a Ford 9600 with a cab and roll it. He was riding in luxury compared to me.
 
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McMXi

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Dang... I called two dealers and both told me $1000 in parts and $500 installed. I am sure I could install it. The $1000 threw me off. Maybe I am asking for the wrong parts at the dealer? I simply said I wanted to add a second remote to my L2501.
These prices are for the L2502 but probably the same for the L2501. Buying through sales rather than parts is a lot cheaper, but Kubota sure is proud of their add-ons. The labor charge is fairly typical too. That's why I suggested a Summit Hydraulics 3X multiplier since you already have one pair of factory remotes, but Dan has another option for you, and options are good.


l2502_remotes.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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Dang... I called two dealers and both told me $1000 in parts and $500 installed. I am sure I could install it. The $1000 threw me off. Maybe I am asking for the wrong parts at the dealer? I simply said I wanted to add a second remote to my L2501.
The valve is $250. The full stacking kit with valve handle, studs, hoses and couplers is $450. So $700 in parts total and that includes all hoses and fittings and probably a better choice than trying to go ala carte using off the shelf bits to save a few bucks.

Installation is not hard but its a little cramped working in that area.

One word of caution. Kubota used at least two different valve stacks. The prices I am quoting is for the current version where the hoses for the outlets connect to the underside of the stack. The older version had the hoses on the top side and is probably hard if not imposdible to get.

Dan
 

Blue76

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The valve is $250. The full stacking kit with valve handle, studs, hoses and couplers is $450. So $700 in parts total and that includes all hoses and fittings and probably a better choice than trying to go ala carte using off the shelf bits to save a few bucks.

Installation is not hard but its a little cramped working in that area.

One word of caution. Kubota used at least two different valve stacks. The prices I am quoting is for the current version where the hoses for the outlets connect to the underside of the stack. The older version had the hoses on the top side and is probably hard if not imposdible to get.

Dan
Is there an installation manual or video somewhere? What type valve do I need? Not sure a fully understand the options and how it impacts how I want to use it.
Greg